Saw in a flyer today that Clair Mazda in Saco, ME is advertising a new '04 6s sedan with no options for around $17,400 (can't find the flyer now!). I stopped by and they only had one in stock - white - but were willing to help me find another color elsewhere.
If only they'd promote the 5-door this strongly...
Ok, I'm really confused. On edmunds, and a couple of other websites, it says that there's a $1500 rebate available for the mz6. But on most webpages I looked at, they do not list the rebate, only the special APR. Also, do you have to qualify for the special APR to get the rebate??? Because I'm sure I don't qualify for the APR. However, if I'm only able to get 11% interest from roadloans, will Mazda give me, say, 5-7%, or would it be 11%?
Hi all, i need a little help. I plan on buying a 2004 6s Sedan before the end of the month (I want the $1,500 rebate). I want to buy it online, but I don't know how low i should go for the asking price. I want:
Auto Sports W/spoiler Moonroof Bose SAB/SAC
Edmunds' TMV is about 23900. Should i ask for lower than that? Thanks for the help.
I would use the quote service available here at the Edmunds TMV. It will automatically submit your request to several local dealers. When they respond, ask for their best out the door price (all taxes and fees included). I did that last week and received one quote that was pretty much the same as the TMV price.
You can always counter with a lower offer. My guess is, with the end of the month coming and all the Memorial Day promotions, you should be able to nail this car for close to invoice, minus the rebate (or, more simply, for about $1,500 under invoice).
By coincidence, you seem to be interested in almost the exact same car I am. I'm debating between the hatch and the sedan. I'm also not sure about the Bose, although that seems to be mandatory if you want a moonroof and side curtains with the sedan.
I'm wondering if we're going to see the cash incentive on the wagon soon. I actually had one on deposit, until I learned of the incentives on the sedans but not the wagons. I asked the saleperson for an equivalent discount. But they didn't want to play, wouldn't even counter my offer. So I pulled the plug. I'm hoping to see new incentives on the wagons 6/1 or 7/1. Any idea what the chances are of that happening?
What was the other $1607 for? Is the sales tax in KY really that high or did they just add on enough fees and extra charges to get the price back up to MSRP?
I just bought a lapis blue 6s 5-door MTX loaded yesterday (san francisco bay area). Options are: Luxury pkg, SAB, Bose, Moonroof. Invoice = $24546, TMV=$25282. My sale price was invoice+$50. Add in $1500 customer cash and $500 college grad rebate, OTD was $250xx, I was extremely happy with my haggling results The car will be transported from another dealer. Now all this waiting is starting to get on my nerves...
(BTW, make sure to ask about what the "documents and fees" break down to... turns out there is one optional protection item they added in there for over $200 that's pretty useless, so I took that off)
I just picked up my Mazda 6s, V6 auto, sport package with spoiler, and Bose audio. I did all the shopping online and got a quotes for from four dealers. The range of quotes was $1000 and the lowest was $600 less than all the others.
There is a $1,500 rebate to customers from Mazda which you should have been made aware of since you usually have to sign a paper releasing that money to the dealer if you don't take the rebate in cash. The balance probably came out of holdback.
Sorry, I forgot that many of these deals are regional, Rich.
It's $1,500 customer cash down here in sunny (and broiling hot!) Orlando. I've been trying to find an i sedan with the security package and a sunroof only , and it's next to impossible.
By the way, what documentation does Mazda require to get the $500 graduate discount? A transcript?
Thanx for the offer Rich. Actually I have a dealer nearby working on it. Apparently there aren't many copies around with the side curtains yet, and that seems to be the stumbling block.
There was also a $444 charge printed onto the bill for "Delivery Fee" that I had them remove. Not the one charged by Mazda, an additional one. It was footnoted and it said, "This charge is for additional profit." They put up a bit of a fight but removed it.
The long story goes like this...
I spoke to someone in the internet department on Friday who said $300 over invoice. I told them that I could get it for invoice elsewhere. He said, "Fine, we'll do it for invoice, $25,131." He messed up his math. I show up at the dealer and talked to a different guy (they are a team). No problem, sign the papers for 25,131 then I have to wait till monday for the car.
The next morning, Saturday, I get an e-mail quote for something like an additional $900 less than that. I knew that something wasn't right there. They didn't even have the car.
Now I'm trying to figure out what I should do...if it was 1-200 I wouldn't have done anything. but 900???
I re-read what I signed. Even though I signed the papers there was a clause that said something like, "If you agree to finance through us, then this contract is not valid until you see the terms of financing. If you don't agree to them you may back out of the deal and get your deposit back." I hadn't seen the terms of financing yet. So, even though I signed and put money down, I had an out.
I call my dealer back to tell him about the new quote. He's pissed. Yells. Profanity. Not happy. Says we have a contract. I point out the clause. He says they'll take me to court. I say that's fine. He says fine $450 more off. I said no, $600 off (I didn't want to lose him completely since I didn't really know about the other place). He said fine. Picked up the car on Monday and the guy was cool with it. He said he understood and it was just business.
Got an e-mail yesterday from the place that gave me the crazy-low bid. They said they couldn't locate me that car for that price but they would love to sell me something else.
I come back to the same question....why would the dealer lose money to sell you a car? Unless you have a video of the dealership owner in a compromising position, there is no reason to sell you a car to lose money.
Anybody have any info regarding the lease cash that's mentioned in the incentives section for the 6? It says $2500 for sedans and $1500 for the hatch. How does this work?
I did have a trade, but that is not included in the price above. The amount that I got for my trade-in was in the range of what was predicted on the Trade-in message board...i forget the name of the board, but sitll on Edmunds.
No video. Not sure why they did it. What kind of volume bonus do they get from Mazda?
N.KY has a big, multi-dealer, Memorial weekend tent sale and because of lousy weather, there is a big incentive to move some cars. Just negotiated a deal for an '04 Mazda6 sedan and should be able to pick up the car by no later than Wednesday. Pertinent details:
Lapis Blue w/ black leather luxury Pkg (1LX) 6 Cyl. w/ 5 spd auto (AT2) Sport Pkg w/ rear spoiler (1SE)
I did a fair amount of research and was well prepared to negotiate or walk away. I felt I made a fair offer and I held my ground while they "played their little games". As this car was for my daughter, she might have been a bit peeved, had I come home empty handed, but I was pretty sure they wanted to sell a car worse than I wanted to buy one. In the end, they accepted my offer and I know they made money, so it was a good deal for both parties.
When buying the 6, the dealer offered me an extended warranty increasing the standard 4 yr/ 50,000 mi bumper to bumper warranty to 6 yr/ 85,000 mi. I bought it but am not certain it was a wise purchase. I can cancel in the first 60 days and get my money back. What are the opinions out there about extended warranties?
let me give you my thoughts on the extended warranty...
the first thing is to make sure the warranty is backed by a major auto manufacturer...like mazda or ford, etc.....aftermarket warranties are notorious for rejecting claims and going bankrupt when you need them.
now, do you need it?.....do you plan on keeping the car beyond the 4yr/50K warranty? if not, you dont need it. But, if your going to keep the car....can you afford to pay for a major repair without being hurt financially? If you can afford to write a check for $1500 at anytime, then you may not need the warranty...but if that kind of expense would put you in a bind, then the warranty may be a good idea.....
It's not a Mazda extended warranty. It from a company called Universal Warranty. I'm seeing that I can get an after market from companies like Warranty Direct and 1SourceAutoWarranty for significantly less. The above 2 companies appear to be highly rated and don't include the dealer markup I'm sure I paid for the one I have. Any more thoughts out there before I ask for my refund on the one I bought at the dealer? I have 60 days to cancel.
I would get a refund on the one you got. Then if you keep the car for a long time, buy the Mazda extended warranty. I think you can buy it any time up until the original 4/50 warranty expires, you can get it from any Mazda dealer, and the price is negotiable.
I don't have much more insight to offer, but I can say that I agree.
I've heard that you can buy the extended warranty anytime within the original warranty, so there is no reason to buy it now. Keep the car for three years. Make sure you plan on keeping it longer. No sense in buying a warranty you might just give to someone else.
Ordered April 7, delivered June 14th. Glacier silver, gray leather, ALL pkgs less rails & racks. MSRP 27890- my price 22761 (e-plan) OTD 24592. Great car, handles like a dream, snappy!
Yes audi8q, somewhat correct. Ol retired buck running dealer trades for GM-Mazda store (5 years). Would have preferred the 3 but needed the extra cargo space. Both great cars and GM has nothing to compare. Enjoy your ride all 6 owners.
..... for a 2004 6i w/auto, sport grille (MSRP = $20,440), OTD = $20,000 (including all fees, taxes, etc.). I traded in a 2003 Dodge Ram (gas guzzler). I knew before I went in that I was upside down about $2500 to $2800 (per Kelley Blue Book online, and every dealer I talked to gave me the same trade-in). I wanted something more fun to drive and didn't need a truck anymore. If you take out the negative equity I had, it was no more than about $17,500 total out-the-door. I think I did pretty good, love the car!
Used Mazda S-Plan to buy 2004 6s wagon with 5-speed 0n 6/4/04. Only option was LEV emissions. No negotiation; purchase request and pricing done via e-mail with dealer. Location = So. California.
Sales Tax @ 8.25% on $21283 = $1755.85 DMV Registration @ 0.9%= $192 California Tire (Recycling) Fee = $5
TOTAL = $23235.85 Rebate = -$1500
OUT THE DOOR PRICE = $21735.85
Fairly happy so far though the stock Michelins are overpriced. Ate a bolt and needed to buy a new tire. Cheapest = $176 plus shipping thru online dealer.
Does anyone know where to get the $250 coupons? Are they null and void now? I have a 6 wagon that's due to hit the dealer sometime next week that I have a deposit down on and wouldn't mind saving some lettuce.
And while I'm on the subject, they offered me the loaded wagon at $24,767 (that's with the $1500 rebate). I have found out that this is $550 over invoice. Any suggestions as to what a fair price would be? And what BS fees should I be on the lookout for?
Comments
If only they'd promote the 5-door this strongly...
Auto
Sports W/spoiler
Moonroof
Bose
SAB/SAC
Edmunds' TMV is about 23900. Should i ask for lower than that? Thanks for the help.
John
You can always counter with a lower offer. My guess is, with the end of the month coming and all the Memorial Day promotions, you should be able to nail this car for close to invoice, minus the rebate (or, more simply, for about $1,500 under invoice).
By coincidence, you seem to be interested in almost the exact same car I am. I'm debating between the hatch and the sedan. I'm also not sure about the Bose, although that seems to be mandatory if you want a moonroof and side curtains with the sedan.
Options:
Security Pkg.
Bose Pkg.
Moonroof
Invoice: $21,527
Edmunds TMV: $20,727 (includes rebate)
Purchase Price: $20,200 (includes rebate)
OTD: $21,807
Bank financing.
I'm wondering if we're going to see the cash incentive on the wagon soon. I actually had one on deposit, until I learned of the incentives on the sedans but not the wagons. I asked the saleperson for an equivalent discount. But they didn't want to play, wouldn't even counter my offer. So I pulled the plug. I'm hoping to see new incentives on the wagons 6/1 or 7/1. Any idea what the chances are of that happening?
$395 in license and other fees.
(BTW, make sure to ask about what the "documents and fees" break down to... turns out there is one optional protection item they added in there for over $200 that's pretty useless, so I took that off)
I just picked up my Mazda 6s, V6 auto, sport package with spoiler, and Bose audio. I did all the shopping online and got a quotes for from four dealers. The range of quotes was $1000 and the lowest was $600 less than all the others.
MSRP: 24170 (includes freight)
Invoice: 22278
Edmunds TMV: 22795
My price: 20311
I'm not complaining but how did the dealer make any money?
It's $1,500 customer cash down here in sunny (and broiling hot!) Orlando. I've been trying to find an i sedan with the security package and a sunroof only , and it's next to impossible.
By the way, what documentation does Mazda require to get the $500 graduate discount? A transcript?
post what your looking for (stick/auto,color, etc) and I will look on the dealer locater and see if what you want is even available in your area....
Automatic
Luxory
Bose
Sunroof
SAB/SAC
ULEV
MSRP - 27,740
Edmunds Invoice - 25,161 (true dealer invoice tacks on $250 for advertising bringing this to 25,411)
Edmunds TMV - 25,818
My Price - 24,531
minus 1,500 dealer cash
minus 250 Rev It Up coupon
Total - 22,781
your telling us that you purchased this car at $880 behind dealer cost?
why would a dealer lose $880 to sell you a car?
something does not add up.
There was also a $444 charge printed onto the bill for "Delivery Fee" that I had them remove. Not the one charged by Mazda, an additional one. It was footnoted and it said, "This charge is for additional profit." They put up a bit of a fight but removed it.
The long story goes like this...
I spoke to someone in the internet department on Friday who said $300 over invoice. I told them that I could get it for invoice elsewhere. He said, "Fine, we'll do it for invoice, $25,131." He messed up his math. I show up at the dealer and talked to a different guy (they are a team). No problem, sign the papers for 25,131 then I have to wait till monday for the car.
The next morning, Saturday, I get an e-mail quote for something like an additional $900 less than that. I knew that something wasn't right there. They didn't even have the car.
Now I'm trying to figure out what I should do...if it was 1-200 I wouldn't have done anything. but 900???
I re-read what I signed. Even though I signed the papers there was a clause that said something like, "If you agree to finance through us, then this contract is not valid until you see the terms of financing. If you don't agree to them you may back out of the deal and get your deposit back." I hadn't seen the terms of financing yet. So, even though I signed and put money down, I had an out.
I call my dealer back to tell him about the new quote. He's pissed. Yells. Profanity. Not happy. Says we have a contract. I point out the clause. He says they'll take me to court. I say that's fine. He says fine $450 more off. I said no, $600 off (I didn't want to lose him completely since I didn't really know about the other place). He said fine. Picked up the car on Monday and the guy was cool with it. He said he understood and it was just business.
Got an e-mail yesterday from the place that gave me the crazy-low bid. They said they couldn't locate me that car for that price but they would love to sell me something else.
I think I did pretty good.
Automatic
Luxory
Bose
Sunroof
SAB/SAC
ULEV
MSRP - 27,740
Edmunds Invoice - 25,161 (true dealer invoice tacks on $250 for advertising bringing this to 25,411)
Edmunds TMV - 25,818
My Price - 24,531
minus 1,500 dealer cash
minus 250 Rev It Up coupon
Total - 22,781
I come back to the same question....why would the dealer lose money to sell you a car? Unless you have a video of the dealership owner in a compromising position, there is no reason to sell you a car to lose money.
No video.
Not sure why they did it. What kind of volume bonus do they get from Mazda?
6i w/ 16" Alloy Wheels, Auto and dealer installed leather: $18,110
Tax: $1,131.88
Misc. Fees: $220.19
6 yr/ 75k mile Ext Warranty: $567.00
Total: 20,029.07
This price includes the $1500 rebate and a $500 college grad rebate. I think I did pretty good.
6i w/ 16" Alloy Wheels, Auto and dealer installed leather: $18,110
Tax: $1,131.88
Misc. Fees: $220.19
6 yr/ 75k mile Ext Warranty: $567.00
Total: 20,029.07
This price includes the $1500 rebate and a $500 college grad rebate. I think I did pretty good.
Lapis Blue w/ black leather luxury Pkg (1LX)
6 Cyl. w/ 5 spd auto (AT2)
Sport Pkg w/ rear spoiler (1SE)
MSRP $25,255
TMV $23,666
REBATE $ 1,500
OFFERED $22,000 + TTL
I did a fair amount of research and was well prepared to negotiate or walk away. I felt I made a fair offer and I held my ground while they "played their little games". As this car was for my daughter, she might have been a bit peeved, had I come home empty handed, but I was pretty sure they wanted to sell a car worse than I wanted to buy one. In the end, they accepted my offer and I know they made money, so it was a good deal for both parties.
the first thing is to make sure the warranty is backed by a major auto manufacturer...like mazda or ford, etc.....aftermarket warranties are notorious for rejecting claims and going bankrupt when you need them.
now, do you need it?.....do you plan on keeping the car beyond the 4yr/50K warranty? if not, you dont need it. But, if your going to keep the car....can you afford to pay for a major repair without being hurt financially? If you can afford to write a check for $1500 at anytime, then you may not need the warranty...but if that kind of expense would put you in a bind, then the warranty may be a good idea.....
I've heard that you can buy the extended warranty anytime within the original warranty, so there is no reason to buy it now. Keep the car for three years. Make sure you plan on keeping it longer. No sense in buying a warranty you might just give to someone else.
MSRP = $22325 + $520 shipping = $22845
S-Plan Price = $21238
Document Fees = $45
[Taxable Subtotal = $21283]
Sales Tax @ 8.25% on $21283 = $1755.85
DMV Registration @ 0.9%= $192
California Tire (Recycling) Fee = $5
TOTAL = $23235.85
Rebate = -$1500
OUT THE DOOR PRICE = $21735.85
Fairly happy so far though the stock Michelins are overpriced. Ate a bolt and needed to buy a new tire. Cheapest = $176 plus shipping thru online dealer.
And while I'm on the subject, they offered me the loaded wagon at $24,767 (that's with the $1500 rebate). I have found out that this is $550 over invoice. Any suggestions as to what a fair price would be? And what BS fees should I be on the lookout for?