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Took car to Nissan dealer who said "no engine codes". Claimed it was the fan belts. Replaced the fan belts. Called to say that all engine fluids needed replacement. Replaced everything. Charged me $1005.
My son picked the car up and it was sounding almost the same as when it went in when he brought it home. I waited 3 days before I could not stand it anymore. Car felt like a 15 year old car. I had a J30 with the same engine which my son now drives and it feels much better. Took it back to the dealer who test drove it and said it was now 3 years old and I should expect it to start sounding rough.
Is this what a 3 year old Murano should feel like. I have read all of the posts and have not seen anybody with teh same symptoms. I have read the TPS but it has different symptoms. Anybody got any suggestions,
Thanks.
In spite of a slightly nervous ride over rough patches in the road, it is otherwise a delightfully smooth and quiet vehicle. Edmunds seems to hate the CVT but I find it smooth "as butta" and perfectly responsive.
I'm a little concerned that the salesman/dealer stressed I keep to the 3 month oil changes. Is Nissan having engine sludge issues? I had a 2000 Toyota and remember well the commotion. (Never quite sure how that turned out, whether there was truth to it or not, and didn't keep the car long enough for it to matter.) A few years ago Consumer Reports did a report on vehicle oil changes and suggested 3k/3mo oil changes were wasteful and unnecessary.
Love the car and plan to stick to the book, but just wondering why I got 3 reminders from the salesman to keep the oil changed.
Perhaps it's just a courtesy and he keeps forgetting he already told you?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Turning noise: a thought..sometimes on a hard tight turn an inside edge, usually rear, of tire, rubs against wheelwell housing. Have it with 01 Pathfinder because I put slightly larger tires on it, but can also happen with MO if underinflated and car is loaded. Just a thought...
Rough idling: no excuses...engines should be smooth and quiet. Try adding fuel-injector cleaner to tank when it is just 1/2 full. Also, for that one half tank, go with the highest octane. If that solves it, add the injector cleaner at EVERY oil change and use the lower octane..which at 500 feet, is, definitely, not as smooth, at least for mine. Oil Change: 3,500 to 4,000 with new filter is probably adequate for city or towing. Cheapest way to avoid expensive engine fixes. I have used Oil Can Henry, Jiffy Lube and Lube Express as well as dealer at 5K, 15K and 25K and have never had a problem. Caveat: before you drive away, check the dip stick to be sure they remembered to add oil. That little detail can ruin your day. I have been there with a Chevy dealer.
CVT: they work, are smooth and are becoming common transmissions for Nissan as well as other major brands. NEVER EVER let anyone "add" regular Automatic Trans Fluid to your Murano. It needs special Nissan CVT stuff at your dealer (every 30K).
Tire rotation: 7,500 is a good number. This service is really necessary, as the front tires will wear faster, since they are the basic pulling power for MO. Tire stores charge nothing or very little, as they value you as a future customer. Once you purchase tires there, all rotations should be free. Balancing every 7.5 is not necessary at rotation, unless you have steering wheel vibrations. Balance and alignment if free, is great; otherwise do it when you buy new tires.
Thanks to all who contribute to info on this site..it saved me on the TPS back in 2005, and helped get the famous tank shield which was a fun experience in corporate politics, and I got the metal version. All in all, MO is a neat vehicle...complicated and smarter than most of the dealers who "fix" it...or try to. John B...Twain Harte, CA
this post is to warn everyone that they purchase the factory warranty at their own risk.
today, i brought in my 03 murano w/ 36,000miles since the brakepedal no longer went back and forth (up and down). just the accel works.
i have a nissan 10 year 70,000 plus gold zero deductible plan which clearly covers this component.
dealer says the repair not covered per plugging in the part number. you can look at another thread on this board, apparantely this is not an abberation or an isolated event.
the repair however is clearly covered. a call to nissan elicited that even if the part is not mentioned in as an excluded repair, it can still be excluded. this is scary stuff since in the end, if nissan doesn't want to cover the repair, you are stuck. since in my state a service contract is governed by strict laws, will refer this problem to the appropriate agency and also to the attorney general's office.
it will be repaired.
but beware, nissan is not honorable.
It does not follow that every component is covered just because it is "zero deductible." What, exactly, does the warranty document say?
To me, it sounds like a fairly minor repair. What is their proposed remedy?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
i found out that this is not an isolated incident. sometimes going to another dealer remedies the denial. right now, i don't have time to test that theory. also, why should the outcome be different. that alone makes one suspecisous.
i spoke with our state's regulators today and what i was told is that often, excuses are made for non coverage.
it is either a purposeful attempt to avoid paying claims or a miserable example of how computer systems, even if mistaken are relied upon.
sadly, i belive it is the former since when i spoke with a nissan rep yesterday who should have been in a position to make a decison on this coverage, i was told, even if not excluded, it can be excluded. my call to that person was the opportunity to make it right. nissan is not honorable.
just for refernce over the last 10 years, i have had two other extended service contracts on two other cars, neither with the manufacturer. in both cases, claims were paid when appropriate. only one claim was initially denied, and when it was pointed out that it was a brake repair on a sunday and that the warranty company was closed, they paid that too.
hope that helps.
I had kept going to the dealer as I have the warranty coverage and while I had more faith in my local mechanic, I couldn't really afford to pay to pay out of pocket for any parts.
Best of luck and try the stablizer bar.
Nissan seem to employee a fleet of apprentices who hook up to the diagnostic machine and if there is no codes they cannot fix anything. I just need to know what it might be so I can get somebody to fix it. I know it is not the 36,000 km on the engine as I have a J30 with the same engine that my son now drives and it feels much smoother and refined than the Murano does.
I thought that it might be timing or something but I am not a mechanic and would love to know if somebody had a similar problem and if they were able to get it fixed
But the best, the check engine light has been coming on and off intermittently for the last months, they checked it out, and apparently my car needs a new catalytic converter!! And they come in at around $1400 I believe?!
Anybody else needed this replaced? The guy at the dealer said it might go if you don't put premium gas in. Which, a. is the first I've ever heard about that potential problem, and b. is irrelevant in my case because i've had the car since new and only 2 or 3 times have I ever not put premium gas in.
I'm growing weary of the large repair bills for this car. Ok, I know i've put a lot of miles on it (93k in 2 1/2 yrs), but still. I think it may be time to get rid soon, which is a shame, I love driving it, and when it doesnt have any of these niggling problems, it still drives like a dream.
-TCM replaced
-Nav unit replaced
-Radio unit replaced. Twice.
-Alternator replaced
-Fuses issue
-Rattle from undercarriage
-Transfer case replaced
-Bearings x2
-Catalytic converter
Im sure im missing others, but u get the jist! lol
Since posting, I have web-visited, in person visited: Toyo, Dunlop, Goodyear (original equipment...which for me gave the 29K...at best), Big O Tire store, Cooper (love them on my Pathfinder), Michelin, Pirelli, TireRack.com. and Wal*Mart.
No 235/65/65R18 exists in Cooper (too bad) a great tire.
Toyo: reviews were very unfavorable for ride, mileage
Dunlop: reviews were good "Grandtrek SJ5 Ice and Snow"
at $182 Tread not overly aggressive, but could be
noisy just looking at it.
Pirelli: Scorpion Ice and Snow: had reviews from "hate
it" to "love it." $148 Again, tread not overly
aggressive but the variations in reviews (TireRack.com)
were very confusing.
Goodyear: some have posted long mileage on this site for
the OEM Goodyears, but my experience has been poor;
but when new, they were great in snow and handled well
And I gauge-tested them routinely and ran 35PSI.
Michelin: surfaces as the best tire out there. It comes
with raised white letters or plain black. Mileage
reviews were excellent, as were snow, handling and
low noise. Roughly an expensive $180 plus mount,
balance and I would imagine, (for all brands)extra
for the TPMS (tire pressure monitor system) if
you have one. Not cheap, but I bet I can push 40K.
So, I am going with Michelin for replacement, although WalMart will sell the Goodyears for about $135. I must tell you, my local WM has failed to be able to balance myself and three other friend's new tires purchased there in the past, so I'd rather not go there.
For those of you who had good experience with GY, do it again. I just can't see smooth tires at 27K and drive around trying to get another 2,000....cause if it snows again, the MO will become a sled.
Anybody else, who can find a good brand with reviews, we'd all appreciate comments. Unfortunately, this size is tough to get, and as a previous post noted, changing sizes is not cool. Thanks..JB
For those of you: read posts 1425, 1427, 1584 on this topic.
Again, the part exists: A 7285-CC25A "Protector Fuel"
That was on my invoice. Don't let anyone tell you it does not exist.
I share your frustration, Timbo. The plastic is a disaster waiting to happen, and frankly, not worth hanging down.
Now we already have one case in which the Shield broke up and a piece of it punctured the tank...really nice.
working during limited icing. By this I mean they could not fully
retract into the wells and there were chunks of ice on the arms, but
they were moving (not stuck) when they stopped. The next morning they
were OK.
I assume some sort of thermal overload? I need a *very complete*
explanation on how to prevent this in the future, and what happened
to begin with. The precip lightened up and I was able to get home
but just barely. (It was dark.)
If thermal overload, why did it take until the next morning to
reset????? And what could I have done at the time (if anything) to
facilitate the resetting?? (I did get out and clear all the ice to no
avail. Also shut the car down and restarted.)
Help much appreciated.
Frank
there is something specific that trips the breaker. Any Murano experts out there?
By the way, anyone know of any service bulletins on this?