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I'm still seething about the fact that my dealership REFUSED to give me two proprietary codes for the "Service Engine Soon" light warning unless I paid them a $125. "diagnostic" fee. I e-mailed corporate three times about this since this has been an ongoing problem - and whatever electrical issue is causing this has shorted out my alternator four times! Not even an "I am sorry you are having a problem." Just, "Our dealerships can set their own fees for things like this." Well, set this, Nissan. This chick will NEVER darken the doorstep of a Nissan dealership EVER again! And will badmouth you to anyone who will listen! Should have given the car back under the Lemon Law when it happened the second time...
CJ
This is a precursor to a CVT on the way out. Sell the car unless it is under warranty.
It is not worth the trouble you will go through.
That may be an additional problem or it may be causing your wheel bearing(s) and tie rods to crap out. They are all linked.
I bought KYB Struts from a tire supplier they did the tie rods/bearings & struts for $800. I got a deal because I always buy tires from them.
None of my Toyota's, Honda's nor Chrysler products ever had the kind of nagging problems as Nissan.
No more Nissans!
Sorry for violating Edmunds policy and suggesting that one engage in less than acceptable behaviour to resolve their very frequent and very expensive problems you encounter with your Murano's and maybe other Nissan products.
I retract my earlier posts.
The coolant circulates through a "jacket" in the oil filter mount. In this assembly there are several connections and seals. You have an '04 - so it is likely through age these items are getting brittle and lived a good life on a bad car model.
I had the same problem.
I seem to have had almost all the problems that folks post here. That is why I sold my Murano and went back to Toyota. I bought a 4Runner.
They can look for wrecked cars and locate (most times) good parts off of wrecked cars at junk yards.
Just a thought......
I told him I thought they were pretty good cars.
Maybe not?....
Nissan has to be the worst auto company in the western world today.
Nothing more needs to be said.
And, I realize that forums like this tend to attract people that do have problems like a magnet.
I think I'll just direct my friend to this forum and let him decide for himself.
If your '05 Murano is still perfect @90K then why would you bother to comment in the "Nissan Murano Maintenance and Repair" category?
The majority that came here several years ago were searching for answers because of the unusual problems we were running into and the exhorbitant repair costs. Things that are not common to other Mfg'rs. vehicles.
When the Murano was introduced it was a unique vehicle with a lot of new technologies that were supposed to set a new standard in motor vehicles.
It was a failure. The Murano & Nissan have not gotten enough bad press today because of Toyota's problems over shadowing and the Murano has become the new yuppie "Kool-Aide" drinking cult car. It is billed as environmentally correct; etc.
If your read back thru my posts, you will find that I have offered a great deal of technical advice of how I delt with repairs; and, tried to do it on a "working man's" budget.
I have offered correct advice through out; No one has ever disputed that my recommendations on repairs were incorrect. Many have thanked me for helping them out.
It is unfortunate that people like you keep returning, accusing those of us who have suffered as "Nissan owners", of being "hostile commentators".
When your Murano starts to crap out you may return and we will take you under our loving care and help you thru it.
Maybe you're the one who has hostility issues - I don't know - it is not for me to judge and then insult.
Until then, best of luck!
Unfortunately, the better dealer could not overcome the louzy car quality.
It is not an opinion, but an experience.
When my Murano's repair cost passed the $12K mark I had to stop the bleeding and get rid of it. It would have been more if I had not done a lot of the repairs myself.
I think I may have to start a website that offers nothing but pure counceling for Nissan owners.
PLEASE HELP THANKS
PLUS IS THAT THE ERROR CODE YOU HAD BANK ONE ?TRYING TO FIND OUT IF THAT IS THE REAR OR FRONT CAT SINCE THERE IS APPARENTLY THREE PARTS THANKS AGAIN
Corporate Headquarters
Eastern Manufacturing, Inc.
2151 Cabot Blvd. West
Langhorne, PA 19047-1808
Tel: 215.702.3600
Tel: 800.553.7199
Fax: 215.702.3606
"easterncatalytic.com"
Note: I discovered an oil leak problem prevalent with Murano engines. I do not know exactly where the source is; but, oil is leaking into the left bank converter and causing contamination. Once the platininum is saturated with hydrocarbons the ceramics over heat and will crumble and clogg up your exhaust pipe. This will cause more problems so get it taken care of soon. Try a Midas shop. Take the CAT you purchased to them and they will take care of the labor.
It can be done by yourself; but, it is a tricky job. Needs lots of sockets, swivels and extensions; and patience.
After your done, sell the car. The problem will re-ocurr. Good luck.
I asked if they had the correct Antifreeze they verified they had what I needed.
They used "Dex-cool" it appears there are many types/colors of Dex-cool. My original coolant was Green and the replacement is green also. I do not know what brand they used. Is Dex-cool acceptable replacement?
Having just purchased a new 2011 SL Murano and reading the owners manual (OM) , I am wondering if some, not all, of the CVT and engine problems discussed here are because the "break in" or daily use of the overdrive/and or/ low gear were not used correctly? I have come to the conclusion that it must be some sort of a dealer "golden rule" with other dealers to NEVER inform the customer of the break in period. It must be a way to keep “the back end shop full of customers”. Dissatisfied customers move on to other makes and models and the cycle starts over again ..
When I purchased a new 2009 Frontier and asked if there was any sort of break in, (I asked two different people on two different occasions) I was told no. I was told to just drive it and enjoy it. Well, checking out the OM I discovered there WAS a specific procedure to follow during the break in period.
Purchasing this new vehicle, (same dealer) I didn’t bother asking anyone if there was any break in. Even during the customer check off list, it was not even mentioned by anyone. Reading the OM it did have a very restrictive break in period. Further reading for the use of the low gear and use of the overdrive push button, I was shocked to find out, unlike a conventional tyranny, these two “gears” have a very specific limited use. The OM went on saying, “Otherwise, severe damage and shorten life of the engine and/or CVT could occur.”
Reading this, I wondered how many used Murano’s out there, return leased, etc., or still in use by the original owners, have had the break in schedule and the use of the overdrive and or low gear followed correctly.
Just a thought.
Thanks
lcw
lcw
Thanks
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Has Nissan had a silent recall on these? I got a letter extending the warranty on the CVT but nothing to date on the engine/head gasket. I have it with the dealer I bought it from now getting looked at.
thanks in advance!
rgds cardad5
the crank sensor 60000 miles
the cam sensor at 75000 replace
the seat gear broken( I replaced the gear myself )
the frame cracked fix myself ( had it welded)
now for the on going stuff
like the hesitation after driving on the expressways and coming to a stop in traffic then it hesitate in taking off still exist still dont see any answer to this ? anyone figure out what this is ? (I've seen reply's like it's the trans but I dont believe it has been going on way to long to be that and not always happens )
I do now have drops of oil either from rear seal or transfer case I treat with Wynn's ( its not much that comes out ) but the issue is it drops on the exhaust and burning oil smell appears.
the rt side window doesnt stay up when using the auto up it drops back down 6" ( dealer couldn't program ??)
When I have the tail gate open it locks all doors after a minute I almost lock my keys in it - dealer couldnt re-program it ?? any ideals out there ?
gas door actuator fails to open ( I just prevent it from locking not worth the trouble or cost )
maybe it's time I should think about trading it in for another car or SUV ...
I am using the manual mode. I have replaced the relay back in February 2012. Worked fine until last week. If I wiggle the relay or hit the fusebox are it will normally start. Searching the internat the relay is the problem. The relay is standard nothing hi-Tech. It would appear that the relay is not making a good connection but the relay replacement does fix the problem. This replacement I am going to verify that the contacts are good and tweak the terminals to insure that the connection is good.
Anyone have any sugestions
I took the relay apart and it is very cheaply built. The relay does not have any over-travel. It does not have a very heavy contact for being a 30 amp relay.
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