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Comments
robert
I used this link to contact Daimler/Chrysler and it was pretty helpful... hope it is for you too.
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/DAKOTA/order_status.html
I was very surprised and concerned when I saw your post! I to got the factory trailer tow group and assumed that it would be adequate for the rated tow capacity(4800 with 3.55 rear end). I checked the hitch as you suggested and it is indeed,as is yours, rated at 3500lb!! I will be towing about 4500lb (boat)! Since you are already doing the "leg work" on this, I will wait until I hear more from you on this matter before I contact my dealer!!!
Thanks for the Info!
Gary
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/DAKOTA/order_status.html
Bookitty
Class II could be a 1-1/4" tube, or a 2" tube is rated @ 3,500# or less.
Class III is rated @ 3,000-6000#.
Class IV is is rated @ 7,500#.
These rating are for usage without weight distributing factor, and depend on rating of towing vehicle. All are restricted to the "weakest link in the chain", whether it is the hitch, towing vehicle or ball and/or insert.
This information taken from after market resource.
Bookitty
Excellent, dead accurate info. - nice job. The weight distibuting hitch, typically class IV, has the two 'spring bars' between the hitch & trailer frame. These 'flex' linking the trailer frame to the truck frame, with the bars moving / bending vertically to allow the trailer & vehicle frame to move separately. These 'spring bars' then - theoretically - distribute the tongue weight three ways.
Example: a 'dead' tongue trailer weight of 450# would have 1/3 or 150# transferred equally to the front wheels of the tow vehicle, (150#) to the rear wheels and (150#) to the trailer wheels.
Still not sure if our dilemma is a bad sticker, parts screwup or technical idiocy at Dodge. Whichever, all of us who ordered the factory tow option AHC (which also required ADJ - HD service group). both for a total of some $336 - $395. should - make that WILL - get satisfaction from the Dodge boys. All of you keep your window stickers!
Keep the info rolling in.
so i guess its better to respect the engineering capabilities of the truck, i am just going to make my own sticker and put over the dodge sticker with the weight limits, and put a sticker that simply says (class IV), so uhaul wont bother me anymore. now since i had this problem, and there was such a big misunderstanding, dc agreed to a: put a class 4 aftermarket on my truck at their cost and still be no better off except for the sticker or b: give me a weight distribution setup at no charge so i can tow my boat safely and legally.
i think i will go with (b), i want to be safe and comfortable with my towing.
good luck all,
robert
Bookitty
i hope this was as fun for you guys and gals as it was for me!!
p.s. is anyone else gonna get dc to buy them the distribution like i did, or am i the only one that needs it?
p.s.s., i did the receiver legwork, whos gonna do the ticking in the dash legwork? LOL...
good luck all,
robert
You stated...
>>>>...it can only go up to 6100lbs (in my case)
Is the advertised 6100 capacity for your particular truck/setup standard towing or with the weight distribution? If it is standard and Dodge says they use the same class IV hitch for all of them and just put the appropriate sticker on the hitch for each vehicles capacity, why didn't your sticker say 6,100?
Does this mean that their advertised towing capacity in the brochures is only with the weight distribution system and the actual towing capacity for standard is much lower? Maybe that's why they always have the words "properly equipped" in small print. You need to equip the vehicle with a weight distribution system in order to tow the vehicles advertised towing capacity.
Chad
enjoy your quads,
robert
Is this on restriction regardless, or is it only on 4wd or if ordered separately? If it is on restriction, I may try to get the individual pieces of the package included without the handling group, but at the all-in-one price. By the way, is the tire and handling package a "must have" type of thing? I think the truck handles fine without it, but would appreciate any comments.
Thanks, in advance.
KnK
options were: 4.7 V8, auto, 3.55lsd,tow package,
hd service group,overhead conv. group,AM/FM/CD/Cassete with audio controls,leather wheel,deluxe conv. group,alarm,and heated mirrors. My dealer called and told me my truck had arrived last Thursday 1/27!!! I was amazed. I think your chances are good of ordering a 4x2 and getting it in decent time. the 4x4's seem to be on restriction for some reason. my truck has the tire and handling package so I don't think this would delay your order.my only problem was the mirrors were improperly entered in the computer (just a guess)
and I did not get them. I can live with out them and they adjusted the price. Good Luck with your order! You will love this truck, the 4.7 is a great engine. I have not heard the ticking sound from the firewall that some have described, maybe I had the stereo on too much!
4x4, auto, 4.7L, and a few goodies. Great Information here. My questions are :
. Has anyone bought the antilock brakes ? Is it
worth it?
. With 4x4 should I consider the anti spin
differential? Why.
I worry about Dodge's quality. But I love their
innovation.
Thanks. Dave.
I'm also having a difficult time adjusting the rearview mirror, it seems to be to narrow! My last minor complaint is that there is no off position on the fan speed. The comfort dial must be in the off position for the fan to be off!
So far those are my only complaints(all minor); otherwise I absolutely love the truck and chit chatting with ya-all(from TX)!
I would like to hear from anyone those out there so we can compare notes.
Has anyone been to a dealer and had it fixed?
Is anyone aware of a service bulletin?
Respond here or send to myersed@clas.net
My solenoid is triple rubber mounted. (Rubber standoffs holding the rubber-mounted bracket holding the rubber-mounted solenoid.)
According to the shop manual, this (And most other) diagnostic routines will not even run during cold weather.... Thus my Dak has not been able to run the diag. routine. I have never had any ticking since purchacing in November. (But have been listening for one)
by the looks of other experiences with 4x2's,maybe i'll see this truck before st. patrick's day...
is there a way to monitor an oder progress via a factory webb site...like following a package on ups?
What is the location of the solenoid on the firewall. I haven't purchased the Owners maintenance manual yet.
By the way, did you order via the info in the basic operators manual? Also, are you pleased with the manual. I seem to recall it to be approx $90 plus shipping.
Interesting that you mention that the solenoid sampling process should not run in cold weather. I live in Missouri and during the moderate cold snap we had over the past 2 weeks I still noticed it (temp dropped to the teens) . What I observed during the cold snap, was that the tick was more noticable after the last of shifting of the transmission. Evidently the last transmission shifting process does not occur until the tranny is up to temp. That took me about 5 minutes of driving. At that time the RPM dropped several hundred and then it appeared to me that the ticking was more pronounced. This could just be more apparent due to the engine noise being reduced at the lower RPM.
I can't imagine a solenoid firing at such a high rate having a long life expectancy for sampling- unless it is engineered and constructed like an injector.
Either way, I hope to hear more feedback from others having the noise as well. Obviously, "some a do"- and "some a don't" have the noise.
In fact, I manually squeezed the rubber boots on each of these joints- If there is grease in them, you couldn't feel it under the boot.
Any ideas on how to grease these puppies without a Zerk fitting. There are no holes to insert any as far as I can tell. I do not want to have to replace these at 30-60 K when they wear out, just to get a fitting.
My last truck had 200K miles at 20 yrs of age and I never had to replace any kingpins or joints other than U-joints.
I have the 5sp manual driven by the 4.7L OHC V8.
The solenoid has been described in these forums as being on the firewall above the engine. I have exactly one item on my firewall in this location. (Slightly towards the drivers-side of the engine.) I have never heard the so-called 'ticking noise' but I have read descriptions of its source and have verified the existence of the solenoid in the shop manual that describes the diagnostics for the fuel-tank breather system.
Your 'ticking noise' may have a different source. Let us know what you discover.
I am not worried about lack of grease nipples. Today's ball joints, tie-rod-ends and other suspension parts are pretty reliable under normal usage patterns. My wife's 4WD Honda 1991 Cvicc has over 125,000 miles on it and each independently suspended wheel has about 8 moving joints. Although I was initially concerned about their reliability, I never had one lick of trouble with them. (Not to mention 4 set of tires, 3 exhaust systems, a radiator and a warped head repair.)
I had an interesting observation a couple days ago when shifting the auto transmission from drive to reverse. If I quickly move the shifter from one position to the other, the transmission appears to make a ratcheting noise. I though it odd because no other vehicle I have ever owned would do that. It repeated whenever I would transition back and forth- I waited to shift again, after it settled into the respective gear.
I am wondering whether the tick is the so called fuel purge valve or rather, if it is related to the torque converter /transmission. I also noticed that when parked and in gear (with foot on brake) it still ticks. If I accelerate with the brake on it increases the ticking rate. The frequency of the tick is related to the engine RPM- but then again so is the rotation of the torque converter, if I remember correctly. This clearly eliminates the rest of the drive train from the planetary gears and back.
I may get around to climbing underneath with a stetescope and start listening intently. But I prefer to hear from others first.
Obviously if those with the Manual transmission (Like yourself) do not hear the noise and only those with the auto do(assuming that everyone is capable of heraing the subtle noise)- then we may be getting to the source. I hope others respond like you did.
Did the book state which 2 fittings were accessible? By the way, do you have the factory manual?
NOW READ THIS!!!
This is not a general lift of restrictions, and is applicable to this particular order. Not that it means my order only, but a group of orders that were processed within a certain time frame. Here's hoping.
Bookitty
I bought one about 2 weeks ago. Quad, 4X4, SLT, every option they have, 5.9v8 (4.7 too small for me), 4 speed auto.. I love it.. Runs like a raped ape, and pulls a house full. The ride is like no other truck I have even seen.
This one was hard to come by. I guess the dealers are having a hard time keeping them in stock.
BUY BUY BUY.
Also, to everyone (and no one in particular) questioning whether to buy full time 4 wheel drive, ABS, etc: take an honest look at how you're going to use the truck. Mine is primarily a street ride with no hard core off-roading. I got the full time transfer case and 4 wheel ABS because the streets in Cleveland get real messy from Halloween to Easter - no matter how late in the year Easter falls. I don't do any serious off-roading, but travel down some pretty rugged roads hauling scouts, popup campers, etc. I've had 4 wheel ABS on my part time 4 wheel drive Suburban and wouldn't be without it. It chatters when the transfer case is locked, which leads me to believe it works when part time 4wd is engaged. But I completely agree that anyone who goes off-road or is looking to use the truck in other types of situations would equip it differently. A case in point - I probably wouldn't consider the full time transfer case and would take a hard look at 4 wheel ABS if I lived with my in-laws down south.
The key is to be honest with yourself regarding how you're going to use it, and spec it out accordingly.
Bookitty
Jim
I could not have refuted the theory based on individuals with automatics - who either truely did not have a tick nor, possibly could not hear the tick sound.
I currently have 4 wheel ABS on a Stratus and it works great on wet & snowy surfaces to maintain control. 4 wheel ABS would no doubt work great on 2WD and 4WD versions of the Dakota as long as you're on the highway and not in 4WD mode (in the case of a 4WD equipped vehicle). Problems occur other situations because:
1. When you lock into the 4WD mode, all of your
wheels are now rotating in unison. ABS can't detect one wheel loosing traction and skidding versus the rotational speed of the other wheels.
The ABS computer just can't tell whats going on
anymore.
2. You're stopping distances will greatly increase with ABS in off-road situations. They say that when you're in loose dirt/sand/gravel and you put on a panic stop with "normal" brakes, a pile of dirt/sand/gravel quickly builds up in front of the non-rotating tire and this helps to stop you pretty quick. They say a wise person would disable the ABS by pulling the fuse out while you're off-road (not in 4WD mode). If the ABS is enabled (still not in 4WD mode) and you're into a panic stop, the ABS would allow each wheel to rotate to some degree as to not loose traction. Even this small amount of rotation would not allow that little pile of dirt/sand/gravel to build in front of each tire and therefore your stopping distance increases.
Although not specifically stated, it appears that
if you're off-road and in 4WD mode the ABS is essentially disabled. Therefore, in a panic stop, your braking system would lock all 4 wheels, in either a 2 or 4 wheel ABS, you'd get the desired little piles of dirt/sand/gravel and would stop in the shortest possible distance.
Does any of this sound logical and apply to the
Dakota? Has anyone disabled the ABS system by pulling out "the fuse"?
I'll be picking it up tomorrow, Oh the Excitement! :-)
Great thread about the tow package/hitch.
-Curt
Any thoughts, ideas, or examples of how to move the dealer from his position would be helpful. I am shooting for $100 over invoice, plus 50% off extended warranty. I will let him keep the dealer hold back.
Also, this dealership has a $270 charge for "cleaning the vehicle after being shipped by train." At that price I will clean it myself. Anybody else experienced a charge like that?
Thanks,
KnK
I'm not discouraged, still a lot of snow and salt around here right now. They can still meet my request for delivery the last week of March.
OZARK - did you get a good deal on your Quad? You didn't say anything about it.
ALL MANUFACTURERS PAY DEALERS FOR THIS
If you pay one cent then they are getting paid twice.
There is a web site that taught me this and all kinds of other useful tips - I'm trying to remember what it was and then I'll post.
http://www.carbuyingtips.com
good luck on your quad, i love mine,
robert
robert
looks sharp in driftwood with mopar premium cloth
tonneau cover. wheel flares still on backorder.
rear stabilizer bar as part of tire and handling
package is not listed on the window sticker. neither is power steering cooler as part of the
service group. dealer says it is on the truck. should I trust him on this?
(henne) also have the same problem with class 4
hitch receiver(or not). dealer says that I can use a regular ball hitch up to 3500lbs. and must use weight distributing hitch for anything over
3500lbs. who did you talk to at DC to get them to pay for your hitch?
no ticking sound, but did notice foam in oil filler tube. got to get this checked out.
love this truck, well worth the wait.
chris
good luck,
robert
Thanks...