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Thanks
dusty
If not, the electronic traction control just showed you it's limitation
I only have ABS on my truck, and when it comes into action on ice or snow I have to set the transmission into Neutral to come to a full stop. Did we really need this feature? Not sure because my 13 year old Toyota diesel has nothing else besides 4 good winter tires and it stops on a dime. The Audi quattro has a nice transmission for modern people
As for traction, in up to 4" of snow my Toyota Corolla is even with my Liberty; when there's more snow or ice, I can rely on the Jeep. I already pulled a compact car out of a nasty situation: the BFGs provided sufficient grip on ice to pull the car that landed on a center isle and knocked off a road signalization pillar. The poor little thing had it's front wheels not touching the ground :sick:
Electronic Stability Control Disable Feature For Modified 4WD Vehicles.
Maybe the dealer can look at that TSB and see if it may apply to other Jeep
products.
The TSB is as follows:
NUMBER: 05-001-08
GROUP: Brakes
DATE: January 18, 2008
Here is the link:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-tsb-recalls/tsb-electronic-stability-control-disab- - le-feature-for-modified-4wd-vehicles
I'll watch future posts to see if it works....
My wife's 1998 Chrysler Concorde came with ABS and it was the first vehicle either of us had driven with this feature. It has proven helpful in panic situations and helped keep the vehicle controllable.
In my Jeep, the ABS seems more intrusive than on my wife's car and stops, although well controlled, seem uncomfortably long. At 42K miles I did a complete brake job with new rotors and pads. I purchased good quality high performance slotted and cross drilled rotors with Hawk pads. This turned out to be a major improvement over stock and stopping distances have shortened noticeably even with the ABS. I would like to find a way to disable the ABS, even temporarily to see if there is a difference in control.
I have had the ABS light come on when slipping on ice or snow but only once. Dealer said this was because the ABS was confused by the slippage.
Thanks
Sorry to hear you have had so many repeat problems. It seem that the dealorships don't know what to tell you or how to prevent these incidents. If you really like your CRD I would suggest you buy a $150 analyzer and cable to read the ECU codes yourself. It cost almost $100 per read at the dealorship.
To start, why so many EGR valves! Carbon from exhaust gas recirculation builds up on the valve and makes it stick in the wrong position. This doubles the problem because the valve then lets in too much exhaust gas and you make more carbon buildup. Some mechanics say it is your oil being sucked into the combustion chamber but in reality unless you are using excessive oil it is not the problem. The problem is the EGR valve itself. It is a piece of crap designed for the idiots that live in the Los Angles Basin. It reduces NO2 emissions but increases Carbon deposits and uses more fuel. This seem to be acceptable by Californicators but ruins reliability of great cars. Californicators do not seem to be able to adjust their driving problems by regulating themselves but need to stand on the backs of everyone else to breath air.... AAhmm, just cleared my own EGR valve.
So how do you fix this problem (not for CA. consumption)? Disable the EGR system! This can be done in two ways:
1. Unplug the MAF sensor on your air cleaner.
Costs $0. It will however set the amber check engine light "ON" in the upper right quadrant of the instrument panel. You need to have a "Code Reader" to check you ECU codes occasionally for real problems that may be stored there. Remember using this method causes the "Check Engine" light to remain on.
OR
2. Buy a simulated EGR circuit device and put it on your engine. Cost $250-350 one time charge. This device removes the EGR valve from the electronics that would control its opening and closing and tricks the ECU with realtime engine responses just as if an EGR valve was connected. No warning lights! The real EGR valve remains in the neutral position allowing clean boost air to flow to the engine and happy exhaust to leave no excess carbon anywhere. Where can you get one! JUST search the INTERNET for SEGR and you will find assistance.
Now to address the GlowPlugs. Problem is Carbon again! Glow plugs tightened up against the carbon are bent slightly and when heated and cooled repeatedly under normal use fail early.
When a new glowplug is needed, the hole where it screws in to the combustion chamber needs to be cleaned of carbon. After the old glowpug is removed, the mechanic rotates the engine with either a flywheel wrench or a pulley strap wrench until the exhaust valves for the cylinder in question are open. The mechanic can us a .17 or .22 caliber nylon rifle bore cleaning brush and (believe it) Hoppe #9 bore cleaner to disolve the carbon. Wet the bore hole Hoppes solvent on the brush several times and let set for 30 minutes. Then scrub with more solvent on the brush. Final step is to blow the hole dry with air which will exhust through the valves. Carbon flakes are to small to damage anything in the cylinder. Now a new glowplug can be inserted safely.
I have a 2005 Liberty CRD 128K miles, 1 EGR valve, 1 glow plug, 1 SEGR box.
31 miles per gallon highway, 28 City. 5W40 Winter oil, 10W40 Summer oil. Service interval 3500 miles (regular oil) 6500 miles (synthetic oil) Tire pressure as rated on tire wall, not over inflated or under inflated.
Happy Jeeping!
Does anyone have any insight on this problem?
I really don't have an issue with the function of the ABS, it just takes some getting used to. Mine has been in the shop for 2.5 weeks due to a leaking water pump and some other leaks, takes time to order parts. I got 171000 mi out of timing and fan belts. The Dakota I am driving now does not have the same ABS and I just have to adjust my driving style on the icy roads.
Here is what I learned.
1.Change the fuel filter every 5000 to 10000 miles. Use the factory filter. Apparently the NAPA/Wix replacements do not filter well enough. One of the shops suggested adding a second fuel filter, but neither advocated replacing the stock unit with something like a Racor.
2. Regularly use fuel additive(s) that lubricate the pump, disperse water and improve the cetane. Stanadyne, Redline, Amsoil were mentioned by both shops. The use of Marvel Mystery oil was not recommended by either shop nor was the use of kerosene, even in small amounts.
3. Biodiesel was also on the list of things not to use on a regular basis, even B5. The quality or lack there of is the issue. They both seen increased amounts of algae/fungus in the blend versus straight diesel.
4. With good care, a CP3 pump generally lasts about 200K miles, the injectors about 150K.
5. EGR issues. The "nose blowing" that Caribou advocates is a good thing to do. That helps clear out accumulated soot.
6. If anyone decides to purchase a diesel in the future, it will more than likely have a DPF. You cannot and should not perform the aforementioned "nose blowing". It messes up the DPF.
The Bosch injection shop technician seems quite conservative :P
1. We change fuel filters every 25,000 miles and my truck came with a Racor filter assembly.
2. We are told not to use additives and our winterized fuel was mixed with up to 20% kerosene in volume.
3. Biodiesel is out, the "mixture" is now made with liquefied natural gas.
4. 200K miles for the pump but the pressure regulator should give less.
5. Renault "road angels" published this trick first. They also issued a technical note explaining how to clean their EGR valves.
6. I'm not sure I will ever buy another diesel. I've driven many in 40 years and what we are proposed today is no longer made in the spirit of simplicity.
The need to be conservative on this side of the pond is quite legitimate.
1. The quality of diesel fuel in the United States stinks. It is poor at best. It is still viewed as an industrial fuel for motor transport. Even Daimler mechanics have told me that the Daimler diesels run better on the EU diesel than on domestic diesel. In Europe, the minimum required cetane is 51 or 52. Here in the U.S. it is 40 or better and with the advent of ULSD, it is 43 or 44. When I add lots of cetane improver, then my Jeep runs better, quieter and more smoothly plus fuel economy increases.
2. Diesel fuel in this country is fairly dirty so I can understand the need for frequent filter changes.
I am sorry to read that you are skeptical about buying another diesel. In some respects, the injection systems have become simpler and more reliable. I drove a diesel with a mechanical pump injection system (Bosch licensed) in the early 1980's. It failed at 140K miles and did so in dramatic fashion.
Will I buy another diesel, probably.
You stated you have a Racor filter system on your Jeep. Do you have a part number or model number you can share with me?
A few years ago I posted this picture of my fuel filter:
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Corps_filtre.jpg
Made by Parker under ref# 230 and can be purchased here:
http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_spn_intro/r_spn_specs/r_spn_specs.html
Spin on filter reference is R20s. The "s" stands for finer filtration, 2 microns if I remember correctly instead of 5. Lettering is light brown over beige cartridge color.
I used only two R20s filters since 4 years and they are perfect. With the freezing temperatures I never had any problem of viscosity.
I found a few sites that show how to adapt the Racor filter to the Jeep but they use a model 245 instead of the model 230. In either case, it takes a bit of work and modification to install it.
i've received several helpful tips in the past so i thought i'd try this one. recently my 2006 47kmiles, has done the following;
mainly when still warming up
i am at a stop and press the accelerator midway to the floor. the car starts out very slowly, then shoots a lot of smoke out the tailpipe and then starts to accelerate.
i need to admit that i also have a residual egr valve issue. i spent about $900 having the hardware replaced only to have the check engine light come back on (about the half the trips it is on and the other half it is off. the code is p243. the dealer wants me to spend another $600 on replacing a third piece of hardware in the egr chain. which i am resisting. until this delay/smoke incident the car has been running completely normally.
question; any suggestions about what is causing this delayed acceleration and smoke generation?
thanks in advance for any suggestions
gunnar2
Black smoke is produced when this valve does not close properly because of the accumulation of soot it should inject back into your engine. I disconnected mine about 5 years ago and I'm very happy with what I have.
Racor part # S3209S is a direct spin-on to the existing head unit. It filters down to 2 microns.
Racor part # RK30051 is the clear bowl that screws onto the above filter. It has a port for the existing WIF that should fit, but the Racor people and the supplier were not sure about that.
The clear bowl has the fuel heater built in. This is a "PTC" regulated heater that connects directly to the ignition. The heating element penetrates into the recess of the filter cartridge. When you have both makes of cartridge side by side you will see the syntax and placement of text are the same. This is more than just a coincidence.
If you go to the Wix website and type in the Wix number 33647, you can see what it looks like.
Mine is a GRAY tool, bought from Canadian Tire:
http://www.graytools.com/catalogue/1-2%20Drive%20Sockets%20&%20Attachments.pdf
Flex Handle Ratchet
Part No. 8799F
Description 40 tooth flex handle ratchet
Length 14¹⁄₂"
I read your all posts now and then, and it seems the problems are still there. Caribou 1 I too came to the conclusion that diesels are far to complecated and espensive to keep up, I have no desire to ever own one again.
How many miles on you CRD now? As far as I know you and Winter 2 are the main ones I remember.
Has winter 2 still have the small unique travel trailer?
I hope to read your reply soon.
farout
I had some problems with my tire pressure sensors so I had them all removed the last time I bought new tires. Is there a way to shut off, by-pass or fool the light on the dash for low tire pressure?
I'm still very pleased with my 'de-rated' Jeep that has 110,000 miles.
It runs like new with all original parts except for battery, alternator, front disks and ball joints. It needs lateral body repair but shows no rust, transmission line oil seals and rear disks must be replaced as soon as the weather allows to work outside... Add another set of front disks in 20,000 miles and it should be ready for new shock absorbers...
I haven't used it much last year, I got addicted to one of your 96ci V-twins. It's now or never
Looks like all goes well with you and your Pacifica. I still have my CRD and it is running just fine with nearly 63K miles on the odometer. Fuel economy is quite good. I started a new job on Friday with a twenty-eight mile commute each way. Getting 27+MPG and with long distance, like trips to Florida or NYC yielding 30+ MPG.
Had a rough winter here in the D.C. area with lots of snow. The CRD proved itself more than capable of handling 24 or more inches of snow with great aplomb.
As to the trailer you speak of, I have no clue where you got that from. I do not own a trailer of any kind and I do not tow with my CRD.
My fuel economy did not suffer and in fact over time has gotten better. At nearly 63K miles, fuel economy is better than it ever was when newer.
If your fuel economy has taken that much of a nosedive, then somebody screwed up something.
I do have a good dealer and with a good technician here in Rockville, Maryland but that might be a wee bit far for you to travel for what you need.
dusty
As to buying certain parts for the CRD, it is an unfortunate problem that we are stuck buying certain parts from the dealer because no one has stepped up in the after market to make a replacement part. The CRD is a limited run vehicle so very few after market components were made for it. There are about 11,000 of us here in the U.S.
If I find anyone who carries a timing belt, water pump besides the dealer, I will let you know.