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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    Skid Plates, get your pen and paper, (ok just print this). The Liberty comes with the engine/suspension skid plate. This plate stops at the suspension cross member. The skid plate that goes from the front suspension to the transfer case skid is part number 82210003 @ $??? it is just being released by Jeep today, the system does not have a cost (listed under REF. 56). This one should cover the oil filter and the transmission oil pan based on the description. The transfer case skid plate is 82209455 @ $49.00, the fuel tank is part number 82206122 @$115.00. The transmission skid plate fills in the area between the front plate (required for installation) and the transfer case skid plate.

    Does anybody know if the "Trail Rating" done with the standard non-skid plate model when tested on the Rubicon Trail? or with the $150 option. :cry:
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    We have an '05 CRD with the 'C' Package built in March. 5.5k miles. Put Shell brand diesel in it exclusively, with no extra additives, and have yet to understand all this talk about additives. However, I believe these vehicles may be extra sensitive to diesel quality, so the additives could be well be justified. All I can say is if you have easy access to Shell fuels, worry not.

    When I bought my Jeep in February, the salesman told me not to use addititives. In fact he absolutely scowled when I asked him about them. He told me that it is best to get fuel from a place that sells a lot of it such as a truck stop. He said that he has seen some situations where the fuel can go bad because it sits in the underground tank without being sold. I've pretty well followed his advise, have added no additives and have noted no strange performance.

    The skid plate that goes from the front suspension to the transfer case skid is part number 82210003 $??? it is just being released by Jeep today, the system does not have a cost (listed under REF. 56). This one should cover the oil filter and the transmission oil pan based on the description.

    From the description, it sounds like this plate will need to be removed every time one goes to change the oil. Although I'd like the extra protection, it sure sounds like a nuisance. I also wonder how heavy it would be. I can see myself beneath the truck removing it to change oil and having it bonk me in the head as it is being removed. Is this typical with skid plates?
  • anthonykanthonyk Member Posts: 17
    Well had the EGR valve replaced and the TSB18-018-05 done and she runs like a dream. Towed a camper 4000lbs up and down the Alaska mountain range with no problems. Except once I had the temp scream up to high and just as quick came down after a hit about 4% slope. Next week the dealer might due the TSB that will correct this. Thanks guys for all the info!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    In compressed air lines water is the ennemy and you often add a few drops of oil for lubrification. The Provent is a kind of moisture trap adapted to oil fumes. The non woven fabric that's around it (port of turbo side) would clog rapidly with water and lead to closure of the system. This is why I would not use a standard sintered bronze water separator.
    I've just received my Provent and I will probably install it between the air filter and transmission controller. The air conditionning filter (can) mounted on the firewall has two long threads that can allow for fixation of a second bracket without any modification. I'm just curious to know how much oil can be trapped because my engine does not need refill between every 12,000 miles service. As I wrote in a post some time ago, I open the hood to refill the windshield washer liquid, and nothing else.
    Now if oil vapours go into the admission system, this engine will just burn them.

    Previous (Renault) turbodiesels mounted on the european Cherokee suffered from severe oil leaks that led to destruction of the engines. A friend of mine was towing his boat through a tunnel when his turbo began to leak oil and he waited till he came out of the tunnel to try to stop his engine. In 4th gear applying the brakes the thing didn't want to stop. He put it in neutral was lucky enough to pull aside and let the engine destroy itself. I think this is one of the historical reasons why you have the choke flap on the newer models. The choke flap can block the oil mist out!

    You will never have a steady oil flow come out from the top of the crankcase but if the Provent accumulates oil because it is not well flushed or not installed vertically then the engine may surge for a few seconds. I will install a check valve on the oil return connection to let the eventual oil flow in a can.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Protection for the injectors is even more important now than it was in the past. Using additive in diesel fuel adds lubricity and protects against moisture. Also helps with gelling in cold weather. Also increases cetane.

    I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (silver bottle) in the summer and the white bottle in the winter.

    The reduction in risk of fuel problems is well worth the minimal cost of an additive IMO. Especially with the high pressure fuel systems in the common rail and unit injector diesels.
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    I recently took a rock in the windshield and had to have it replaced. The tech who serviced the jeep worked for a glass place, not jeep dealer. He showed me the top of the windshield on the original glass. There is no rubber gasket installed by jeep on the top. It does not leak because of the sealant used. He said the lack of gasket was a problem for 2 reasons: the lack of gasket lets sunlight (uv) get to the sealant and will eventually degrade and leak; the lack of gasket lets moisture collect in the channel which could be a rusting problem later on. He estimated that it would cost DC 2-3 cents per vehicle to make the install when the car is manufactured. His company always puts in a gasket when they make a repair. In addition to fixing the 2 problems, it does happen to look more "finished" with the gasket installed.

    I have been happy with the car, but maybe this is a general example of what others have been saying about the "cheapining" of the brand by DC, I don't know.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Your reason for the lubricity additive is hard to counter. What is the minimal cost per tankfull if I were to supplement my fuel buying a bottled lubricity additive by the case ? I will assume the cetane and moisture can be otherwise addressed, if they become an issue.
  • dfw2dfw2 Member Posts: 11
    Consistent with the suggested value of additives, I continue to mix biodiesel with the thought that it achieves the same benefits. Reading the materials about biodiesel its supporters say it acts as a lubricant and as a solvent. As a solvent, doesn't it act to clean fuel components and injectors? Additionally, it reduces noise and smoke.

    With regard to its potential value as a lubricant and solvent, can anyone chime in regarding these benefits? And the relative benefits of bio compared to other types of additives?
  • biggsbiggs Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to the forum, so if this question has been asked before, I apologize. We just purchased a 2006 Liberty and have noticed that when the vehicle is idling to allow the turbo to cool down, there is a noticable whine. After it cools down the whining stops. Is this normal? Several years ago I owned a Dodge Cummins and I don't remember the turbo whining at cool down.
  • patentguypatentguy Member Posts: 45
    Here is some info on biodiesel.

    Biodiesel Myths and Facts

    The general page is National Biodiesel Board

    I use B20 as often as I can in my CRD, and I have had absolutely zero problems to date.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Thought I would report that I just returned from a 460 mile round trip from northern WI - All of my driving was Interstate highway - did not exceed 70 MPH at any time and tried to use cruise whenever possible set at 68 MPH. 460 miles took 15.3 gallons of fuel - and I tried to squeeze in all that I could into the tank - fuled and refueled at the same station, same position. If my calculations are correct, this comes to right around 30 MPG!!! I was not even down to the 1/4 mark on the fuel guage when I returned! At this rate, I can expect that an owner of a CRD could greatly exceed the 500 mile range advertised by Chrysler! I am very happy! spete
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Consistently cheap and engine-safe biodiesel is a myth, unless you farm or process rapeseed or other oil crops. The acids and moisture of waste fry oil are not simply overcome. Not to say that if someone has lots of free time it could be spent much better than making homebrew out of waste oil; except, perhaps working for minimum wage at McDonald's, instead of just hauling off their grease. Now, if I could draw welfare and homebrew....... :P

    One-ounce of lubricity additive can treat a tank of fuel at 25 cents cost, if bought in bulk. That makes $ sense.
  • sailman397sailman397 Member Posts: 15
    Biggs,

    The whining could be from the electric cooling fan, I have noticed a whining type noise from it when it is on. I am 12k miles and loving the diesel. One problem so far, early on, with a bad EGR. It was replaced and the computer reprogramed, that was about 6k ago. I have used B20 and noticed a smoother engine idle, no change in fuel economy.

    Regards,

    Will
  • drt1crddrt1crd Member Posts: 7
    How do you know if your EGR is bad or if you need the computer flash?

    My jeep seems to run good but I only average around 21-22 mpg on my commute which is 50/50 city / hwy.

    Thanks,

    Daniel
  • smilie1smilie1 Member Posts: 21
    Sounds terrific,in my case the all time best was 26mpg in the first 5k miles.At that time,the EGR was replaced and the computer TSB was done.After that I get between 22 and 24mpg with a mix of Interstate and secondary roads,and about 13-14mpg pulling the travel trailer.Under the same type of conditions,I have noticed that using BP,Citgo,or Shell low sulfur"premium" fuel a slightly better average than plain truck stop diesel #2.
  • bigpapabigpapa Member Posts: 30
    Caribou1,

    I apologize for not responding to your post any sooner. I've had a lot going on and haven't been checking the posts as much. The oil that will eventually be trapped I plan to drain it. I really haven't figured out how I will eventually run the collected oil back into the sump. I did a test but you will need two people for this. I took the cover off the Provent while the engine was running as you will see the crankcase oil vapors rising. As the engine RPM's increase you will be able the see the vapors being sucked through filter in a cyclone fashion. If you have any ideas on the check valve for the oil drain, please let me know. I had to take my Provent back off before I took it to the dealer for them to replace my EGR.

    My check engine light had come on and I checked the codes. P 0299 and P 0410 came on. I took it to the dealer and had a TSB done to it. The dealer re flashed my computer and I got my jeep later that day. It fixed my shudder and jerking problems. The next day the check engine light came back on again and right back to the dealer it goes. They advised me that they needed to replace my EGR valve assembly. When I got my jeep back I noticed a huge difference in my engine response, mileage, and drives smoother.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi bigpapa,
    It's really sad you have to face so many problems with your engine. Mine really works like a jewel. I still have to wait until sept 16th before I put my hands in there. The dealerships here force you to have everything done by themselves if you want warranty coverage.
    The Provent can be drained automatically if you use a check valve that gets sucked (closed) by the engine vacuum. Once the engine is turned off, then the valve relaxes and lets the eventual collected oil come out of the hose/tube.
    There is one thing I fear with your installation, it's the hardening of the pvc hoses. They are not the best around an engine. I'm thinking of moulding a silicon reduction-adaptor for the hoses to get to the standard engine diameter. In case of a leak the non filtered air would get into the turbo without passing through the filter. Perhaps with heat and vibrations one should be precautious here.
    I would'nt bother with recuperating the oil by sending it back into the sump. I doubt it's worth the investment of a banjo adaptor on the drain plug with the risk of ripping the hose off by vegetation or any other object.
  • jc7349jc7349 Member Posts: 17
    I use Stanadyne Performance formula in all three of my diesel vehicles. You would be hard pressed to find a better product. Most of all the truckers use the same thing. In todays vehicles it is essential to use a conditioner not only for cold weather but because of the wide range of fuel quality. Lubricity is another problem with these fuels.

    Check out their web site at: http://www.stanadyne.com/new/index.asp
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    ">link titleShouldn't the fuel suppliers put what your engine needs into the fuel? See the following link which suggests that they do.
    Additives

    Can I trust that they do process the fuel in an appropriate manner so that I don't have top add extra chemicals? The Jeep seems to run fine without extra stuff of unknown chemical makeup gurgled into the tank.
  • bigpapabigpapa Member Posts: 30
    Caribou1,

    Thank you for your input. I will be making some changes before I install the Provent back into its rightful place. I did notice a little hardening in the clear pvc stranded hose.
  • larneslarnes Member Posts: 59
    The best I can supply is that the engine was built in Italy.

    Larry
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    21-22 mpg in combined driving is on the lower end of what the Liberty CRD delivers, but is probably expected, depending on your circumstances. Try a long, non-stop freeway trip on cruise control at 60-70 mph. That's when it'll shine at 26+.
  • battson34battson34 Member Posts: 2
    I'm about to purchase a 2005 CRD sport with sunroof and tow package. Does anyone have a similar vehicle? If so, what was your purchase price? ;) They are offering $1000 DC fin. discount plus employee discount.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out Jeep Liberty: Prices Paid & Buying Experience too.

    Steve, Host
  • stucoltsstucolts Member Posts: 15
    Hi When purchasing a liberty diesel you should get 6.5 to 7 % OFF the sticker price plus the 1000 rebate on a NO trade transaction. If the dealer says no way, tell him you will find a dealer that will say yes and walk away. And yes leave them your phone number they may call you back. DONT give in. When I bought mine they also had 0% financing.
  • gerbsgerbs Member Posts: 11
    I went to a dealership close to my house today (sat.) and talked to a salesman about liberty CRD. He told me they were not going to make them in 2006 as they did not meet emissions requirements. Is he telling me this so that I will buy a 2005 or is this for real?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    ASTM Diesel Standards

    What is the cetane of the diesel fuel you are buying? What is the lubricity? What is the sulfur content? What is the thermal stability? What is the low temperature operability? The info. is not on the pump. Buying diesel is like playing roulette. Too much left to chance. IF, low sulfur, high cetane fuel is available in your area at least you eliminate some of the variability.

    The Jeeps CRD engine was designed to run on low sulfur, high cetane diesel of EU and modified to run on our low quality, low cetane, high sulfur diesel of the USA and Canada.

    I know what the additive will do. It is the same quality every time.

    You can trust the diesel fuel that you buy if you want to, I'll take the precaution of adding the "extra stuff" and know that cetane, lubricity, low temperature performance are improved.
  • kyjeeperkyjeeper Member Posts: 31
    Mine is alot like yours, I work with a mechanic, he said it was very unlikely it has air in lines, I thought mine was going to be ok, I took off pretty hard, run up to 55 slowed down the engine feels like its running out of fuel, before I have even turned the over-drive off, it will still just about quit, this Jeep has had this problem since day one, nobody knows whats wrong, my wife, the main driver, thinks if we wait long enought DC will come up with a fix, I hope she's right.This whole thing makes me sick. I stopped the additive too, I did fill up with Shell. thanks for comments
  • kansan1kansan1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I am new to this fourm, and am currently looking at the liberty with the 2.8 turbo diesel. I would appreciate any information/ insite that you might share. I am familar with the Libertys' ability to handle bad weather (blown off road in a snow storm) and how it fares in an accident (rolling over and being hit). My decission would be on how it does on fuel efficency. I drive about 180 miles a day highway and need something better than my pickup (16 mpg). I am testing the Toyota Priza, but not sure how it will handle winter weather.

    Once again THANK YOU for any help you might provide.

    Sincerly

    CCapes
  • lavagirllavagirl Member Posts: 1
    The Jeep Liberty Diesel will be offered in 2006. However, with the stricter Tier 2 emissions regulations that will go into effect in 2007 for passenger cars and light-duty trucks, it is possible that 2006 could be the last model year for the Liberty CRD if Chrysler cannot lower the current emissions rating on the diesel engine which is still at Tier 2, Bin 10 emissions. I, too, am hoping to get a 2006 CRD myself and have just been waiting for Jeep to update their website with the new model info, which should be later this month when the employee pricing deal expires. I have also seen the 2006 CRD listed for sale on eBay, complete with photos of the window sticker. If you want to read more about the new Liberty models, DaimlerChrysler just issued a press release the other day on the 2006 Liberty, including the 2006 CRD.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    moparbad,
    Do you have a central heating system that burns oil where you live?
    Well, this same heating oil provider has the proper 'taxed' diesel fuel for the truck.
    The different diesel fuels described in your link cover from marine to automobile usage. I doubt all of these can be found within 200 miles because they are too different, and would cost a fortune to store for retail.
    All 4x4 raiders going from europe to other continents add a second water strainer on the fuel line of the common rail diesels, but they use what they can buy and sometimes what can burn...
    I think DC added a lot of electronics, perhaps too much for you folks to enjoy.
    I remember reading an article saying that if the north americans would not buy the CRD, the europeans would. Does DC really want to sell?
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Yes DC does want to sell us the CRD's ,including the new 3.0L V6 version for the new Commander.
    I would say a "fix" is in the works.These were intendedto be put on the market as a more environmentally friendly vehicle.
    They only put about 5000 in the North American market this year, to see if they would sell.They weren't too sure that Americans were ready for diesels yet .So they decided to test the waters .
    But of course people would buy them.As gas prices jump steadily up ,more people are looking for a replacement SUV.
    Most are not ready to go back to an "econo - box" yet,because of a life style change,plus the fact that most hybreds and small cars aren't good for towing long distances,but these puppies were built for more than one purpose,including longevity,and styling.
    Speak soon
    Lightnin3
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I need some information, I am within days of picking up a 2005 2.8 CRD Spor. I am seriously ready to trade my 2005 Limited 3.7 for better fuel milage. My gas limited is steady at 17.7 mpg in mixed traffic driving. We really like the Limited, the problem is we drive about 2500 miles a month. Would it be worth my while to make this change? IF....the CRD reaaly gets 25 mpg it seems to be able to pay for the difference in about 3 years. Mu wife and I are retired and this well could be our last car to buy, perhaps. ( we hope not) ANY ADVICE WOULD REALLY HELP!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I prefer the big 4 inline to the small 6 for this truck. You will loose too much engine braking with the 6 cyl., especially going down steep mountain roads or logging trails. With the common rail I noticed that even in LO mode 2nd gear, as soon as the revs are above 2000, it doesn't hold back enough and you have to use the brakes. This was not the case with the older types of diesels. This is unfortunately one of it's limitations.
    Here's a cute place where the unique access road climbs so much you can only see the road in the windshield, you have to look through the side window to watch the sky:
    http://www.lesjoyeuxrandonneurs.ch/tanay.html
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Hi! If you tow, go off road, or live in a snowy area, this is the vehicle for you. You will have to learn how to drive it though. It's not like a gas or conventional diesel. You will be using the gas peddle to cause the transmission to shift up as well as down. If you don't need a SUV, check out the Jetta TDI wagon... 47 mpg!
    I'm retired too and feel that I would have fared better with the Jetta wagon.

    Good luck! LK
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    You can trust the diesel fuel that you buy if you want to, I'll take the precaution of adding the "extra stuff" and know that cetane, lubricity, low temperature performance are improved

    Thanks - I guess I will. If I've got an engine that can run on cooking oil with some thinning agents, I'm not going to lie awake worrying about what my local gas station is selling me. I'll just make sure I frequent a station with a lot of business.

    However, I will do some other things for longevity of the beast.

    I will let the motor idle for 15 to 30 seconds after a hard run. I do worry about the life of the turbo.

    I will use the expensive grade of oil the manufacturer recommends.

    I plan on using my block heater during the anticipated cold Winter weather with timed heating for about an hour prior to departure. I may also add a battery heater.

    Anyone hear about the changes in the Jeep diesel Liberty for 2006? Maybe we'll all be flabbergasted and see a diesel hybrid.......
  • chuggachugga Member Posts: 11
    farout, we always exceed 25 mpg in our CRD .We have a totally loaded Limited with 6000 miles on it.We just got back from a 230 mile "Sunday Drive" in the mountains.The trip computer now reads 31 mpg avg. This includes driving around a town square a few times, starting and stopping 5 different times for shopping and climbing some fairly steep roads.They are just amazing ! Just remember you do need to drive differently like anomious says. Good luck!
  • frostyyfrostyy Member Posts: 52
    I recently ordered a 06 Liberty diesel (Limited) and traded in my 04 Grand Cherokee Overland with the 4.7L V8....it make take awhile getting used to driving a Liberty with such a vastly different engine and interior...hope I made a good decision...the Liberty is supposed to take about 4-6 weeks for delivery...

    The main reasons I chose the Liberty are: 1) towing capacity of 5000 lbs; 2) better fuel economy than the V8 Cherokee or the V6 Gas Liberty; 3) it is rather short and will fit in the garage (along with bikes, motorcycles, etc) much more easily than the new Cherokee which is now 5 inches longer than the 04; 4) a true 4x4 compared to AWD vehicles (Honda)--- which may or may not get me through some deep snow in the winter; 5) I just like to buy North American and I have had 5 previous Jeeps so I guess you could say I am brand loyal...
  • cu1981cu1981 Member Posts: 13
    Here is the link... I am sure you could email and find out if the turbo was made here...

    http://www.vmmotori.it/en/01/01/dettAutoOggi.jsp?autoId=53
  • vatrahosvatrahos Member Posts: 2
    I just priced a similar vehicle in NC,,,,,bottom line 23,800..is this good? Also, besides emissions any other changes with the 2006? What happens when new emmissions come into effect... do the older vehicles have to comply?
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Hi Frosty !, Congrats on buying your new Jeep .


    On behalf of all DC employees, we want to thank all Jeep owners for your loyalty .
    Buying our products in the grand scheme of things is like investing in your own job.
    just basic economics.

    I hope you have as much luck and fun as I had with mine as you will with yours.

    Like you ,I am a Jeep man/person myself.
    After many reliable years of owning my Gr.Cherrokee ,was ready for another one and was so elated to finally see a diesel option,that offered double the mileage and more power ,from what I realised.

    Driving diesel is a whole different attitude.
    If you want to save on fuel costs ,
    1/Do regular maintenance as stated in the book.
    using the sythetic mobile 1 oil.
    2/Take your time getting to where you want to go,so lay off the peddle.
    The idea is to not engage the turbo unless you need to.
    You will find 20% better mileage if:

    When on the Hwy don't go over 100 Km's in speed .I actually found out through the Chrysler engineering that our vehicles get maximum fuel mileage at 55Mph/90 Km's.
    .

    3/ Don't forget to order your class 3 hitch ,
    - .

    They can mount it on , at that time it comes in.
    Make sure you order the 7 pin connector ,instead of the 4 pin.
    Just in case you have to tow a trailer with electric brakes.

    4/Also try to make a deal on the tires .The standard ones are only good for summer driving.You can go to a tire store and get them changed and get a rebate on the stock ones.
    I suggest B.F. Goodrich All terrain T/A's or Michelin LTX M/S.
    I have been getting 4 years 80K's of these types ,and they are a good all around tire as well. The Michelins have been around for awhile and they have come down alot in price, the past 2 years.
    But I have found the B.F Goodrich to be a grippier tire,and the Michelin a quieter one.

    You might want to consider getting winter Chrome rims and keep the aluminum ones for summer use. although aluminum is sweet looking,they have a down side.
    As salt off the roads has a tendency to make them leak after a couple of years.
    Steel seems to hold up a little better.
    I am eyeing a set of AP's rims .They have quite an assortment of styles and seem to be of good quality.

    I am sure you will be happy with your new purchase.

    I have been getting 700-800 Km's out of a tank of fuel,and paying lately 97 cents/litre.
    I suggest buying from shell as they have 2 grades of fuel.I use the diesel ultra for when I go on long trips and towing power.

    Have fun and good luck .
    Speak Soon ...
    Lightnin3
  • rocknrollrocknroll Member Posts: 2
    I am in the market for a new suv and have always been a fan of the liberty. I'm down sizing from a 97 ford expedition that I always felt was underpowered with the smaller 4.6 v8. My concern is which engine is the better option for me. I'm a longtime owner of diesels and know their little quirks and such but have always been happy with the power they produce in pickups. Which of these engines in the liberty makes more power and will pull the hills at highway speeds without constantly downshifting? Please help.
  • sailman397sailman397 Member Posts: 15
    Chugga,

    Just curious as to your total range per tank on average. I usually get between 430 - 520 depending on city or highway.

    Will
  • chuggachugga Member Posts: 11
    Will, We get from 440 - 550 miles per fill-up .We don't do very much city driving . We have a 2400 mile trip coming up and I'm going to try for a 600 mile run . I"ll post how well we did when we get back .

    A question for anyone , what's the most you've ever put in your tank ? I filled up once and got 20.61 gallons in it
  • arachnomanarachnoman Member Posts: 1
    I have the same question, I just got one 2 days ago and love it so far. Will the older models have to comply w/ the new emissions or will they be grandfathered?
  • frostyyfrostyy Member Posts: 52
    Thanks lightnin3 for all of the good info. I will definitely take it into account when I get my vehicle....I'm sure I will enjoy the Liberty and I really appreciate the advice from current owners on this forum...who knows better than those who drive them on a daily basis...
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    When on the Hwy don't go over 100 Km's in speed .I actually found out through the Chrysler engineering that our vehicles get maximum fuel mileage at 55Mph/90 Km's.

    The one speed where the thing can't be driven... Wake up! DC
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    There is a trick to stay in 5th gear at 55 mph:
    - Get to 60 and then gently slow down without releasing the throttle pedal until you reach 1800 rpm, then put the cruise control. This works on mine but one needs to pay attention. Mileage has to be good in this boundary condition...
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    I actually found out through the Chrysler engineering that our vehicles get maximum fuel mileage at 55Mph/90 Km's.

    It can't drive 55MPH! The transmission will shift constantly along with the TC locking & unlocking. Cruise control or not, it just can't find the combination to keep the software happy. It will stay in OD and locked at 58MPH running 1700RPM. My best tank was 28.3MPG, worst tank 15.6 pulling a trailer,I have 2400 miles on mine. It sounds like DC engineering was sold a bill of goods on the software.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Yes Thats the ticket !

    Caribou1 has the trick that I do as well.

    Bring it up to speed ,then engage the cruise .
    You will be at 65 mph,in 5 th gear .
    Then using the "Decel Button" ,
    Bring your speed slowly down to 55 mph,watch you rpm's drop.
    Now you should be at cruising speed ,and where you''ll find maximum
    fuel economy.
    Oh Happy Day !
    Speak Soon
    Lightnin3
    _____________________
    Advantages to driving 55 :
    20% Fuel savings..
    Less chance of getting a ticket.
    Can sip your coffee on your way to work .
    Can relax and listen to your favorite tunes.
    Can wave at the gas guzzelling speeders ,as they pass.

    ____________________
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