Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
Lunch! My treat! LK
Go for it! LK
Push and hold the trip odometer reset then move the ignition to ON, while still holding the trip reset. You will see all the warning lights turn on~off and the gauges (RPM and Speedometer) make their revolutions. At the end where the odometer reading is located you will see any trouble codes appear if they have been stored by the ECM. :mad:
I am hoping this will be less of an issue once the ULSD is is introduced in 2006. Happy Holidays and a Merry Christmas to all on the board.
I think what dzl_lou is referring to is the method to check that all of the dash light, codes and sirens are working. :shades:
Transmission Five-speed automatic with alternate second gear ratio, second overdrive and lockup torque converter; electronically controlled.
Now if somebody that understands transmissions would explain this work of art (and frustration to some :lemon: ) I would appreciate it. Illumination on the second gear ratio and second overdrive would be helpful.
Very impressive on paper, hope they get all of the kinks worked out soon
http://www.astm.org/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/STORE/filtrexx40.cgi?U+mystore+hsax4127+-L+DIESEL- +/usr6/htdocs/astm.org/DATABASE.CART/REDLINE_PAGES/D975.htm
Copy and paste to read about the different diesel fuels.
Good luck! LK
? :confuse: Otherwise, this has been a great little vehicle.
Thanks Winter2!
Jason
Run the whole procedure by me, one more time. I've tried everything short of clicking my heels three times and saying, "there's no place like home", and all the damn odometer shows is mileage. :confuse:
- Indian
It is electronically controlled by the TCM or Transmission Control Module. This module is the heart adaptive shifting programming. The TCM depends on data from several sensors and switches to determine driver demand and the Jeep's operating conditions. Controls are in place to protect the transmission from damage from high temperatures. The TCM protects the transmission by modifying shift schedules, line pressure and converter clutch control. These controls reduce the amount of heat that is created and increase cooling of the 545RFE. The 545RFE is contained by a one-piece die-cast aluminum case. To reduce NVH, integrated into the case are ribs to increase multi-angular torsional rigidity. There are dual lubricant filters in the 545RFE. First is the customary internal main sump pan filter; second is the external canister-type pump return filter (the TBS on the TC draining while sitting).
545RFE Maintenance Recommendations
Fluid Capacity for Service fill (drop pan, change filters, refill): 6.2 Liters or 6.55 Quarts
Fluid Type: Mopar ATF +4, or any Dexron IV approved fluid )
Torque specifications:
Oil pan bolts: 11.8Nm or 8.75 Ft Lbs
Primary fluid filter screw: 4.5Nm or 3.33 Ft Lbs
Gear Ratio
1st 3.00 : 1
2nd 1.67 : 1
2nd Prime 1.50 : 1
3rd 1.00 : 1
4th 0.75 : 1
5th 0.67 : 1
Reverse 3.00 : 1
Torque Converter Up to 2.40 : 1
Jope this helps.
I my view, there is too much reliance on sensors and software. DC and others are trying to save weight, but in this case, in the wrong place (my opinion). I can live with the aluminum case but would prefer more steel and less light metal and/or plastic in the guts of the trans.
What is intriguing is that DC and VW do not advertise their LDD very much if at all. In MB commercials, the CDI is just barely mentioned. In the local paper, VW rarely mentions the TDI and Jeep only mentions the CRD if it is excluded from certain rebates.
Just read again post #515
The next killer is a german import of a diesel Toyota 4 Liters old fashion diesel + egr valve. This will be the true competitor that just needs a set of 'Snap-On' tools to tune for life.
Help please!
I recently took my jeep to the dealer for a CEL problem. At the same time, the glow plug light would go on after I started the jeep and stayed lit for a while, then it would go off. After MANY tests, they ordered a new glow plug. I had noticed that my milage was horrible, too. I was getting about 22mpg on the highway.
bcnail
I am bothered by the use of more silicon to control just about everything, but with emissions control and fuel economy being significant issues, you can understand why.
As to an old fashion diesel with the rotary distributor pump, no thank you. The complexity of the pump is worse than any computer control on the CRD. An EGR valve? Had one (or something like one) on my 1981 Isuzu diesel. Never gave me trouble.
You have given some good advice on maintaining the EGR valve and overall performance of the CRD. The EGR problem in NA is related to the rotten fuel and it's high sulfur content. In the EU, you have better fuel. I feel that once USLD arrives here in 2006, things will improve somewhat. A serious increase in cetane is also needed so that the fuel burns more cleanly leaving less carbon, etc. to gum up the works. Other thing I do is change the oil more frequently. The TBN number on the 0W-40 is too low and it has a problem with vaporization at high temps. Have switched to Amsoil 5W-40. Very low vaporization and a TBN of greater than 12. Oil changes occur every 5K miles.
The CRD rides "harder" with the new treads, but I don't know if it is due to stiffer tires, or air pressure. On the way to the store it was raining hard and (as usual) I had to put the car into full time AWD to keep from sliding around. On the way back, it was raining harder and I did not need the AWD. In addition, coming out of my street, the new tires do not spin when I accelerate.
My belief is that the designer of the ST tire should be arrested for impersonating a tire engineer and the DC person who selected those tires should be forced to ride his family around in a vehicle so equipped. In my 40+ years of driving those were the worst tires I have ever had, including the cheapos I used to buy when I was much younger.
Will let everone know if replacing the ABS module fixes the error.
I'd buy another CRD in a heartbeat. And that may happen if they offer the 0% again this year. Mine will be a year old in Feb. I think it has to be one of the first ones off the line.
Thanks!
Frank
I had the engine light come on, steady not flashing, and it went off after a few days. The code (P0501 I think) eventually went away on its own. If the problem is transient the code you have may or may not clear after a number of drive cycles. I now have an actual computer code that I am waiting to see if it will clear (U1412). I did not find this code under automotive codes, rather it is a computer specific code meaning “computer interrupt,” maybe.
I looked into buying a ScanGauge OBDII reader and queried the company about compatibility. I got the following response:
The Liberty Diesel has been reported to have some problems with part of the data stream randomly stopping. We think it is a bug in the vehicle ECU. We will probably be adding this vehicle/engine combination to our "incompatible" list soon. Sorry.
In spite of this the vehicle runs fine. My advice is to ignore the codes unless the engine light stays on for an extended period of time (more than a few drive cycles) or it is flashing. However, I would not go out on the road with the engine light on.
Thanks for the info. Very interesting about Libby's data stream being intermittant. It makes you wonder if it isn't sometimes intermittant when sending data to the engine or trans or whatever.
Fortunately for me, the engine light has never come on. That code is only displayed when I do the Off-On-thing to dispay any codes in the computer. All in all, the vehicle runs great and I've had NO problems with it. My only disappointment is, I wish the fuel economy was better. I get 22-26 mpg (depending on the road, etc) which seems to be typical. I was hoping for much better, but I guess that is not going to happen.
I would like to know how others have solved the problem of finding a hitch insert that is long enough to extend beyond the spare tire hanging on the back. The longest insert I could find still is not long enough to allow me get the hitch of the trailer down over the ball. I have had to get the local welding shop to extend my insert another 1-1/2" - It sticks out a long way and know I have to be careful with tongue weight. Anyone else have this problem?
The glowplugs are made from a ceramic material. I wonder if that piece has melted onto the head or top of the piston and is forming a hot spot so that when the fuel is injected, it causes pre-mature ignition, thus the pinging.
In addition, I do not have the nice information center overhead. I just have the odometer readout. If you have the overhead console, you may want to look up there. I don't know. However, I do know that other information is given up there instead of in the instrument cluster according to the manual. Maybe someone else could comment on this to clear things up.
Good Luck. BTW, walked back out to the Jeep this morning and tried this process before I came back to write this. It worked. Said "done" then went back to the normal mileage reading.
Boiler
Pinging is indicative of pre-mature ignition. Either the injector sequence is fouled up some how or else there is a hot spot, like a glow plug not shutting off or that piece of the original glow plug stuck some where causing the injected fuel to light off prematurely.