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2005 CRD - another reflash-forty five minutes worth.
Getting a new intercooler hose tomorrow.
Thanks to posters here and elsewhere for the heads up. Winter2, sorry you didn't catch yours in time.
Okay, vibration 101:
Where do you feel the vibration? If you feel the vibration in the steering wheel the vibration is in the front end. If the vibration is felt in the seats and or the floor it is likely in the rear.
When you say the vibration goes away when you slow down the question is how slow? Drive shaft vibration is a much higher frequency vibration than tire and wheel vibration since the drive shaft turns 3.73 times as fast as the axles. You would still feel the vibration of a drive shaft all the way down to 30 or 40 miles per hour, maybe even slower. I understood you to say the vibration went away immediately when you went to neutral. Apparently that is not so.
The only thing in a transmission that is big enough to shake a vehicle without making a lot of noise is the torque converter and that rotates pretty much at engine speed when you rev in neutral. Is there any noise with the vibration? The weight at the front of the rear driveshaft is heavy enough to vibrate a vehicle but it would have to be loose enough to rattle or knock.
Loose wheel lug nuts can cause a vibration that tends to turn into a crunch, clunk and grind as you slow down. This is not likely but easy to check.
Damaged or defective axle shaft bearings can be worse under power but tend to make noise that you can hear where it’s coming from.
A loose pinion gear nut can cause run out on the drive shaft that is worse under power but the dealer would have found that when changing the driveshaft if indeed that is what was done.
The fact that you drove another one and it did the same led me to think it was 4 cylinder diesel growl but that absolutely goes away when you switch off overdrive.
Hopefully it is something simple. Vibrations can be really annoying.
I cranked her yesterday in my garage yesterday morning and she smoked up the whole place. I drove it to work and back. Seems like a blast of smoke after it has sit for a while.
She's going in this morning. Any specific advice for the shop?
Caribou1 are you still on?
like a big hit of fuel went through the engine. (or like a shot of oil went through?) Like on my old diesel Cadi when I'd hold the throttle down to make it smoke on purpose.
not steam, not coolant.
I'll go back in the garage with an open nose
thanks!
THANKS!! Viva L'France (or is that Le'France?)
By the way, that ship will be cut into small pieces somewhere in asia. Let's hope they make good use of the metal. I came to Europe on that ship :shades:
About the Wrangler HP.'s ...
I would make a deal with the dealer to trade the rims and tires for 16 inch chrome sport rims,which are just as nice and more practical.
I would suggest changing to 235 70 16 Michelins LTX M/S,or a good all terrain tire like B.F.goodrich all terrain T/A KO ,
instead of those tires.Although they perform well they are an odd size and you would have to pay a premium of $50 to $100 more comparably to a 16 inch tire that is more common and more variety of brands at that size to choose from.
The actual diameter of the tire isn't larger so you wouldn't benefit with mileage,going to that size.
Unless you like larger rims.If you ever had to replace those rims ,they too ,are rare and are very expensive.
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3...
After installing the "new improved EGR" he took it for the obligatory test drive. When he returned, I asked how it went, he responded "not so good"! :sick:
Yesterday Alvin, reportedly spent much time on line and the phone with STAR. The outcome was that a part, the diesel counter part of a throttle body on a gasser, was ordered. Bad news is, it was ordered from the international parts center in God only knows where. I still have faith that Daimler Chrysler will get it right. On a lighter note, prior to sending the CRD to service, I went from home to a work assignment 188 miles away and got there on a quarter of a tank. The fuel economy has not suffered for the EGR problems and the thing still works well with a K&N filter! Go figure! :surprise:
You may have a bad glow plug that is not helping light off the fuel when cold and once the engine warms up the smoke disappears. Caribou's response is also appropriate. A bad injector would cause a miss, but you did not mention that in your post.
Never had that problem with either of my diesels. :confuse:
I would worry that DCC would blame the problem on the K&N filter and try to void the warranty. I was not thrilled with the K&N I had installed on my Suburban. Never again for me.
I have seen significant gain in power on my FIPK equipped '02'Liberty with V-6 and no drops (or gains!) in mpg. But once installed, all you do is clean it, re-oil it and go! It's a personal thing and all of our reality is 99% how we percieve of things.
I understand that the CRD does not use a throttle body, however, the service writer used this terminology to give me an idea of the kind of function of the part. Most folks, myself included, know what a throtle body is and a general idea where it's located on a car. She was trying to keep it simple for my very simple mind. Also, I concur with the fuel quality (more like lack of quality) and the EGR problems. The re-designed/engineered EGR will hopefully resolve some of the problems.
The CRD breathes differently and local 'diesel automobile tuning' discussions have more cons than pros. I make a rotation between the K&N, the original and the Mann filter every month.
I've been playing with this K&N for a year now, I know I have one but can never tell if it's in the plastic pouch or under the hood...
When ULSD is finally in place, I feel that EGR problems will be a thing of the past. I hope that the refiners improve/increase the cetane of #2. That would be helpful too.
Draw your own conclusion.
What I have personnally seen with aftermarket oiled filters used on TDI is that the amount of silicon present in engine oil was higher with an oiled filter than without.
No increase in power, this was verified on dyno. Vehicle was stock, no performance modifications
No increase in mpg when using panel style K&N on my TDI. This same finding has been repeated with other TDI owners using panel and cone type filters.
I did not experience a MAF failure. Others have blamed MAF failures on oiled filters. I have seen no definitive proof to confirm or refute the relationship between MAF failures and aftermarket filters.
What I do know is that I am unwilling to add contaminants to my oil with the result being no increase in power, no increase in mpg, only to save a small amount of money over the life of my vehicle by re-using the filter.
I will be using a WIX filter.
Lub. Spec. (an amsoil dlr who's working on the modified oil drain for "oldnavy" is willing to help on this) a local amsoil dlr also is eager for the donaldson business.
Did not get my new intercooler hose-wrong hose ordered. With the airbox setup, there is a fix needed to pull mine closer to the front and keep the hard fresh air inlet tube from scrubbing a ring shaped hole into the intercooler hose.
winter2 talked about a new wider clamp, my original clamps are made by Mercedes Benz and are considered good.
I did notice that my turbo bearing oil return line is starting to weep at the block. Is this another result of my using 0w40 mobil 1.
I will look at the new intercooler that was installed and see if they re-routed it.
The article about the air filter tests raised an eyebrow at this end. I am going to re-consider my purchase of a K&N air filter for the CRD. I am going to speak with my local Amsoil person and see what is available for the CRD air filter wise. I know that there are oil filters from Donaldson that are available for the CRD.
I'm planning on getting new 245/75 r16 TA/KO tires that very day, but I'll let jorjen and all know what type comes on it. Dealer said he'd recal the speedo no charge for my patience in waiting. Trying to think of what else I could negiotate from dealer - too far to go for free oil changes.
Thanks Lightnin3 for the info on expediting shipment. I may try that too, as I have no ship date estimate yet. I had emailed DC about the build hold up Mon., but no response yet - except the news from the dealer. Knowing it's finally in build, I can wait another couple weeks I guess.
I look forward to participating more on the forum with news of how mine breaks in. I appreciate all the readings and info this forum has to offer!
Will be towing it behind a motor coach. Does the mileage continue to add up on the odometer when towing 4 down?
I have been receiving conflicting info on this one.
Regards,
Jim
Regards,
Jim
As for the warranty cost: you MUST negotiate the price. When I bought my CRD last March, they offered the warranty to me at about $ 1,500 and said they NEVER deal on that price and that they were doing me a "favor" by not charging the diesel premium. When I told them I was not interested in that price, and got up to walk out, they all of a sudden changed their mind and offered the warranty at 1/3 off. At the end of the deal, I got the extended warranty for free and got them to give me free oil changes for life (2 per year). So, if you feel you need the warranty, get it, but do not pay $ 2,100. That is an outrageous price. You could go to various private insurers and do much better, I'm sure.
I did wipe everything down as best I could and will watch these two areas to see if the oil seepage returns.
People never reported oil leaks on turbo bearings before and we were all using ~15W40 grade oil if not SAE-HD40!
Several people tend to say nowdays that using 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils make turbo bearings swet. I believe this is possible when the engine is not yet warm enough because the oil pressure is there all the time.
If this is the case, I'm turning back 180 degrees :shades:
The Mechanic, with my greatest respect, (& thanks to all at Grubbs Jeep in Bedford, TX - Gerry, Corey, and the "Tech") did seemed amazed at the amount of oil in the intercooler system and even the puddle at the turbo.
The oil leak at the block was seen and a fix is on hold for now. There appears to be a smooth hole drilled into the block with a rubber washer the only engineering to keep the oil in the block-kinda like the rubber washer protecting chrysler and mb transmissions at the trans dip stick entry-that fix is the grey silicon sealant we use on the diff cover. I said jb weld it like I did with my ford 351w dip stick tube hole.
I think that what I found was the result of the spillage of oil from the ruptured intercooler hose. This is left over oil that was not cleaned off. I will still keep an eye on things for a week or two just to make sure.
My concern is with the wide viscosity range of the oil we need to use. Mobil adds viscosity index improves in a significant amount that are subject to break down over the long term. The breakdown products start coating things with a varnish that can be troublesome over the long run. I use Amsoil because their oil has little or none of this substance and the TBN is higher too.
The weepage was starting to leave a trail down the side of the block. Keep watching, rubber and plastic are temporary, water was getting into dc and mb transmissions with that rubber washer, we'll probably get the same treatment-some more liquid plastic vs a threaded connector.
The side of the block is a little oily, probably from the rupture. I may try to clean it this weekend.
I think a statement was made and later seconded that the moving vanes inside the turbo need oil vapors from the intercooler for their lubrication-true? We need some but not a liquid flow.
Teflon tape is another story. Is going away. It degrades over time. My last plumbing repair for the non sweat ftgs was old fashioned pipe dope.
It has been fun this morning-like we have our own site.
Dad was a machinist and I guess I'm second generation with a european family tree. I say that based on one of your early posts.
Take care - have to punch the clock.
Farout
The consumption of ~1/2 quart was probably normal usage.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/afl.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx
Here are the two links to each of the oils in question. I did not see 5W-40 listed fro Royal Purple.
Farout