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Check out this link CW. There are pictures of the valvola EGR elettrica (EGR valve) and the EGR cooler. If you look at some of the engine pictures you can find where the EGR valve is located on the left rear of the engine. Also, there is a good picture of the valvola a farfalla (intake throttle valve) including the cheesy little plastic gears that run the thing.
Had The egr Cleaned out once but no problems since.
It didn't really affect engine performance,just an irritating yellow indicator on the dash.
I have been using B.P. Premium Diesel when I can,and Shell Ultra diesel.
I think it helps keep things cleaner,and better mileage also.Plus "lots of power !"
This is an amazing product .I hope DCX comes out with more.
I believe with the advent of "clean Fuels"....
We'll be seeing more Diesel engines on the market,like this one.
Now I am looking forward to some preventitive maintenance.
I feel she is ready for a fuel filter change ,and switch over to my "Sport King AT" winter tires.Great for the hyway use..
Now I'll ne ready for my annual Ski trips in the mountains...
Later..
Lightnin..
You may have to wait another 10 years if you want to push this rig to the end
By then we will all be using B/W video conference on this board :shades:
There is nothing you can do to completly stop turbo lag.
The reality is the turbo can't speed up until the exhaust gets to it.
Farout
You may remember I had my EGR replaced some time ago, and I don't believe they replaced the PCM at that time. I don't see any paper documentation of it being replaced. Do you know what the part #/brand of the revised part is? I'd like to check mine to see what I have installed now. Looks like I may be due now for a new EGR flow control valve, and I would like to have my ducks in a row concerning the PCM at that time. Any information or direction is greatly appreciated!
Hellodiesel
Farout
As for the turbo lag. On my crd the turbo lag does not feel like the normal turbo lag. If I floor it from a stop it starts with about 10% power and when the power hit it will be a quick jump straight to 100% power. On every other turbo I have driven I could feel a quick rise in power not one quick jump. I is almost like the boost have built up and something quickly releases it.
Just food for thought.
nescosmo
Yes, that is the pipe to the EGR. But, I don't recall the pipe on my engine being chrome. The engine in the picture may be dressed up a bit for show. Not sure.
M 5142577AA glow new.
M 5166555AB EGR Valve new.
M 4669020 Flash new.
M 4275086AB Flash new.
Those are the flash that they did; ever since that time the CRD is just like a gas car. (all of those flash were made to the PCM) no more EGR Problems since. Hope it help.
Farout
Farout
The reflashes is what caused my problem. You can't go back to a flash that worked so well before. Once the flash is done that's it. Flashes are just a chance you take, if you and the Tec thinks you CRD will do better if done. My PCM was replaced because our fuel milage dropped to 17 right after the two flashes he did. There was a speed control that just would not stay in place on even a little hill, and it poped out. We also were getting a lot a jerky , like back and forth type on jerkyness, and the PCM stopped that as well.
We have heard from some in this forum that has had as many as 6EGR's replaced. Not one has the PCM replaced at the same time. Yark has NOT had a returm EGR after they started replacing the PCM when EGR was replaced. Think there might be a connection there?
Farout
Has anyone else had this happen as well? No wonder the few times we didn't remember to waite for the light to go out, the engine has started just fine, even in the coldest temp.
Also the ULSD sticker that is to be posted on the diesel pump, can not be put on until the ULSD in the tanks is 85% ULSD. There are some being posted here now. I see no difference in the way the CRD runs. However I am going to start using PS Booster asap.
Farout
Farout
Would like to hear the stories about why they were traded in.
The early 2000's SAAB 9-3 and Volvo S40 (turbo) both had very mild lag; you'd push it and acceleration would quickly, fairly smoothly ramp up. I believe the S40 had a "dual scroll" turbo that was supposed to reduce lag. The Volvo S60 T5 had a bit more lag, but was tuned for maximum power rather than driveability. However, our CRD has a variable nozzle turbo that is pretty much state of the art for reducing lag. At least it was until BMW came out with a turbo engine this summer.
The serial number of the original software figures is on the label of the controller. If your tech had the proper training and equipment he could save you a copy of the original version or of the one you preffered after a few trials.
The original software can be re-written into memory any time as long as DC provides it to your service technician. Any software version or patch can be considered like a picture in the memory of a digital camera.
Racing cars get different 'patches' for different tracks
Formula one cars are said to be remotely flashed during the race. They can't do this during pit stops because 4 new wheels, gasoline refill and oil level in 8 seconds is a bit too tight. I wonder if the pilot takes a nap during service :confuse:
Farout, either someone posted the link a long time back and I saved it or I found it on the VM Motori site. I don't remember.
Any change in performance with using ULSD ?
I have found a big difference in power and mileage while using the "Shell"Diesel Ultra 50 Cetane fuels or B.P supreme Diesel. instead of the regular fuel.
It's not ULSD but the next best thing.
But I also suppliment it with power service.
The power service ,
I'll pour a half bottle in the tank on a fill up,and I find this gives a big boost for trips and towing.
Speaking of boosting power..
I also have a supplier close by for "Stanadyne performance formula".Have you heard of it??
Which I find is a more potent suppliment.possibly more concentrated.
Plus I get more boost with a minimal dosage,and I can buy a years worth and save $$$'s.
The only time I get turbo lag is when I fill up with the cheap regular fuel,but then at that time I'll use Lucas formula and it seems to help performance.
Also why I think my EGR problems went away...
What are your thoughts??
Speak Soon
Lightnin...
Can anyone agree or disagree with this.
I have been using ULSD from a all new station in town and I can tell the difference my average mileage went up by 2.1 mpg and much better power and little to no smoke even at starting in this cooler weather we are getting around here. I haven't used power service since last winter I might try it again this winter but we'll see.
Farout a friend of mine knows you friend Dan at Yark's, my friend use to work at Yark' Jeep in Toledo.
Fourwheeler magazine (Dec. '06) tested their loaner 2005 CRD with homemade B100 and they stated" the engine ran poorly and even stalled on occasion" and went on to say " no richer blend than B10"...
Fourwheeler also tested a device in the 2005 CRD called a "Fitch Fuel Catalyst" (also one by Walker) and got an average of 1.2 mpg better, they said it was a "fuel polisher" what ever that is?? :confuse: Has anyone here ever heard of it or tried it?
enjoy reading all on the topic but don't have much to say.
It can be a set of 2 magnet holders that you place around the fuel line. The magnets come together when nothing sits between them.
I've tried something similar in the past with no result. For sure, if this would work we would already have it built in the filter housing or casted in the common rail itself...
When used for softening water this system is supposed to help forming smaller 'CaCO3' (calcium carbonate) crystals. For household use the magnets are often replaced by two coils you wrap along a pipe. There is a variable frequency generator that powers the coils and replaces the permanent field of the magnets. I have friends who use this since 25 years and still don't know if it really makes a difference :confuse:
I heard that if there is a 'change' in a liquid, it should only remain 'changed' for a very short period of time. This means the accessory should be placed close to the point of process:
- the diesel pump,
- the nozzle of the oil burner of a furnace,
- the inlet of a water heater.
This might be the answer to the air box problem.
Let me know what your opinion is. Thanks! LK
Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
tidester, host
DC broadly uses Bosch components as we all know.
A colleague drives the Mercedes-Benz ML 400 CDI;
even using (U)LSD his EGR components had to be replaced twice under warranty in 18 months! :sick:
Is it that bad with the Liberty diesel?
Thanks!
LK
Please don't get all teary eyed, I just thought you needed some GOOD feed back!
Farout
Called several dealers, getting any one to look at it before Thursday is very hard to do.
I am on the edge of wondering if I am joining those who have serious problems. This just happened when I started using SP Cetane booster two tanks ago, is there any the PS booster caused this?
Any ideas would be helpful.
Farout
SemperFi06
Can you describe the smell? Is it the same smell you have while re fueling at the filling station or is it a 'dry and suffocating' sensation like an absence of fresh air?
- In the first case the catalyzer would no longer be working and un burnt fuel would give you this smell. You then have grayish fumes when the engine is cold.
- In the second the EGR valve stays open. If you disconnect the cable going to the actuator of the EGR valve (not the flap) and knock on the valve body a few times there is a chance it comes back to it's closed position.
I have the impression a simple relay inserted between the controller and the EGR actuator would help. On my truck I only have a little vacuum actuator instead of the EGR solenoid connected directly to the controller, and mine draws very little current compared to what you have. It should be worth a thought because we use the same controllers and pulsed switching of an inductance with a solid state relay can sometimes be tricky and could explain why there is a need to replace the controller
I thought for sure I would would not get that dreaded bite of the EGR SNAKE! My Jeep dealer said on the phone it just could not be the EGR valve, or a code would have been seen on the dash speedometer. So.....seeing as the Jeep dealer was so sure it could not be the EGR valve, I took it to the Dodge dealer that works on loads of Dodge diesels about 55 miles away. They had the results in less than 20 minuets. They ordered the EGR valve, and I take the CRD back Thursday to have the new EGR put on. By the way the Dodge dealer found no back loge, in fact St. Louis, MO had 17 in stock! Which brings to mind that several have said they had to wait for to two weeks to get an EGR valve! And that they had to leave their CRD at the shop until it was fixed. Wonder why others have such a hard time?
I did ask how much the EGR and installation was going to cost DCX, they said a little over $500.00 US.
The EGR valve is in the open position, and it has not near as good a pick up and go as before. The cause they said was some open circuit, and I have no idea what circuit.
SO.........I am now part of the CRD-EGR gang. I really thought I was going to miss the EGR failure. By the way my CRD was built June 17, 2005, which is a late build date for the 05 CRD. But even with the EGR out we are getting 23mpg.
After talking to Yark Jeep Tec, about this he said DCX is now saying that using PS Cetane booster, or the other PS product may be the reason for early failure of the EGR, and that the Mobile 1 0-40w is what DCX is attempting to say keeps the Turbo, and other parts better lubercated. I am seriously considering going back as the Shell Rotella T oil is being discontinued and going to change to a mineral base. Has anyone heard of this?
I intend to watch this replacement so I know more about this EGR. I sure am glad this forum went back to the way it was.
Farout