Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • kphoustonkphouston Member Posts: 15
    Farout How many miles do you have on you Liberty now?
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Farout,

    It is interesting that my EGR "failed" after using 3 or 4 tanks of fuel with Cetane number improver. Coincidence? Maybe. The valve did not look dirty enough to blame the failure on either soot or fuel additive. I believe there is a story going one here that we have not heard yet. The EGR valve will turn out to be quite the little money maker for DC after all our warranties run out. Conspiracy theory? Nah, just good planning. ;)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    Could you please ask the people who replace your EGR valve to hand it over to you so that you have a chance to obtain a decent diagnostic from another person?
    It would really be nice to understand what really goes wrong such as:
    - a stuck stem,
    - a corrosion problem,
    - a short circuit,
    - a broken solenoid lead,
    - a melted connector,
    - a loose contact,
    - a defective power outlet on the controller itself in the case nothing is wrong with the valve and it's matching connector.
    This would certainly help the community appreciate the little diesel engine to it's real value and not threaten our savings.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I asked if I could have the old valve. They said no we have to send it in. Leave no evidence behind. ;)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    If 20 people get together and buy one of these defective valves for 500 USD, do you think DC goes bankrupt?
    I don't think DC is ready to face a coalition of knowledgeable owners :P
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    Do you guys think we could get rid of the egr valve once the warranty is gone?Or at least bypass it?I don't know but if the computer controls it this may be a problem,I hate to say it but welcome to the club farout.Take a look at what themech's do to get at the thing,it's a bit of an adventure,gonna be icky when we have to do it ourselves.See if they have figured out some shortcuts,and make sure they have a new gasket for the valve...
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    If we can understand what really does go wrong, then alternatives will arise amongst the community .
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    kphouston: Mileage was 24,400. But we have 24,600 miles on the CRD now, tommrow we take it infor the EGR to be replaced. I have heard of some on this forum havein less than 3,000 and the EGR goes out. None of this seems to have any rime or reason. Maybe time will bring out some answers, I hope.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    semperif06: You just might want to look into a Service Contract to extend your warranty. I got the 100,000 Max care. This is the first diesel I have ever owned, and I felt because the 05 was the first year, that odds were in DCX favor if I did not get the extended warranty. Even with the DCX Max warranty prices vary a bunch. I got mine for $1540. 3 years interest free. Check around at several dealers, maybe someone might be eager to sell you one for a really good price.
    Did you get your problem taken care of?

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    siberia: Interesting you mentionthe Cetane booster too. I talked with the tec at Yark Jeep, and he would not say the PS was the problem, but he said he would strongly advise NOT using the additives. He said this engine is designed with the 07 emissions in mind and was ready to make the changes for 07, but DCX felt it would be at to much additional cost, that sales could not support the volume needed to make it worth while. Dan said the block heaters were of little value unless it was at 0 F. There is a fuel heater with our CRD and that was all anyone should need, at least in my area that not very often gets below 18 F.
    I doubt I will use the additives again, and I am going back to the Mobile 1 0-40w soon. Dan said the 0-40w is one way that DCX and Motori have to keep the emissions problems to the least number possible. I do not know how to agree or disagree with that, so I will think about it and just see.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: The Dodge service manager, who I have known form 2002, had the tec do some cause searching, and I was told it was caused by a elecrtical circut that was stuck. That will be addressed when the EGR is replaced. I will watch the tec as much as the tec will allow me to. I will feed him some coffee and a goodie or two, maybe he will show me something usefull. This was the first VM Motori the tec had seen, and acouple other tecs were looking and saying they were imoressed. The tec has a chart with several pages he was working from along with two testing instruments. With all us looking on you would ahve thought it was a surgery going on or something that belonged in a hospital.
    They al were supprised at the turbo and said it was a good one. Now seeing as I know zip about most of this engine, everything I learn is not going to waste.
    I am interested to see what an EGR looks like, and how big it is. I can tell you There does not seem to be much if any difference in the way it drives, just smells like diesel fuel, no smoke just a smell like someone spilled some diesel fuel. That's how I smell it.
    Has diesel fuel gone up or down in price in France? Here it's $2.50 a gallon, and been this price for 3 weks now.
    Hey, I did see the Dodge Niotro yesterday. A nice 4x4 with a 3.7 equiped simular to my Jeep was $22,390.. So cheaper than the Jeep Liberty now. More back seat leg room, and more storage room in the back, but the windows have a smaller hight. Sort of looks like the Chevy HHR.

    Farout
  • hogwild1961hogwild1961 Member Posts: 26
    I was wondering if anyone has bought a aftermarket module from edge,,http://www.edgeproducts.com/..and how it performed I do alot of camper pulling around 4800lbs

    Thanks
  • ke4itnke4itn Member Posts: 12
    I bought a 2005, had multiple problems. I just traded and took a beating on the CRD Libby for a GMC 1500 Crew Cab Z71. Fooled with a lawyer and got no where. I was not happy with the CRD reliabilty or with DC customer service. I will never buy another DC product! :lemon:
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I have friends who say the same thing about Honda and Toyota. My brother refuses to ever own another Chevy product. Unfortunately, DC deserves your ire in the case of the Liberty for the lower ball joints alone.
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    I have had my 2006 Jeep Liberty 4X4 (purchased in March 2006) diesel to the dealer 4X trying to get them to get rid of a "moldy" odor coming from the a/c vents. They ran a deodorizer thru it, replaced the receiver/dryer, and have deodorized with alcohol, but nothing helps. They have had it for 3 weeks now, and say they still have not got rid of odor. Carpets or upholstery have not been replaced, or even cleaned, last time I checked with them.
    Has anyone else had similar problems?? Thanks
  • semperfi06semperfi06 Member Posts: 20
    Farout: If they are replacing your EGR valve, are they also replacing your PCM? I believe I have seen several messages stating this should be done. I did purchase a 6yr/100K maximum care service contract. I didn't think I needed 7 years, because I believe I will be over 100K before the 7th year. I have bought service contracts before, and everytime I have not used it enough to pay for the purchase price of the contract. But in the case of the 2006 Liberty CRD, and in light of all the problems that have been reported on this site, I thought it might be a wise choice this time. I have not taken our Liberty to OP Jeep yet for the late shifting transmission. Like I said, the wife drives the Liberty and just doesn't see a problem, and I am scared of having them reflash the PCM, since everything else works fine. She doesn't watch the tachometer, and doesn't count the shifts, like I tend to do. I may end up taking it in, but I haven't reached that point yet. Did you get your EGR problem taken care of?

    SemperFi
  • semperfi06semperfi06 Member Posts: 20
    I have actually seen this problem on a few vehicles that are a few years old, and after talking with the owners, have identified a common thing. The problem is that most people use the A/C or defroster, which turns on the A/C compressor in order to dry the air so it can more effectively/quickly clear the inside of the windshield when needed. Then, they turn off the engine of the vehicle which then keeps the evaporator under your dash wet from the moist air that passes through it. This allows mold to grow, just like it would in your house in the bathroom, or a room that stays wet and not allowed to fully dry. What I have learned through training and understanding of the problem is if I have been using the A/C in the vehicle, I turn the A/C control to vent only for about a minute before I turn the engine off in order to dry the evaporator. I usually do this procedure a short time before I park so I just don't sit stopped with the engine running for too long. I learned this early, and have never had a mold/odor problem in over 30 years. Hope this helps, and if I need to explain something better, please let me know.

    SemperFi
  • kphoustonkphouston Member Posts: 15
    semperfi06 I agree with you i have had many extended service plans and they have never payed off, but with this crd i would not leave home with out it.We bought this and a ford F250 power stroke and have 6yr service plans on both. If I never use either one of them its the best move i could make. I know very little about diesels and with issue both have had with EGR's on this site and the ford site i watch its well worth the investment.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout....I do not question the knowledge that Yark has but if you think and put two plus two together it does not make sense. The PS product is add to the diesel fuel how the diesel fuel get to the egr valve the PS is add only to lubricate the pumps parts and to increase the cetane of the fuel. I go to the Sprinter forum and some of the fellows have lost the fuel, high pressure pump do to lack of lubrication. The PS product do give that need it lubrication. Now EGR valve is another story, maybe i am wrong but think about it.

    Nescosmo
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou & interested others: I was able to observe the tec remove the EGR and replace the new EGR; I saw the valve that looks very much like a carbarator and the round flap valve in the center. The valve had a coat of oli that looks exactally like the oil in the the oil pan, just like the dip stick oil. The black oil on the valve could be wiped off and was not a thick and sticky stuff. For 24,682 miles it was cleaner than I expected. The part # was 14033001 Valve EGR. the code in the OBC was P1140 EGR throttle Control Failure. The tec had the job done in just less than an hour. The EGR was made in Germany, and I could not find a brand name like Bosh or anything like that. The valve is about 4" x 4" at the widest spots. I thought the EGR valve was under the air cleaner, but it was on the drivers side about 10" in front of the water/fuel filter and about 7 " down. The Valve was not easy to reach if you have large hands.The electronic part of the valve is sealed and can't be taken off to look at it at all.
    I had the PCM replaced about 6 to 8 thousand miles ago, and there was no need to replace it or reflash anything.
    The difference I noticed after the EGR was changed is the idle was smoother, and the not as rough sounding, pick up seemed better as well. I have gone 185 miles on 1/4 of a tank which is much better than before.

    Hope this helps. I hope this one lasts forever.

    Farout
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    Farout,that's good news.Did you get to see if the tech had to remove many other items to get to the valve?Under an hour is good,took the guys here a day and a half.I'm interested so that when warranty is done I can do this myself. I've been using the redline additive for months now and haven't had a problem so I don't know if this contributes to the egr issue.Take care...
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    arvaman: This was the first EGR cahnge out on aJeep Liberty CRD he had ever done. In fact he had never seen a CRD in a Jeep before mine. The removal looked like a skilled tec could do it with no problems. I am beyond the age of doing such work, and I hate doing this kind of repair, so unless you have the instructions or a book on Liberty's CRD's I would think a lot before attempting it.

    Farout
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    I was a mech for 8 years,now I only do it for fun.The stuff I worked on wasn't as high tech as the new stuff,but yo're right,with a book and proper tools it can be done,after warranty.Hope you still like the truck,I'm still a happy crd owner so far,cheers farout...
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Hey Hog, check this site out, they seem to offer quite a bit of modules.
    http://www.xtremediesel.com/index.asp
    They offer several choices of power modules. I have yet to buy one as more and more keep coming to the market for our CRD. If you do purchase one, make sure its is an upgrade able model as updates can be downloaded from the manufactures website. Ebay has a few as well, go to Ebay Motors and in the parts section Type JEEP CRD and you should see a few by SP Diesel that offer an extra 100lb ft of torque. The only thing stopping me is the fact that I'm still under warranty. But as soon at that's over, so long muffler, hello bigger turbo and 2.5" lift. Good luck, please report back to us with your choice of module and results.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Thanks to Tidester for bringing this forum back to the way it was. I feel like I've been re united with my CRD family from all around the country. :shades:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    Here are two pictures I "borrowed" on the web.

    This is the flow metering valve (that looks like a carb):
    image

    This one is the EGR valve that collects exhaust gas, has the cooling circuit and the solenoid:
    image

    Is it the first object that was changed on your truck?
  • ranger0275ranger0275 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a problem with a leaking sunroof? I bought a new 2006 sport 65 liberty, and I will be taking it in again for it's 3rd repair on the sunroof. Water leaks in on both sides at the front doors, and in the fuse box.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, I forgot to give you a sketch of where the components are located:

    image

    The air flow control valve is looking towards the intercooler (front of the truck).
    Does this help you identify the component that was replaced?
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout... I have a few ?. Did the tech had to drain the coolant or only a bit came out when he disconnect the pipe. do you have a provent for your ccv., if you don't that explain the oil in the EGR. also in the cd code #p1140 is for the vaccum reservoir solenoid. is there a code with the same # for the EGR. could you clear the way for me. Thanks

    Nescosmo.
  • rangerrodrangerrod Member Posts: 1
    SemperFi,

    I saw your post about the "late shifting transmission." Is this the TCM reprogram recall that came out for the 2006 CRD? Our 2006 CRD has been running great with no problems (knock on wood) and it has a little over 6K miles. I too am reluctant to take it in fearing it may come back with a problem.

    RangerRod

    "Rangers Lead the Way"
  • justmecwjustmecw Member Posts: 20
    I have a module from SP diesel. It can not be upgraded from a download. to upgrade you have to send in your old one and they will send you the upgraded model for the difference in price between the two. It does make a noticable increase in power and does not change the milage for the good or bad. It is very easy to install and to take off when taking it in for service so they have no idea I have been using it.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: How you can find these photos is beyond me, you are definitely a great asset to the forum. The first photo was what was replaced. What is the second one. In the first one the circular flap was clean enough to see it was silverish metal, basically pretty clean, the side walls had a good coating of black oil, but is was not dripping.
    Clue me in, what is all these pictures about?

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Yes, the part you have the arrow pointing to that says EGR air flow valve. On the dealer invoice the part is listed "5142799-AA Valve EGR 14033001 and 5142806-AA T/Body EG 14033001 and 5142613-AA Gasket EG 9001004" that's everything listed as parts. I can tell you the space was tight, and not met for big hands. So by your drawing and what I have said, was it the EGR that everyone else is having problems with? Ge, if it was not the EGR valve, and just a flow control, that means the EGR Valve is still going strong? Right? How with this valve stuck open does this effect everything else? I am really confused now. Do you agree that the Mobile 1 0-40 is a better choice over the Shell Rotella T 5-40w? And what would you do when the only Rotella oil will be the mineral type of oil? The dropping of the Synthetic Rotella 5-40w will be in late March or early April. The Shell plant would only say it exceeds the requirements of DCX. How this can be true when DCX says Synthetic oil only? Remembering that I have a 100,000 mile warranty, I don't want to mess that warranty up, in any way. If this engine proves to be a good one, after 100,000 miles then all repair is up to me.
    The 06 gas Liberty we got for our daughter, has now 4,900 miles on it, I put Mobil 1 5-30w in it, and it seems a little quietiter. I will change oil in it every 6,000 miles. It is nice to compare the two liberties, and I can see real quick what the differences are. One thing that I notice is how little it takes to make the 3.7 to move. The 2.8 is easier to have more control in slow speeds. I believe the 2.8 would prove to be faster in a short race, and maybe the 2.8 has a longer range for the passing gear to get into. That might also be because of the 545 RFE transmission. I wonder why the 545 RFE is not with the 3.7? The Commander 3.7 has the 545 RFE in it. Never drove one, so I don't know how it drives.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: After looking at Caribou1' pictures, what the tec called the "EGR valve" I think it was the Control valve. With what you have said , and I seem to recall others mentioning about the coolant, it does not seem to be the actual EGR valve, but rather the valve before the EGR. Would you not agree? If the EGR is still good than I think that would mean what I have been doing is OK? Does this make the way a little clearer?

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Rangerrod: I am not a good person to tell you much, but.....There is a ECM, a PCM, a TCM and several other ?cm's I think. I do know that everything on this CRD Liberty is totally controlled by computers, and even some of the computers are controlled by some other computer monitor. I have had about 6 re-flashes, two messed mine up so much they replaced the PCM, so the program would be an earlier one that worked better. I have been told that there is now a re-flash that does that instead of having to change the PCM. My shift points were really out of wack, after the PCM change that was corrected.
    This CRD seems to be a tough engine, but,..... this is DCX's first totally computer controlled power, transmission, and emissions, and what ever you can imagine.
    Even the speed control is computer controlled, rather than servo controlled. (which I like the servo type much better)
    I hope this helps a little bit, and welcome to the forum.

    Farout
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    THANKS Jim or the useful feedback...I am planning to get a module I'll let u know when I do
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    Thanks..i believe i am going to try the module from edge..does the module from SP have muiti stage..and how are you using yours..thanks
  • fattblockfattblock Member Posts: 3
    I've got same problem on my 06 CRD. What a piece of CRAP. It's my 4th jeep and i'm so pissed off w/ JEEP and dealer(LEITH AUTO-PARK, Cary N.C.)Mines been down for a month and got no help and have 100k warranty.
    Do not buy a diesel!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout,
    I think we are getting a better view of the symptom now.
    This fresh air valve allowing the mixture with exhaust gasses seems to be the common issue on both continents. All manufacturers using this equipment face the same risk.

    The valve could get mechanically stuck or delayed in it's response to the controller by the viscous compound of oil fumes and soot that can harden with time and perhaps vary with temperature.

    - Oil leaking from the turbo bearing is common when considered individually.
    - EGR valves on diesels are also common and reliable when operating individually and not controlled systematically by an emission limitating system. They work in a harsh environment and are designed for the purpose.

    The new configuration where oil plus soot plus an intolerant controller can easily trigger the engine malfunction light. The variable viscosity of the compound could also explain why it's so difficult to get a clean cut incident that anyone can diagnose.

    Now concerning oil, I can not say one make is better than another as long as they are comply to the specs (MB229.3). Going back roughly 40 years ago this was a completely different story:
    White Rose, Shell and other lubricants from major refiners were of one kind; oil sold by discount stores seemed to come from another world. :sick: :sick:

    The more I think about this mixing valve, the more I get the impression a few people should try to clean it with gasoline and a brush, then report if any success. This component is the only difference there is between my truck and yours. I don't have this flap :shades:
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    SP, that's the one I have had my eye on for sometime. The model I have come across:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SP-DIESEL-05-06-JEEP-LIBERTY-90-HP-MODULE_W0Q- QitemZ120055029980QQihZ002QQcategoryZ33597QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
    Claims 90hp and 150 lb ft of torque increase. Is this the one you have?
  • vacrdvacrd Member Posts: 4
    I am getting ready to do my first oil change on my 06 CRD. Looks like Oil filter is easy to take off. Where is the drain plug located in relationship to the oil filer?
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1.... Ever since I install the Provent 200 to my system the mixing valve flap and components are very clean, air hoses are brite red with no oil trace. I thought that the turbo oil did not mix with the air fresh booster only the ccv from the engine. Is there any way the we can removed the flapper from the air mixing valve and remove the flapper from the EGR valve without removing the sensor that they have?. If the engine get full fresh air will it get too hot and not work properly? if it get too much exhaust wil the cool temp make the engine work inproperlly?. Why is that the Sprinter that have the mercedes 2.7 CDI, the EGR valve is not an issue. I like your comment.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, if you remove the flap of the air flow control valve you have to block or limit the flow of exhaust gas going into the intake manifold. This would be the equivalent to what I have on mine:
    -the stainless steel pipe you can observe (fixed with a spherical collar) connects to the intake manifold from the bottom and goes to the EGR valve located on the other side of the engine.

    image

    You can see that it was already done like this on the model year 2003 :shades:

    When you get too much fresh air, you are in a leaner mixture condition. Nothing to worry about for the engine but you are breaking the law :sick:

    I have not yet taken time to look at the 2.7 CDI. I would like to understand how to profit from today's CRD just in case someone runs into me and I need a replacement ;)
  • semperfi06semperfi06 Member Posts: 20
    RangerRod: I haven't received a recall notice on anything yet, but was just stating how our transmission was shifting. I believe they can reprogram our transmissions to shift into the highest ratio at a lower speed than 63 MPH, but I am not yet to the point I want to take it to the dealer for service for only this problem. In 11K, this is the only way we have ever shifted, so it seems normal for this vehicle. Maybe it was a way Jeep used to keep too much torque from the engine from being applied to the transmission at what they considered too low of a RPM. But I would like to drive at 55 MPH in the highest ratio.

    SemperFi
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    http://www.dieseltuning.com/index_eng.html

    This looks like a good one, Check it out too.

    LK :)
  • kphoustonkphouston Member Posts: 15
    The drain plug is located about 8 to 10 inches behind the oil filter if you are going in from the passenger side looking to the driver side. I completed my first change this weekend. If i remember right its 13/16 wrench.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    KP... The drain plug is 8MM wrench and the copper ring is motormite-oil tite- part#65273 ( 5/8 or M14 )
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Jimhemi..... Here are some module for you to look at:
    Digi CR -about $539.00
    Predetor about $499.00
    Optima about $15.00
    Race Accelerator about $59.00
    Power Box about $199.00
    Ts Performance MP-8(dr-2030) about $379.00
    and there are some others that I can't remember.
    The best are Digi CR, Predetor and TS Performance.

    Nescosmo...
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Jimmhemi... Also some of this Module give code error (engine light come on). The one that i mention do not give you error code light. (Predetor, Digi CR and Ts Performance)

    Nescosmo
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The valve you are had problems with is the EGR Flow Control Valve. It went bad on mine (would not close) and causes the MIL. I was quoted $520 for that one little piece + installation.
    What I have done is disconnect the actual EGR valve, as the CRD is very doggy off the line & blows lots of smoke. I think the EGR is on full trying to get the desired flow.
    It now drives like a car off the line, with the turbo kick.
    My last tank was 27+ using ULSD. The only annoyance is the MIL on all the time.
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