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Chevy S10 Owner Reviews
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Comments
Ryan
This past June, had to buy a new truck when my 1970 El Camino SS was rear-ended by a woman in a Nissan Maxima reading a billboard @ 50MPH instead of driving while I was sitting at a red light. Totaled a truck I had worked on for over two years to restore in the blink of an eye, and probably would have killed me if I didn't have my seat belt on. Ouch!
Remembered the Ranger experience and this time got a new 2000 S-10 with the V-6, automatic, extended cab with LS trim and all the bells and whistles. At the time, I bought the S-10 for three reasons; price, tow rating and I personally think the new Ranger interiors look as if they were designed by the same guy that did bus and subway interiors. The S-10 had some HUGE rebates at the time, and was rated to pull 5,200 pounds with the 4.3L engine. The Ranger was close in price and tow rating with the 4.0L engine, but couldn't find one--most dealers only ordered the 3.0L V-6 or the 4 cylinder.
Nearly seven months and about 10,000 miles later--WOW!!! Drives great, lots of punch off the line, QUIET, QUIET, QUIET cab, not a hint of trouble, and will haul or pull anything I've thrown at it so far, including my 24' travel trailer, 15 bags of concrete @ 80 lbs each (was overloaded but didn't have to go far and with the HD suspension, handled the load just fine).
I'm 6'3" and hate getting in most cars--feel like I have to fold up like a pocket knife to keep from hitting my head or knees. This thing is the most comfortable vehicle I've owned in years. My buddy at work owns a '96 Dodge Dakota. The first words out of his mouth when he rode in it was how much smoother and quieter it was than his Dodge.
If you don't absolutely need a full-size truck, BUY THE S-10!!! I will own mine for years, as long as that woman in the Maxima doesn't hit me again.
If my story doesn't convince you, then consider this...my truck has a higher TRADE-IN value right now than what I paid for it six months ago!
Do you have a read on the highway mileage yet? Is the back seat really usable? I have two small kids, both in car seats, and would like to know whether you'd recommend this truck under those conditions (i.e. are there rear child-seat tether points available). Any problems yet?
My other choice is an Escape, but would rather go with the CC, for various reasons. Thanks.
I have not checked out the gas mileage yet. The back seat is the same size as the blazer. It is a standard size not small like jumper seats. Adults fit good but I have not taken it on a real long trip yet with an adult passenger in the rear. The adult passengers that did ride in it said they had enough room. For kids it is perfect. There are 2 shoulder strap type seat belts and one lap belt for a middle person. I am not sure about the tethers you are talking about since the kids I haul are 11 and 5, plus a golden retriever! People that have seen the back seat area are impressed with the amount of room it has.
I would definitely look at one before you buy the escape. The only problem was that when it came in it did not have the middle lap belt for the rear passenger so had to wait a few days till they got another one in so they could get the belt out of that one. They did not want to order a belt without knowing what the part really was that they needed. Other than that there have been no problems. I am even getting a fiberglass lid put on in 2 days that I ordered. It is a great truck!
Where did you go for the fiberglass cover? Is this an aftermarket, or GM? How much did this set you back (if you don't mind me asking)? I also want to check into the running boards myself, with the hope that it will ease my concern for the paint when knocking off snowy boots.
For what it's worth, my Dad has a '98 Sonoma, and aside from an uncanny ability to keep breaking the 3rd door handle, he's been quite satisfied with his choice. Another reason for me to look at the GM.
Other after market products are soon to be available if not already. Although most of the vehicle is similar to either the blazer or an extended cab. The chasis is the same as the extended cab.
Will let you know about gas mileage and hopefully there will not be any problems to report!
If this is the norm, I'm going to be forced to go for the Escape. I don't want to, I've got the GM points, as well as a supplier discount on GMs, not to mention my preference for a pickup over an SUV.
Please, somebody give me some hope!
Hans
Anyway, I digress... Make sure you document everything you do with the dealership and corporate (the number is in your booklet). Take it from me. I've had every problem mentioned on this board and others, but the lemon laws in my state (AZ) require me to have the same problem (not numerous problems) 5 or more times. How slanted is that in the dealers' favor? Document, document, document. And don't take no for an answer. Stay on them. And yes, 10 city and 11.5 highway is beyond pathetic! Good luck, Brutha!
All you have to do is pop the hood and locate the fuse relay box. It is on the driver's side, right next to the air cleaner assembly. Turn the thumb screw to free the cover and lift it up. On the inside of the cover you'll see a diagram of all the fuses and relays. One will be labeled DRL (in many cases it is the only black relay). Gently pull it out. There will be 5 pins on the bottom of the relay. Find the one labeled 87a and cut it off using wire cutters. Plug the relay back in. You're done.
I've noticed that on some of the newer S-10s GM changed the numbering system on the bottom of the DRL relay (the pins are labeled 1-5 now instead of 86, 87, 87a, etc). In this case all you have to do is pull another relay of the same size and compare to see which pin (1-5) corresponds to 87a. I think GM did this because people figured out which one to clip.
As a final note, you can't just remove the whole DRL relay. Otherwise, your left headlight won't work. Just cut off the one pin.
odometer turned 410,000 miles and I
have had to fix nothing but items
that come with normal wear and tear.
I also have a 95 cavalier that is
the biggest piece of junk that I
have ever owned in my life.You name
it I have had to fix it.
I finally checked my mpg and I got 15 for city. That is exactly what the sticker states it should get so I am satisfied with that. I have not checked highway miles since I don't drive enough on them. I am not concerned about the low gas mileage since I don't drive that much anyway, roughly 4,000 miles/year. Of course that may change since I like this truck so much!
Thanks. I still haven't decided on which way to go yet (good thing I'm not planning anything until fall). Myself, I do 95% of my driving on the highway (or highway like -- I live in the sticks) and do about 20K per year. Even if I got 18 (as the sticker claims), that's a pretty big drop from the 30 I get in my '95 Sidekick. Decisions, decisions...
I was wondering which engine my s10 has. When it was purchased used, I was told it was the high output model. What type of power does this engine produce? Looking at other websites, the Z code TBI engine (according to the VIN number) looks like it only has 155hp and 235 ft/lbs of torque. Is this the high output engine??? Also, like another user, the tranny or engine rattles when it is shut off. If I depress the clutch and turn it off, the noise doesn't occur...any suggestions? Mine has 115k miles and runs well, around 22-23mpg on the highway with AC blasting at 80mph. The truck seems to be one of the best ones that I've owned.
BJ
Regarding mileage, around towm 19+ highway 23+. One time on the highway I drove at 55 to 60 for a full tank and averaged 27mpg. Winter gas (RI) always causes a drop in mileage on all my vehicles. My truck has been virtually maintenance free except for the recalls.
I leased this truck in April of 98. It now has 31,800 mi on it and in my opinion does not run any different from the first day I drove it.
The only problem I have had with it was a clunking noise under hard acceleration. This occurred at about 8k mi. The dealer said the heater core was not installed properly so they replaced it and the noise went away.
I just replaced the front brake pads this past weekend because they were just starting to squeak.
They still had 1/8 in of pad left which is as low as I will let a pad get.
I was pretty impressed at getting that much use out of a set of front pads. Usually you only get about 20k mi.
My specific likes about the truck are as follows:
Smooth running engine, fairly comfortable seats, excellent sound system came with the truck, split sun visor set up, always on running lights, automatic head lights, decent gas mileage (23mpg), excellent visibility with the large side mirrors, excellent tread life on the goodyear tires that came with the truck (1/4 in tread left to wear markers after 31,800 mi).
My dislikes are:
Slight jerkiness when shifting between 1st and 2nd gear when cold. Easily loses traction on wet surfaces due to being rear wheel drive. Not quit enough storage room inside the cab (king cab would have been a better buy).
Overall I have been happy with this vehicle and would recommend it to anyone.
I have always been a chrysler owner in the past but I expect my next vehicle to be another chevrolet (either a malibu or impala).
i need a catback exhaust since the old one has a hole in it...any tips? and also, it has Throttle Body Injection. whats the diff tween that and fuel injection? can you explain? and can i get a FI engine for it later and install it with minimum effort? thanks.
Port injection uses one fuel injector for every cylinder, and sometimes 2 with a DOHC setup.
Only 20k ??? If I only got 20,000 miles out of
a set of brake pads, I'd be highly upset!!!
Last time I checked, most pads come with metal
tabs that begin to rub against the rotors and
cause a screeching sound which indicates that
the pads need replacing. I've got almost
128,000 miles on my factory pads, and they're
still in good shape. I plan to replace all
the pads/linings once the weather warms up...
I changed the pads on my wife's '97 Plymouth
Breeze at 75k, and they were fine, too. And
that's a front wheel drive car, with an automatic
transmission, which I would suspect to be harder on
front brakes than a rear-wheel drive, 5-speed
truck that weighs about 800 pounds less...
Preventive maintenance is one thing, but I think
you might have gone a little too much on the
safe side with your brake service...JMO...
I would guess that must be all highway miles since mine was all city.
The pads I had did have the little tabs that start screeching when they hit the rotors.
I had just started to hear that and that is why I checked the pads.
I have never heard of anyone getting more than 30k out of a set of front pads on a new vehicle.
I have achieved more life out of semi metallic replacement pads.(but they do cause more wear on the rotors)
I have always seen that the rear shoes on drum brakes consistently get over 100k before they need changing.
I don't think changing pads at 1/8 in, that were originally 3/4 in thick when new, is being overly safe. I guess if you want to wait until the rivets dig into the rotors then that is up to you.
I don't make a habit of relying on the metal tabs to squeal because they don't always work.
Having to replace rotors in the past has shown me that.
And in case your now thinking that I must ride my brakes (2 foot driving), that is not the case and never has been.
After having driven for over 25 years and doing all my own repair work (except for re building transmissions) I kinda feel that I know a little about proper maintainance on a car.
The following is an excerpt from an article written by a Volvo service manager.
"Exceptional brake wear on a BMW or Volvo is 20,000 to 30,000 miles with 10,000 to 15,000 miles being very common."
Bottom line is that brake life depends on the driving conditions and pad material. The more stop and go and the softer the material the shorter the life of the pad. (these pads will also be quiter and have a lot of dust which is typical of original equipment brakes)
Go to the link below for a decent article on brake materials from MotorAge Magazine.
http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m3102/9_118/55851484/p1/article.jhtml?term=
A 97 plymouth breeze has a curb weight of about 2900 lbs.
A 98 Chevy S10 weighs in at about 3100 lbs.
Where is this 800 lbs you are referring to.
The truck is also an automatic not a standard.
wife would shoot me !!! (actually, she drives
a four-person car pool everyday...)
Yes, almost all of my miles are on the highway.
And I do take advantage of downshifting when I
am decelerating, which should increase brake
pad life.
It's been my experience that rear brake linings
can last twice as long as front pads, but this
isn't always the case, because the rear shoes
wore out on my wife's car before the front pads
did...
I too have been driving and servicing my own
vehicles since 1973. And driving style does
make a difference with the way any part performs,
not just brakes. I drove a 1974 Camaro for so
long that I began to baby it, and that driving
style has continued with me to this day. I don't
have to be the first car off the line at a red
light, I don't have to be the first car in line
on a two lane road, and I don't have to worry
about being 5 minutes late to work because I
have a 3 and 1/2 hour arrival window.
I also owned a 1989 Mazda B2200 that I put over
225,000 miles on, all with the same clutch. I've
had good luck with all of my vehicles so far, and
this S-10 I have has been OK by me, too.
By no means did I want to come across like I was
insulting your experience or intelligence...it
still strikes me as strange that front pads need
to replaced as often as windshield wipers...we
obviously have differing opinions on this topic,
as well as different experiences...
I've never worn a pad/lining down to the rivets,
and I've also never had to have a drum or rotor
replaced on any car that I or my wife has driven.
I also think that resurfacing both drums and
rotors is simply a way for repair shops to make
an easy buck, because many of them will do all
they can to convince you that the part is out
of spec and must be replaced.
Good luck with your truck. And after all of this
discussion, thanks for sharing your brake life
experience with us/me...I think I'll go have
another look at my brake pads sooner than later...
around in their forum looking for any comments
related to brakes....some mentioned the lack of
mileage they received, but one person posted
almost the same results that I did...105,000
miles with a manual transmission....so, as I
hope we both can agree, it's not what you drive,
it's how it's driven...
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1994/chevrolet/
However, a co-worker of mine only got 20k out of his brake pads on his 99 S-10.
I think driving style makes all the difference.
i put 3,000 miles a month on it and if you keep up the maintenance you should have no problem with getting over 200k on it. ive never owned a chevy before this, ive had mazda and ford trucks, ill never change again. this summer i plan on buying a 2001 model 4.3 liter and keeping the one i have.
The 82 gave me better gas mileage - go figure!, but I like the nicer interior (LS) in the 99.
The only GRIPE I have with it is these automatic headlights combined with daytime running lights - there's no way to shut them off at night without turning the ignition (and the engine) off. I'm sure there's a way to get around this little "feature" - but I haven't found it yet.
As far as the traction problem goes - I just buy several sacks of sand and leave them in the bed during the winter months! (my first aftermarket purchase was a bed liner!)
2. Is there any other relatively inexpensive changes that can be made to the 4.3l V-6 for better mileage and performance? I'm looking at K&N filter, new plugs etc.
3. Is there a speed limiter on this engine? I hope not. If there is, is there anyway around it? I told a friend that owns an 01 Maxima that I was going to blow his doors of at the track .
Enough questions, now my experience.
I purchased a 99 S-10 ext. cab, V6, 5spd, 3rd door, LS trim. I've always wanted a sport truck. I love the power and feel the truck has. I traded in my 95 Sonoma 4cyl. This truck had its problems (head gasket leak, lifters rattling al the time, and hesitation in lower part of power band) but I still loved to drive it. I replaced the head and gasket hoping to kill two birds with one stone, but no such luck. It did get great gas mileage (26-29 mpg highway) but no power in 5th with the AC on.
Thanks in advance.
John
From my own experience, I own a 97 S-10 extended cab 4X4 LS trim, with the 262ci V6 vortec engine and auto trans. The truck is mainly stock. I get between 10-15 M.P.G. while 95% of my driving is city. The trucks curb weight is about 3700lbs., though it looks alot lighter. I average about 15-25K on the front pads, which isn't too bad and from what alot of people tell me it rides alot smoother than the Ford or Dodge mini pickup's. I due plan to change over the exhaust, intake, ignition, and a couple of other pieces that I can't quite remember at this time.
In response to edwin76, shutting off the daytime running lamps is a matter of pulling a fuse, as far as the auto lights, Im not sure because I don't have that problem with the 97, but it can probably be resolved the same way.
In response to dcnbill from my own personal experience, engine additives are a bad idea unless your looking to clean something out, other wise stick to a high quality motor oil. For a faster truck, power usally comes with a big price. How deep is your wallet? Speed limiter can removed or at least brought up using the HYPERTECH POWER PROGRAMER which just plugs right into the service port under the dash. This little item carries a price tag between $300-$350 depending on where you pick it up. It also has a bunch of other little nifty settings that can improve mileage and performance, check it out!
Any way gotta go for now, be post'in later!!!
1. I use slick 50 and Mobil 1 synthetic. I haven't noticed any differences, but if nothing else slick 50 offers a free 100,000 mile engine warranty.
2. There really is no such thing as cheap horsepower. K&N is your best bet. You could also get a lower temp thermostat or platinum spark plugs & wires. After that, you could go the after-cat exhaust route or the Hypertech programmer route, but now your talking hundreds of dollars.
3. The speed should be limited to 95mph. Hypertech programmer can defeat this limit.
Brad
Try an exhaust system like cat back or headers for more power.
Hope you have posi!!