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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems



  • Hi:

    My 2003 Denali sat (unfortunately) for approximately 2+ years (maybe 2 years, 3 months) without moving. It was recently towed (flatbed) and then towed again to a mechanic my father (not me) has been going to for years.

    I asked him to replace the battery (which I provided) as well as make sure it was ready to run after sitting for 2+ years. He did not mention lubing the o-rings or priming the cylinders (cranking without ignition) before, draining the 2+ year-old gas, etc., etc., ... which had me feeling dubious about his expertise and/or "caring" from the get go.

    Anyway, he came back to me a couple of days later saying that the fuel lines were corroded and it is leaking all over the place. I found that quite hard to believe considering the Denali had ZERO leaks (not a spot below it from where it was towed -- either time). I mentioned this to him and he said the stuff their adding to the salt during the winter has caused a great number of these to show up over the last year or two. The thing is, again this car sat (part of that time in a driveway) and was not driven in the snow, and the real kicker is, my area has seen little to no snow over the last two years.

    So am I just out of my league here, or is he potentially full of it? I would really appreciate any insight someone with knowledge in this area could share.

  • Let me start by saying, I LOVE MY RIG! I have had ZERO problems with it after buying new off the dealer lot. Two weeks ago, while driving home, I noticed my dash was rattling. When I looked, I had a 10" crack just above the instrument panel. How could this be? I condition my dash on a routine basis and use a sun shade. I jumped on the interent to try and find a solution and little did I know, this is a common defect as there is one internet blog site after the next about this issue. In researching, I learned that GM will take care of the issue with no money out of the cosumers pocket if you go the route of filing a claim. Several sites recommended reaching out to (IM NOT ALLOWED TO SAY) as he seemed to be able to get things done for the consumer. I emailed (THAT GUY) and he quickly assisted by "escalating" my claim to a regional specialist by the name of (ANOTHER GUY). (THE OTHER GUY) asked me to take my rig into (A REGIONAL CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP) to have it looked at. When I arrived at the dealership, (YET ANOTHER GUY) assisted me. I didn't tell him I had a claim pending. He said the crack was a common issue with the 2007 GMC / Chevrolet SUV's and he would charge me $500 to fix it. I recontacted (THE FIRST OTHER GUY) and told him what (THE SECOND OTHER GUY) had told me. (THE FIRST OTHER GUY) said he would call (THE SECOND OTHER GUY) and get back with me on Monday (THE FIRST OTHER GUY made it sound as if he was going to make everything right). On Monday, I got a call from (A FEMALE) (Calling on behalf of THE FIRST OTHER GUY). (THE FEMALE) was excited to tell me that they had settled my claim and I was only going to have to pay $500 to get my dash repaired. HUH? When I began to question (THE FEMALE ) about why I would have to pay money out of pocket for what was obvioulsy a documented defective cosmetic part, she was very far from professional. I could not believe that as a long time GM customer, I could not get this part covererd. I found out GM keeps files on every consumer: from the car you buy, every service you get and every complaint you lodge. I have bought every GM product I own new from the dealer. I have a mechanic in the fmaily who services my cars regularly and I have never filed a previous complaint. But apparantly, I'm not a loyal customer, so they would not fix the crack for free. So, to make this long story short, I could not be more dissapointed in GM. I didn't ask for this to happen, but since it did, I just wanted it fixed. I'm off my soapbox...
  • I bought my Yukon brand new, less than 200 miles when delivered to me. Now 2 years later and 25,000 miles it is a dog. Start up in the morning, drives just fine. But when the outside temperatures hover around 100 degrees and if I have been driving it for more than an hour it becomes a dog. Dangerous too, cannot accellerate fast enough to get out into traffic or cross an intersection. Taken it to the Chevy dealer here twice, no computer notifications or faults. Yes we knew that going in for the 2nd visit. By the way that is exactly where my Yukon is as I type this, and the service manager just called and said "we cannot find anything wrong". Hello, he and I had discussed the fact that some times intermitent problems dont record on the computer. I think some service techs get too reliant on their computer reads and forget to use good old common sense. There is something wrong with this what do I do, get rid of it because they cannot fix it?
    Anyone else had this problem?????
  • 55chevyguy,

    We're sorry that you're having some elusive difficulties with your Yukon. If you would like for us to check into this further with your dealership, please email more details to us us at including: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Hello, I am new to the forums so I apologize if this question is a recurring one. I am looking at a 2007 Yukon Denali XL with the 6.2L V8 SFI. The vehicle has 104,000 miles. I have just started reading about oil issues with the 2007's. Does anyone know if this applies to the engine size that I am looking at? Are there any other issues with the 2007's that I should be aware of? The seller provided a CarFax. Do you think the GMC dealership where it has been serviced would talk to me about it and give me the straight scoop on it? Is there a way I can run the VIN to see if this vehicle has had problems?

    Thanks in advance!
  • I have an 05 Yukon xl. The low beam lamp locking ring is broken. Thus the high beam lamp will fall out. This is the only piece on the entire assembly that is held on with screws. Junk yards only have complete units and dealers do not sell this piece. A new assembly is $350.00. Not worth buying for this one flange. Is there anyone who sells this one part?
  • Breezily.
    I have an 05 as well.. The air condenser sweats when running and the condensation is what is dripping.. This is completely normal. As long as your air is cold and it is humid outside then this will occurs.
    You may see this from the rear as well if you run the back AC often.
  • I had the same problem with my 05. After a new alternator and battery, no change. I then noticed I was not hearing the self leveling system adjust at the rear when a load was placed to tow. As it turned out the air bag leveling motor in the back was bad and kept engaging/ disengaging. This was making the battery meter fluctuate. Once repaired problem with the meter resolved.
    Hope this helps.
  • i have the same problem and the dealer said to replace the battery so i did . now the dealer wants to replace the fuel pump for $700. im kinda skeptical. i really dont want to rebuild the entire vehicle but dont know what else to do. it doesnt act up every time just occasionally. this is a very expensive vehicle that shouldnt be treating me this way. guess my next one will be a ford!
  • Good morning batesboy1981,

    If you would like for us to check in on the situation with your dealership, please send us an email at with more details (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Did you ever find the root cause of this problem? I'm having the same issue. It's shut down on me twice in the last 3 months.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251

    Have you had this checked into by your dealership? If so we're available to follow up on your appointment with them. Let us know! We can be contacted at (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, a summary of the situation, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • dothedoodothedoo Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    I went from a 99 Chevy Suburban to a 2003 Yukon and it's funny the similarities are on issues. The Burb lost most of it's illumination before I trade it in but I have a bad vibration in the rear when towing, but never felt the vibration under regular driving.
    Now for the 2003 Yukon. Mirrors do not adjust anymore, they will fold in and out but that is it, Passenger mirror does not defrost nor dim at night. Driver side does defrost and dim. Driver seat heat stopped working. Driver seat controls for fwd and back now work in reverse. So, to move the seat forward, you have the push the power seat button back etc.
    I see there is a recall on my cluster because my gear selector and Tachometer do not light up. My Speedometer works 75% of the time. I use a Garmin GPS to monitor the correct speed.
    Last week I had the transfer case rebuilt (pump vibrated a hole through the rear casing which is known for 2001-2006 trucks and SUVs). show even has a video out showing how the problems occurs and GM knew that is why the 2007 transfer case was redesigned... I also had the rear u-joints on the axle replaced do to vibration coming from the rear. Then I had the rear axle balance. I towed a boat today (3500-4000 lbs) which is the first real load since the transfer case, u-joints and axle were fixed and the truck vibrates like crazy from 35 mph up to 70 mph. I had the trailer/tow on and off to test and I was in 2 wheel drive. This is the same vibration I had on the 99' Suburban. I have 150,000 miles on the Yukon and we do not beat on this vehicle. We use to tow boats, snowmobiles and our 3 kids and 2 dogs. But why so many problems? Seriously? Any input on the mirror issues, the driver seat heater and/or severe vibration under load? We took a ride tonight with the whole family inside and the vibration is not there....I am really stump, do I have a lemon? :lemon:
  • I have a 2004 GMC Yukon 4x4 recently I have a problem that when I am parking or turning slowly or backing up slowly. When I turn the wheel it feels like my front brakes are coming on and stopping me. When I turn the wheel all the way to back up or going forward to park the truck comes to a complete stop unless I gun it and power threw it, as soon as I straighten the steering wheel it rolls forward like normal without any gas. Can’t figure what it could be a ABS sensor or some other sensor. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE
  • If you have a four wheel drive, the four wheel drive is engaged. Make sure you're only in 2 wheel drive when you're on the pavement. To trouble shoot it, go out on a dirt road & duplicate the problem. It probably won't need any gas on a dirt road because the front wheels will give with the turning.
  • Did you find out what is was. I have the same problem on my 2002. I have replaced the cv shafts and axle on the front?
  • Never did find what was causing the noise. Replaced both front axles and changed all the fluids in front diff and transfer case but no change. Sold it last fall. Felt like it was in front diff. Good luck finding a reasonable priced solution to your problem.
  • I have experienced (5 times to be exact) problems with my GMC Denali just cutting off. I was driving down the freeway at the check stablitrac light flashed, along with the warning light, and the reduced engine light. The first time it just shut down - with the battery just dead. The last four times the engine power was reduced which only allowed me to drive at a maximum of 20mph. I have had it towed all five times, with 2 different GMC dealers inspecting the vehicle. One technician personally came out and told me in his 12 years of working on GMC vehicles he has never seen the code that's appearing on my vehicle. The other times (all at the same GMC service center) I get the vehicle returned to me with the service man telling me that they can locate the problem. Please - please - please help me. Also the GMC service manager informed me that the code that continues to appear on my vehicle is P1682 and they have been told not to repair or replace anything on the vehicle, just return to customer until the problem reoccurs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,504
    lHere's what info I have on 1682:

    Circuit/System Description

    There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set.

    Conditions for Running the DTC

    The ignition is ON.
    System voltage is more than 5.23 volts.
    The powertrain relay is commanded ON.
    DTC P1682 runs continuously.
    Conditions for Setting the DTC

    The ECM detects that the voltage level difference is greater than 3 volts between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits for less than 1 second.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets

    DTC P1682 is a Type A code.

    Conditions for Clearing the DTC

    DTC P1682 is a Type A code.

    Diagnostic Aids

    This test procedure requires that the vehicle battery has passed a load test and is completely charged. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test See: Starting and Charging\Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Battery Inspection/Test

    Special Tools

    J 35616

    Circuit/System Verification

    Important: On the scan tool, the powertrain relay is referred to as the EC ignition relay.

    If DTCs P0685, P0689, or P0690 are set, diagnose those DTCs first.
    Ignition ON, engine OFF, observe both the Ignition 1 Voltage signal and the EC Ignition Relay Feedback signal parameters on the scan tool. Both parameter values should display no more than 3 volts difference between the 2 parameters.
    Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
    Circuit/System Testing

    Important: You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with Circuit/System Testing.

    Testing the Ignition 1 Signal Circuit

    Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.

    Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available to both test points of the fuse from the powertrain relay to the ECM.
    If B+ is only available on one test point of the fuse, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit from the fuse to the ECM for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
    If B+ is not available on either test point of the fuse, replace the underhood fuse block.
    Ignition OFF, disconnect the ECM C1 connector.
    Ignition ON, verify that B+ is available at C1-19.
    If B+ is not available, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance condition. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
    If all circuits test normal, replace the ECM.
    Testing the EC Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit

    Important: A resistance of 5 ohms or greater in the circuit will cause the DTC to set.

    Ignition OFF, remove the powertrain relay from the underhood fuse block.
    Ignition ON, connect a 3A fused jumper wire from B+ to the powertrain ignition 1 voltage circuit terminal. Verify that the EC Ignition Relay Feedback parameter displays B+ on the scan tool.
    If the scan tool parameter is less than the specified value, test the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance or short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
    Repair Instructions

    Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification See: Verification Tests

    Relay Replacement (Attached to Wire Harness) Relay Replacement (Within an Electrical Center)
    Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement
    Engine Control Module Replacement
    Engine Control Module Programming and Setup (GAS)

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    If you would like for us to check into anything further for you regarding this, please don't hesitate to contact us via email at with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • mrc81mrc81 Posts: 1
    its the clutch in front of truck i had same problem. servix clutch maybe cant remember the name of it
  • cupike - Did you ever get your situation resolved? We have a 2011 Yukon XL Denali that is within 1000 miles of end of warranty, and the "Service Suspension System" warning comes on randomly - sometimes it's on, sometimes it's off. We've had it to the dealer twice and they have been no help - time to start documenting the problem... my wife just started taking photos of the warning message! Thanks.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    If you would like for us to document this situation through customer service, we'd be happy to do so. Please contact us via email at with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I have the very same issues with an 02' awd yukon i have replaced the left wheel bearing , half shaft , and have a differential coming , has anyone got a clue to the fix ? and by the way i have talked to GM about this issue and there is ofcourse no TSB on this problem ..
  • I had ran into a similar issue. Light would blink when starting the truck, then remain on steady. I had it checked and was told it was the front air bag sensor. I did some research then fixed it myself. I found the two main reasons for this alert is either a collision or corrosion. Since I knew I didn't crash, I thought I'd check for corrosion. I found a video on the web from a company that sells after market sensors that shows you what the part looks like and where it is located. I located the sensor, unplugged and cleaned it, then I sprayed some corrosion protection spray ( I used battery terminal protector on it). I plugged it back in and it was good to go. It took longer to find the sensor than to fix the problem. The light shut itself off and I didn't have to shell out the money for a new sensor.
  • bobg2002bobg2002 Posts: 1
    Hi I'm having issues with my 2002 Denali. I have a po300b code. I changed plugs. When doing that I found all plugs to be clean and gray/tan. (maybe lean) I then cleaned the injectors. After a test ride the code came back. I tested fuel pressure and found 45 psi at idle, 55psi with vacumn removed. With vacumn removed the misfires on cylinder 2 and 6 lessened a great deal. Does anyone have any recommendations on further diagnosing the
    fuel pressure regulator and pump. Any further tests to solve this issue would be greatly appreciated . Thanks
  • sdillon1sdillon1 Posts: 2
    Last November (2012) I purchased a used 2009 Denali 6.2 with 39,000 miles from a Cincinnati GMC dealer. I now have 44000 miles on it and below this is what I have had to have fixed. I can not hardly believe it to be normal for these items due to age and mileage of car and the only thing the dealer here can say is that it is a higher end SUV and they just cost more to maintain. Is this reasonable?

    1) November, replaced battery (Dealer covered, but at 39K miles?)
    2) November, CD/DVD player internal optical head moves when key is off and sitting. I noticed it early one morning when I opened the door.
    Dealer said this could be normal. I don't buy it.
    3) January (ish), Turn signal audible notification quit working, 1/2 radio speakers (only front) quit working intermittently.
    4) March, hooked up boat trailer for the first time and brake lights on trailer did not work. Had to replace another computer. Replaced a $700 dollar computer.
    5)June, Service AirBag Message is now displaying.
    6)June, Volt guage reading 15+ volts.

    Is this to be expected? I can't honestly think that this is common. If so very poor quality if there is nothing else going on?

    Any thoughts or experiences with this year/make/model?
  • tr2009tr2009 Posts: 1
    Thoughts are GMC has some major issue with 2009 Yukon Denali

    Purchased brand new, all service work completed from dealership. We have had major service work $$$. Takes a week or so for the Service Dept. to determine the problems. After reading this Forums - You would think they would be up front about how often these problem are.

    Replaced Battery's -
    Steering Column replacement
    Rack & pinion assembly
    Transfer case bearing
    Front Differential
    A/C motor Diverter

    And in the morning it will be towed to the dealership cause of ELECTRICAL issues. Completely dead..... Nothing works. It's not the Battery! It can not be jumped.
    Just wanted to let you know
  • sdillon1sdillon1 Posts: 2
    Three days after posting this we have had a new one pop up. Cold starts in the morning it acts as it wants to stall and the Check Engine light is now on. AutoZone shows the code as a cold air injection system that forces air into the exhaust system is the issue. Just one more expensive item to fix in a SUV that has less than 50,000 miles.
  • hi, MY 2009 GMC Yukon will not start ,,the battery is fine ,, there is a Service Traction control and Service StabiliTrack indicator that comes on.. help please !!!
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