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Hey dako_tian....you willing to pay for my transfer to Dallas?
Happy Friday!
You don't need a lawyer for lemon law cases in California if your vehicle is covered by the BBB autoline arbitration program. The arbitrator can award a replacement vehicle or a reimbursement.
The amount of dollars deducted for use, by law, can be no more than a fixed percentage of purchase price based on the odometer reading when the vehicle was brought in the first time for the problem that resulted in the buy back or replacement.
I heard many cases over 16 years and there were cases that justified and received a 100% reimbursement, with no deduction for miles used.
It sounds to me like the exhaust system, or a rattling heatshield(does this veh. even have a heat shield?) but I'm just not sure.I took it to the dealer twice while they replaced my steering gearbox(SQUEEKY) and the tech says that's how they are. C'mon everybody, is that "how they are"?
For my $55k they should be able to stop this. Does anyone else hear this rattling/vibrating/resonating noise?
FWIW, the first month with my Denali was very disappointing & frustrating since it was at the dealer a few times for several problems that weren't noticeable during the test drive. However, the dealer did fix all of them. And its been trouble-free since then.
The complaint: Customer experiences clunking noise under normal accleration from a stop light.
The fix: During production GM installed a soft metal driveshaft yolk. What this means is that the yolk that fits into the driveshaft is made of softer metal than the output shaft on the transmission. This is an engineering method that is industry standard. If you are mechanically inclined, remove your driveshaft and take it to a highly reputable driveline service shop. Have the shop replace the u-joints with Spicer servicable u-joints and also have them install a Spicer yolk. The yolk is manufactured with a harder material and will make the clunking go away. Easy fix for about $120.
The problem is that the splines on the inside of the yolk get burred up and stick to the splines on the output shaft of the transmission. One way you can diagnose the problem is by removing the driveshaft lubricate the splines inside of the yolk with CV Joint grease (blue or green in color). Make sure that you don't over do it because you will have a fight on your hands trying to get it back on. If the problem goes away get the yolk replaced.
Good Luck.
GMWrench
Symtom: Upon normal acceleration onto a freeway and as the vehicle approaches 65 - 70 mph the torque convertor kicks in and the truck shakes harder than a 7.0 earthquake. The computer compensates and disengages the convertor which softens the vibration but does not eliminate it. I had a Tech 2 in the vehicle to attempt a diagnosis and found that as the converter engaged around 65 mph the number 3 cylinder began misfiring over 160 times. I don't know how number 3 cylinder and the convertor are tied together but they are not singing a pleasant tune. What's the feedback.
GMWrench
If not, when the TCC engages it lowers engine speed about 300 rpm. This reduction in engine speed increases volumetric efficiency of the engine, causing higher compression pressures. That's when marginal secondary ignition components start breaking down. The mechanical connection between the engine and drivetrain provided by the TCC tends to amplify the symptoms. Replace the plugs and wires with ACDelco, and take a hard look at the coils for any signs of carbon tracking on the towers.
thanks for the quick response. A 0330 or 03003 Misfire in number 3 cylinder was set. I replaced the entire fuel injection system with an updated version from GM. I also replaced the #3 spark plug ruling out a possible hair line crack. Upon further review I swaped the #1 and #3 spark plug wires and the problem still surfaced. This vehicle is equiped with only one coil. The truck has a little over 100,000 miles. What items should be replaced? The valve body was recently replaced by a GM Dealership. How can I isolate the problem to the transmission if it is the problem? Look forward to hearing from you.
gmwrench
Thanks in advance!
The first GMC dealer was a real scam artist. He tried to soak me for $2K worth of unnecessary repairs. I'm not a mechanic; but I know BS when I see it and hear it. Never again will I go there.
Second GMC dealer (today) found that the place in the exhaust where the O2 sensor goes is loose, causing the rattle. The weird thing is; the O2 sensor is near the front of the truck; and the rattle is coming from the back (near the muffler). I know noises can travel...but I swear I think this is coming from the back of my truck.
The repair will be $90 part plus 1/2 hr labor; and I'm reluctant to do it because I'm not sure that's what is causing the rattle. I'm thinking it's an exhaust baffle that only comes loose and rattles under high temps - and they can't duplicate it in the shop or even after the exhaust system has cooled down even for a minute or two.
So unless I want to replace an otherwise perfectly good muffler; I guess I'm stuck with the rattle too. Please post if any of you guys figure out this stupid rattling noise.
Mine is a 2000 Yukon with 5.3L engine; and like many others; my throttle body was replaced under warranty at around 20K miles.
And about 20K-30K miles later...it started doing the EXACT same thing. Just on a whim; I decided to go to a local independant shop that advertises the JB fuel injection cleaning system. I figured it was $90; a little expensive, but worth a try. They pull (loosen) the plastic intake piece and insert some kind of brass nozzle in there; and spray it while the engine is running.
Whatever they did; the engine ran LIKE BRAND NEW. Even now (1 year later), I still don't have any problems with stalling. I'll probably do the fuel injection service about once a year.
It really surprised the heck out of me. Something that actually WORKS just like advertised! I know there are plenty of other fuel injection cleaning systems (Jiffy Lube does it; GM dealers have their brand, etc) -- but I can guarantee you that the system by JB does indeed work.
You hear this sound when the A/C is on and fan set to one the lower speeds (radio off and windows up). Vehicle speed does not make a difference. There is NO way to get a quiet vehicle, even at idle, UNLESS you turn off the A/C. So off to the dealer (3 times) until finally the shop produces GM document ID# 1528380, which states in part:
“Customers may comment of a hiss noise coming from the dash area with the A/C on. The noise can come and go or change intensity depending on A/C system loads (outside temp, engine RPMs, humidity, etc.)”
“The noise is normally only heard while stopped with the blower on low and radio off. The noise is coming from the A/C orifice tube and is normal. No repairs should be made.”
ARE YOU kidding me NO REPAIRS should be made? What company makes a 50K+ vehicle and accepts this problem (that they documented) as NORMAL? Buy the way, this document number applies to “03-04 Chevrolet All Full Size Trucks and Utilities, and 03-04 GMC All Full Size Trucks and Utilities, and 03-04 Cadillac All Full Size Utilities”. One would think that the engineers have been placed on overtime to resolve a defect which affects such a large number of vehicles, but NO, the easy fix is to send out a one page doc stating this is normal.
Any way, I am requesting your assistance. If this noise situation is indeed normal in your Denali, please post a response. If you have found a solution, please advise of that as well. If you do not have this noise problem, you may be one of the luckly ones.
My local dealer Thousand Oaks GMC has some wonderful service advisers and mine has been working hard to understand and fix the issues - no problems, only praise there, but.....
I have the muffler popping and pinging and they are working on fixing this, however....
The electronics associated with the seats is driving me nuts. It pulls back to the exit position ( as set) only sometimes when exiting. Sometimes it pulls up tight to the steering wheel. Other times on entry the seat moves forward to the driving position instead of moving back to entry/exit.
Sometimes the "auto position" button (I'm the #1 position) will work and pull the seat forward from the entry position, other times it does nothing ( and yes, I'm in Park) and I manually reach down and move the seat forward so I can drive. The dealer service advisor got in the car and manipulated it several times and said that it seemed to work fine. He also said that the seat position "trigger" was set to "on remote" not "on key entry". I was baffled. I set it to "on key entry". I don't know how it changed.
Well, I think this car is causing me to question my mind. Is it so complex I'm getting all turned around? Is it sporadically working?
I'm reduced to keeping an extensive log so we can pin it down.
Oh! Did I mention the rear hatch occasionally ringing chimes wildly and turning on the interior lights saying that it isn't latched? Well it is, but if I open and slam - it seems to go away.
In addition, occasionally, when making a left hand turn, it turns on the interior lights and starts chiming wildly - no interesting message in the Driver Info Center for this one.
Pretty wild stuff - and a little frustrating.
The dealership has taken a couple cracks at it, and is unable to duplicate. So I am reduced to complaining and feeling a little foolish.
Anyone had these experiences?
Anyone have ideas on how to run this to ground???
A thousand thanks.
Mike
Good firm closing by pushing down in the middle of the door seems to prevent it from happening.
The tailgate is a latch adjustment issue.
Was it poorly designed?
The latch was replaced/adjusted/threatened and we'll see if it stays on good behavior.
The gremlins in the seat programming are still elusive so the solution will wait for another day.
I'm going to keep a log to see if I somehow can find a pattern to the mischief!
GMC Dealer #2 (my original dealer) said it was the fitting where the O2 sensor plugs into the exhaust pipe was loose/rattling. About $90 for the part and 1 hr labor to fix it. The problem is; the noise sounds like it's coming from the BACK of the truck; not the front where the o2 sensor is located!
So now I still have the problem. I agree with the post above; it sounds like an exhaust rattle coming from the muffler. I'm tempted just to go to Midas or Meinike or Joe Independant or whoever and have them put on a lifetime guarantee muffler and say the heck with the dealer.
I seem so have a "clunking" or "tapping" sound from right below the driver side dash when the fan is in the low to medium positions. It sounds as if one of the flaps that directs the air to the proper vent is loose.
Any comments appreciated.
BTW, I have a 2003 Denali
1) My rear door locks do not lock with the remote, internal drive door mounted lock button, or upon putting the vehicle in drive like the front doors.
2) Sometimes all my presets in FM, XM and AM will complete wig out and change. The next time a start the truck, they are pack to normal.
3) There is annoying squeak coming from right below the automatic climate control display. It is very annoying and almost continuous on some road surfaces. I can hold the plastic trim piece and it stops - not sure if anyone else has this one.
Thanks for any input.
have quit working. The indicator light on the button which switches on the
mirror heaters and the rear hatch defroster lights as if power is being sent
to the mirrors. The rear hatch defroster still defrosts. I have checked
the fuse for the mirror heaters and it is OK. Any ideas of what is causing
the mirrors to not get power to their defrosters?
Thanks,
Chris
I have a 2004 5.3, 2WD Yukon that has developed a front end noise when turning at slow speeds such as backing in and out of the driveway. It sound like a "thump". I inspected the steering column and wheelwall areas to see if the tires are maybe hitting something but I have not been able to pinpoint.
Also, ever since we bought our Yukon the muffler/exhaust pipe makes a bell ringing sound for 2 to 5 minutes after turning the vehicle off. It will sound off about every 5 to 10 seconds and rivals a few churches in our area on Sunday mornings. I mean you can hear it a hundred feet away in a parking lot. Seems to be less on colder days. I've taken to the dealer and they said to let it break-in. Its broken-in with 9k miles on it and still ringing.
Any suggestion and information on these two issues would be helpful before taking back to the dealer.
thank you all,