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Chevy Silverado - III

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  • Tim,
    I'm not the guy you were talking about, but I wouldn't mind seeing the picture anyway. That sounds like an interesting combination of colors.
    Could you post a website or something?
    -powerisfun
  • mportermporter Posts: 11
    Anybody check their "Chrome Styled S.S. Wheels" closely? Saw a set out in the parking lot. The little center hubs were removed and something looked weird! The wheel itself is painted, the chrome is an insert " hub cap?" that goes over the wheel! Major sadness!! Called the dealer last Wed. to find out if I had a build date yet, he called me back and told me they SHIPPED IT!! Don't know if I should kiss him or strangle him! Should be here the 10th( next week)!! Ye HAW!! Man I'm bouncing off the walls. Hey Cindy, I was wondering since you have, basicly, the same truck, what kind of mileage you're getting? I was figuring, at 3 mpg better for the 3.73 that would be 78 more miles on a 26 gallon tank. At 1.20 per gallon and about 15 mpg that's $5.20 per tank full. Think I'll like the extended range and the better economy.
    Mark
  • murizarmurizar Posts: 33
    In short after market speakers sound louder and will last longer. If you are happy with your factory set then I am happy, but if you are not and want to upgrade then read the following.

    On the next paragraph is some information I copied and reworded to compact it from Crutchfield on their speaker and radio topics, all the credit goes to them.

    "Factory speakers are made up of paper cone midrange and woofers with foam surrounds. The surround is the flexible ring around the edge of the cone. The tweeters are cone type and therefore efficient and economical. Paper cones don't stand up to heat, cold or moisture. After market speakers, if you stay away from paper cones, are made up of Dome tweeters that sound smoother and more accurate with an extended high frequency response. Most after market midrange and woofer speakers are made up of polypropylene of poly mixed with other materials that gives excellent sound and become more efficient and sound louder because the material is stiff and lightweight and stand up to the heat, cold and moisture."

    Foam surrounds don't last as long as after market rubber type and I have seen some become brittle. "With three way speakers you get enhanced warmth and texture", that means that with two sets of three-way speakers you get 12 speakers not the standard 6 in the LS/LT SILVERADO for better reproduction. I don't know about everyone else but I can tell the difference, specially with my SILVERADO base 4 speakers system.

    With the LS/LT SILVERADO I would replace the speakers if I added an amplifier because the new amplifier will tear the factories sooner on the surround area since they are not intended for the extra power. Does anyone know what the wattage and RMS of the SILVERADO radios is?
  • murizarmurizar Posts: 33
    I need to correct the power out put for the Pioneer KEH-7800. In reality it is 45watts/22RMS x 4 channels. When a radio says 45watts/22RMS it means that the continuous power that the built in amplifier can produce is 22 watts with a peak power or brief musical burst of 45 watts.

    rwagoner

    Blancpunct radios don't all have the same power rating for example some are 40 watts/17 RMS, 35 watts/23RMS and 25watts/14RMS. It would mean a lot more if you could tell me what Blancpunct model you are referring to.
  • Hey everyone i noticed that you have been talking about factory stereo im a certified installer and i could suggest lots of things to do with your trucks for cheap money but also using good products....such as RF,PPI,ECLIPSE,ALPINE,PIONEER.....if there are any ?'s about the factory speakers or deck or aftermarket speakers email me at Redwolf0069@aol.com thank you!!!!
  • m1685m1685 Posts: 71
    I got my new 2000 3/4ton 5-speed 4x4 about 3 weeks ago. I have noticed only one problem so far, and it is with the manual transmission. Sometimes when changing gears, there is usually a clank coming from the drivetrain. If I let out on the clutch slowly, it barely happens. I know most people could say just don't let out as fast, but I have driven a friend of mine's 98 3/4ton 454, and I have never noticed this on his, letting out fast or slow. Also, more than once I have not been able to get it into 3rd gear, I had to skip it and go to 4th. This has only happened two or three times. Usually it has trouble going into 3rd, but it does eventually go in. If ANYONE has any clue if this can be fixed or if anyone has had these troubles, please respond. I have not had the time to take it in to the dealer. I called them, but they just said they would have to look at it. I know how to drive a stick, I have just never come across this problem before. Thanks for any responses.
  • Some driveline clunking is normal when changing gears on a heavy duty like the 2500 5 speed.

    But trouble getting it into 3rd can mean a problem with the synchros. Had the same intermittent problem trying to get my Mustang into second gear. Usually fine, but then sometimes wouldn't want to slip into gear. Finally, I told the dealer service department about it, and they replaced the synchros under warranty, no haggling required. The best part was, it completely solved the problem on that car. Worst part was, they had to drop the transmission.
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Tim, for all the bla bla bla I've done about aftermarket parts for my virtual truck, I've only purchased a rear anti-sway bar, rear air bags, and a compressor kit for the bags. I only need some camper tie down hardware and I have enough to roll. My next purchase will be Catch All floor mats, a bed liner, and when my bank account recovers I'll get the S.S. Putco Skins. Don't even ask about the stereo. I expect to keep this truck well over 10 years so I don't mind throwing money at it to finish it the way I like.
  • hey vince. what color is that 3/4 ton? i will buy it if its dark grey or black!
    thanks
    kevin
  • mksalemmksalem Posts: 42
    If you have the "leaky" rear windows on a extended cab that don't latch firmly you might want to try this . . . I had the passenger side replaced once and it helped a little but I still had a lot of wind noise at highway speeds especially if the inside air/blower was up past "2" and on "outside" air . . . These latches don't exert enough closing force - pretty wimpy affairs . . .

    This is NOT for the faint at heart :

    1) Open window and remove hinge/latch mechanism - it will snap out at the frame connection first and then rotate out at the glass. Not as scary as it looks - put latch aside for safe keeping.

    2) Keep glass open about 2 or 3 inches by stuffing a rag between glass and frame/truck body.

    3) Loop about 3 ft. of 1/4 inch nylon cord around the black plastic latch attach point on the frame in such a way that you pull it in towards the center of the rear part of the cab (an imaginary point in the middle of the back seat)

    4) Notice that the harder you pull, the more the frame/latch post will flex towards the center point.

    5) Now, fire up an electric heat gun; the kind you use for shrink tubing in the electronics business - mine was rated at about 1000 w - hair dryer probably won't work because the heat isn't concentrated enough.

    6) Slowly move it all around the base of the latch post/frame connection while exerting constant pressure on the nylon cord - about 30 seconds max. Remove heat/keep pressure on until cool.

    7) The correct amount of deformation on the post is not even noticable by the eye - too much heat and you will be very embarrassed when heading to the dealer. Might want to practice on something plastic first . . . (buy a 1/24 Monogram model kit of a Ford F-150 at WalMart and melt the hell out of it)

    The latch now really "snaps" shut - window is really seated against the rubber. No more noise.

    Pretty easy fix - no drilling or removing door/trim panels. I've done 3 trucks so far (all '99s) and no problems - hope it helps.
  • rwagonerrwagoner Posts: 338
    While I do like Crutchfield and have bought numerous things from them through the years, their info on factory speakers is outdated by about 20 years on domestic radios and about 5 on Japanese makes. Have you ever seen the factory speakers on a Chevy? I haven't seen the Silverado, but my '91 S-10 had speakers with large magnets and better construction than the Kenwoods (I forget the model number but they cost about $70 back in 1992) I had bought to replace them (4x10 rears). The Kenwoods also didn't sound nearly as good, so I sent them back.

    As for life span, the factory speakers are still going strong on that S-10 (sold last March). The factory unit back then was 40 watts per channel RMS. I have never had factory speakers (with factory or modest power aftermarket radio) go bad, even those that are installed in the dash. I HAVE had aftermarket speakers go bad in as little as 5 years due to the sun's effects (another reason I won't buy Kenwood now).

    I'm not saying that the Silverado has the best speakers (it would seem the front 6-1/2 inch woofer should reproduce bass much better than it does), but in the LS and LT they are definitely not the worst. Chevy hasn't used a "cheap paper cone" in 2 decades on their better radios as far as I have seen. The reason I have not replaced the 4x6s yet is that I haven't found any for less than $100 locally that sound even as clear as the factory ones.

    And if you have ever listened to an upper-level Chrysler radio with seperate amp and Infinity speakers, you know Crutchfield is stretching things quite a bit when it says that all factory systems suck.

    >which Blaupunkt do you have<

    Aspen CM147. 4x35 watts Peak, 4x13.5 watts RMS at less than 1% THD. No seperate amp except for the subwoofer. Some day I will upgrade the front speakers in that '67 Camaro. Right now I have two 3-1/2 inch full-range cheapos in place of the factory center-of-dash mono 6x9. I think the kick panels will accept a thin 4x6. Do that and add a tweeter and I'll be set.

    I'm writing too much and I'm tired. Got to rest up for tomorrow's surf ... or lack of it.
  • rwagonerrwagoner Posts: 338
    You'll have to call (or drive) around. Bazooka released a new series, which now has 100 watts (compared with my 80), their lower line now has 50 (as opposed to 30). crutchfield had a good price primarily because mine was being discontinued at the time. They do have open-box items and returns sometimes so you might get a good price that way. Otherwise, look for a good local shop ... often they beat the chains by a longshot.

    If you want to hear it before you buy, let me know.

    Richard
  • kernickkernick Posts: 4,072
    I've had my 2000 LS for about a week now. I have about 250 miles, and have noticed only 1 minor, minor initial quality problem, and nothing bad about the engine/drivetrain/handling/noises.

    The only problem was a scratch in the plastic radioface (time/frequency). I thought it was some glue and tried to pick it off with my fingernail, and that just scratched it up more. I will see if the dealer will replace it.

    After 500 miles I'll get up to 65mph and see if there are any problems. Absolutely beautiful at 55 mph and under.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    here's that pic I told ya about.

    I took one in the Morning with the sun in my eyes..and it turned out too dark. Took another that evening...sun was reflecting off the window. It's hard to see the color on the side...but you get the idea. Damn nice combo.
    If an LT is available in 2-tone next time...perhaps I'd get this?...or Carmine with Gold. This is a 3/4 I believe.
    This is from my truck...I didn't get out and go around to the front...a guy was already coming over to ask if I need help!

    http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Indigo1.jpg

    - Tim
  • Anyone know if the battery ground on a 2000 Silverado 1/2 ton LS is positive or negative?
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    There hasn't been a positive ground car made in America for at least 50 years. The answer is negative.
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Sorry the truck is white with graphite cloth 40/20/40 interior. Nice truck though, most options. 2500, reg cab, lb, 4wd, 3.73, autotrack (I think), tow package, firm ride, 5th wheel wiring, alum wheels, locker. I took it on the freeway and no vibration.
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Thanks for the note Mark. I have a 3/4 ton with a camper sometimes so the larger diameter bar is probably good. The mounting system obviously sucks but I assume the bar is okay. Hellwig has been doing this for quite a while. I e-mailed them with my concerns and this is their response.


    Just to let you know we are currently looking into the problems with that kit
    and are working on a solution.
    Please call Robert Sayre in our Tech. and R & D department for any further questions
    you may have.
    Hellwig Products Co. Inc.
    Customer Service Dept.


    I'll be talking to them and will post the result.
    Vince
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Tim, that is a nice clear shot even if a bad angle. I notice that truck has the infamous camper mirrors you love soo much. LONG LIVE CAMPER MIRRORS!!
  • Thanks for the info on the battery ground. As you can tell - I know nothing about the mechanical end of the truck. I do appreciate the info!
This discussion has been closed.