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Scion tC
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Comments
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Mackabee
: )
Mackabee
Anyway, just wanted to say that I think a color like that can get old, and I understand what you meant. On the other hand, if you are reading this and getting annoyed at what I am writing, then deep down you really like that color and should just get it.
My dealer here said he could get the car the way I want it in 2 weeks. I think after i get back from being out of town on Tuesday I'm going to order it. yay!
But, I park near a Blue one at work, and seeing it in the daylight, I really like it, and might change if I had it to do over. Makes the car look different, in a nice way, but it is possible that the blue might look passe at some point.
Look at them both, and get whichever looks best to you.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
here is my indigo ink pearl
http://home.comcast.net/~jsmartin1300/iiptc.jpg
http://www.cars.com/news/stories/021005_storyd_cc.jhtml?page=news- story&aff=national
We only see the tip of the iceberg in the U.S., if you saw all the coupes and hatches availlable in Europe, you'd see how hard it is to be "different".
A few things that popped up along the way:
1) When you take the gas cap off most other cars seem to have a metal plate that will be pushed aside by the nozzle on the pump. Upon closer inspection I did not see one on the tC. Could someone else confirm this is or is not present on the tC? On mine it just looks like a black hole into the tank, no (brass I think) plate in the way. Reason I ask is #2.
2) Has anyone else had trouble getting certain gas nozzles to work in the tank? Twice today on my trip I had cases where the nozzle refused to pump gas into the tank because it thought the tank was full (did the little auto click off). The first one was at an older station with old pumps; I thought it might have been the nozzle so I shrugged it off and just waited to fill up. Then once in St. Louis I stopped at a QT that I know just went in a few years back (newer equiptment) but I had the same problem. This time I was able to back the nozzle out a little and then it worked fine. I'm just wondering if this and #1 might be related.
3) Has anyone else noticed a click in the center of the dashboard? It happened for a period of about 2 hours this morning and then went away. I'm not sure if it was a side effect of the dash expanding as it warmed up; it was just a little annoying as it would click over bumps. I'm not worried about it, was the first time I had heard it, and it went away.
4) One thing I've noticed is the car tends to grind when trying to put it in reverse unless the vehicle is completely stopped. I've had other vehicles do this if there was any forward motion but never reverse also. Clutch is completely depressed when it happens. I couldn't be further from an engine wiz but is it because of a lack of a synchronizer on the reverse gear?
This could look like complaining. However, it is nothing more than nit picking. I love the car to death. I guess being the first vehicle I've owned I could be biased, but the whole experience from the sale to the drive has been nothing but satisfaction. The college grad program is a Godsend also. I was able to get a better rate than my parents (whom have very excellent credit) did on a corolla they bought last year.
No problem with pumping gas (But, since I am in NJ, I have never done it myself). Always goes in and fills up normally from what I can tell.
I have a few different clikc/squeaks/whatevers. One thing I did have the I found was the headliner rallted slightly over bumps, which kinda soundsed like a click from the center stack until I figured out what it was.
Reverse can be tricky on any car, and I think Toyotas are particularly notable for it. One trick, is to put it in neutral, let out the clutch, then depress the clutch again and move it into reverse. Somehow it frees up the gears. I think I got the steps right...
And, what kind of mileage did you get on the trip?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'll be heading back to the cold north in a few days though so I'll get a good trip now that the learning is over to see where it stands.
The drive is all highway, speed limits range from 55 to 70, average speed of traffic (and my speed) are probably around 70.
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Mackabee
My friend who works for Toyota hooked me up with a big dealership in the LA area. He couldn't get me anything off the price - unlike the great "VIP" pricing he has been able to get some of our friends. They told me it would be 2 - 3 weeks.
In the meantime I went looking at other dealerships, and was ready to buy a Flint mica tC at another dealership. This wasn't the car I wanted but it was available now. It had chrome wheels on it, which they had priced at $2K. The salesperson agreed to come down to $1500 (still way overpriced I learned later from this site). I had ny checkbook out and at the last minute the sales guy said his boss wouldn't let him sell the wheels for less than $2K. I ended up walking out, and I am hapy that I did. I git my TC from the original dealership, snd the pricing matched up exactly to waht the website said.
Bottom line - there are dealerships that wil try yo force you to buy leather seats, chrome wheels, higher end stereos etc. If you get one of those walk out, and find a dealership that is willing to live with the non-negotiable pricing that Toyota has established.
Mine is Azure Pearl and I love it - get the exhaust add on, it makes the car.
The Azure Pearl hides the 'road dirt' very well and looks cleaner longer than other colors I've owned. It wasn't a decision factor for me. Rather, more of an observation since I've had it for 6 months now.
And YES, those paint samples at the dealer don't let you know what a real car will look like in that color. The impact of a color on a vehicle is much different than on a 4"x12" flap of laminated rubbery material.
Yay yay yay car! Actually the azure one I saw was someone's that had just come in and it had a SOLD sign on it. Soon I will see one that looks like that- for ME!
What is involved with installing on your own?
Would self-installation effect the warrenty in any way?
Does anyone out there have it? Is there any noticable performance effect or change in gas mileage?
Find the sound of the performance exhaust a little bit much, but am considering the cold-air and not sure if it, on its own, is worth the effort and cash.
Thanks in advance.
Anyway, I have a little problem. My car came in today!!! I still have not sold my Honda! It
is a 2000 Civic hatchback, and they dealer offered me $4300 as a trade-in. I think I could get about $2000 more if I sell it myself. If I get my new car tomorrow, and don't trade it in, what if I can't sell my Honda and I didn't take the trade in? But that's such a small amount.
3 Options:
Trade it in and get my new car
Get my new car and keep trying to sell my Honda
Delay taking delivery of the new car for a week or two if they will hold it and keep trying to sell my Honda.
What would you do?
Thanks.
Frankly, a 2000 Civic should be one of the easiest cars to sell that you could have, so I can't see it being a problem, unless it is really bombed out or has 200K on it.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I don't want to be stuck with two cars if possible, but when I bought my Honda this happened and I was able to still sell my 1988 Saab 9000. It took a month. And I got three times what the dealer offered. Trading my car in should be last resort, I think.
But my tC is waiting for me and it's so cute I just wanna go get it. That is the real dilemma.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
He said they could sell it and order me a new one in or something, but that was after I told him I'm come in on Tuesday. Why is this guy being such a d*ck? I know he wants to make his commission. He's kind of one of those people who talks like he thinks he's smart but he's really an idiot. I am just going to pick it up on Tuesday and try to sell my honda myself. He said "you'd really save more on taxes if you just traded it in" and I said "Not two thousand dollars worth." I'll just have both cars for a few weeks, no big deal. I don't know why this is so annoying, mostly it's just that I felt like he is not being very accomodating. I know I'm not purchasing a $60K Lexus or something, but come on, buddy- work with me, here.
It's so clear they WANT my Honda so I'm sure I can sell it easily, once the new AutoTrader comes out with my ad in it. Thanks for letting me vent. I feel better now.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
http://www.nhtsa.gov/NCAP/Cars/3176.html
If so, the front and side crash protection for the driver and passengers looks to be very good. Good news, eh?
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
I only got the spoiler for now. Thankfully the dealership didn't tint the windows or Lo-Jack it or anything like that.
What is everyone's opinion on the wheel locks? Think they'd be an eventual necessity? Anyone actually get the footwell lights added on?
What's the trick to opening the stereo faceplate with ease? I was pushing pretty hard last night trying to get it open and only managed to change the radio stations.
My dad suggested that I get the salesman to hook me up with free detailing every couple of months. He thinks it would only be fair since they kinda took advantage of me in F&I, being that this is my first new car purchase.
After tax, the price of the car was about a little over 19. Then after fees and F&I add-ons (Gap, extended warranty, and the bank's life insurance premium) I ended up financing about 23,500. I'm happy the warranty extension and gap, but he didn't explain to me that I'd pay over 2 grand in life insurance premiums. My brother said he ought to break my arm so I can't work or make payments for a few months... get that life insurance to pay for itself.
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Mackabee
Normally you can cancel and refi at any time. Check your credit union/bank rates.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
1. Don't take it above 4000 RPM (shift around 3000-3500) the first 500 miles. After that, hit Redline a FEW times, not too much thugh, but at max, don't take it above 4500 RPM until 1500 Miles. Also, don't drive the same speed for very long when below 500 miles. You want to vary RPMS and MPH.
2. Then get your First Oil Change.
3. After your first oil change, you can drive it harder (in terms of RPMS) And hit redlines a bit more, you can shift at the 4,000 mark more often, and 5,000 even, but try not to push it too hard.
3. Drive it like that for about 3000 miles. A little hard, a little ez, not too hard, its not worth it to take your car to the track and bounce the rev limiter etc. etc. Take it ez.
4. With your next oil change around 4500-5000 Miles. Free Game. Do what you please, just don't kill your car.
Couple other questions. I really don't want to stray away from the warranty but if I can find optional parts from a 3rd party company for (sometimes) half less, such as the shift knob, pedals, exhaust system, do you think these are hard to install? Can pretty much any veteran mechanic do it or is there a specific technique only found in Toyota? (doubt it but making sure.)
Is the strut bar worth 225?
When will the 2006 models be rolling out? It is pretty late for the 05s which were out since last summer. Have you guys heard any news of the 06' models?
Easier to damage 18" and 19" rims, too.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
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Mackabee
Mike