We live in the hilly part of NJ, sometimes do long journeys and also drive around NY City; when we had rental cars with smaller engines we found the fuel economy was less than expected since we always had pedal to the metal to keep up the speed we expected.
For us the larger engine with auto was a very simple and easy preferred choice and after all, we have down sized from much larger V8's...
The dealer that I used in NJ since '92 went OOB and the franchise was taken over by Haldeman in Hamilton Square. They do not have a good reputation and the former service manager at Nitti Subaru recommended Miller Subaru on Route 38 in Lumberton, NJ. I took my Subaru there for some minor issue and was impressed by their service department. I both heard and read very positive things about their sales department. The advertise as a Philadelphia area dealership, so you should give them a try.
At this point you need to consider if the dealer has a stock unit at the spec you want - the tax deduction and lower interest rate deal that wiil not apply for factory orders (tax deduction for sure) may save you more than the last squeeze on the invoice price.
If you know you will have to order - then yes you can probably do a little better.
I am new to this forum. This is my first post. We are planning to buy a 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited model. We live in NY metro area. Have been told by many dealers that 3.6R Limited model is in extreme short supply and waiting period on a factory order would be 6-8 weeks. Given this short supply, can we believe the advertisements of dealers offering the 3% discount on the invoice price? Anybody on this forum has bought 3.6R Limited in NY metro area, if so what price have you paid? Also, do you get discounts on the options such as moonroof and or NAV package?
I have a 3.6R Limited on order, 6-8 weeks is conservative.
Yes you can believe the discounts, without that and since the Tax deduction will be gone and lower cost financing in doubt - you can expect 3% or more.
Yes the discount applies to the entire purchase except TTL and dealer paperwork.
I'm considering a 2005 Outback XT (not XT Limited) with only 30K miles. Asking price is $16K. That seems high to me, even though it is low mileage.
Any thoughts on what a more fair price would be OTD?
I'm okay with the styling vs. the newer models, but was any significant safety feature added to the Outback in the last couple of years that should make me consider foregoing what seems like could be a decent deal if I could get the price down a bit?
I forgot to mention check out the Van Bortel (Rochester, NY) website as a starting point for your price negotiation in the Tri State area. I did better, but then I'm still waiting for my car ...
The 2005 was the first year of the third generation of Outbacks. Between 05 and 09, the last year, they changed stereos seemingly every year. There were minor trim and option changes in every year. The biggest change was for the 2009 model year when stability control was standard across the board. Some other changes were TPMS in 2007 (I could live without it...). I think all the XTs were in Limited trim in 2008-2009 and included VDC.
As far as pricing - that's just the "asking" price for those who just fell off the turnip truck. If its a certified vehicle at a dealer, its pretty close to reality because the turbo XT was a pricier vehicle when new than a base 2.5. The warranty for a certified vehicle would be worth a fair bit, so the final negotiated price would be closer to the asking price. If its a manual trans, its more rare, but you can use that in bargaining because so many people can't drive sticks (but understand that the MT XT has a devoted following). Whether a MT or an auto XT, you should be able to get a couple of thousand off, maybe a little more if there is no warranty.
The asking price is not so out of line as to rule out a test drive, carfax and mechanic's checkup. If it passes all 3, you're then ready to negotiate in confidence. Good luck.
Thanks britgeezer. It looks like several dealerships have cars that have the spec that we like. I may wait until the 30th or 31st to see if I can get a better offer.
No warranty on this car, and not certified. Carfax is "clean" but it's also empty--there's nothing on it--no notes about service being performed, etc. It's being sold by what I understand to be a pretty reputable dealer, but the dealer isn't a Subaru dealer. This is only my second time buying a used car and I'm nervous about it. The first time did not go well. Wasn't a Subaru, and had a lot more miles, but it was a complete dud.
Maybe I should play it safe and restrict my buying only to cars that still have some of the factory warranty.
No warranty and not certified would just mean to me that there's more wiggle room in the negotiation - not that the car is not worth buying. A non-subaru dealer selling a subaru will probably have less in the car than a subaru dealer and so, you might get a better deal. Some people look for used cars at dealers selling other makes new. I remember reading once that some statistical analysis supported the lower prices. Subarus are hard to buy used because they hold their value so well. Buying at a non-Subaru dealer might be one way to lower that price.
In this case, no warranty means you have to get it inspected by a mechanic. Ask the dealer if its ok - if not, then walk, but say that because of the turbo, you want to have it checked. If they ok the inspection, it will be the best $75-100 investment you can make. Then you'll be ready to negotiate. Take your time, start low, walk out at least once, or bring along an experienced negotiator.
You can buy a great used car. In March 05, I bought a like-new 02 Chevy Prizm with 25K miles on it for 5250 cash (several walk-outs and call backs) from a Chrysler-Jeep dealer who took it in trade locally & wanted 10,299. I drove it for 4 years without a single problem, Now my daughter is driving it at 99K miles and it still has been problem-free. I've done that many times - this is just the most recent, because my more recent purchases have both been new subarus.
Never owned a Subaru so have no experience with them in rough driving conditions. Would any of you guys skip buying an older Subaru that is in otherwise good shape because it doesn't have stability/traction control? Or is it less important on a car with AWD? One of the reasons we're buying this car is because we need s safer car than our current very old and barely stable Nissan Sentra.
It wouldn't bother me, I never owned a car with it until my wife's Lexus about 6 years ago. Both of us were raised in snow country and other than our time in TX have always lived in slippery areas. Although TX had some really bad ice storms during our time there, during which we were smart enough to STAY AT HOME.
OTOH I'd use the lack of stabiltiy control as a negotiation tactic to try to get the seller to knock some more off the price. Make sure that there are good service records, COMPLETE and if it's within a year or 10,000 miles of needing any of the "major" services that they do those or knock 120% of the cost of same off the price. Insist on new tires and no chips in the windscreen too.
IMO AWD & traction control etc., are almost mutually exclusive ... having one doesn't obviate the need for the other, etc.
I wouldn't make lack of it a deal killer, I had no TC/VDC on any car until I bought my '09 Outback Ltd. last July. It's nice to have, to be sure, but in any case you must realize that AWD will never overcome the laws of physics and it is in no way a free pass to drive less than prudently for conditions.
But...so is a long-travel suspension that keeps the tires on the ground. Plus AWD. Plus the limited-slip rear diff on many models, prior to the arrival of VDC.
Subarus were traction specialists before stability control even existed.
Since the inventory of the Outback 2.5i Limited is well......extremely limited here in the bay area I have to order an Outback to get what I want. It seems that most dealers will order one for invoice. Anyone having experience ordering one for less than invoice?
I'm suprised to hear that the supply is limited in the Bay Area. Still, invoice is not a bad price IMO. I'm in the Colorado front range area and the Legacy sales here have been strong since the new one was introduced. Legacy is actually the number one selling sedan in Colorado for the first 10 months of the year.
Even with the strong sales I didn't have any trouble getting one for less than invoice and I know of at least one person who got a few hundred better than I did.
Once I had decided on the color/interior combo they looked to see how many were in the Denver distribution center, picked it up the next day and added the the splash guards, wind deflectors etc. They didn't balk about the price.
First of all, many thanks to all posters here. Your buying experience made it possible for our new Subaru Outback. We bought our Subaru at Becker Subaru, Allentown, PA but we live in New Jersey. For more info, just Google my screen name (allthumbsdiy):
* 2010 Subaru Outback, 4 cylinder, Premium, CVT * All Weather package with moon roof (Option Code "06") * Conv / Protect 1B - Wheel arch moldings, splash guards, rear bumper cover (Option code "LN8") * All Weather floor mats (Option Code "B0A") * Partial Zero Emission or PZEV -required in PA,NJ,NY * Destination Charge
I used Loveland which is where I live. I could've save a few bucks had I wanted to drive to Longmont or Boulder, but they acted a bit dodgy when quoting over the internet, more back and forth to clarify than I wanted.
Once I had a good price from the others I told Loveland and asked them to match it, they were within $150 so I thought that was OK. Greeley and of course Neuberger in Colorado Springs all show discounted prices on their web sites. Neuberger claims, and probably true that they are the volume leader in the state.
This is only the second new car I've ever had, wife's Lexus was first and I spent more than a bit of time looking at others before deciding on the Legacy.
Have you ever heard of such a thing? The dealer in Ramsey, NJ had the color Outback I wanted and after weeks of email and phone negotiation, finally arrived at a price I was willing to pay; $28,500 with roof - only because he had it in stock, and it was the color I wanted. This was mid-December. When I agreed to make the deal, the add on (dealer documentation) costs totaled up to close to $600 and when I questioned those, I was told, that's it - take it or leave it. According to NJDMV, doc costs were around $130. Needless to say, I did'nt take it. Two weeks later, I broke down and on new years eve day, I callled the dealer to go and buy the car - with a bank check in hand. When I called and spoke to the supposed "sales manager", he says to me: "I'm not interested in selling you a car". I told him he was a good business man, a credit to his employer, and good luck. Can you believe it?
I went shopping at that dealer, including discussion with that sales Manager and yes I believe it and more - needless to say I didn't buy there and wouldn't recommend them to anyone else.
I finally have a Vehicle Order Number (VON) and hope the new rate still applies when our car gets delivered - latest "estimate" from SNE is end Jan or early Feb.
I believe it... some customers are more hassle then the potential profit. I deal with this from time to time in my business - sometimes its just easier to let the customer go somewhere else or quote them an inflated price, than deal with their (potential) crap.
Have you considered getting quotes (including all fees and taxes) from dealers via the internet - and then go in and purchase? My last 4 vehicles have all been purchased this way... I knew in advance, exactly what I was going to pay and all I had to do was review the numbers, sign the paperwork and then drive off.
It might be easier for you - then to physically go to dealerships.
When I leased my 08 outback, I got prices from the Internet Sales staff at Valley Subaru in Longmont. Best price of all the dealers on the front range. And I purchased the vehicle at the exact price as quoted. Aside from the time signing all the documents - it was a painless experience.
why not consider sending the owner of the dealership a copy of your post here along with a letter congratulating him on their success at viral anti-marketing now that their poor tactics are broadcast to thousands (?) of potential Subaru buyers?
The owner probably doesn't care or more likely encourages maximizing profit while its possible. In the last few months in NJ there were more potential customers than cars, anything desirable and in stock was unlikely to be discounted much and dealer fees were and are seen as profit improvement schemes and do not reflect real costs.
The next few months with no government incentives to bring customers in will be pay back time for the dealers who played games with the public vs the ones that offered up front and honest deals.
Close to buying a 2010 Outback. We are looking at a 2.5 prem w/ all weather pack. I have not sat down w/ dealer yet and wonder do I offer 500 below invoice? More? This is in Grand Rapids, MI. 49341 at Delta Subaru. Any strategery would be appreciated.
Before you meet with the dealer have your research complete.
What is the invoice price. Get internet pricing for the model you want. Does anyone have that specific model in stock or will it need to be ordered. Check the web sites yourself. Get a firm quote of dealer out the door costs. Negotiate price first - not payments. The 2.9 % is available if your credit rating is OK.
The dealer doesn't really want you to leave without your order, you want the best price, preparation on your part will let you get the best deal possible for your circumstances.
I dont think the dealer has what we are looking for, mostly the premiums are equipped with the all weather AND moonroof - we really dont need the moonroof. But briefly chatting on the phone yesterday - they said they can do the dealer trade thing. Whats the best method of figuring invoice and internet price? I havent played the new car game in a long time and really dont feel like getting ripped. I noticed that the dealers only quote msrp on the site.
Like I said before you need to do your homework and find out the true invoice cost. - Edmunds.com new car pricing -Truecar.com Several dealerships show online pricing - google Van Bortel, NY and build your car - their online system said they would sell a car "like" the one you are looking for which had a list of $25,790 MSRP including destination- for $24.038 + docs fees. DMV and state taxes.
The place where the dealers try to stick it to you is their documentation and other fees, find out ahead of time what they are and if they are controlled in your state - can vary from less than $200 to $695 - some dealers do more for you than others.
Only you know the detailed spec - search the invoice pricing and get actual internet pricing offers and then, only then sit down with the dealer.
Typically, you will get a better price for a new order, when dealers "find a car" its a like horse trading you pay for the convenience.
Some give a better price for cash deals others like financing because they get commission.
Finally when you buy the car the dealer will try to sell you all kinds of extras - high profit for him - high price for you - if you want extended warranties google them and search ebay you will be surprised!
Called the dealer yesterday and was able to get an overnight test drive with a 2.5 premium w/ all weather and moonroof. They have 1 car on the lot that has what we are looking for, but its not really the color I'm looking for( its white) So when we return the car later today, we can figure out the next step, a possible trade w/ another dealer, or wait till feb. when their next batch of cars comes in. The Outback is definitely growing on me.
We also initially decided on buying the premium/all weather package, but at the last minute went with prem/awp/moon roof.
prices vary depending on small add ons (cargo nets, floor mats), but someone here once said they bough one for $25.5 (w moon roof) but don't know where, when, etc.
Hello all, I am considering a used 2009 subaru limited and want to get your thought as to what would be the fair price for the following: 1 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 17K miles - current sticker price 25,500 2 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 24K miles - current sticker price 24,000
I believe that the invoice for a new 2009 subaru limited in the past was 27K. Having said that, I believe there were incentive in the past. I am not sure if this can be a factor in negotiation. Is it reasonable to offer 22K to begin?
Your thoughts and opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Comments
Thanks.
The 3.6 may have the edge in historical reliability.
For us the larger engine with auto was a very simple and easy preferred choice and after all, we have down sized from much larger V8's...
If you know you will have to order - then yes you can probably do a little better.
I am new to this forum. This is my first post. We are planning to buy a 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited model. We live in NY metro area. Have been told by many dealers that 3.6R Limited model is in extreme short supply and waiting period on a factory order would be 6-8 weeks. Given this short supply, can we believe the advertisements of dealers offering the 3% discount on the invoice price? Anybody on this forum has bought 3.6R Limited in NY metro area, if so what price have you paid? Also, do you get discounts on the options such as moonroof and or NAV package?
Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.
Yes you can believe the discounts, without that and since the Tax deduction will be gone and lower cost financing in doubt - you can expect 3% or more.
Yes the discount applies to the entire purchase except TTL and dealer paperwork.
Any thoughts on what a more fair price would be OTD?
I'm okay with the styling vs. the newer models, but was any significant safety feature added to the Outback in the last couple of years that should make me consider foregoing what seems like could be a decent deal if I could get the price down a bit?
Would really appreciate any advice.
As far as pricing - that's just the "asking" price for those who just fell off the turnip truck. If its a certified vehicle at a dealer, its pretty close to reality because the turbo XT was a pricier vehicle when new than a base 2.5. The warranty for a certified vehicle would be worth a fair bit, so the final negotiated price would be closer to the asking price. If its a manual trans, its more rare, but you can use that in bargaining because so many people can't drive sticks (but understand that the MT XT has a devoted following). Whether a MT or an auto XT, you should be able to get a couple of thousand off, maybe a little more if there is no warranty.
The asking price is not so out of line as to rule out a test drive, carfax and mechanic's checkup. If it passes all 3, you're then ready to negotiate in confidence. Good luck.
If you don't mind, can you tell me what price did you pay for the 3.6R Limited and for what options?
Regards
Maybe I should play it safe and restrict my buying only to cars that still have some of the factory warranty.
In this case, no warranty means you have to get it inspected by a mechanic. Ask the dealer if its ok - if not, then walk, but say that because of the turbo, you want to have it checked. If they ok the inspection, it will be the best $75-100 investment you can make. Then you'll be ready to negotiate. Take your time, start low, walk out at least once, or bring along an experienced negotiator.
You can buy a great used car. In March 05, I bought a like-new 02 Chevy Prizm with 25K miles on it for 5250 cash (several walk-outs and call backs) from a Chrysler-Jeep dealer who took it in trade locally & wanted 10,299. I drove it for 4 years without a single problem, Now my daughter is driving it at 99K miles and it still has been problem-free. I've done that many times - this is just the most recent, because my more recent purchases have both been new subarus.
Good luck!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9c851/38992#MSG38992
There are pros there who work in dealerships and can give you the wholesale value, as well as a reasonable markup for a sale.
OTOH I'd use the lack of stabiltiy control as a negotiation tactic to try to get the seller to knock some more off the price. Make sure that there are good service records, COMPLETE and if it's within a year or 10,000 miles of needing any of the "major" services that they do those or knock 120% of the cost of same off the price. Insist on new tires and no chips in the windscreen too.
easypar
I am in Madison, CT. Any tip on CT dealer? I am new to Subaru.
I wouldn't make lack of it a deal killer, I had no TC/VDC on any car until I bought my '09 Outback Ltd. last July. It's nice to have, to be sure, but in any case you must realize that AWD will never overcome the laws of physics and it is in no way a free pass to drive less than prudently for conditions.
Good luck on the hunt....
Stability control is a plus, absolutely.
But...so is a long-travel suspension that keeps the tires on the ground. Plus AWD. Plus the limited-slip rear diff on many models, prior to the arrival of VDC.
Subarus were traction specialists before stability control even existed.
Even with the strong sales I didn't have any trouble getting one for less than invoice and I know of at least one person who got a few hundred better than I did.
Once I had decided on the color/interior combo they looked to see how many were in the Denver distribution center, picked it up the next day and added the the splash guards, wind deflectors etc. They didn't balk about the price.
Good luck.
easypar
* 2010 Subaru Outback, 4 cylinder, Premium, CVT
* All Weather package with moon roof (Option Code "06")
* Conv / Protect 1B - Wheel arch moldings, splash guards, rear bumper cover (Option code "LN8")
* All Weather floor mats (Option Code "B0A")
* Partial Zero Emission or PZEV -required in PA,NJ,NY
* Destination Charge
MSRP: $28,437
Invoice: $26,586
Selling Price: $25,826
Discount (under invoice): -$760
Doc fee: $120
PA Transit fee: $5
PA Tire Tax: $5
NJ Sales Tax (7%): $1807.92
NJ DMV Title fee: $60
NJ DMV Registration (plate transfer) fee: $24
TOTAL: $27,847.92
I made a very detailed buying experience if anyone's interested... (allthumbsdiy.com/misc-01-buying-a-car.html).
Good luck with your purchase!
I'm in Colorado too.
What dealer do you use?
Thanks!
Once I had a good price from the others I told Loveland and asked them to match it, they were within $150 so I thought that was OK. Greeley and of course Neuberger in Colorado Springs all show discounted prices on their web sites. Neuberger claims, and probably true that they are the volume leader in the state.
This is only the second new car I've ever had, wife's Lexus was first and I spent more than a bit of time looking at others before deciding on the Legacy.
Good luck.
easypar
The dealer in Ramsey, NJ had the color Outback I wanted and after weeks of email and phone negotiation, finally arrived at a price I was willing to pay; $28,500 with roof - only because he had it in stock, and it was the color I wanted. This was mid-December.
When I agreed to make the deal, the add on (dealer documentation) costs totaled up to close to $600 and when I questioned those, I was told, that's it - take it or leave it. According to NJDMV, doc costs were around $130. Needless to say, I did'nt take it.
Two weeks later, I broke down and on new years eve day, I callled the dealer to go and buy the car - with a bank check in hand. When I called and spoke to the supposed "sales manager", he says to me: "I'm not interested in selling you a car". I told him he was a good business man, a credit to his employer, and good luck.
Can you believe it?
I finally have a Vehicle Order Number (VON) and hope the new rate still applies when our car gets delivered - latest "estimate" from SNE is end Jan or early Feb.
Have you considered getting quotes (including all fees and taxes) from dealers via the internet - and then go in and purchase? My last 4 vehicles have all been purchased this way... I knew in advance, exactly what I was going to pay and all I had to do was review the numbers, sign the paperwork and then drive off.
It might be easier for you - then to physically go to dealerships.
The next few months with no government incentives to bring customers in will be pay back time for the dealers who played games with the public vs the ones that offered up front and honest deals.
Thats one of the values of this forum
What is the invoice price.
Get internet pricing for the model you want.
Does anyone have that specific model in stock or will it need to be ordered. Check the web sites yourself.
Get a firm quote of dealer out the door costs.
Negotiate price first - not payments. The 2.9 % is available if your credit rating is OK.
The dealer doesn't really want you to leave without your order, you want the best price, preparation on your part will let you get the best deal possible for your circumstances.
- Edmunds.com new car pricing
-Truecar.com
Several dealerships show online pricing - google Van Bortel, NY and build your car - their online system said they would sell a car "like" the one you are looking for which had a list of $25,790 MSRP including destination- for $24.038 + docs fees. DMV and state taxes.
The place where the dealers try to stick it to you is their documentation and other fees, find out ahead of time what they are and if they are controlled in your state - can vary from less than $200 to $695 - some dealers do more for you than others.
Only you know the detailed spec - search the invoice pricing and get actual internet pricing offers and then, only then sit down with the dealer.
Typically, you will get a better price for a new order, when dealers "find a car" its a like horse trading you pay for the convenience.
Some give a better price for cash deals others like financing because they get commission.
Finally when you buy the car the dealer will try to sell you all kinds of extras - high profit for him - high price for you - if you want extended warranties google them and search ebay you will be surprised!
Good luck
prices vary depending on small add ons (cargo nets, floor mats), but someone here once said they bough one for $25.5 (w moon roof) but don't know where, when, etc.
We just bought one at the end of December for 26k+tax+title (check my post here http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef17adf/2332#MSG2332)
Most Central NJ and Northern NJ dealers are not willing to deal under invoice.
I recommend the PA dealer I bought it from, Becker, but Liberty Subaru is a volume dealer so you may luck out there as well.
I strongly DO NOT RECOMMEND Morristown Subaru. I found them to be disingenuous (at best) during negotiations.
I am considering a used 2009 subaru limited and want to get your thought as to what would be the fair price for the following:
1 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 17K miles - current sticker price 25,500
2 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 24K miles - current sticker price 24,000
I believe that the invoice for a new 2009 subaru limited in the past was 27K. Having said that, I believe there were incentive in the past. I am not sure if this can be a factor in negotiation. Is it reasonable to offer 22K to begin?
Your thoughts and opinion would be greatly appreciated.