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Lincoln LS: Problems & Solutions
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Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
Need help with this.
1) I have a clunking sound in the front end. I had a similar sound about 2 years ago. Dealer replaced sway bar links at that time under warrantee. Now of course no warrantee. So my service guy diagnosed the problem this time as worn sway bar bushings. (Not the ones at the links, but the ones at the frame attachment.) OK fine, says I, I'll replace the $12.00 bushings myself. Not so fast says the tech! Ford has put out a TSB on the sway bar and bushings. Don't know the TSB # but what it says (according to the techs at 2 dealers) is that if an LS comes in with worn sway bar bushnigs, a *new design* sway bar and bushings *must* be installed. NO REPLACEMENT BUSHINGS for the OEM sway bar can be sold. Cost of parts: $130 or so. Cost installed? Around $700. Who pays? ME. Can I install the new parts myself? Only if I'm able to 'drop the whole front end to get to the sway bar'. The tech says even with worn bushings this is NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. So WHY won't Ford sell me the bushings??? So, to summarize: Ford sold me a bad design. Ford won't sell replacement parts for the bad design. They will happily charge me $700 to put in a new design. What a deal, huh? (For those who say just go somewhere esle to get them - fine, you tell mne where. I have been unable so far to find a parts store that has even a part number for these things.)
To be Continued ...
To be continued ...
4) So today, I was going to do the rear pads, then take the car to the dealer to get the drain plug out, the oil changed and the brake fluid changed too - seems like a good idea at this time - and I can't do it cause you need a Ford diagnostic machine to bleed the brakes. Since no rotors were to be changed this time I figured it'd be fairly quick and easy. Famous last words, eh? Same horrible problem trying to get the wheel lug nuts off. Finally get them loose on one side and jack it up. Off with the wheel and caliper and yeah, these pads are pretty much due as well. So I get out my $17.95 NAPA piston retractor and try and try to turn the piston back (as described in the sertv manu) with no luck. Finally I search here and see a msg from our bud akirby that I must exert extreme force on the piston while turning the retraction tool. (Never done rear disks before). Well, I find that virtually impossible to do. I can't pull the caliper off to put it in a vise because of the bleed problem. I come up with the idea of remounting the caliper after first pulling the anchor and the rotor then remounting the anchor and the caliper and trying to force the piston back that way, but by this point, I'm fed up and besides, the seal on this piston seems to be leaking as the inboard shoe is covered with wet greasy goo and - again, no can bleed the system at home - so I decide the dealer should do the rear brakes and seal and change the fluid and bleed. SO I arrange to do that and put it back together.
Another rant - has anyone else got the Ford service manual DVD? What a POS that is. The pencil drawings are so pathetic that I doubt even the guy that drew them could decipher them at this point. And the step by step instructions omit so much information as to be next to useless.
Oh well. I guess I would still recommend the car - but I would recommend buying an extended warantee (I didn't, figuring the auto tranny was the most troublesome thing on the car and I've got a 5 speed.) Bad idea. Then sell at 100K cause IMHO this car is going to be quite difficult to maintain.
The brakes can be bled in the conventional way, as long as you have a helper, and turn on the ignition when you do the job. If your car has Advance Trac, the ABS solenoids, which control the AT, have to be energized when you push the brake pedal, otherwise you won't get any fluid flow. I know this from personal experience. I flush my brake fluid annually.
The lug nut issue, unfortunately, is well known, and not exclusive to FoMoCo. GM was using "shiny wrapped" lug nuts on it's "rally wheels" back in the 70s. The best way to get around this issue is to use the Chrysler Sebring lug nuts, however they have a different hex size, so you have to carry an extra lug wrench.
I'm dissappointed that L-M decided to cancel the car, as service issues with the dealers have been an issue in general, and will probably only worsen now that the car is an "orphan". While my LS is now 6 years old, I don't have a lot of miles on it (44K), so it will probably either "rust out", or "problem out" long before it wears out. BUT, it's a hoot while it lasts.
I've had several problems with it and its really getting on my nerves.
When I was 2K miles away from my warrenty going out, I took it to the Lincoln dealership here and asked them to check the car over and told them I heard a weird noise on 2 of my windows when I would open and close them. Well, they supposedly checked my car, told me everything was fine- something minor was replaced.
The very next week, I had my drivers side window down and bam! it wouldn't come back up and it sounded like my window had broken inside the door. Back to the dealership I went and they told me they'd had a lot of problems with the window's on the LS's. It costs me 395 bucks to get it fixed..AND 2 of my other windows make that same noise, so I'm afraid to use them!
Then my brakes needed fixed, they were making that horrible noise that brakes make.
Then, the stupid door handle broke on the driver's side door, I have to roll the window down to open the freaking door and grrr, of course if I use the window enough its eventually going to fall down into the door frame and it will costs me MORE money.
WHAT can I do? I love and hate this car all at the same time. I had a Mustang for almost 7 years and NEVER had one problem with it.. this is driving me nuts!
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Connie
The good news on the window regulators is that the rears almost always fail before the driver's window so chances are the rears have already been replaced, and if they were done right they should be ok. They don't usually make a noise before they fail so that may be something else. If they do fail, you can get the regulator without the motor for about $30 and it only takes 1-2 hours to replace one if you have a good mechanic or handyman. One thing you can do to prevent failure is to use the rear windows often. What happens is the glass seals to rubber weatherstripping, putting a strain on the regulator when you let the window down. Rolling it down often prevents the glass from sticking thus reducing the strain and preventing failure.
Once the door handle is replaced it should be ok - common problem fixed with a redesigned, stronger part.
The rest of the car is pretty solid - it's not going to fall apart if that's what you're worried about. Most of the early problems were already fixed for the 2001 models.
Not saying it won't work, but I'd be careful not to overload it.
I am new on the site, but think excellent way to exchange views. I have 2000 LS V6, with overheating problem. I checked the pressure from the hydraulic pump and believe pump is faulty. I have bought a Jaguar electric fan and shroud which are direct fit. I am going to fit fan switch to cooling system, the temp setting is 200 degrees on 190f off.My concern is how to connect up the A/C? do i take power from the compressor, and is the signal to the compressor ground or power? The original signal to the pump was something of a variable ground from the computor.
Need Help.
Thanks
The people who wrote most of the postings on this board: 1) leased & may or may not know how to find the oil dipstick, 2) spent a week or three on here to learn what they could, 3) moved elsewhere to an enthusiast board where questions like yours are addressed, or 4) took the gas pipe after they saw how the LS turned out relative to how it was introduced in 1999.
That said, the people who end up with used LS's (like yourself) appear to be willing to do things that no one who's posted here more than twice have ever thought of, let alone actually executed.
Good luck.
Good Luck.
What type of 3.0L V-6 is in the LS? Is it the Duratec that was used in Taurus ( turned the right way in engine bay?!) Does have timing belt or chain? My guess is that it uses a belt. Is this interferance type engine? if the belt goes, so do the valves, pistons.... or is it free spinning type?
What weight oil is the best? How easy is it to get to spark plugs? It has the 235-50/17 tires. What is the best brand tires that lasts and is quiet? Right now it has the Firehawks on it that are kind of noisy. How is this car on snow and ice?
I am so surprize as how little storage is in this car. I don't understand why they put the CD magazine in glove box. The center console is the smallest of any car I have ever seen.
and finally ....What is the best website to get OEM spare parts?
Thanks.
Joe
The V6 is a Duratec 3.0L DOHC but it's very different from the other applications. For one it's mounted longitudinally because the LS is RWD. I'm pretty sure it still uses a timing chain - no belt to change.
The car came with 5W30 oil but Ford later switched to 5W20 for better gas mileage. Motorcraft 5W20 is a semi-synthetic and is fine although just about any oil is ok if you change it every 5K. Mobil1 5W30 would also work if you want full synthetic.
The spark plugs aren't too bad to get to but they're not a piece of cake, either.
For tires you have several choices. The Michelin Pilot Sport A/S is a great tire but expensive. For a cheaper but almost as good alternative look at Avon Tech. Go to tirerack.com and do a size search and you'll find lots of choices. Be sure to check the tire surveys if you're looking at something other than the ones above. Some are ok and some are really bad.
The car is fine on snow and ice if you have winter tires. You can get a set of tires and 16" wheels from tirerack.com (you don't need to use 17" wheels and tires - 16" is just as good and far cheaper with more choices). The non sport LS came with 16" wheels - tell it you have a base model V6 LS and it should give you the right size. The outside diameters are all the same.
If you can find a used 2003 model you'll get more power (they added VCT to both the V6 and V8), more storage (totally redesigned center console and in dash cd changer) and a whole bunch of other improvements including an electric parking brake that works great. And it shouldn't be that much more money.
For OEM parts I use Bill Jenkins at Team Ford in Las Vegas. Bill.Jenkins@teamfordlv.com . Great service and prices.
The spark plugs are a bugger. I've done it 3 times and my best time is about 3 hours, start to finish. It's not that it's hard, just a lot of stuff has to be removed and put back. The intake plenum hangs over the right side of the engine which means it has to be removed. Along with the shock tower brace and all the stuff attached to the plenum.
The engine uses a chain (you can see it if you remove the oil fill cap and look forward), but I don't know if the Duratec is an interference engine or not. It is a variation of the Taurus/Sable Duratec.
I've been using 5W-20 Mobil1, changing the filter every 5K and the oil every 10K.
I'm currently running General Exclaim UHPs, size 245/40/18. I don't think they come in the stock size, but 245/45/17 is a Lincoln approved substitute.
I'm with Allen. I don't know what they are asking for the V6, but check ebay and see what what the going rate is on the '03 and later LSes.
For tires, while I only need two, I am going with 235/50-17 Kumho ECSTA ASX. The Tire Rack write up is very good. Four tires, balanced, ready to go at $505. I live only 45 minutes from Tire Rack. I could not see spending $350 for two Firehawk LHs that don't have as high as a rating.
The LS at some 3640 Ibs.feels heavy. It drives fine on Highway, but steering/front end acts rough in slight bumps. I also have a 2001 E430 with 74K miles. The MB feels lighter at 3750Ibs. The MB with 245/45-17 tires rides soft without being floaty. The LS drives heavy and stiff. In LS, Is 17 wheel/tire a part of sport package or sport package was a separate option all together?
Is there anyway to bypass the driver seat power slide back when the key is removed? It puts unnecessary wear and tear on seat motor as it has started to get noisy.
For oil weight, owner's manual says use 5W20 or 10W30. Under the hood sticker says use 5W30. I will go with 5W30 with 3K change interval. I don't get the hydraulic radiator fan. Electric fan is much simpler and lighter.
LS is a good looking car. I like the wiper defrost strip. They do wonder in ice and snow. We had it in our Dodge Caravan.
I am sue I will have more questions as time goes by.
Joe
5W30 is what the car came with originally. Ford changed to 5W20 later and updated the OMs but I continued to use 5W30 in my 2000 LS until I sold it. 3K is great but you can easily go 5K between changes with no problems.
The reason for the hydraulic fan is there was not enough juice left to run an electric fan (reliably). That was fixed for the 2003 models. One benefit is it's very quiet when it's working properly.
For license plate bulb, do I need to pull back the liner in trunk lid? If so, I don't understand why they did not use reusable plastic push pins instead of the ones they have used.
The owner's manual says to see a dealer for replacing several different bulbs, but it does show how to replace cabin filter. I have ordered the service manual.
Thanks,
Joe
If you're using a Ford dealer instead of a Lincoln dealer that may be part of the problem. Try to find another Lincoln dealer. I'm sure they'll fix it for you.
Did the Lincoln 800 number folks blow you off? Not that it would surprise me, but this car has 32000 miles and 2 years left on it's warrantte and MUST be fixed.
Second, they should both just 'pop' back on. If they don't, something is missing or broken. Still, the operative word is warrantee.
Anyone know of a way to bring this to the attention of Ford's upstream service folks so they could investigate service records to determine if this is happening at an abnormal rate?