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Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions
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I know they are different cars, but the 350Z, G35, EVO, and STi are all in the 270-300hp range now. Think of we're they'll all be in 3-4 years when the supposed RX-7 comes out!
Plus, the base WRX and SRT-4, both with 4 doors, are surpassing the RX-8 in power output now!
I prefer handling myself, but big hp tends to sell cars here in the States.
Question: what does reving the engine to 3K before shut off do to eliminate stalling? If I get off the highway, going at 4K or 5K and then pull into my driveway and then turn off, would she stall? I can't see how reving it would do anything to cure stalling the next day. But, I am a graphic artist and not a mechanic; I defer to those with more mechanical experience!!
( I have a feeling GGuy is going to tell me it was "Knock-out Gas" and I am still out, hidden away on a secret island of some mad, evil genius, bent on world destruction.)
It's normal, especially if the air outside is very humid. I've seen it when driving through pockets of humidity trapped in valleys on hilly roads. It's kind of cool (pun intended...feel free to groan).
P.S. It was a high temp of 43 degree's today in Philly! I couldn't even think of a/c right now.. Wish I was wherever you are...
Took it to the dealer for the bogging above 6,000 and another RX8 pulled in behind me...for the same problem! Said this was his second time in for that issue. The dealer didn't have a fix from Mazda for this yet...and simply reset part of the engine software. They did this by turning the ignition key to "on" (but not starting the car) and then depressing the brake pedal 20 times in 8 seconds. Apparently this is their "fix" for now. It acted fine for a few days, but is now back.
Part of the "joy" of a 9,000 redline is actually getting to use it...but until this nastiness above 6,000 gets fixed it's not much fun at all. Anyone else experiencing this same issue? And if so, what have you been told by your dealer/Mazda? They revealed their temporary fix to me so I wouldn't have to keep bringing it in every time it did this...but surely there's an actual solution to this issue besides a brake pedal aerobic workout every few days.
Thanks for any insight.
I have noticed the last two mornings that when I start my vehicle the engine coolant level warning light comes on briefly. It looks like my coolant level is a bit low. I find that a little strange since I've only had the car for 2 1/2 weeks and have a total of 850 miles on it. I would have thought that the dealer would have all of the fluid levels proper. If so why have I lost that much coolant already? I thought that the oil was the thing to watch, no issue there.....yet.
Anyway, I have not experienced the power loss that you are describing, but I may push the revs more to see what happens tomorrow.
Your question caught my attention and got me wondering if the two may not somehow be related.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I haven't had any coolant issues but will watch for it. Might try topping it off under your own eye and monitoring the levels from there. Could certainly have been low from dealer....
The dealer (service manager) feels that there is something going on with the car that will have to be corrected by Mazda. I am currently waiting to hear back from the dealer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
This whole explanation doesn't really fly with me as all I did was turn the ignition to start the car. Car started but died after 3 seconds and then would not start again. I didn't touch the gas pedal. Don't understand how I could have flooded the car. (prior to starting, car was left outside for 36 hours in 20-30 degree weather)
They gave me a zerox copy of page in owners manual that tells you how to start the car when it is flooded. You hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the ignition for up to 10 seconds and car is supposed to start (you immediately take foot off gas pedal when it starts).
In any event I am very skeptical about what kind of problems I am going to have with this car as the years go by. If it is has this problem when it is one month old, I'm very aprehensive about what the future holds.
I always warm the car up before driving off, about 30-45sec of idling. As soon as the engine is warm (3 to 5 minutes of 3~5krpms) I drive it like I ride my motorcycle, that is vary rpm's, rev it alot, hit 8000rpm often. These motors need to rev, riding around at 3 or 4K will clog them up. Ask the RX7 people, these engines need to rev to keep them clean.
I haven't experienced the problems of check engine light or coolent leaks - I drive pretty hard and my only complaint is the dsc defaults to the on postion - I'd rather have it off ; ) I have added a quart of oil to the car and am patiently waiting for my carbon fiber look bra, because the front end is beginning to look a bit pockmarked. I am very happy with the power, not that I wouldn't mind more, but cars just aren't in the same league as bikes, if you want to feel scary acceleration, get a bike. I've never had the car above 135mph, it felt stable but a little light at that speed, anyone get it to 148? What does it feel like at that speed?
The 6000rpm issue may be the auxiliary port valve is sticking, this is supposed to open at 6250rpm. At 7250rpm the variable intake valve and the variable fresh air duct open up. This is why it is a good idea to rev the engine to keep all of these valves operational.
I love the RX8 and will be looking for the RX7 when it debuts.
Drive fast, Drive safe. They can go together.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Mazda Service Department tells me the problem is the PCM. This is the Powertrain Control Module, or the circuit board that is the brains to the car. They tell me Mazda is redesigning the board, and that I'll have to wait for it to be productionalized, built, and shipped. Mazda cannot give me a date.
Seems to me that this would be the resolution to many of the problems I read here. Is Mazda blowing me smoke, or has anyone else heard of the faulty PCM circuit board?
In order to satisfy catalytic converter longevity performance standards (at 50k and 100k+), it is believed Mazda had to make a last minute fix...possibly while cars were already in the process of being shipped. Because of obvious time constraints, the fire drill "fix" was to reprogram the ECU to run (too) rich of a fuel mixture. A richer mixture results in cooler exhaust, which in theory extends the life of the cat.
This is ESPECIALLY the case below 3500 rpm and ABOVE 6000 rpm. Note the sooty exhaust tips. In between it actually runs on the lean side. The drop in HP is related, as is the lower than expected MPG numbers. Individual tuners are leading the charge here in an effort to reclaim the lost HP and "restore" the car's driveablility via corrected air/fuel mix programming. Obviously it's a complex and time consuming effort.
Mazda is in a bit of a predicament on this. They have not admitted what they did to satisfy the last minute ECU issues. Doing so might also make them have to redress the MPG figures. A real fix from Mazda could be provided (after sufficient internal development) that could be administered in the form of a reflash of the ECU. Mazda had to do something similar for the MazdaSpeed Protege, which they did rather quietly.
Again I'm not an expert on this (read, don't shoot the messenger) but have learned much from other sites that are discussing this at length. I share this in an effort to raise owners' awareness of a problem Mazda HQ needs to address - publicly and quickly. Educate yourself to the extent you can, and then act as you're moved. The car is too great for us, and too important to Mazda, to sweep a handicapping, last minute, band aid fix under the rug.
Is this burning oil smell normal for a new rotary, if so, does it go away?
Other than that little quibble, I love the car.
No Stalling as of yet
Loud cluck when engaging first gear from dead stop?
MPG around 17
Took it on a 250 mile trip....oil light on and off every 20-35 minutes if mph over 70...below 70 no oil light...
Are the dealers offering a fix for that yet??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
-stalling...if you flood the car (which can be done on any car), hold the accelerator to the floor and crank until it starts. This isn't a problem as any piston engine and computer controlled fuel delivery can cause this "hiccup".
-A/C...yes, it does cycle between frosty cold and cool air. Don't know if it's something to fix, but it results from Mazda offering "auto climate control" in units deliverd outside of North America. Some of the electronics (with the exception of the "auto climate") being part of the worldwide RX8 cars that causes the A/C cycling once it gets to the temp you set on your temp knob.
-oil light...known problem fixed by installing baffles in your oil pan. Warranty issue that is an easy fix from your dealer
-"clunk" sound when starting off....normal sound. It's the ABS calibrating itself.
-different sound with clutch in/out....normal, nothing wrong...just the different sound the clutch and throw-out bearings make when engaged/disengaged
-MPG...this one is all over the map. In general, rotaries don't hit peak MPG until they get some miles on them. Personally, I'm getting 18 MPG in town and 24 MPG on all highway, which is exactly what the MSRP sticker says I sould get. Mine started out pretty dismal, though.
-front speakers cutting out...sounds like a short in the wiring. Get your dealer to fix.
-CEL (check engine light)...could be many things. First, make sure you always tighten your gas cap (3-4 clicks) when you fill-up as this will trigger the emmissions computer if loose (true of any recent car). After that, it gets a bit trickier. Some early builds had to have the Engine Control Units (ECU) reflashed because of the catalytic converters as prevously stated. This cause a few units to send false readings to the EVAP units, setting off the CEL. EVAP units are replaced under warranty. Thermostats will do different things in different climates. It's very rare for thermostats to be "bad". This can also trigger the CEL if readings aren't within spec. Personally, I think dealer service people go to the "fix" that is easiest and the one that takes the least amount of research. Therefore, they blame the thermostat for CEL, since it's easy. You need a tech who is "up-to-date" in their training to do the correct fix instead of the easy fix.
Less then 10 000 km on the car!!!!!!
entire subframe, engine, transmission, exhaust dropped to do the repair.....anyone else have this problem?
beacon...I'll assume that you had a CEL? The very first thing the tech should have checked was the gascap. I certainly haven't heard of any manifold leaks. If there was one, then either there are holes in the manifold (not likely) or the manifold gasket wasn't seated correctly or faulty. If that was the case, the problem would have manifested itself immediately. Did they test the EVAP?
Given how far back and low the engine is located, it wouldn't surprise me that they'd have to drop the engine to get to the manifold, if that was indeed the problem.
I did not buy it.
The tech has super rotor knowledge. He replaced turbo's, engine, waterpumps, exhaust, brakes, alarm system, interior trim on my 1993 turbo all under warranty. Bought this one despite all the previous generation problems because it still is one of the best rides out there for the money. Got rid of a TT 225 for it, like it better then my 1997 C5......but these problems are scary!
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/docs/01_027_03.htm
TSB for "CEL":
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/docs/01-024-03.html
This one mainly calls for the PCM (EVAP) to be reprogrammed.
beacon...this may solve your problem as it solved mine (they actually replaced and reprogrammed mine).
I know a few people that would disagree with you about the amount of knowledge I carry around in my noggin.
BTW...I saw your post about the horn/alarm. You've stumped me. Short of putting a less loud aftermarket horn in it, I don't know how to turn its volume down.....
Thanks for your input!
Keep the story going. CEL came on last night. It is back in the shop. Heard a slight swoosh sound on acceleration like "an intake leak."
Seems to me they are making mountains out of molehills.
You also might want to ask them if they have the correct diagnostic tools to make the repair in the TSB. The only reason I can figure that they wouldn't have tried reprogramming the PCM first would be that they haven't made the investment in the equipment to do so.
As another avenue, take your RX8 to another Mazda dealer for diagnosis.
They apparently did a re-program well before the intake manifold was changed.
I am actually on hold to service with your advice!
Hope you are right.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
qbrozen....you crack me up!!!!!!!!!;-)
That's why I know that the "flooding" issue is real, Bonnie. It's not a huge problem, but more than a few people have experienced it.
You just have to follow a procedure to ensure that it doesn't happen. After a cold start, ALWAYS let your car warm up to normal operating temperature before shutting it off. As I'm sure you've noticed, normal operating temperature is when the temp guage needle is just below the halfway mark. Once the car reaches normal operating temp. rev it to 3000 rpm for 10 seconds and then shut it off.
This procedure is outlined in the Quick Tips leaflet you should've gotten when you bought the car. At least I got one.
By the way, there have been a couple times I've forgotten to do this and shut the engine off cold and the car didn't flood. But after hearing of other people having to have their cars towed to the dealer, I follow this procedure religiously now.
If you drive the car for a few miles, it should warm up just fine, unless it's seriously cold out. This is more a situation where move the car from the garage to wash it or something.
It's just a case of people needing to be educated about the quirks of the rotary and getting into some habits that will make owning the car a more trouble-free experience.