"No Start" Problems

stevechilds · June 2005

4.0 six cylinder engine

alcan · June 2005

Check with your dealer re an updated crankshaft position sensor and harness. Some had problems with the sensor failing, others with the harness picking up EMI from the starter and skewing the signal to the ECM. The replacement re-routes the harness.

yourabadjeep · June 2005

Can anyone help me? I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the V8 it has 65000 miles. Last week I turned my key to start it and nothing happened. I tried again a few times and it started. I took it in and had the battery checked and it was fine. This morning I went to start my car no sound just dead silence. Then when I turned the key to the off posistion my gauges starting going crazy and the engine lightgs all came on there was a loud buzz coming from under the dash on the drivers side and the light under the dash by the steering wheel was flickering off and on. It was like the car was posessed. I turned the key to on and the gauges went back to normal. I turned the key off again and they did the same thing. I went in to get some tools to disconect the battery. I made a call and about ten minutes later I tried it again and it started but would not stay running unless I put my foot on the gas. Eventually after starting it several times it stayed running but there was a loud sound coming from the black thing in the center of my engine that sound like it was sucking air.
I got in it this afternoon and drove it around and everything was normal. I've only had this car since Feb and I have never experienced anything like this before. Has anyone ever done the same? Your help is much appreciated.

dz1981dpl · June 2005

I have a problem the water pump on my 94 buck regal went bad. I replaced it. then try to fire it up and didn't start. Pulled fuel pump and it was burned up. replaced it and the wires that burnt to. Now it pumped gas and would start up but shut right back down. Now, been tryin to figure the problem out but the new fuel pump stoped workin. Could the crank sensor be bad and sending a backward serge. The water pump was leakin bad and did leak on the sensor. I haven't replaced it. don't know why the pump keeps burnin and it took a lil while before it went out but i was messing with the car trying to fuigure out why it stop runin. Any advise could help be appreciated. thank u dz1981dpl@yahoo.com

stevechilds · June 2005

Thank you all for your help and ideas... I finally found the problem, or at least I hope I did! It was a vacuum line that had come loose. I tightened this up and it started right up and has been running just fine ever since. Amazing how something so simple can cause such a headache!!

pkrdfair · June 2005

My 2002 Chrysler Town and Country that I just purchased used 4 weeks ago with 36,000 miles has been experiencing a no start condition. The first time the dealer replaced an electronic component under the hood next to the battery. This time they cannot recreate the problem. It has happened both times at my house. Once in my garage and once in the driveway. When I turn the key the dash lights come on and all electronics work. When i turn the key all the way to start the vehicle everything goes dead and there is no sound from under the hood. I talked with the previous owner and they never had any similar problems. Any suggestions?

cnps · June 2005

I have a 1998 Intrepid. Over the last few years, intermittently it won't start. You turn the key and you hear a click. If you turn the key over and over again it will finally start. It happened very rarely at first. Now at least once or twice a day. And it is harder to get it to start. Sometimes it takes a couple of days of trying. Went to see the dealer. They say it could cost up to a few thousand dollars to figure out and solve the problem. Any suggestions? I really need help on this one.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2005

Well help the dealer out here and have the dealer check the starter solenoid or starter motor. Geez, do they need to be hit over the head with these classic symptoms of starter failure?

isabel · June 2005

My T&C recently has required occasional jump start in recent weeks. Today was dead and would not jump start. Lights worked and battery seemed ok but no noise at all when turned key except faint clicking under the hood from area below or near fuse/relay box. Mechanic said starter was fine when tested. Later today battery power seemed to be fading. Engine light does not come on when key is first turned on as it is supposed to do. Mechanic plans to computer diagnose in A.M. since today was Sunday and the main shop with computer was not accessible. Any suggestions to avoid another day in the shop ??

Mr_Shiftright · June 2005

Sounds like a dying battery. How old is this battery?

isabel · June 2005

The battery is 5 years old. Yes, it's past its estimated life, but it has been tested at two different places and it tests out fine. They also say the alternator and the starter are ok. All three of these items work independently. The last thing I was told is that the starter seems to not be getting the juice it needs to crank the engine. So they can't find a clear problem with the starter, alternator, or battery and are hoping the computer will diagnose something. Their being unable to figure out the cause concerns me. After good battery power initially and still being unable to start the car, by the end of the day the battery power was too low to operate the windows. However, a new battery was put in and the car still wouldn't jump start so they determined it wasn't the battery. What about that engine light?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2005

Well it's hard for me to guess without being there and without seeing how they did the diagnostic and if they left anything out of their thinking, such as....did they try and by-pass the ignition switch and crank the starter with a remote starter switch? If the starter cranks with their remote starter switch, then they work backwards from the starter to the ignition switch, and if that checks out then backwards toward the battery through the fuse box etc.

isabel · June 2005

The car was towed to dealer since shop couldn't figure it out. Dealer determined that one of the computers was bad and had to be replaced. Couldn't start the car with any kind of by-pass. The part was over $800, but fortunately this (and labor) seems to be covered by some basic Chrysler warranty on emission system (we have no extended warranty). We just don't have a car for a week while they wait for the part from their national supply location. We are hoping this actually is the cause of the problem.

tarjah · June 2005

This past weekend, my '97 Saturn SL2 had a hard time turning over. On Saturday, Sunday, and again today, I went to start my car for the first time each day, and it took at least four tries for it to finally flip over. I had the battery checked, and everything was fine. The battery is only one year old. I live in Florida, so I don't know if the heat makes a difference. Anyhow, by the time my car finally did start each morning, the radio stations and the clock were both reset. I called the dealer, and he said that it is definitely the battery, however, I think it might have to do with the wiring. Based on this information, what would your diagnosis be? Also, I have had problems with certain companies in the past, so for the past year, I have taken my car to Saturn for repairs. Can you tell me how much I should anticipate to pay on getting my problem fixed, so that I can find another mechanic to repair my car if necessary?

ftaylor · June 2005

Hi everyone, I'm new to the board and hope someone can help or at least point me in the right direction. First, I am the owner of a 89 Bonneville with about 157,0000 miles, I've never really had much problem out of the car until recently. The transmission I suspect is going out, when I put the car in drive it pulls but slowly, and because I was pretty far from home I found that when I put it in 2nd I was able to get up to 40mph. I am a single mom so getting this fixed right away was not an option. So I've had to drive it this way to and from work for about a month so far. A neighbor suggested that it could be that the transmission filter needs to changed and that's the reason it won't really pull in drive ( I've never had it changed since I purchased the car about 2 1/2 years ago.). I'm open to any suggestions, and am praying that I don't need to replace the transmission.
Problem #2
While driving my trusted car last night, crazy me for got to get gas and you guessed it, ran out on some errands. A car behind was nice enough to take me to get gas but, after putting gas in the car it still would not start. We tried everything, giving it more gas, battery boosting and eventually I went and purchased a new battery but still nothing. A few times I thought that it was going to start but it just would not turn over. The guy from AAA said because it was fuel injection it was a little harder to start. We tried for about 2hr. to get the car started before I decided to tow it home. The does need a tune-up ,and a few other maintence things done as you can tell but right now I don't know where to start. I need to get to work and was really surprised that the car did not start after we put gas in. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.

campolojr1 · June 2005

Hey everyone I have a '92 Buick Lesabre and it has been running like a beast for two years it has 201,432 miles and I was driving and it just stopped so i looked into it and i installed a new module that sits under the three coil packs because i wasnt getting spark and someone told me that was it but then a mechanic told me it could be the crack shaft position sensor but i replaced that brain box and it still dies does anyone know how to help

ky_jeep_lady · July 2005

i have a 95 jeep grande cherokee that wont start. i turn the key on and it wont do anything. the lights and all come on but the motor wont turn. we checked the fuses and there all good so its not that. so could someone please help me? :sick:

rljes · July 2005

My 94 GMC Safari will not start. The fuel pump will not energize when the key is turned on. I'm positive the fuel pump and relay are good. The wiring from the relay to the pump is good. The engine turns over fine but won't start. I've changed the ECM because it didn't illuminate the Service Engine Light, also it didn't allow me to check for fault codes through the dash light. All of my fuses are good. I'm stuck, need help

flybaby · July 2005

Hi There,
I own a 97 GMC savana van and whilst driving along it just stops !!!!, smoetimes i will re start and other times it wont,
THINGS THAT WE HAVE DONE:
1: CHECKED THE FUEL PUMP RELAY
2: NO FAULT FOUND FROM DIAOGNOSTIC CHECK
I HAVE ORDRED A NEW FUEL PUMP AS THE GARAGE SAID THEY HAD RUN A DIRECT FEED FROM THE BATTERY TO THE FUEL PUMP AND IT STILL CUT OUT !!!!

CAN ANYONE CONFIRM THIS MIGHT BE THE CAUSE ?????
:sick: :confuse:

:mad:

alcan · July 2005

Have the crankshaft position sensor checked.

flybaby · July 2005

Thanks for the input,
How do i get it checked the, diognostic check found no fault, would the crankshaft position sensor show up. :mad: :confuse: :sick:

msdaddy · July 2005

The only time I can't start is on a hot day after a short drive, and less than an hour has passed before I attempt to restart the car. If I wait for more than an hour it starts right up every time. When the problem occurs there is no clicking sound, but the battery is only a few months old and tests as fully charged. When the problem occurs there are no indications that the battery is weak. The alternator also tests good so I don't think it is a problem with the charging system. I assume since there is no click sound that the starter solenoid is not engaging, but if it the problem was simply a bad starter solenoid, would the problem be intermittent. I suspect the real problem may be a faulty relay but I am not sure which one. The repair manual lists a starter relay and a main relay. Can I assume that if it were anything other than the starter relay, the engine would at least crank? Or is my logic all wrong?

alcan · July 2005

It's usually the main relay. Under the dash, left side.

wildirish · July 2005

I have a '95 Bonneville that recently developed a no-start situation. It happens when the engine is warm, and been sitting (off) for a few minutes.

When I turn the ignition key to "on", the idiot lights do not come on. A/C fan motors blows fine and all other electrical seems fine. When I turn the key to "start", nothing happens. Once the car sits for 1/2 hour or so, it starts normally (idiot lights come on normally, etc.).

I've read through all the posts, and tried shifting to neutral, but nothing seems to help.

Where do I start my diagnosis?

msdaddy · July 2005

Thanks, I will pull the main relay and test it next time it fails. It is a lot easier to get to the Main Relay than the Starter Relay on my car anyway. Question, how does a failed main relay cause the engine not to crank or click? Does the main relay control the starter relay? Or will the starter relay not engage until there is fuel pressure? Just curious.

msdaddy · July 2005

After some research I found that the most common reason for the relay to fail intermittently is a broken solder joint. I removed the Main Relay from under the dash (Dont forget to disconnect the battery anytime you work with car wiring). This operation was quite easy and straight forward. The one non intuitive thing was that you push upward on the mounting bracket no down to remove the relay on my Honda. A thin straight screw driver was helpful. Once the relay is free from the mounting bracket, I had to press the release on the retaining clip very deep to remove the relay from the wiring harness. I used the same screwdriver to pry off the cover of the relay. After removing the cover, I could not smell any burned components, so I looked at the solder joints under a microscope. There was one joint that was questionable but not obviously broken. The rest of the joints looked good. I decided to go ahead and re-solder all the connections as a preventive measure. I removed then reapplied solder to each joint. After re-soldering all the joints I reinstalled the relay in the car. Since that point there has been no re-occurrence of the problem despite 100+ degree weather. Hopefully this is the end of this little adventure. If not, then the starter relay is right next to the main relay under the dash. The starter relay is mounted with a bolt and there is very limited space to maneuver, so the removal is not as straight forward as the main relay.

I never did learn the sequence of events that occur between the main relay engaging the fuel pump to build fuel preasure, and the triggering of the starter relay. If anyone can fill in the gap I would appreciate it. Engineers like me always have to understand why things are the way they are.

poor15 · July 2005

any ideas??????? i had alternator, battery,coil, distrubuator, tested and all came back positive there is fuel at the rail after fuel filter.The car is sitting in my garrage now with a heat index of 90+ degers. been hearing alot about relays main and starter not to sure if both are functioning.Car is a comutter with 175,000 miles driven 150 miles a day :confuse:

:lemon: ???????????

msdaddy · July 2005

Is the problem intermittent on hot days after short drives? Is the car cranking at all?

poor15 · July 2005

diving home one night after work car just died on me.Got the car towed home and started up the very next morning while driving it up and down my street it didnt have much power so i pulled it in the garage and began testing the battery,coil, distrubuator,tested for spark and no such luck.The accord now sits in my garage at around 90-100 deger hot weather.I also replaced the mian relay.I also forgot to mention it is 4 cycl non V-TECH.oh yeah it will crank but no fire. thanx for any info!

jpk · July 2005

Good afternoon. For over a year now from time to time, this van just will not start. Motor cranks but will not start. It has a 5.7 in it. The biggest problem is that it has refused to fail at a shop. No one was able to get a code indicating anything wrong. Desperate techs have changed the fuel pump and harness, the security module, the distributor, and cam sensor.
Also the typical tune up parts have all been replaced.
A couple of weeks ago it finally failed to start while hooked up to a scanner. The tech said the timing was off 45º. He said that this indicated a problem with the security module. He said he "reset" the module and proceded to change the distributor and the cam sensor, for reasons unclear to me. Well this didn't solve the problem either.
I do not work on our trucks and have had very little time to investigate what might be going on with it. I can say that on several occasions when this didn't start and I gave it a try, I smelt gas. I do not know if this is just because the guy before me had been repeatedly trying to start it or not.
The problem doesn't seem to be weather/temp related as it has happened throughout the year.
Does this sound familiar to anyone?

JPK

johnj1277 · July 2005

Here is the problem...
I have a 2001 oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 and the check engine light came on.Now it will take between 15 and 20 seconds for my car to start I will keep turning the key until it starts not letting go. Cause if I let it go I will have to keep doing it. It will turn over fine.After the car runs it runs fine its just the starting.I brought it to autozone and they said it was a secondary air sensor. Then they said its called a secondary shut off valve.They said there are a right and a left sensor. Then just yesterday when the car started a small cloud of white smoke came out so I called a shop and they told me it was something with the air and gas mixture. My question is where are these sensors and are they easy to change? I already posted this before but now I was wondering if someone can show me where they are located.

lilredrider · July 2005

Greetings;
I've looked around on the boards and can't find a similar question, so here goes. I have a '96 Geo Prizm with the 1.8L engine and 5 speed m/t. I bought it used last fall from a friend who'd had it for several years. They hadn't run it for a couple years when I bought it. i put a new battery in it and it has run fine [except for an alternater belt that needed changing; grrrr] until about 3 days ago.
Last week I was at my dad's helping him with his bus conversion. When we were leaving he stopped and backed up into me on the drivers side. Not hard, only visible damage is to the high-beam light - broke and fender dented.

Couple days later I was driving home from a shopping trip [about 5-6 miles total] when I heard the light fixture rubbing/scrapping and I pulled over to put it back in the fender. I got back in the car and it wouldn't start. Cranks just fine, will not start. Doesn't cough or sputter. Sounds like it's not getting any fuel [I don't smell any after trying to start], but might be no spark. Could there have been damage done to the computer? Where is it located? Where's the fuel filter? Any likely candidates as to where to start looking for the problem? I tried taking off the gas cap as it had been warm/hot and humid out. Made no difference.
The car has been a great runner and good power and gas milage so I hate to scap it, but I can't see spending several hundred to thousand to diagnose it and fix.
Any help? :confuse:

jamie1022 · July 2005

I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8 ltr that starts only when it wants to. Sometimes when I try to start it nothing happens, it makes no noise and just won't start. All of the lights inside and out come on as if it is going to start normally but it doesn't do anything. It usually happens after I have been driving around for a while, but then after it sits overnight, it starts right back up. I am confused by the problem and the mechanis told me this morning that I just need to drive it around until it does it again and tap the starter to determine if thats what is causing the problem. He said that otherwise it could cost me hundreds of dollars for them to determine what the problem is, and I'm a broke full time student that can't afford that! The car is in otherwise excellent condition. It is a one owner car with no past major problems except for the water pump being replaced. It has 151,000 miles on it. Any advice is appreciated!

blazerdad · July 2005

I have a 1997 Z3, I was driving on the freeway at 70mph and all of a sudden the power to the engine died like I was in neutral. I pulled over to the side of the road and the car wouldn't start again. the engine turns over fine, all electrical items work. I don't smell fuel from any type of flooding. The fan belt is still fine, ( I was told if the fan belt breaks it automatically stops the fuel pump). There are no blown fuses that I found. Any suggestions before I drop it off at a dealer and they take me to the bank? What about those electronic readers you can hook up tp the car to find out the problem... do they really work?

Thanks,

orphic · July 2005

I just received a toyota corolla and it won't turn over.

Checked for a blown head gasket and there wasn't any water or oil mixing.

Replaced the battery and spark plugs

Alternator checked out fine.

Checked fuses and all were good.

I'm stuck as to what could be the problem. Has anyone heard of this happening? All the lights come on when the key is inserted and turned as to turn on the radio and such as well as the brake/turn lights coming on when used.

orphic · July 2005

Just checked the starter and it's fine as well.

rrsafety · August 2005

Yesterday, I stopped at a convenience store and when I came out I couldn't turn the key in the ignition and the steering wheel was locked. No matter how hard I tried (without breaking the darn thing) the ignition was locked up tight and so was the steering wheel. I had to have it towed with flat bed. The service department called and said "What do you mean, the ignition is working fine and isn't locked!" So, I'm going to go pick it up. The dealer says I "might have parked funny"... any ideas?

The car is an AWD Pontiac Aztec, 2003.... (btw, getting it on the flat bed with all the tires locked was a nightmare!)

mquinonez · August 2005

I have a 96 astro van,about 150,000 miles on it.The problem is on occasions it will not start.IT goes like this,drive it park it get in to drive it will not start,all gauges come on lights come on,the engine does not turn over,juice in the battery,turn the key and nothing...it's like when u have an alarm that goes off then u try to start the car it won't letu.checked all fuses gettin juice to the starter then a couple of hours later it starts.I thought it might be a fuse that gets hot and seperates till it gets cool again and makes contact.can anyone help me!!!!!
Thanks,Mike

mquinonez · August 2005

did u ever find the problem,having the same thing

jamie1022 · August 2005

Unfortunately not. I did have it towed to a local mechanic as they suggested when it wouldn't start, but when they got it off the tow truck there, it was working fine so they told me that I needed to come pick it up and call them back again when the problem reoccured. It continues to not crank off and on but always when the shop is closed. I'm calling around to some other places today to get more input. Please let me know if you hear any possible solutions and I'll do the same for you. GOOD LUCK!

betamax · August 2005

I love the car, but over the years it has become more tempermental in starting up. I find especially in hot weather and if left out in the sun. Lately, really bad. If it doesn't start I can sometimes wait it out and it will, or I come back in few hrs or in the evening and it starts first turn of the key. I want to fix but I wonder if anyone has an idea on diagnosing the problem. A little guidance here could help me direct either the dealer of independent mechanic in the the right direction. Your ideas and help greatly appreciated.

okgt · August 2005

I have a 94 Bravada with a 4.3 and 126K miles. on 2 occasions over 1 week this vehicle died at idle then would crank but not start. You can hear the fuel pump running, the first time it started after 2-3 minutes of setting, the next time I pulled a sparkplug wire and put a screwdriver in it then placed it close to metal then cranked it over it fired up instantly. drove it for several days then, I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires then cranked it over several times and it did not start, put a screwdriver in a plug wire placed it close to metal cranked it and it fired up instantly and has started fine all day. What can be wrong that arcing a plug wire will make it start????

evilplay · August 2005

I found my prob.when it wouldn't start i hit the starter a few times with a hammer lightly,it started right up.solienoid sticking put in new starter and everything was fine till this morning.Van wouldn't start but this time no lights or gauges checked battery connections negative side battery post melted off the battery any ideas? Replaced battery and it seems to be working fine now.So try tapping the starter and see if it will start,Good Luck,Mike

tonyboss · August 2005

Professor Al,

First of, I'd like to thank you for your advise (March 30th) It was just a few days ago that I had the chance to open the engine and take a look at the fuel pressure regulator. To my amazement, I found the tip of the regulator without any vaccum hose attached to it nor did I find any vaccum hose near or around it. I believe the device close to the regulator is my MAP sensor. I disconnected it and found out that there was no vaccum hose attached to it either. This only means that I've been driving for hndreds of miles without any vaccum attached to both devices - how is that possible? Also, after I took off the metal cover, I started the car and it gave a very rough revving noise. I immediately shut it off and I noticed that gas was coming out of the tip of the regulator. For now, i covered the tip with a plastic cap tight enough not to allow gas to come out. Question is, is it safe to drive the car in this condition? Any insight and advise will be greatly appreciated. By the by, my car is a '93 seville sts 4.6L Thanks in advance">

carpebm2 · August 2005

i have an 88 camaro and when i first start the car in the morning is starts rite up with no hesitation but after i drive it if i leave it there for a good 2 to 3 hours it wont start for another 2 to 3 hours ive replaced the coil 3 times taken apart the distributer put in a brand new wirering harness plus fuel pump and it still does it does anyone have any suggestions :mad:

alcan · August 2005

Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. If there's gas there, the regulator diaphragm is split and requires regulator replacement.

pincars · August 2005

i have a 95 Jeep Cherokee (4liter, straight 6cy engine) that won't start. seems to lose its spark. already replaced ignition pickup in distributor, and coil, but no luck. all the obvious things check out ok. sometimes it will start, but after 20 minutes or so driving it, it shuts off and leaves me walking. any ideas on what to try next? thanks for any help!

carpebm2 · August 2005

ill try and tell you how i goes by the way thanks

alcan · August 2005

You're welcome. Keep us posted.

achim59 · August 2005

hi,
i'm sure you read my problem with a 97 prizm , too!
sounds very similar to mine, but so far no one not even a shop could give me an answer!
Finally i got a hold of shop manuals(cause dealer couldn't fix it) and i think our problem is right before the distributor, ICM or ignition module or ignitor 3 names for the same darn thing!
Monday i'll try to get one (salvage) when it works, i'll keep you informed!

cya

"No Start" Problems

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