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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
james
Among the highest quality of any car built today.
The Grand Am is an example of what happens when the General DOESN'T try. I live in Lansing, MI, where the Grand Am was built. They areeverywhere. And so are the stories about hub assemblies failing by the score, interiors falling apart, all the stuff you expect from a domestic manufacturer who's putting his resources into trucks rather than cars.
I've known tons of people who had these, and even GM employees will admit they're pretty much junk. It's no contest. Also, teh Vibe has more usable room, whatever the classification is.
The only downside: The Vibe is hard to find used for a good price. Buy a new one in January, when the '09 comes out.
-Mathias
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
When I was in the market, a Chevrolet dealership in Milwaukee wanted $10k for a 2003 Vibe automatic with 90k miles which to me, seemed pretty steep.
Then, I had my brother check out a car in Cincinnati - a 2004 Vibe for $11.5, 36k miles, but unfortunately, a manual transmission.
Personally, I would buy new on this model.
I liked the vibe because I had enough room to be comfortable (at 6-2) and it does good on gas. I drove one up to Philadelphia for work last year.
But if the vibe turns out hard to find, what would be a good alternative, keep in mind that I cannot do a new car right now (because I am in school.)
Mechanically, the Vibe is on the Corolla platform. I am the same size as you are (but wider) and I frive the Corolla. In all fairness, the Corolla is another car that I would only buy new ... but it is $3-5k cheaper.
Alternatives that I would consider are the Mazda 3 and 6 wagons, or the older Mazda Protege P5. If you like AWD, the Subaru Impreza wagon would be a good choice.
The Mazdas are, perhaps the best buy in the used market, as they seem to depreciate more quickly.
james
The only drawback? The hatch comes standard with the bigger engine, and probably won't match the Vibe in MPG...
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I've never owned a non-German car -- & I'm scared I'm too much of a car snob! HELP! I want a great deal, and a reliable FUN family car.
Thanks!
san diego go go! :confuse:
I would suggest, however, you take a look at something with potentially better resale and far lower maintenance costs, like an MDX?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Generally, if you expect a used vehicle to last eight years you probably want it certified. As far as your wagon is concerned I think the question is "are you happy with it?" However, don't expect to pay anything less than the residual.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I've owned a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited since new. Currently has 39K miles, owe $6K, have about 20 payments left. While I like it well enough and it's been reliable, my "frugal" side is having a harder and harder time reconciling with the cost of keeping gas in it (roughly $40-50/week). I owned a Civic back in the mid '90s and liked it, am considering replacing the Jeep with a CPO '04 or '05 Civic LX or EX. Running the numbers, it looks like I would be trading even for payment and term, as I would end up owing almost exactly the same on the Honda as I do on the Jeep. I figure the gas savings should add up to approximately $900/year based on $3.20/gallon gas. I'd like to take the savings and funnel them into credit repayment and retirement savings. I do realize my first years savings would be offset by the tax paid on the Honda purchase, and it looks like the Civic would cost about $20/month more to ensure (what's up with that? :confuse: ). My wife will be going back to school soon, so mileage may go up on the Honda, increasing potential savings. I also am getting to "that age" (35) where I'm finding myself a little more preoccupied with safety for my wife, kids, and self, and realize that the Civic is more crash-worthy than a fabric topped Jeep.
But the Jeep looks really cool.
We have a van that serves as our primary family transporter, so the Civic would see 95% of it's use just shuttling myself or my wife to work and back.
What do you think I should do?
If you really want one, either buy a new one (and get all the safety features) or a privately owned used one.
I'm looking at older BMWs for sale. Which is the better option... an older car with less miles or a newer car with more.
'94 BMW 525i w/ 102,000 miles. $3900 Blue Book $6,045
or
'98 BMW 528i w/ 175,000 miles. $4795 Blue Book $7925
Both vehicles are in very good condtion. Assuming I'm have no personal preference to either, which makes more sense from a financial and reliability standpoint? Which would be more inclined to need repairs in the near future?
Thanks,
Stephen
That '94 seems like a good deal if its clean.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Buy the Honda new but buy the Malibu new. GM just won't be able to resist massive rebates and I am sure resale value on the malibu will be pathetic.
which is what i would suggest .... BUT, the '08 is all new, so that would be a problem if that's what the poster is interested in.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just look at resale value. In 3 years you will lose AT LEAST that $3k more on the malibu vs the accord. Just to make it clear, and I'll use round numbers ... let's say the Accord is $20k and the Malibu $17k. 3 years from now, that Honda is worth $12k, while the 'Bu is worth around $7500. So you spend $3k now and have a car worth $4500 more later down the road.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
This is just me but for $1500 spread over 3 years I would buy the car I really want. I guess if you wanted to get nit picky about it you could factor in the sales tax on the extra $3K you will pay up front plus if you are financing, the interest charged on the extra $3K over the 3 years.
Its definitely not just you. But I figure when someone asks a question like this, they must not be emotionally drawn to one over the other.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I wonder if the Accord resale value is really enough to wipe out all other higher costs especially if the street price difference after discounting is greater than MSRP indicates?
The Accord will have better resale value and will have cheaper manufacturer sponsored extended warranties (due to expected higher reliability after the factory warranty expires). I think everything else about it will be more expensive than a Malibu.
Extra purchase price + tax + interest + opportunity cost lost on that extra money. Maybe higher scheduled maintenance costs and higher insurance costs over several years. Higher theft rate and higher cost to repair body damage may equal higher insurance rates to Accord owners than Malibu owners depending on where they live.
I resent the 4-speed automatic on the 4 cylinder Malibus, but that will be gone in a couple years. Only the LTZ 4 cylinder will have the 6-speed automatic in 2008 (if you can stand the 2-tone leather in the LTZ or even want leather at all regardless of color).
I test drove an LX-P and liked it and was thinking about coming back in a few weeks to buy it the week between Christmas and New Years.
Very roomy and it felt very tight and solid. The LX-P cloth was softer and better looking than the cloth on the EX models. I am likely to buy a car like this unless insurance is more than I expect.
I decided to stop by the Chevy dealer to see the new Malibu just to see if would be worth considering.
They only had two 2008 Malibus. An LTZ on the showroom loaded with everything and the black and brick interior. I still don't like it, but didn't look as bad as it does in the photos. Some people may like it.
The only other 2008 they had was an LS almost complete stripped. Just mats and bodyside moldings. Sticker slightly over $20K.
Since I'm more interested in the 4 cylinder gas mileage, I test drove the LS just to see how it would compare to the Accord.
The stripped LS interior actually looked pretty good and lit up really nicely at night with all the ambient lighting touches all over the car including lighted door handles.
The 4 cylinder seemed smoother and quieter than the Accord due to being buried behind tons of sound deading material. The ride was smoother and quieter than the 2008 Accord (and the 2008 Accord is smoother than the 2007s were) It had a hydraulic lift for the hood even on the base LS with 4 cylinder (no hood prop needed). This is really rare on 4 cylinder cars. Even a Lincoln MKZ has a hood prop.
XM radio and OnStar on the base LS. OK sounding stereo.
The 4-speed automatic seemed no worse than the 5-speed Honda transmission.
You get alot for at $20K MSRP. No stability control though. You need to move up to at least an LT to order Stabilitrak.
However, it still was not perfect. The sleek styling made headroom tight front and back. I bumped my head getting in once and the back seat headroom was maginal for 6 footers in the LS. In the LTZ with moonroof, the rear headroom was extremely tight for 6 footers, The rear legroom was adequate due to the cutouts for your knees in the backs of the front seats.
The LS seats seemed comfortable on the test drive, but they may have been a bit too soft to be supportive on a long trip. I would have to drive one on a long trip to find out.
I like the car. An LT without the moonroof option would be a really nice car. If you get the moonroof, tall people can't sit in back. Even without the moonroof, rear headroom is barely adequate.
I may still go with the Accord because of the tight rear seat. The Accord has OK headroom even with the moonroof and the LX models are that much roomier since they don't have moonroofs. LX and L-P sedans are full-size. EX sedans are mid-size due to the space lost by the moonroof.
The Honda also will have much better resale value and you can get a 100K $0 deductible extended warranty for around $750. A similar GM service contract would be more like $1600 on a new Malibu.
If you need a roomy back seat with lots of headroom, the Malibu comes up short, but it was a bit nicer to drive from the front seat.
When the 6-speed automatic becomes available on all 4-cylinders, it will be even nicer to drive, but they cannot do anything about the rear seat space until the next redesign.
The extra $1000 cost of the GM extended warranty vs Honda warranty kind of wipes out the savings of the Malibu vs Accord. If a $1500-$2000 rebate comes, it will look more attractive to me since I don't think invoice price of similarly trim Malibus and Accords are not that far apart. If they came out with a subsidized lease program, that could be attractive. You would be able to drive it for 3 years without worrying about resale and repair or extended warranty costs.
I didn't like the Chevy sales people, they were trying to get me to buy one them by saying they could replace the LTZ leather or put leather in the LS even after I told them more than once I am going to keep looking at other vehicles and would only get an LT with Stabilitrak if I were going to get a Malibu at all.
The Malibu was more comfortable to drive than the Accord, but the Accord is much better for big and tall people to ride in the back seat. The Accord will have much, much better resale value.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
Ahhh, unless you only plan to keep the vehicle 3 years, there is a special lease rate AND you can get a lease with 25k per year.....DON'T LEASE.
Even though Infinity and Acura are fairly reliable, they are not as reliable as your basic appliances such as Accord, Camry, Civic or Corolla. At 22K mi per year you will be over 100K in less than 5 years. Your car will be worth less than $10K. If you keep it, it will cost a lot of money to repair it at the dealer. Most independent mechanics can’t fix luxury cars because they don’t have the necessary equipment.
Currently I drive 04 Acura TL, and I put only 8K a year on it. Minor service, such as oil change and tire rotation, is $75. Intermediate service at 15K was $260. Major service, at 30K and 60K, will be over $700, and you will have to do it every other year or less. To machine the rotors - $190. And don’t forget the tires. I just replaced the tires on my TL at 30K mi for $900 at Costco. Sport tires cost much more and last only 25K miles. Can you afford $900 for tires just about every year?
I just took a job where I’ll be putting about 20K mi per year on my TL. Trust me, this TL will be my last luxury car, next car will be a Civic. I recently had a rental Civic for a week and I didn’t miss my TL all that much.
My advice would be is to buy yourself an appliance for under $20K and make an Infinity payment on it. After three years when the appliance is paid off, you can buy a toy that you can use on weekends and keep driving the appliance to work. This way, your toy will last you over 10 years.
Not necessarily. We have had a Nissan Maxima (not a luxury car, but nicer interior and more fun to drive than the Altima, Accord or Camry) for 6 years that has so far cost us very little in upkeep and certainly no more than if we had a Civic -- just the basics like a battery, muffler, and tires. You don't have to have the expensive services done at the dealership either. The Civic is a great little car, and it might actually be our next car, but if I drove 22k a year I would want to be in a car I enjoyed. The Maxima, Acura, etc. will be much nicer for long drives.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'08 Outback 2.5i automatic for $21,374
'05 Outback 2.5i automatic with 41k miles, certified pre-owned (so remainder of 6 year 100k mile warranty is intact) for $16,700
I've asked other dealers to beat the quote for the '08 and no one can - MSRP is 25,400.
The '05 price is what's listed on the dealer site, so it's obviously flexible but I haven't talked to that dealer yet. The most I would pay for that is 16,000.
My original inclination was pre-owned since I'm starting a new job in the summer and will probably walk to work (so won't be driving a ton). The thing that's bugging me is 5k doesnt seem like a big enough difference between a new car and its 3yo equivalent.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
I know that each person will find different vehicles and styles better than others, and that opinions can and will differ. That is why I want to hear from others about their opinions on the matter.
I am looking at purchasing a new vehicle by no later than May of 2009 as that is when my warranty will run out and I will have the funds to upgrade. I am wanting a coupe/convertible preferably. I want something that can have fun with since my next vehicle will probably be another sedan when I have a family a couple of years down the road. Here is the info that will affect my purchase decision:
1) I am almost 21, so I am experienced, but still have a lot to learn about driving. I currently drive a 115 HP FWD 01' VW Jetta with automatic transmission.
2) I would like to get something with more power either I4 or V6 that still gets good gas mileage as I average around 22 to 25 MPG right now. Also, since my Jetta is a FWD, I would like to try a RWD. I don't really need a AWD/4WD as I live in Houston, TX where it is flat and only rains a lot in the Spring. Futhermore, AWD cost more if I need to replace a tire as you usually have to replace all the tires unless I am wrong. However, I am not above a suggestion.
3) I want to get a manual transmission, but need it to be a little easier and/or more forgiving as I will be learning on it. I would like a short throw if possible, but not necessarily a must. I have my father who plans to teach me the basics to start with and then I will practice from there as I own the car and get more and more comfortable with it.
4) I would prefer a coupe/hatchback to a convertible just because I don't really care about it. I currently have a moonroof in my Jetta and I rarely use it. I feel that a coupe with a hard top would be safer in a major accident. Am I wrong? What are your thoughts between the two types?
5) I was hoping at staying around $35K or less out the door with TTL when it was all said and done, but any recommendation will be considered. An example would be like the Honda S2000 that is MSRP at $35 something, higher out the door with TTL before any haggling with the dealer.
6) Last but not least, I don't want a Honda Civic because I do not like the current styling or the two teer instrument cluster. That is the only vehicle I have already tried and thrown out of the mix. Any other suggestions are welcomed.
I would appreciate any suggestions and opinions why I should choose one model over another. Thanks in advance for any help.
Bill
Same car I'm considering for my next vehicle for many of the same reasons you list (power, mileage, etc).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I know that with my jetta right now, which is also European made, I pay out the rear end whenever it needs something fixed or replaced.
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