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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair



  • 79customd79customd Posts: 87
    Try checking the transmission fluid. The Buick Regal discussion has had the same problem and it seems the problem there is that the transmission fluid had leaked down and that was causing the rough shifting and the clanky sound. Check it out in the Regal posts. Try checking that and see if the car has a leak in the transmission fluid, if so I think we've found the problem. ;)

  • vegasladyvegaslady Posts: 10
    I currently own a 2002 Honda Accord, I'm not impressed with the Honda cars and I'm thinking of selling it and buying a 2000 or up Buick Century. I looking for words of satisfaction from current owners. Gas milage for one and reliability for another. Appreciate your input.
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    I have a 2002 Century that was bought new and have never had any trouble at all. I have 60,000 miles on it now and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles (PENNZOIL 5-30W). I keep the Air Filter changed also. I had to change the factory tires at 45,000. The gas milage is about 29 in town and 32 on the highway. I think you would be happy with a Century. Red Bird
  • I recently bought a 2002 Buick Century Custom with 49,000 miles. The temperature gauge goes to the notch past the halfway mark when I drive continuously for about an hour. But it gradually goes back down to the notch before the halfway point. Should I get the cooling system checked or is this normal for this car? May it just be a case of a floating needle or is it a sign of the possibility of it overheating in the near future.
  • neightneight Posts: 6
    The dealer wanted over $600 to fix with the part costing $427 + tax. I found a used one at a junkyard for $125 with a 30 day warranty if it didn't work. I spent less than 2 hours and replaced it myself and it now works great! It wasn't an easy job but definately worth the effort. Thanks for everyones help.
  • have a 94 buick century with the 3100 v6 in it... I have an odd problem that i think is a cracked/warped intake plenum. The car will start and run like sh*t... but if i restrict the intake by putting my hand over it... it runs fine. To make the car driveable I have put a piece of ducttape over about 1/4th of the intake air inlet, and the car is driveable(I even tow with it like that, and its fine), and besides a bit of hesitiation once in a while, was driving fine. BUt lately it seems to have got worse, it will stall and sometimes i have to open the hood and play with the intake restriction to get it to start (I drove it 2800 km's to myrtle beach like this )... I was just wondering if anyone has seen this issue? I've gone to a few places and they say they never heard of it, but a few others say Yes, its the plenum, replace it. I have taken all intake lines off the manifold and plugged them to make sure it wasnt a defective device like a brake booster, and i have seperated the exahust to make sure it wasn the converter pluged, but nothing helped..... Can anyone verify if they have seen this before? Id like to get it fixed, but its very hard to find any Century's in the junkyard to get one off to try, and new is like $400.......... Thanks

  • carfixercarfixer Posts: 2
    Any answers from anyone? I also have the same problem ...window off track in 99 Buick Century. Can
    you send any info. on removing front door (drivers side) panel?
  • carfixercarfixer Posts: 2
    Can anyone give precise instructions on removing the door panel on drivers side in '99 Buick Century - Custom.
    Need to fix window... either regulator or glass off track.
  • rpunsberpunsbe Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Buick Century with about 120K miles on it. Its doing just fine other than a noise it has started making after its been parked for a little while.

    When reversing or pulling forward form the parked positin a loud, single "Tunk" noise is heard from the front drivers side tire area. Sometimes I think I hear this noise also when making a sharp left hand turn.

    I have already had the driver side and passenger side bushing's tighetend and the swayarm replaced (it was cracked near the front driver side tire) But the noise is still occuring. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    The normal position for the temp gauge on my 2002 century is the first mark to the left of center. Some times in heavy traffic here in Texas during the summer at 100+ degrees it may run in the middle while going slow. Then as soon as you get back to normal speed it will go back to the left mark from center again. The car has 2 electric fans that are controlled by heat sensors that come on when they are needed for extra cooling like w/ac. You may have a sticking relay or a bad heat sensor. Good Luck find your problem
  • Hi Steve, my name is Alfonzo
    And I've heard of your problem.
    It's common to all Buck Centurys with a 3.1 engine form that time period (also the Olds Ceria).
    Do you get water in the engine oil or oil in the radiator?
    If so, then what you have is a leaky intake manifold gasket.
    During that time period [94-96] GM was phasing out the Century/Ciera and they had alot of issues with the intake manifold gasket on the 3.1 engine.
    I found out about it on a very useful website
    It's a pretty costly repair because the mechanic has to remove not only the intake manifold, but everything on top of it. including the fuel rail,fuel pressure regulator and the throttle body and then put it all back together and reset the engine's ECM.
    I just bought a 96 Century from an elderly couple recently and the bill for that repair was over $725. in '04.
    Try to get to carsurvey and just look up the make and model. They have some pretty useful info about alot of cars from people that had owned them. And you can add your own comments about your experiences.
  • new2buicksnew2buicks Posts: 2
    thanks redbird! i'll go and have it checked out. hopefully it won't be too costly. i'll let you know what happens.
  • Hi im daniel
    Im having a hell of a time trying to figure out wats wrong with my 1989 buick station wagon.The proplem is my gas gauge and speedometer doesnt ligth up, all my other dash ligths ligth up tho i cant figure it out.ive replaced all the ligth does it matter that it had some green tinted ligths that i swicth out for clear ligths is this my proplem if anyone can help me, I would be greatful :confuse:
  • freziafrezia Posts: 1
    Just recently my dash board and park lights have stopped working :confuse: brake lights and turn signals work just fine. Does anyone have an idea of whats wrong?
  • bnwalkerbnwalker Posts: 2
    The car accelerates well until approx 55-70 mph without vibration. Once the car levels off speed and drops into overdrive, the car begins to vibrate. If I let off the accelerator, the vibrations stop. I can accelerate again without vibration, but once it drops into overdrive, the vibrations begin again. Does anyone have solutions?

    Also, the car has a miss that can only be felt if the car is idling and the engine is revved up. At normal idle, the miss is not there. I assume these two things are unrelated, but I included the second problem just in case.
  • have you checked your fuses ??
  • have you checked your transmission fluid level ?

    make sure that the engine is hot and your parked on a level piece of ground. If the fluid is brown/black color you got some issues.

    for the second problem, you could have a clogged or weak fuel injector (which could be related to the 1st problem) try adding a couple of bottle/cans of fuel injector cleaner on the next couple of tankfulls of gas.
  • bnwalkerbnwalker Posts: 2
    Thanks for the ideas. I've done both of those things. The Transmission fluid is good and I've checked the fuel injectors (as well as running two bottles of fuel injector cleaner.) Any other ideas?
  • yeah i have.i even gave them an upgrade from a 10 amp to 15 amp they ligth up but only when the door is open and you have the interior ligths on.But when you close it they shut off
  • yeah i have.i even gave them an upgrade from a 10 amp to 15 amp fuse. now they light up but only when the door is open and you have the interior lights on. But when you close it they shut off
  • tonythedoctonythedoc Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 century with the same exact recurring problem. Last year I cleaned the injectors, replaced the #6 injector (misfire), fuel filter, plugs & wires. Now I have the same "check engine soon", with a #5 misfire. You can imagine my frustration. The only thing I can think of is changing the ignition module. The car still runs, it just gets this code when the car hiccups. Let me know how you make out, and I'll do the same. Good Luck, my friend.
  • stevohawkstevohawk Posts: 1
    Hello all

    Stupid question: Where is the thermostat housing located? I can't find it!
  • jmorales1jmorales1 Posts: 2
    I recently replaced the front struts on my 93 Buick Century and now there is a slight rattle when I cross over a rough spot in the road or slight little bumps in the road. It does not happen during compression of the struts but more when they are fully extended and barely under compression. I have taken the wheel off, checked the springs, brakes and just about everything in the wheel well. My Century has 60,000 miles on it and has been well maintained and this small rattle is driving me nuts as there was no rattle before the struts were changed. I would appreciate and suggestions.


  • jmorales1jmorales1 Posts: 2
    Plastic covers will discolor with age. Nothing you can do but replace them.
  • jcombsjcombs Posts: 1
    I have an 95 Buick Roadmaster. The entire motor ingintion has been replaced. Still has low R.P.M miss. What could i do or try to solve the problem?
  • pville14pville14 Posts: 1
    After having my car hooked up at AutoZone I know that I have a bad rear O2 sensor. Does anyone know where to locate it? I know it's on the exhaust system somewhere, but where exactly I dont know. Any advice is appreciated.
  • I would have bought some clear labels and on the computer typed in CENTURY as close to the font as possible, printed it and stuck it in its original place.
  • espozitoespozito Posts: 1
    I currently have a 1997 Buick Century Custom, which I love and hate all at the same time. I love the ride and the interior, but the car definetely has it's little quirks!!! I originally had problems with my ABS and Emergency brake lights comming on and staying on, but if I turned the car off and then turned it back on they went off. I had the battery replaced and I didn't have the problem any more and thought I lucked out, but I was very wrong. Months later I turned the car on and the interior dash lights went out and stayed out. A little while after that happened The rear windows and the passenger side window switches stopped working so only the driver's side window is the only one that controls them (And yes I checked the window lock button!) However when I hold the rear passenger side window button up on the Driver's side door the Dash lights come on and when I release the button the dash light go back out. Does anybody have any ideas what could be causing this?? I'm hoping to get away with a new driver's side door panel and not have to replace the whole electrical system.. Please help????
  • bobob5511bobob5511 Posts: 1
    i ahve a probelm with my power window system. all four power windows quit workong one day. i am sure all four did not burn up simultaniosly. i have replaced the drivers door switch cluster but that did not dure the problem. i am wondering where the power window realy isd located and how hard that would be to replace.
  • sladyslady Posts: 1
    my light came on and iwas told that dust gets in there and what i did was blow into n it stars right up with the light goimg out. i hope that helps.
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