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local garage. $500. Worked OK for about 2 months - now has stuck at 3/4 to full and I know it is about to run out of gas at 320 miles (thanks to ethanol). Took back to garage, they said
again that they replaced it but I have some serious questions because the story don't check
with what I can figure out just by commons sense and math. Anybody know is there any where that I can disconnect wires between tank and gauge and do a do an electrical or continuity test ?
winter. I relate it to the additive, whether ethanol or some other
mandated concoction legislated by our know nothing but everything govmnt
authorities.
one time. It drove me and three mechanics crazy till I finally found a fellow who solved it.
It was, at that time, an ignition module located inside the distributor assy - but that may not have been e f i Good luck Rojeur
What could be wrong ?
Also my neighbor suggested that I get someone with an analyzer to connect to the car to see why it's not doing anything.
Would that be recommended and how much might that cost me?
Before I have it towed to the shop I would like to have an idea of what's wrong to see if it's worth fixing. Also I have experience with the shops that if you just go in there they will try to "hook" you up with every part available.
So if you have any idea, please respond.
Thanks
I would encourage you to take your vehicle to your local GM dealership to be looked at. Please keep us posted when this has been taken care of.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
in addition, you can check:
Check for the following conditions:
Important: Remove any debris from the connector surfaces before servicing a component. Inspect the connector gaskets when diagnosing or replacing a component. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion.
Poor terminal connection. Inspect the harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and faulty terminal to wire connection. Use a corresponding mating terminal to test for proper tension. Refer to Diagrams.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. if the harness appears to be OK, observe the sensor display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the sensor. A change in the sensor display may indicate the location of the fault.
Inspect the PCM and the engine grounds for clean and secure connections.
Is GM trying to make fun of us? I read a similar story from someone else. I went to a repair shop and found out that replacing the switch will cost me over $500. That's ridiculous! What's wrong with GM?
This is one of the reason, I generally stay away from American cars. That's sad!
Does anyone know where I could find an after market multifunction switch?
Thanks.
Did you ever get an answer to this problem? My 2003 Buick Century is also experiencing the same problem: when I set the temperature to cold on both driver and passenger side, cold air comes out on driver's side and hot air comes out on passenger side in the summer. Then, in winter, when temperature is set to hot on both sides, hot air comes out on driver's side and cold air comes out on passenger side. People at my local body shop cannot seem to find the problem. Any help would be much appreciated!
Thea
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exybDRDNiCo">link title
you can buy the parts at approx$80 from 1aauto.com
Watch the video and follow it. The hardest part is removing the trims.
Trick is to remove the trip THAN disconnect the battery. This will allow you to lower the shifting lever so the trim can be removed.
Update: 125,000 miles after the problem began. Still happens only occasionally. Never spent a dime on that symptom, just put up with the minor annoyance. Never had a serious issue with it.
I replaced the engine at 142,000 miles after damage from the intake manifold gasket. A friend and I got that done over three weekends for $900, including a great junkyard engine, a new OEM "improved design" gasket set, fluids and some other parts.
1. i have a 94 century and am looking into new tires. the current ones came off my old non running 95 century size is 185/75/14. i was told they dont make my tire anymore from several tire places. what would be the size i would need then?
2. i have a two part question here, my car is hardly ever in the shop it is always fixed by my dad. my anti lock brake light is on. hes checked the rear wheels for locking up. hes checked the brake lines and front roaters for rubbing ( dont know what that actually means) hes checked to see if the fuse is bad incase it was a false/positive in the dash lights. the car stops fine and the brakes never lock up. what else should he check to make this light go off? and will the part that needs fixing interchange from the non running 95 century?
I have run out of gas at least 5 or 6 times and i know this is bad for the car but its almost impossible for me to calculate the gas mileage im gonna be getting with this car, and it gives no warning im lucky if i can even get it to the side of the road. I have even started having anxiety attacks at red lights. Ive also noticed that sometimes in the morning my interior dash lights will "appear" to be on only a block later ill hear a pop sound and then they come on all the way. RIght now my ABS and Emergency Brake lights in the dash are on and they have stayed on even though i never use the ebrake because it hurts my back. A month after i got the car my front right blinker and daylamp mysteriously fixed themselves on their own accord,,, no new bulbs fuses or anything, however as of today they are out again and this time ive tried new bulbs and fuses. And STILL THERES MORE
twice since i have had the car it has refused to start...at first i thought it was the starter but i wasnt too worried since it had only happened twice.. My dad is an amazing mechanic, specializing in custom fabrication and repair, so i stopped at his house about a month ago because it was having a hard time starting, he again checked all my fluids, and fuses. The battery was really low, and didnt seem to hold a charge according to the voltage reader so he put it on a charger and we let it fully charge before we left, He took out the glove box and hood lamp bulbs to conserve energy and suggested i buy a new battery as soon as possible. 2 weeks ago i went to pick my daughter up from her grandmas house, car started just fine in my driveway but when i tried to start it at their house all it did was click. Thinking it was the battery this time i had my sister in law attempt to jump start my car with hers. And still all we got was a click click click. we disconnected the jumper cables and pushed my car back in the driveway all of 3 feet and the darn thing started right up. My clock had reset itself but my radio stations were still programmed. For the last three days i have had to jump start my car id say like 75 percent of the time in order for it to start, my cables are clean and are not corroded. None of my fuses or bulbs are blown. I make sure everything in the car is off so as not to drain the battery. my dad said he thinks that if its not the battery that its probably the starter not getting enough juice from the battery because all of the lights, radio, door locks, interior dash lights, power windows seats and doors work...
Anyone got any ideas.. seriously any ideas on what we should try to fix this problem, other than a new battery cause right now im getting ready to walk to my house cause guess what my car wont start!!
good luck