Thank for the info. The Rhino I had before and keep having problems with tears when shoveling out mulch and rock. They did fix it but kept having to go backwas a pain. The Line-x guy removes all the bolts etc.. when installing - the rhino is just sprayed on top of everything. I heard it may be possilble to add traction pellets or something to the line-x ever here of this?
Crew Cabs have a problem with weatherstripping. Get's compacted somehow, and over time door starts to rattle.
If you're still under warranty bring it to the dealers attention - have them replace weatherstrip and adjust the door.
For it D.I.Y. fix, you can try adding some 1/8 -1/4 inch diameter silicone or plastic tubing inside the current weatherstrip to beef it up so it doesn't compress as far. It will hold the door and stop the rattling.
At the top of the door, put the tubing in the rain channel above the doors. In the weather strip around the inside of the door opening there is a slit where the pieces join at the bottom. Just oil or use WD-40 to lubricate the tubing and push it in the opening at the bottom and work it a little at a time all the way around the strip. There are holes made in the weather strip where you can spray the oil in.
has anyone heard of a recall on the 2005 250 super duty for "stalling"? any info is appreciated. also has anyone had any trouble with the turbo on the same model?
I haven't owned a '95 F-250 with a 460, but I can pass along info about them that I have picked up about them. I don't know of any particularly widespread problems with that truck. Unless you really do some seriously heavy towing/hauling, I doubt you'll find the limit on that truck. However, just because it's a 3/4 ton, don't think you can throw 4k lbs in the bed. You'll probably be limited to around 3k lbs or slightly less. As far as towing, I'd bet 12k to 13k lbs would just about do it.
Now for the bad news - expect 6 to 8 mpg while towing. hehehe
I've been meaning to post my experiences some time now, but been very busy.
I have a Black 04 F250 6.0 4x4 SuperCrew XLT SB that I bought new. About 30k miles, I started noticing a 'Rough Idle' that would come and go, but seemed to manefest itself when I was at a stop light on a slight incline. I figured it was bad gas or maybe i would need the oil changed. I just ignored it, this was my first diesel.
About 32k miles, the transmisison light came on. It would come and go. The manual said it could be bad gas, so when I fueled up, it went away so I figured that's what it was.
About 33k miles transmission started slipping and jumping in the lower gears. I could drive from Mesa to Tucson without any problems until I started getting into stop and go traffic, then it was quite the ride. Floor the gas pedal, see the RPM's climb, and speed slowly increases until some breaking point and the transmission would jerk forward. There's always be some sort of strange klunk that happens when I startup and place it in reverse.
I took it to Berg Ford, they had it for about a week and said it was fixed. Some sort of faulty solenoids. The cool thing was they gave me a rental car at no charge because it was warranty work. Well, the truck worked great until I got it back down to tucson, and started behaving worse. The transmission would start slipping and the The Tow Light would come on for some strange reason.
I drove it back, and they gave me another rental car. (5.0 Mustang Convertable was nice to drive around), so I couldnt' be that upset. Repairs took another week, and they told me to come back and pick it up.
So I drive all the way back there, and they told me it was some sort of warped solenoid pan, musta been bad workmanship. Once again the Truck works for about an hour, then same old transmssion problems. This time I would have to shut the Vehicle Down and then restart it and then it would behave ok, at least driveable. The tow light would be on at that point in time.
When I returned the vehicle for the 3rd time, they gave me some lemon escort, so I planted the flag about needed this truck fixed this time around. Everone made fun of the escort wondering what in the hell I was thinking. You traded your truck in for that!!!
I told the dealership I wanted a new transmission. They said that ford mandates that they can't give a new transmssion unless the repairs exceeded 3500 bucks. I said this was my 3rd time back, surely we are at that point. They said they could replace every part and not exceed 3500 bucks. (I'm sure since it was warranty work that's the case, but if it was on my nickle, it would be quite the different story).
Well, when I got the truck back for the 3rd time it seemed to be in pretty good shape, not 100% but maybe 95% percent.
At 48,000 miles my transmission started acting up again. Doesn't have any power when I start the thing up, seems to take forever to wind up. Once I get to 40 mph, power resumes. I changed the oil, differentials, and fuel filter and that seemed to reduce some restriction, but still no power in the lower gears. Looks like I will have to take it in again or just go with another Heavy Duty Truck brand -- what other options do I have? Shell out 4k for transmission repairs every 25k miles or so?
So naturally, I am very disappointed at this F250 6.0 TD. I bought what I considered the toughest truck and the power train has lemoned out on me. I don't do any pulling, and most of my miles are highway miles and I average about 400-425 miles on a tank.
My greviences are #1 - Issues in the first place, and #2 - Trying to Get the Thing repaired the first time, Ford should have just bolted on a new transmission and been done with it.
Hey guys, whats so bad about a traditional bed liner that goes up and over the top of the sides of the bed? I have one on an '87 and it and the bed is in great shape. We take it out every year or so and wax or touch up paint the bed. Never had a problem with it or the bed and its carried diesel engines, cord wood, landscaping stuff, lobster traps, etc..
I think that a liner cushions and protects the bed against objects that are thrown in (firewood, etc.) and might gouge the bed. Not so with a spray on. If you are concerned about things sliding around on a bed liner, put a piece of plywood in. Now, if you value looking cool, then get a spray on that is the same color as the body and glows when lit by head lights.
Thanks for the advice/info, I'll take that into consideration. Any idea what I might expect for mileage in normal driving conditions? Also, does the 460 have a decent record regarding service /reliability? Thanks again!
Recently purchased a new 2005 F250 PSD - what a great truck! I'm trying to determine if I have a problem with the outside temperature display. When I start the truck in the morning - it reads 80 degrees (in Phoenix) and adjusts downward very quickly if it's colder than that outside. However, if it's 100 degrees outside, the adjustments are very slow going up and seem to happen only after the vehicle is traveling at least 40 mph or more. When I arrive at work in the morning, the outside temperature displays 78 degrees. When I get back in my truck around 5 p.m., it displays 78 degrees (when it's 109 degrees outside). It takes my truck 10-15 miles before the display actually gets up to 109 degrees and I have to be moving for it to do so. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what did you do to fix it.
Purchased my 2005 F250 PSD, Crewcab 4X4 in December 2004 and have experienced similar problems with my outside temp display. Since I only have 1300 miles on the truck, it has not been back to the dealer for service. This problem will be on my "hit list" when it goes in for its first service. Please post anything you find out if your truck goes in first.
My police department was recently awarded a F250 Super Duty V10 6.8 engine truck related to a drug crime. We tried to improve the performance buy trying to purchase a superchip / hypertech chip. I was informed they do not not make one for this truck.With out spending thousands of dollars how can I get some more speed out of this truck if it is possible ? I would appreciate any tips of the trade or experience with imporving truck performance.. Thanx Badge 103
As fas as I know the 460 is a fairly reliable engine. It has been around a very long time. I'd bet 10-12 mpg while running empty. You could probably get a little more out of it if you drove like a "little old lady."
What year is the truck? I know they made them for '99 thru '01 model years. Check into Diablo or Superchip - they gave more power than Banks. Note: Chips for V10 usually require Premium fuel. (Hope you can fill it up off of your department's fuel pumps. )
Are you looking to improve response off the line, or you looking to increase the top end? Be advised these pickups are governed at ~95 mph. They do that because, #1 the tires on these beasts aren't made to go that fast for an sustained time. (I don't think anybody makes speed rated tires in the stock size.) Also and more importantly, the drivetrain components are designed for towing/hauling not high speeds - been told that driveshafts and front ends can grenade at sustained high speeds - which is why Ford governed it. My stock V10 won't beat a Corvette off the line, but it still moves impressively fast for a 7500 lb. vehicle. From '99 to '02 V10s had a "minor" problem called exhaust flutter. Around 2000 rpm there was a resonance in headers/manifold y-pipe that made it sound like a diesel motor. Flutter didn't hurt engine, but in the process of trying to iron it out, Ford tried a whole bunch of different computer programs mods to reduce it. Some of the codes worked reasonably well, but others killed the engine's power when they killed the noise. You could try having a mechanic reflash the computer to try a "better code."
You can gain some improvement relatively inexpensively by helping the motor to breathe easier - you can add a K&N air filter to help the intake. A Cat-back exhaust system will help a bit too. Folks have changed the headers, and rear end gearing, but you're getting pricey for those mods.
Hi Thanks for answering my message. The truck is a 2001 gas engine. Top end speed is what I would like to improve if possible. The truck is governed at 95 mph like you stated. I have been looking into a K&N air flow system and possible a throttle spacer would this help the performance I am looking for ? I am not looking to make it like a Police Interceptor even thoe it would be nice just looking for a little bit more speed.
There is a Recall on the '04 & '05's..about 80,000 diesels..replace the Main Wire Harness for the engine going to the injectors..my '04 is in getting done as we speak. It was on the Yahoo News last week...total about 244,000 F-250, 350,450 and 550 gas and diesel trucks....pain in the b.... stalling is one of the signs..per the service mgr. where I went....have a nice day.
This is the link for the recall. You need to type in the truck info. I had this problem with a 2003 f250 with the new psd got a new 2005 so far so good. They say you can also call ford at 1-800-392-3673 to get the info since the trucks are not made in VIN order.
My '03 F250 had a squeaking front end, noticable at low speed. Turned out to be a carrier bearing on the front axle. Pretty easy fix by the dealer under warranty.
Have a 05 F250 of which I have bought the Superchip and Gibson stainless exhaust for and now getting ready to buy an air induction system. Any ideas for me on which to purchase. Thanks.
I have a 2005 F-250 with a 6.0 liter Powerstroke and 10,000 Miles on it. Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controler from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controler but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
I have a 2005 F-250 with a 6.0 liter Powerstroke and 10,000 Miles on it. Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controller from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controller but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
2001 F250 5.4 V8 WITH THE BIG TRANS, SHIFTING IS FINE UNTIL OD AND THEN IT MAKES (TO ME) AN ABNORMAL NOISE. THE RPMS DROP. I TOOK IT IN TO A TRANS SHOP AND THE GUY DROVE IT AND SAID IT WAS "THE LOCK UP" AND IT WAS FINE. WHAT IS "THIS LOCK UP" AND IS IT NORMAL. SHOULD I GET A SECOND OPINION. THANKS JOSH
Lock up refers to the torque converter in the automatic transmission. Torque converter is a viscous coupling that is set up to slip when needed so you can be stopped a traffic light with the truck in gear and the engine doesn't stall. Motor keeps running, but torque converter disengages so the transmission doesn't spin the wheels.
Torque converter has varying amount of slip depending on the speed/load of the motor, the gear the tranny is in, and the speed of the truck. Slip is needed at various times for proper operation, and torque converter slip is programmed to run in a ratio to engine rotation. Shortcoming: slip is a source of inefficiency and reduces mpg. So, when truck reaches highway speed and the load is steady, the torque converter locks up, meaning it doesn't slip. The ratios is 1:1, torque converter turns once for each engine revolution.
The thing about torque converter lockup is that many time you can feel it. Almost like the truck has shifted into another gear. Some vehicles have it more pronounced than others. I feel it on my truck, depending on how I'm driving it may be subtle or at other times it's a definite bump. It's not a problem.
i have a 2001 F 250, 7.3L deisel, 4x4, supercab. I am thinking about getting a 2 or 3 inch lift with some 33 inch BFG mud terrains. not real sure though. i live in south texas and i like to drive down the beach to go fishin. so if yall have any good ideas about what brand or height of lift to get or what type or size of tires that work for mud, sand, and what ever else i can throw at them, dont be afraid to say sumthin, thanks, OOWeaver68
I can't help you on the lift as I've never dealt with a lift on a Superduty. The BFG's are excellent tires. I offroad a Jeep and several of my Jeepin' buds run the BFG M/T's. We cover all sorts of terrain ranging from mud, dry dirt, small rocks to loose gravel/small rock hill climbs. They perform very well in all the terrain that we cover. Those of us who drive our Jeeps to and from our wheelin' spot say they perform quite well on the road to without too much noise. Of course, "too much noise" is a subjective term. I have some offbrand M/T's that also do just as well on the trail, but are much noisier on the road. They sound fine by me, but my buds say they can hear me coming a mile away.
Now, a word of caution. You will be putting these tires on an F-250. Superduties typically come equiped with Load Range E tires, I think, at least that's what was on my F-350. I'm pretty sure my buds BFG M/T 33's are only Load Range C. You ave a very heavy truck, upwards of 7k lbs. I would venture to guess the front axle will have close to 4k lbs on it, without any sort of a load on the truck. I'm afraid the BFG's will be at, or at least very near, their load limit on the empty truck. Check out your individual axle weight ratings on the inside of the drivers door jamb. Then divide that number in half to find out how much weight each tire must support. Check out the ratings on the tires to make sure they can handle that much weight.
I just purchased a 2000 Ford F-250 4x4 7.3 Turbo Diesel and was loving life until yesterday... Life is still good but I took my truck to the store yesterday and when I returned my truck would crank but would not turn over. I wait for the glow plugs to finish then start, I removed the keys and retried everything, checked fuses Drained the water tried everything I could think of. after 30 min i tried again turned off A/C to make sure it started right up. Sat there perplexed for a minute shut the hood got and tried to drive off only to have it turn off as I was moving. Got it started since I was at a signal tried to get across only to have it shut down never to restart again. Had it towed to my house got in it this morning started right up Let it run for a few minutes and pumped the throttle seems to be mechanically fine have not driven it yet as I do not feel like trying it just yet. :confuse: Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
Well the problem has resurfaced while running it in my drive way I put it in drive for a few minutes and let it sit idle with my foot on brake adn after a few minutes it abruptly shut down. Tried to restart after a second or two it shuts off. It does not die out as if it loses power or anything like that. It is almost as if it reaches a point and electronically shuts off as a safety. I do not feel like attempting any more starts for fear of doing mechanical damage. Thanks !
Sounds to me like a Camshaft Position Sensor. Those have a history of just letting go. You are only one of a very few that I know of to have it happen as you describe. Most just die.
It's an under thirty minute fix, depends on the size of your hands. It is located on the front of the block to the left of the water pump - as you're facing the front of the truck. It's tight in that area, that's why I mentioned the size of your hands. If you go to the Ford garage, you'll pay WAY TOO MUCH for it. Find the nearest International truck dealership/parts store. That engine was made by International and they know it as the "T444E". The last time I heard anyone say, the International CPS only cost around $90.
is there any way to get better gas milege out of 2001 f250 5.4. extended cab. right now i get about 13 mpg around town and 16 mpg on the highway. Is there any hope??
You're not going to do much better than that without modifications. The 5.4 was marginal at best powering the F250/350 prior to the 300hp 3-valve, so your mpg is a result of keeping your right foot in it just to get the beast moving.
If you've got play money, you can probably add a chip to raise the power and thus use less right foot and rpm to accelerate. If that interests you, stop by the new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification Board here at Edmunds Forums.
I owned a F350 with the 7.3 L Now have a 03 150 and now with this new employee pricing deal want to get back in the larger truck......... just not sure if I want to fork over the extra 5k for a diesel.........what is the fuel ecomomy of the 6 L vs the V10??? Plus diesel gas is easily .30 cents a gallon more than gas is in my area.........I'm guessing 11-12 mpg vs. about 15-16 mpg??????
'01 F350, V10, Auto, 4x4, 3.73:1 rear end, Crew Cab, Long Bed , 10-11 strictly city; 12-14 all highway. Towing 8500 lbs ~7-9 mpg. Mileage is on lower side of range in winter due to winter blend gas. If you get a 4x2, and a stick shift and smaller truck you may do a couple mpg better.
39 gallon fillup has gotten a bit painful again, but this truck is not my daily driver. V10 is superb motor. Loads of power without the extra baggage associated with diesel care and feeding, They've tweaked V10 HP, torque , and economy a bit with the new 3 valve engine in '05.
'05 F250, has anyone used those 4 auxilary switches that are next to the trailer brake control? Is there a panel under the hood to connect auxilary accessories to that those switches turn on and off? Thanks for any info.
My '05 has 13k mis on it. At 3600 mis I went skiing at over 6k ft altitude. That was the first time I heard the vanes loudly banging (they call it flutter...that's putting it mildly). Since then I've had it to 3 different dealers for a total of 4 times but to no avail. The problem has progressed....sometimes worse, sometimes mildly intermittment, always at any altitude over 3k ft and often even at sea level. They've founds codes and addressed them; reprogramed the computer; and always say it's normal...."no new turbo for you buddy". I finally called Ford 3 weeks ago to inquire about a buy-back and was to hear back from a rep in 4 or 5 days....it has never happened. I wish a bought the V10 gas again. I had an '02 that was flawless other than lousy mileage. This is my 20th Ford and I am sick over it. I have resited spending $$ for Wheels and Tires as I want this truck fixed or gone. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
You can run anything you like that is rated for diesel engines. Closer tolerances in newer engines require thinner oil (15/40 guys are you listening) Ive been building and rebuilding caterpillar engines for 10 years. Cat recommends 10/30 for 0 to 95f. Letting your engine idle under 1K will shorten bearing and piston life Save the 15/40 for your old Pete or KW. Although I have run 15/40 in my 84 and 94 w/o no problems.
try the cam sensor all seems to point this way,my 2001 first stalled in the rain then 9 months later left me in my driveway starts and runs about 15 min then dies this would happen at street lights and restart replaced the cam sensor 30 days ago no problems to date rain and all knock on wood feel free to call i was lucky to do my research and fix myself 15 min job 80.00 part 504-945-1508 allen
the steering wheel seems to be in the 1 o'clock position while going straight and i seem to have some sort of feeling in the steering wheel while going over some bumps,i have replaced the tire rod ends ,center arm drag link and the 2 bushings for the sway bar i call it,under the radiator any help out there.also i have just come across something about those bushings as to being the wrong size 30mmas to 35mm thanks allen, e-mail ab6325@nocoxmail.com
If the truck drives straight and doesn't pull to one side or the other, you probably just need to re-center your steering wheel to get it back to the 12 o'clock position. Shop manual shows procedure on how to adjust steering box to do this.
If your front end needed all that work, did you also change the steering stabilizer? The original equipment ones wear out fairly quickly. You may be feeling bump-steer now that the rest of the front end has been tightened up.
Also, did you look at the ball-joints? The OEM ones don't have grease fittings and can take a beating from the weight of your diesel. If your tie rods, etc. were shot, odds are the ball joints aren't too far behind.
I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 5.4 2wd with 39,000 miles on it. It will be a daily driver. Tow a 19' recreational boat once a week. 500 mile trips back and forth to TX occasionally. I have several questions about the truck. What makes a Super Duty a Super Duty? Where can I find technical data/specifications for the truck (i.e. horsepower, load limits)? What repair/maintenance manual should I get and where do you find them (I do what I can and let the pros do the rest)? Thanks. I like the site. Been fun reading the posts.
I am looking to upgrade from my 99 F150 to a F250 crew. My price range has me looking at 2002s. Most of that I find have the 5.4L. The only V10 I found has 107k miles. I would like the extra towing capacity. I currently pull a 25 ft 5k lb camper about 5 trips per year. Does anyone have a V10 with high miles? What signs should look for to avoid buying a lemon. Thanks
I have a 2005 F250 v10 and I had recently changed the muffler to a Borla with a 3" inlet to dual 2.25" outlets. I absolutely hate the sound of the exhaust now. It sounds like a little honda or toyota with those large "garbage can" looking mufflers on them instead of a beefy v10. I spoke to a few people about it and I was told that because of the V10's lower compression, you lose that "throaty" sound that the v8 has and get more of a, for the lack of a better term, "farty" sound.
Any suggestions on getting a more throaty sounding exhaust short of trading in the truck?? Any thoughts on the new exhaust kit for the f250 v10 by MagnaFlow Performance?
Am contemplating buying a '94 F250 7.3 Superduty 4x4 pickup to use for work around my property. It has some 130,000 miles on it. Has had new brakes and clutch in the last year. Drive train all seems OK. Am taking it to the Ford dealer to have them check the engine. I understand that some F250s had problems with their flywheels getting out of balance.
Would be grateful for advice about what to be especially cautious about. Truck seems to run OK, though a bit slow to come to a smooth idle. It seems to have lots of power.
Have been very happy with my 1984 GMC High Sierra 6.2 diesel half ton 4x4, but really need a 3/4 ton...
I've heard the Flowmaster 50 series on a V10. But while louder than stock, it still didn't have the "V8 sound," - more like a V6 on steroids. I was told that because of firing order of V10, you get a different timing between the exhaust pulses and the system just doesn't have time to resonate like a V8. The next pulse cancels it out.
Started the truck up the morning and heard a horrible clanking noise from under the hood. Immediately turned it off and opened up the hood to find the engine covered in fine metal shavings. Could not visible see where shavings could have come from. Mechanic friend came over and started the truck up for him and he was able to see that the shavings were coming from. had wiggled the fan and was somewhat loose, took off the belt and fan became very loose. Friend thinks shavings were coming from the bearings in the water pump. Am I correct in thinking that these bearings are housed within the water pump ? Has anyone else experienced this? How difficult is it to remove the fan from the water pump? I have gotten prices from $150 -$360 for the water pump. An ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Not familiar with older 7.3L diesel, is the fan shaft mounted on the water pump? I had thought it was mounted on a separate thermostatic clutch - and run by the same belt as the water pump.
Considering the symptoms - fan very loose and metal shavings all over the engine, are you sure that the fan wasn't hitting something as it spun? Get an inspection mirror and start looking around the fan blade area, it could've been chewing into the back of the radiator or somewhere else. I know water pumps make a lot of noise when they go - but in my experience they released metal into the cooling system, not over the top of the engine. You could have two problems - a bad fan clutch and a bad water pump.
Comments
If you're still under warranty bring it to the dealers attention - have them replace weatherstrip and adjust the door.
For it D.I.Y. fix, you can try adding some 1/8 -1/4 inch diameter silicone or plastic tubing inside the current weatherstrip to beef it up so it doesn't compress as far. It will hold the door and stop the rattling.
At the top of the door, put the tubing in the rain channel above the doors. In the weather strip around the inside of the door opening there is a slit where the pieces join at the bottom. Just oil or use WD-40 to lubricate the tubing and push it in the opening at the bottom and work it a little at a time all the way around the strip. There are holes made in the weather strip where you can spray the oil in.
Now for the bad news - expect 6 to 8 mpg while towing. hehehe
I've been meaning to post my experiences some time now, but been very busy.
I have a Black 04 F250 6.0 4x4 SuperCrew XLT SB that I bought new. About 30k miles, I started noticing a 'Rough Idle' that would come and go, but seemed to manefest itself when I was at a stop light on a slight incline. I figured it was bad gas or maybe i would need the oil changed. I just ignored it, this was my first diesel.
About 32k miles, the transmisison light came on. It would come and go. The manual said it could be bad gas, so when I fueled up, it went away so I figured that's what it was.
About 33k miles transmission started slipping and jumping in the lower gears. I could drive from Mesa to Tucson without any problems until I started getting into stop and go traffic, then it was quite the ride. Floor the gas pedal, see the RPM's climb, and speed slowly increases until some breaking point and the transmission would jerk forward. There's always be some sort of strange klunk that happens when I startup and place it in reverse.
I took it to Berg Ford, they had it for about a week and said it was fixed. Some sort of faulty solenoids.
The cool thing was they gave me a rental car at no charge because it was warranty work. Well, the truck worked great until I got it back down to tucson, and started behaving worse. The transmission would start slipping and the The Tow Light would come on for some strange reason.
I drove it back, and they gave me another rental car. (5.0 Mustang Convertable was nice to drive around), so I couldnt' be that upset. Repairs took another week, and they told me to come back and pick it up.
So I drive all the way back there, and they told me it was some sort of warped solenoid pan, musta been bad workmanship. Once again the Truck works for about an hour, then same old transmssion problems. This time I would have to shut the Vehicle Down and then restart it and then it would behave ok, at least driveable. The tow light would be on at that point in time.
When I returned the vehicle for the 3rd time, they gave me some lemon escort, so I planted the flag about needed this truck fixed this time around. Everone made fun of the escort wondering what in the hell I was thinking. You traded your truck in for that!!!
I told the dealership I wanted a new transmission. They said that ford mandates that they can't give a new transmssion unless the repairs exceeded 3500 bucks. I said this was my 3rd time back, surely we are at that point. They said they could replace every part and not exceed 3500 bucks. (I'm sure since it was warranty work that's the case, but if it was on my nickle, it would be quite the different story).
Well, when I got the truck back for the 3rd time it seemed to be in pretty good shape, not 100% but maybe 95% percent.
At 48,000 miles my transmission started acting up again. Doesn't have any power when I start the thing up, seems to take forever to wind up. Once I get to 40 mph, power resumes. I changed the oil, differentials, and fuel filter and that seemed to reduce some restriction, but still no power in the lower gears. Looks like I will have to take it in again or just go with another Heavy Duty Truck brand -- what other options do I have? Shell out 4k for transmission repairs every 25k miles or so?
So naturally, I am very disappointed at this F250 6.0 TD. I bought what I considered the toughest truck and the power train has lemoned out on me. I don't do any pulling, and most of my miles are highway miles and I average about 400-425 miles on a tank.
My greviences are #1 - Issues in the first place, and #2 - Trying to Get the Thing repaired the first time, Ford should have just bolted on a new transmission and been done with it.
Hope your experiences are better.
I think that a liner cushions and protects the bed against objects that are thrown in (firewood, etc.) and might gouge the bed. Not so with a spray on. If you are concerned about things sliding around on a bed liner, put a piece of plywood in.
Now, if you value looking cool, then get a spray on that is the same color as the body and glows when lit by head lights.
Recently purchased a new 2005 F250 PSD - what a great truck! I'm trying to determine if I have a problem with the outside temperature display. When I start the truck in the morning - it reads 80 degrees (in Phoenix) and adjusts downward very quickly if it's colder than that outside. However, if it's 100 degrees outside, the adjustments are very slow going up and seem to happen only after the vehicle is traveling at least 40 mph or more. When I arrive at work in the morning, the outside temperature displays 78 degrees. When I get back in my truck around 5 p.m., it displays 78 degrees (when it's 109 degrees outside). It takes my truck 10-15 miles before the display actually gets up to 109 degrees and I have to be moving for it to do so. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what did you do to fix it.
Thx
Purchased my 2005 F250 PSD, Crewcab 4X4 in December 2004 and have experienced similar problems with my outside temp display. Since I only have 1300 miles on the truck, it has not been back to the dealer for service. This problem will be on my "hit list" when it goes in for its first service. Please post anything you find out if your truck goes in first.
My police department was recently awarded a F250 Super Duty V10 6.8 engine truck related to a drug crime. We tried to improve the performance buy trying to purchase a superchip / hypertech chip. I was informed they do not not make one for this truck.With out spending thousands of dollars how can I get some more speed out of this truck if it is possible ? I would appreciate any tips of the trade or experience with imporving truck performance..
Thanx Badge 103
kcram - Pickups Host
Diablo or Superchip - they gave more power than Banks. Note: Chips for V10 usually require Premium fuel. (Hope you can fill it up off of your department's fuel pumps.
Are you looking to improve response off the line, or you looking to increase the top end? Be advised these pickups are governed at ~95 mph. They do that because, #1 the tires on these beasts aren't made to go that fast for an sustained time. (I don't think anybody makes speed rated tires in the stock size.) Also and more importantly, the drivetrain components are designed for towing/hauling not high speeds - been told that driveshafts and front ends can grenade at sustained high speeds - which is why Ford governed it.
My stock V10 won't beat a Corvette off the line, but it still moves impressively fast for a 7500 lb. vehicle. From '99 to '02 V10s had a "minor" problem called exhaust flutter. Around 2000 rpm there was a resonance in headers/manifold y-pipe that made it sound like a diesel motor. Flutter didn't hurt engine, but in the process of trying to iron it out, Ford tried a whole bunch of different computer programs mods to reduce it. Some of the codes worked reasonably well, but others killed the engine's power when they killed the noise. You could try having a mechanic reflash the computer to try a "better code."
You can gain some improvement relatively inexpensively by helping the motor to breathe easier - you can add a K&N air filter to help the intake. A Cat-back exhaust system will help a bit too.
Folks have changed the headers, and rear end gearing, but you're getting pricey for those mods.
Thanks for answering my message. The truck is a 2001 gas engine. Top end speed is what I would like to improve if possible. The truck is governed at 95 mph like you stated. I have been looking into a K&N air flow system and possible a throttle spacer would this help the performance I am looking for ? I am not looking to make it like a Police Interceptor even thoe it would be nice just looking for a little bit more speed.
Harness for the engine going to the injectors..my '04 is in getting done as we
speak. It was on the Yahoo News last week...total about 244,000 F-250, 350,450
and 550 gas and diesel trucks....pain in the b.... stalling is one of the signs..per
the service mgr. where I went....have a nice day.
This is the link for the recall. You need to type in the truck info. I had this problem with a 2003 f250 with the new psd got a new 2005 so far so good. They say you can also call ford at 1-800-392-3673 to get the info since the trucks are not made in VIN order.
Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controler from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controler but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controller from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controller but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
THANKS
JOSH
Torque converter has varying amount of slip depending on the speed/load of the motor, the gear the tranny is in, and the speed of the truck. Slip is needed at various times for proper operation, and torque converter slip is programmed to run in a ratio to engine rotation. Shortcoming: slip is a source of inefficiency and reduces mpg. So, when truck reaches highway speed and the load is steady, the torque converter locks up, meaning it doesn't slip. The ratios is 1:1, torque converter turns once for each engine revolution.
The thing about torque converter lockup is that many time you can feel it. Almost like the truck has shifted into another gear. Some vehicles have it more pronounced than others. I feel it on my truck, depending on how I'm driving it may be subtle or at other times it's a definite bump. It's not a problem.
Now, a word of caution. You will be putting these tires on an F-250. Superduties typically come equiped with Load Range E tires, I think, at least that's what was on my F-350. I'm pretty sure my buds BFG M/T 33's are only Load Range C. You ave a very heavy truck, upwards of 7k lbs. I would venture to guess the front axle will have close to 4k lbs on it, without any sort of a load on the truck. I'm afraid the BFG's will be at, or at least very near, their load limit on the empty truck. Check out your individual axle weight ratings on the inside of the drivers door jamb. Then divide that number in half to find out how much weight each tire must support. Check out the ratings on the tires to make sure they can handle that much weight.
It's an under thirty minute fix, depends on the size of your hands. It is located on the front of the block to the left of the water pump - as you're facing the front of the truck. It's tight in that area, that's why I mentioned the size of your hands. If you go to the Ford garage, you'll pay WAY TOO MUCH for it. Find the nearest International truck dealership/parts store. That engine was made by International and they know it as the "T444E". The last time I heard anyone say, the International CPS only cost around $90.
If you've got play money, you can probably add a chip to raise the power and thus use less right foot and rpm to accelerate. If that interests you, stop by the new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification Board here at Edmunds Forums.
kcram - Pickups Host
39 gallon fillup has gotten a bit painful again, but this truck is not my daily driver. V10 is superb motor. Loads of power without the extra baggage associated with diesel care and feeding, They've tweaked V10 HP, torque , and economy a bit with the new 3 valve engine in '05.
brake control? Is there a panel under the hood to connect auxilary accessories
to that those switches turn on and off? Thanks for any info.
Closer tolerances in newer engines require thinner oil (15/40 guys are you listening)
Ive been building and rebuilding caterpillar engines for 10 years. Cat recommends 10/30 for 0 to 95f.
Letting your engine idle under 1K will shorten bearing and piston life
Save the 15/40 for your old Pete or KW.
Although I have run 15/40 in my 84 and 94 w/o no problems.
rotella-shmella. overpriced
If your front end needed all that work, did you also change the steering stabilizer? The original equipment ones wear out fairly quickly. You may be feeling bump-steer now that the rest of the front end has been tightened up.
Also, did you look at the ball-joints? The OEM ones don't have grease fittings and can take a beating from the weight of your diesel. If your tie rods, etc. were shot, odds are the ball joints aren't too far behind.
Any suggestions on getting a more throaty sounding exhaust short of trading in the truck?? Any thoughts on the new exhaust kit for the f250 v10 by MagnaFlow Performance?
Please help!
Would be grateful for advice about what to be especially cautious about. Truck seems to run OK, though a bit slow to come to a smooth idle. It seems to have lots of power.
Have been very happy with my 1984 GMC High Sierra 6.2 diesel half ton 4x4, but really need a 3/4 ton...
Thanks for help!
Barrett
I was told that because of firing order of V10, you get a different timing between the exhaust pulses and the system just doesn't have time to resonate like a V8. The next pulse cancels it out.
Considering the symptoms - fan very loose and metal shavings all over the engine, are you sure that the fan wasn't hitting something as it spun? Get an inspection mirror and start looking around the fan blade area, it could've been chewing into the back of the radiator or somewhere else. I know water pumps make a lot of noise when they go - but in my experience they released metal into the cooling system, not over the top of the engine.
You could have two problems - a bad fan clutch and a bad water pump.