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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and re-attaching it. That will reset some of the computer junk.
  • tcb74tcb74 Posts: 7
    How do I connect the recharge kit.
    The A/C has been blowing cool air for years. but it its not as cold as it use to bee .
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If the "reboot" beernut suggested doesn't work, your sensor behind the grille may be broken, or the wire connecting it to the cpu may be broken or unplugged.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Interesting question which I will answer with another question.... If you have to ask how to connect the recharge kit, are you qualified to be working on A/C? Your '84, if its original, is loaded with stuff that's really bad for the environment, according to Al Gore and shouldn't be messed with by "unqualified" people. Besides, Freon is highly expensive and if it leaked out once, it will do it again.

    I would expect a 21 year old car to be leaking refrig. from everywhere there is rubber. I wouldn't fool around with it. I took my '88 to a couple of A/C places and to one dealer to see about fixing all the leaks. All of them recommended that I replace the ENTIRE SYSTEM - for less money than replacing the rubber and refilling with rare and expensive R22 . The dealer ended up being the least expensive and with the best warranty. It was around a grand and it came charged with the new, safe juice - whatever its called - I can't remember, and has been blowing cold ever since.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    safe-juice = R-134, Algore approved, refrigerant, doubt he'd know it if he drank it straight from the blender, beernut.
  • tcb74tcb74 Posts: 7
    The compressor was replaced late 90s and system converted to R-134.
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Posts: 7
    unable to get transmission out of park . car is running and foot is on brake
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Posts: 7
    brake lights are not working, bulbs and fuses are fine,help
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    There used to be a switch on top of the brake linkage by the steering column, under the dash, that actuated the brake lights.
    Sounds like that is broken. It also may control the solenoid that locks and unlocks your shift linkage now in the newer ones. Sounds like the two problems are related.
  • shernjoshshernjosh Posts: 1
    If you don't mind my asking, what was the price you paid to have this leak fixed? I'm having the same problem...thanks much!
  • cmorris1cmorris1 Posts: 7
    I am hoping that possibly a Ford/Lincoln Engineer maybe reading this post. I can not take these Southeast Tx. summers any longer with my TC's Lack of A/C. I LOVE MY CAR. Except for the A/C. I know there have been numerous complaints from the year model 98 till today.

    My ? is:

    Is it possible to have a fix performed on my car maybe like a larger Blower Motor or something to remedy this?
  • linenwlinenw Posts: 1
    I think I'm having the same problem. I did what was described and removed the cylinder. I did not find the small switch called a " starter interrupt switch". You you give me a clue of where exactly to look? Where can I get a replacement switch and how hard is it to install?
    Thank you in advance for all you help
  • pvtc7pvtc7 Posts: 1
    On two occasions my car quit running. The first time, a "check engine" light came on and the engine stopped running. I tried an immediate restart; it failed. After a few minutes it started but only ran 1/4 mile. The outside temperature was 97 degrees. It was towed to a dealer. The retrived DTC = lean oxy sensor and egr valve blocked. The technician said he could find no reason for it to stop running and did no repairs. He didn't charge either!

    The next day at 107 degrees it stopped again. A different dealer could find no stored codes but suspected the fuel pump. He suggested running it in cooler weather. We drove it home, stopping after a couple of hours of driving. On two different occasions we got a "check engine" light but the vehicle continued to run.

    The car was getting 26 MPG so it was running fine.

    My research points to a TFI but I don't think my engine has it. The codes on the fan cowling are: EEC-IV, EFI, & DIS

    Any help really, really, appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm not an engineer, sorry, but I have researched this very problem for years, 7 of them to be exact, ever since 1998, when some HVAC engineer lost the battle for a large enough squirrel cage to blow sufficient air into the cabin of these large cars in the southern states, as I share your opinion. I can't believe Ford hasn't fixed the problem. They are aware of it, I've been told by some insiders, but they really don't get a lot of complaints about it. Part of the problem is that the registers on the Town Car are so large, that it complicates the problem by making it seem that the airflow is even worse than it actually is, because you can't feel a strong stream of air coming out of an air duct like you want to on high speed. Add to that, the rear air vents, which the Grand Marquis and Crown Vic don't have, and you do have a problem. It's underblown. Eventually, it cools down, but you'll sweat buckets until you've driven the car a half hour, and if it would blow hard, the airflow would add a lot of comfort in the interim while the cabin cools off. The pre-98 Town Car had smaller registers so you felt more air coming out faster, and I contend, had a stronger fan as well.

    I've been living in Vegas and North Florida for the past 2 years and I always rent Town Cars in Florida, which is how I notice they haven't fixed it yet. It's the one reason I don't own one.
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Posts: 7
    that was the trick!!thank you very much
  • jagman1jagman1 Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem which started a day after I had a new alternater & new battery installed. So far on the web I have read about a heater valve. Did you determine the problem?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Gotta love Ford engineers - glad it helped.
  • dabear1dabear1 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Can you tell me if you found out the problem. I have a 1996 Lincoln Towncar. Thanks
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    18 June 2005
    Robert Lane

    Dearborn, Michigan. Ford has agreed to settle lawsuits filed agaist it due to cracking intake manifolds on certain 1996-2001 4.6L engines. The engines are found in: Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car, Mustang, Cougar and Thunderbird models. The settlement could impact over 2 million vehicles and cost Ford up to $375 million USD.

    The plastic intake manifolds Ford used were plastic and were nortorious for cracking, thus causing coolant leaks.

    The terms of the settle include:

    • Ford will reimburse customers with receipts for the intake repair.
    • Ford will pay $735.00 to those without receipts, provided that they can verify with a dealership that a repair was made.
    • Ford will extend the warranty coverage for customers whose intakes have not failed.

    Ford lost an appeal earlier in the year to have the case dismissed.

    Updates at
  • Can only ready message center at night. Only MPH can be read during daylight. How do I remove and replace it?

    Chuck Graham
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    I have the same problem on my 95 TC. I have been told that the wiper motor will have to be replaced. I have found a way to park them by hand. It is a minor anoisance, But it works. What I do is: With the key on I stand where I can reach both the wipers and the switch. I then turn on the wipers to the first notch, let them come up the first time, when they park, before the next up stroke turn off the switch and hold the arm to stop them, then push them down to park.
    This works for me.
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    The next time it fails to start, try holding the shift lever up into park. If this works then the switch needs adjusting. This would only be the cause if the starter does not engage. The fuel pump cannot keep the starter from engageing.
    good luck!
  • copascopas Posts: 1
    Is there a better way to connect the small wire at the starter? It has a 'male' blade on the starter and a push on connector on the wire. They are prone to corrode and give you a 'no start' at an akward time. You would not believe the problems this caused over the years. Lincoln bought me several starters, several solenoids and one wiring harness. It even fooled the computer diagnostics at the dealers. After the car was out of warranty I learned what was causing the problem and tied a nylon string to the connector and ran it up to an access point under the hood I can't tell you how many times this saved me a toe. Just a wiggle and it would start. Now I am going to sell the car and I would like a real fix before I offer it. I'm from the old copper bolt school of engineering. Thanks all.
  • pilgrim1pilgrim1 Posts: 2
  • pilgrim1pilgrim1 Posts: 2
    What sounds like the turn signal relay comes on ramdomly by its self and clicks rapidly without the turning the lights on. It will often stay on long enough for the courtesy warning bell to come on. It will stop when the break is applied.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Posts: 654
    I purchased my beloved 1990 Town Car (affectionally known as "Mr. LTC!") new. It now has 147,000 relativally trouble free miles. For the first time it needs an high cost repair. My mechanic who has done all the repairs on it and I trust, says I should repaired it repair although the repair is almost what it's worth. I very comfortable and trust this car very much. Now I'm considering doing a almost full restoration especially since I cannot afford a new Lincoln must less anything else, that is NOT FWD. Is this a bad idea?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Because I'm the original owner of a '94 TC with 117,000 miles, I understand your feelings about your TC. Not knowing what repairs are needed, one can only guess it's either the engine, transmission, or rear axle. If the engine, my recomendation would be to invest in the 4.6L OHC that came out in '91. I had your 302 powerplant in a previous TC so having the experience with both, the 4.6L OHC engine is preferred. Much preferred.

    If the AOD transmission needs repair, repair it.
    If the rear axle needs repair, repair it. (mine cost $1100, but it is worth it)
    If all three need repair - bury it or part it out and watch e bay for a low miler TC.
  • towncarttowncart Posts: 1

    I have a Lincoln Town Car 2000 Cartier model and live in the UK. The car has gold plated lettering in individual letters on the rear trunk lid. Someone has pulled off one of the 'L' letters. Does anyone know where I can get replacement letters and get them shipped to the UK? Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Well, I wouldn't restore it for a daily driver, I'd sell it and look for a lower mileage 95-97 replacement. But that's just me......
  • Yes, that sounds like a bad idea.
    Every individual part of that car is expensive, old and has 147,000 miles on it.
    It's 15 years old and worn out.
    Move on.
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