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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • casaugcasaug Posts: 3
    How do I remove the cover to the headlights and parking lights? The owner's manual shows three pins on the top that are to be pulled upward, but my car seems to have only two connection points on top, and the cover seems to pull across two pegs. (The pegs seem fixed.) I don't want to crack the cover or ruin the water seal around the cover, so I could use some help.
  • The problem with these tc's is during hard braking the brake pedal will depress down to even or below the level of the gas pedal. If your foot is not squarely on the brake pedal and overlapping onto the gas pedal, you will be applying gas at the same as trying to stop. The 05 is better than the 02 but has happened to me twice on the 05. My previous 02 was terrible to the point I complained to the dealer who said that was normal. I nearly got into 2 accidents but was able to recover in time because I was aware of the problem. The real problem is that the brake pedal has to much "travel", allowing your foot to engage the gas pedal at the same time. Anybody else experienced this problem? You have to concentrate on your braking habits. These cars are no good for people with big feet!!!
  • garsarnogarsarno Posts: 72
    The transmission was fixed / $524 before PA taxes. Replaced AA Connector / AA Gasket / Screen Assembly / 6 quarts trans fluid / BA Connector / VHA Wire Assembly. Labor of 8 hours (2 diagnostic) included removing lower pan and main control, replaced wiring harness and bulk head connector, overhauled main control. Parts were $134 / Labor $390. Trans shifts smoothly / no more warning lights.
  • gene42gene42 Posts: 11
    I encountered the identical problem with my 2005 TC. It seems to be characteristic of the model that the brake pedal has too much "travel". My dealer said that there is nothing that can be done about it. I have trained my braking so that I am careful that my size 13's rest squarely on the brake pedal without overlapping on to the accelerator.

    In similar situations drivers have complained of what is known as unintended acceleratiion blaming the engine somehow. Googling "unintended acceleration" reveals that it is most often a matter of depressing the accelerator while missing or only partially depressing the brake pedal. The problem mars what is otherwise a truly excellent car.
  • When I complained of brake pedal overtravel on my 2003 TC, the dealer suggested that I back off the pedal position from the full bottom position. I did so, and the brake pedal has a more firm feel. If you have your adjustment all the way down, you might try that.
  • karen50karen50 Posts: 1
    how do I remove the headlights and replace new ones?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    With the hood raised, you should see a black cover about nine inches long over each head light. These covers have a snap clip at one end. Remove the covers and twist the white light bulb sockets one-quarter turn to remove the bulbs. You should also be able to see the nuts which hold the head light assemblies. Use a socket wrench to remove the headlight assemblies.
  • ltc03ltc03 Posts: 2
    I JUST BOUGHT AN 03 AND WAS IN THE SAME BOAT. IN 03 THEY STOPPED PLACING THEM ON THE CAR. MINE WAS FOUND IN THE TRUNK ON THE ARM. YOU MAY TRY THE TRUNK
  • :cry::cry: hi all,
    can anyone out there tell me much about fault code p1451 manufactor specific powertrain. what does this mean and where is it located. car is running but as soon as you try to rev it just cuts out.its like is getting fuel starvation.
    p1451 is the only fault code coming up
    please help!!
  • ltc03ltc03 Posts: 2
    Does anyone get a lift er knocking noise when they start there TC. I took it to the dealer and of coarse they just cant find a problem or can not get it to make the noise. They told me what I was hearing was the compressor for the ac making the noise. We all can tell the difference. I went and got in my car and started it with the ac on and I got the loud est grunt clattering noise from the hood. I had never heard this before. Needles to say I was HOT! I went in and told them and of coarse it could not be duplicated. This is crap! Can anyone give advise to what that noise could have been or a good dealership in the Houston area?

    Also, My car is de programing it self with the auto locks and horn chirp. It will work for around a month then its gone. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. Please if anyone has advice let me know Thanks.
  • First start of the day or every time?

    Does it make that sound if you start it with the climate control shut off?

    A "grunt" or "clattering"?

    I agree with the dealer, it sounds like the compressor.
  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    95 TC Executive with 49,600 miles. I’ve been through the rear air suspension nightmare the last couple of years and, after reading your site, had it replaced with springs and fixed forever for $288. I wish I had happened on your site before I spent $1600 on a new compressor and air bags. But, we live and learn. The cruise control seemed to go out during the blown fuses and turmoil of the suspension problem. I believe they share a fuse or two. All fuses check good. The cruise light on the dash won’t go on, and it will not engage. The same dealer that wanted to install another new compressor (not for free) told me the cruise switch needed replacing. Being suspicious, I took out the switch to check it. It has power and the little blue light is on. I checked out the Motor manual, but the printing is too small for me to read. Does anyone have a checklist to look for possible solutions under the hood? Is there a relay somewhere? Could the compressor problem fry something in the cruise control system? Should I be able to see something move when it’s turned on? I love the car and just want everything to work correctly. Thanks for any suggestions.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    I've experienced the ticking sound,immediately after cold startup,on several of the TCs with 4.6L engines that I have owned. The ticking sound went away when the engines warmed-up. I suspected that a rocker arm, tappet, or camshaft lobe was slightly out of tolerance. Having removed the valve cover gaskets, to see what it would take to stop the noise, I decided that as long as the noise went away after warm-up, I would not attempt the repair.
    AC compressor knock is distinctive from valve tapping noise and it goes away as soon as AC system is turned off. At 23,000 miles this car is still under warranty and the dealer should be more helpful to resolve the problems. Take the car to the dealer and let it sit overnight in their "Early Bird" repair area. Make arrangements so that you can be there when the car is started the first time the next morning with a dealer repair tech or service manager present.
  • bulanekbulanek Posts: 2
    My car was working great about 110k miles when the check engine light started coming on and off shortly a day later my car started acting up when its cold it seems it will not change gears after driving a few blocks all is well? any ideas? I do belive an ozygen sensor may be out
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    Remove the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and clean it. This is the component with the security screws located near the air filter. This is a delicate item. I usually use a cotton swab and some alcohol or electrical parts cleaner to clean the two small wires that are inside this item. If it is not functioning properly, it will cause the engine to mis fire, idle roughly, or may prevent the engine from starting.
  • dlottdlott Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2001 Lincoln Town Car, Signature Series. My problem is I can't set the remote transmitters to adjust the Memory seats/pedals/mirrors. I follow the instructions in the Owners Manual, and everything goes as the manual says, except that in addition to the door locks, the remote only operates the memory seats. What is the problem with the mirrors and the pedals?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    Make sure that you have correctly set the memory with the memory control buttons on the door panel. From the door buttons, place the seats, pedals, and mirrors in the positions that you like and set them. Next, intentionally make changes to them. Push the set button on the door to verify that they all go back to your set original positions. Set the remotes to open the doors. Again change all the positions, close and lock the doors, then use the remotes to open the car. You should see the items reposition themselves. Since you just purchased this car, hopefully, you received a warranty. If there is a problem with the car, take it back to your dealer for repair.
  • bulanekbulanek Posts: 2
    Engine runs great the only problem is the transmition dosent seem to want to work at first I start the engine and start to drive but no matter how hard i push the gas the car goes real slow then some poping nosises and all is fine sometimes it takes longer to start working then others
  • We were able to jump it off and it would start for about a week and then would have to do it again. It quit jumping and we cleaned the pos. cable and it started with a marine battery (belonged to a friend). Back to not cranking, had starter tested, works. Bought new solenoid, same problem. Bought reman. alternator, same problem. Where to go from here? Please help!
  • dlottdlott Posts: 4
    Don't know about the original problem, but do know from experience that a Marine battery is not a good idea. They do not have enough cranking power, especially for a TC. They are designed to give moderate power over a long time, like a trolling motor. A TC needs high power for a short time and the Marine battery cannot provide that. My TC burned up several starters and alternators before I found out that I had mistakenly installed a Marine battery!
  • dlottdlott Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I now have the memory features working with the remotes!
  • Marine battery was only used once. Any ideas on what to try to get it started?
  • prost632prost632 Posts: 1
    can some one help me out to what this code means,air bag code 10,thanks steve
  • dwattsdwatts Posts: 1
    I had a similar experience with my '92. Happened four times over a period of about 3 years, the first time on a hot day at about 9000ft elevation, second time on a hot day at about 7000ft elevation, third time on a hot day near Redding, and fourth time near Los Angeles, not even a particularly hot day, but it was at the end of a particularly hard non-stop run from Sacramento.

    This all occurred before the California-mandated recall of Ford products for their solid-state ignition module. I was at a loss to explain what was happening. The short-term solution was simple -- just wait 15 minutes or so, and it would drive normally - for months. Then it would happen again, but not in any predictable situation.

    I couldn't explain it; my mechanic couldn't explain it; the dealer couldn't explain it. In desperation, I finally ordered the fuel pump replaced. No reason to think it was causing the problem, just that I couldn't think of anything else, and I wanted to do SOMETHING.

    I've never had a recurrence of the problem. The fuel pump replacement was done at about 85,000 miles, and I'm now at 213,000 miles.

    For those who are unaware of the ignition module problem, it was said to be caused by a solid-state device that was located inside the distributor. The symptoms were the same as we're describing -- sudden, total loss of power, that occurs almost randomly, except that it seems to be more-or-less related to hot weather. California forced a fix that basically consisted of replacing the module with one that mounted on the firewall, where it presumably would get better cooling.

    My car was already over 100,000 miles when that mandated fix came out, and was thus exempt from the ruling. So that repair was never done on my car.

    -duane
  • oorickoooorickoo Posts: 2
    I have A 99 town car and the air bag light is coming on.
    I need HELP please
    Rick
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    It may be best to take this to the Lincoln dealer. However, if you attempt any checks or repairs on the Air Bag System, first, disconnect the battery and do nothing to the system for at least a minute. The system has its own backup power supply and tampering with the system will make the air bags inflate. The system has a separate computer system, the air bag diagnostic monitor, which is located on the passenger side of the car. So addition to conducting an analysis of the onboard diagnostic module, the air bag monitor has to be checked. Take a look at the crash sensors which are at the front of the vehicle for anything that looks unusual. If you have to do anything more than securing a simple connection, take the car to the dealer. Air bag replacements are expensive.
  • dlottdlott Posts: 4
    Speaking from experience, it cost me $3000 to get my '92 TC Air Bag lite to stay off! They replaced the up/down load level sensors, the computer, the air bags, the compressor and everything else that they could think of. As it turned out, it was a wire chaffing against the air conditioner compressor mount, which was causing a FALSE air bag error warning light! Good Luck!
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You have hit on one of the repair practices that plague the auto owner. When a repair shop goes through the process of "Trial & Error" they are admitting they don't know how to fix it. So, why should they be rewarded for their stumbling through the problem by our paying for their experimentation? Enough is enough. :(
  • ben02910ben02910 Posts: 1
    Hi my name is ben and my friend has a 92 lincoln and the window has fallen down and wont come up. I have tried to push it up by taking the door apart but the window just wont go up. Its almost like its stuck any suggestions? You can contact me at [email protected]
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    After removing the door panel, loosen the nuts on the door which hold the power window assembly. This should loosen the window. You should be able to place the window back in the window track. Remove the power window switch from the door panel and connect it to the connector to verify the the window goes up and down.
  • egkoregkor Posts: 24
    Hi,

    I have a '95 T/C with approx. 95K miles that sometimes, after being driven enough to get the engine compartment hot, will not restart after being shut off.

    It does not always happen, but it has happened three times recently, enough to make me lose confidence in the car. I would really like to "nail" this issue at minimal expense.

    When it happens, I open the hood to let the engine compartment cool, and then the engine will start again.

    When it is in this "will not start" mood, then engine will crank per normal, just does not fire. After I open the hood and wait approx. 5 to 10 minutes, the engine will fire up right away.

    I read earlier messages about tightening the ground at the battery, I've done that. No change.

    If this is a ignition module issue, could someone please post an accurate description of the location of the module?

    Thanks very much,
    -Gary K
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Once after towing a boat up to the lake on a hot day, our 82 Town Car would not start after launching the boat. I placed some ice cubes in a little baggie and set it on the ignition module and the engine started right away. Re: location of your module on your 95, I'm not sure.
  • freddymzfreddymz Posts: 1
    Hey I have a 98 lincoln and i was wondering if i could put a sound system (woofers amp and cd player) would it be alright or are there some problems if i was to go ahead and install the new equipment or is just a cd changer recommended
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    This car has a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which is located on the driver's side fire wall. It does not have an ignition module like on the older cars. I suspect though that your problem is not the PCM. It may be that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced. Remove the Mass Air Flow Sensor and clean it. This is the component with the security screws located near the air filter. This is a delicate item. I usually use a cotton swab and some alcohol or electrical parts cleaner to clean the two small wires that are inside this item. If it is not functioning properly, it will cause the engine to mis fire, idle roughly, or may prevent the engine from starting. Has your service engine light been coming on?
  • Gary: Had this problem, again with a '95 town car. Replacing the fuel pump didn't work. What DID work was replacing the fuel injector switch(es). These cost $15 at a dealer and they instructed my husband how to install them which was a 5-10 minutes job. Haven't had that problem since. I still seem to have excessive 'chiming' when starting and turning off the car, but can live with this. Shoemaker
  • Gary, sorry, but I gave you incorrect information on my post of April 15. My husband says the replacements parts are RELAY SWITCHES. Rest of post was correct, i.e. $15 cost and easy installation.
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    symtoms previously were engine would turn over normally but not start. If key is off and the radio is on it will time off at 8 to 10 minutes. After it goes off the engine will start. That has been ongoing on sporatically for over 6 months. We could handle the time lapse on most occasions. Today,04-17-06, I started out and at about 5 minutes into the ride the engine quit. The engine will not start now. The battery is good, the MAF is clean, the engine will turn over fine but will not run.I have replaced the spark plugs . There is no fire at them. The motor has 140,000 miles on it. When it would run it was smooth and everything would work. The key on gives air bag code Of 5-3 . I am A working person and can't afford A machanic. I would appreciate good help Thanks
  • where is the security code sticker located? I already checked the trunk
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The code is usually on the hinge bracket on trunk lid. You can sometimes find it on one of the doors looking around the gasket areas.
  • egkoregkor Posts: 24
    I want to say "thanks" to everyone who replied to my "won't start" post.

    The next thing I try will be to replace the fuel pump relay. I know where that is at.

    Thanks again!

    -Gary K
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The answer to my 95 not starting was the EEC relay located in A device on the drivers fender well. The unit holds three relays with an external diode. The part was only 15 dollars. The help came from the local pepboys crew who knew what it was without putting it on an analyzer. Experience counts alot in this persons world .
  • egkoregkor Posts: 24
    Thanks for posting this!

    One of the three relays is the fuel pump relay, this is the part I intend to replace in my '95 TC.

    At $15.00 it is an inexpensive thing to try.

    Thanks again!

    -Gary K
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    I think you were very fortunate Pepboys knew that they were doing.

    One of my automotive repair peeves is an ASE certified techi at a service station will guess at what part needs to be replaced and plays around with a diagnostic console. Trial and Error repair is not professional and IMO should not be supported by paying for replacing a part that was NOT the fault. The dealership found the part needing to be replaced, but the service techie didn't know to replace the MAF, but the techie expects to be paid. :(
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    I'll see if anyone can help me on the brake problem. The car will drive short distances under 2 miles and I will not notice any problems. If the ride is longer the front brakes start siezing on both sides. I will have to stop the car or the wheels get so hot that I'm afraid there could be A fire. It really starts getting hard to move and the transmission lets me know to stop.The engine works harder. I like the car . It has A leaking air suspension but I don't want to tackle that until the brake situation is remedied. Thanks
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    I have recently changed the battery in my 90 town car and now when i went to close the trunk lid, the power motor will not take the trunk lid down. Is there a relay switch or sensor that may bave tripped and now will not let the lid to come down, or is there a by pass fuse or switch to shut if off so i can close trunk lid??????? Please help there is rain in them there clouds over the rise lol thank you........ Mr.C
    [email protected]
  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    I can't help you with the brake problem, but sure can help you with the leaking air suspension. Please see my entry #318 on the 95 TC. It's common to replace the entire system with 2 coil springs and seems to work perfectly. I drive it almost every day and notice no difference in the ride or handling. I haven't loaded down the trunk area yet. This could possibly affect the car attitude some, but it's fixed for good. I highly recommend it. I assume any good general repair shop can do it.
    Now, could someone please advise me on the problem with my cruise control in #318? Thanks
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Either exchange your new battery for a more powerful one and/or get the battery fully charged. Same thing happened to me and a fully charged battery enabled the pull down to work.
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    thank you very much,,,, there is a second option for a stronger battery they offered me, but was told it was for the heated windshield only that it draws more ampige for that only but not for the trunk lid. thanks again i do have to get new starter put in or keep hitting it with hammer lol. after i put new battery in and only let it run for 20min i shut it off and it wouldn't start again. take care and thank you again..... have a good one
  • hisselfhisself Posts: 3
    RE: 1995 Town Car Signature - Passenger side

    I got the door panel off yesterday. Now, I need to figure out how to change the regulator. It appears to be rivetted in place, and the motor appears rivetted to the regulator.

    :sick:

    Any ideas?
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    I took battery back and they fully charged for me and when i put it in the problem is still there it will not draw it down, looks like im going to have to take it back and spend another 40bucks for the stronger battery. i will let you know if this solves the trunk lid problem, because it worked before i changed it now it doesn't. i hope it isn't the motor..... chat back at ya again
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