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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    you may want to take this to and see what they say... They're pretty good at problems.
  • I drive a limo with a radio dispatch system. I am in NYC. Every day I send messages to my company and the radio send signal will always trigger a parked car alarm. There must be some frequency used in these radios that trigger car alarms. It always amazes me. Maybe you problem has to do with a police car or taxi radio signal. If so, you will never solve the problem.
  • Hi, I had the SAME problem with my remote start after it was installed, in my 2003 T/C Signatures Series... I had to return to where I had it installed and they had to make some modification to the unit. The Tech said it had to do with all the electronics/computerized equipment in the newer cars. I don't know what they did to correct it. If your installer can not correct it contact me off line and I will give you the name & address where I had mine done. Perhaps if your tech calls them they might share the information. j/h
  • RE: Alarm sounding off Factory Installed Anti theft device is built into the electronics.
    We finally figured out that our mechanic didn't have a clue as to how to fix this. I went to a body shop and asked who handled their electronics when a car had to be fixed after an accident. He sent me to a young guy who installs alarms, fixes the electronics for his body shop. First, he tried a simple fix of grounding a wire. That worked for 3 days - then the alarm went off and the car wouldn't start! It was parked. The car had to be towed to the electronics guy.
    The next day we picked the car up. He explained as every one said: the computer is wired TO ALL THE ELECTRONICS in the car..the horn, the lights, etc.They are not linked separately. He printed a copy of the electronics schematic showing us the wiring diagram of what was connected/built in to the computer. He said the computer in the car is a "lemon"....What he did? He bypassed wires to the horn, the front and back lights, the power windows, etc. He said the alarm may still go off, but we won't hear it because of the bypassed wires. Several of his customers told me that he can fix anything! The tradeoff for bypassing the wires, the time on the dashboard clock fades out. We can live with that! Better than the horn blaring! He told us he could try to replace something in the computer that costs $875 but if it didn't work -- he could not return it and we would be stuck with it -- he wasn't confident it would work anyway. He is confident that the bypassed wires will work. He guaranteed the horn will not blare, or lights flash and our car would always start, related to the fixed alarm problem.
    We had the EGR valve replaced and the engine light is no longer on ....after 4 years!! The electronics guy recommended a new mechanic to us.
    So far -- so good! Thanks for all of your suggestions. April :)
  • Hi Folks. I'm looking for a used Original Equipment in dash GPS system for my 03 Signatue Series Lincoln. Should you know of one please let me know. Thanks, J/N
  • 2000 lincoln town car. starts off in first, goes to second, but will not go beyond. do i need to replace entire transmission. should I go to dealer or transmission repair specialist
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    It would help if you advised the mileage on the car, when you purchased it, new or used, & if the oil in the tranny has been changed.
  • 2000 Lincoln Town, 130,000 miles, Transmission oil changes @ 120, 000. Original owner, serviced every 5k
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I think it's done for......
  • I had a similar experience with my one week old '05 Signature Town Car but fortunately there was no crash involved. I suspect that the cause relates to the distance the brake pedal has to go before becoming effective. As one pivots on one's heel between the brake and accelerator in slow moving traffic, it seems possible that the brake and accelerator can be pressed together. I intend to research this issue further. Meanwhile, I hope other readers in this forum might respond. Is it typical for the Town Car to have a "soft" brake pedal where it has to be depressed an unusual distance before taking hold?
  • I have a 1994 Lincoln Town Car. Recently the check air suspension light has been on. If I turn the switch in the trunk off and drive the car, will I be doing anything damaging?
  • The warm 'no start' problem seemed to get worse. During the last week, each day I used it (I make losts of short trips), there was a warm 'no start' each day. Along with it was unusual chiming. The chimes would continue even after ignition was turned off, key removed and door opened. Was suggested by a mechanic to replace the pair of fuel pump relays ($15 plus tax). Was an easy job done by a non-mechanic. That seems to have taken care of the problem. I gave it a good (stop and start) test the past couple of days and it started each time and the excess chiming has stopped.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    There are air lines running from the compressor to the rear air bags. Recommend they be inspected and replaced. If one of the bags needs to be replaced, it is worth the cost to do that for a knowledgeable buyer will want them fixed so you might just as well fix the unit now and get the use of it.

    Turning the switch in the trunk off won't hurt anything, but don't let the mother in law ride in the back seat. :D
  • Actually, I am the mother-in-law! Are there cheaper ways of doing it than taking it to the dealer? I'm a woman and don't know these things. I love my Lincoln and have no thoughts of selling it, although, as we know, one cannot see into the future. Thanks and Mahalo
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    A good mechanic who works on suspensions can do it. It's not terribly complex, but may require some special tools to do. I'm not sure the dealer price will be that bad though, you may want to check it out.
  • Problem with LTC 1985. Runs well after start, but refuses to start cold or hot without a cap full of gas. 3 places could not fix it, so I will with your help. What is most likely and first to check. I have fixed several other "problem cars" but this one is new to me. Has TB not C and need to know the starting sequence to refresh my understanding of just how it is to work. Thanks, [email protected]
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Had an 82 Sig, 302 TB from new to '94. What worked for me was to turn the ignition key to the "ON" and wait for the electric fuel pump to push fuel into the TB. After the electric fuel pump shut off, I turned the key further to "Start". Ran it 12 years and 125k miles. Good Luck. :)
  • Thank you for that info, BUT I do not hear anything like a FP starting. So:
    1. Where is the FP located.
    2. Should the pump run in the key on position from a COLD START - FROM A HOT START?
    3. Since after pouring a cap of gas in the TB it starts and runs just fine, I can see your idea for a cold start - no fule pressure, so it has to run the FP to allow the FI to prime it, BUT after it is hot and I stop to get a beer and it also refuses to restart after just five minutes, am I wrong to think the fule pressure is still at (x pounds) and would it still need a 2 second FI to prime start it when it is hot?
    4. From the front, looking at the TB there are 2 FIs in the TB. What is job of each one? Could I un plug one to prove it is not working? One on left is different than one on the right?
    [email protected]
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425

    (1) FP is within the gas tank in a depression of the tank. Never run out of gas!

    (2) Yes. If too much fuel is pumped, there is a return line going back to the tank.

    (3) Yes, it would still need 2 seconds to start again.

    (4) One distributes fuel to one bank of cylinders and the other to the other bank.

    (5) Why one on left is different or why one on right is different makes one wonder if one of the injectors is not the correct one for that TB.

    I once tanked up with some bad gas and limped through the tank. When empty, I poured a can of Chevron Techrolene in the tank while the engine was idling rough. Within a minute the idle smoothed out, the injectors were cleaned of olifin and normalcy from then on. Have you replaced the fuel filter recently?
  • alstr1alstr1 Posts: 1
    We are having major problems with our 2004 t/c's.They basically in the heat of the day are running rough,spittin & sputtering and wont go over 40mph. We have looked at this problem from every angle as far as our fuel supply to some one sabotaging us. We fuel 75% of the time at the same location so that was our first stop. Hess pulled the filters from this 2yr old location and found nothing wrong with the fuel no water or bad mix. Next stop was the dealership(who sucks). They at first were not finding anything wrong with the cars bec the check engine light was NOT on and again this problem would only occur if the car was run for awhile in the heat of the day. So after persitant arguing with Ford Fleet and the dealership they came back and told us that the fuel pumps were burning out due to the vehicles being run out of gas..This is totally not the case.Not one of the 8 cars that are having this problem were run out of fuel we know this for a fact. So after qustioning the technican at the dealership as to how do you tell the diffrence between a burnt out fuel pump vs a fuel pump that was burnt out from being run out of gas..YOU CANT.. So now they have replaced fuel pumps and here we are again back to the same problem...We have looked at the facts of ok maybe someone is trying to ruin us..Not the case our security is actuallly state of the art and our parking lot is well lit and not one camera has picked up anybody in the lot. So we are really at a loss.. We cant get any help or reassurance from the dealership bec they will do anything to get out of warranty work.. Ford fleet has no answers and I have cars i cant even send to the corner store.. They are all 2004's with roughly 50-60,000 miles. We purchased them from the auction and up to this past month they have been great cars with NO problems. We have kept them serviced with regular oil changes and have replaced all the fuel filters more then once but nothing seems to help. It only works for a day or 2 then bam back to this same old running rough.We are really at our witts end anybody else having such a problem or anyone have any advice?
    Thank-you its much appreciated.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You are fueling at the same source 75% of the time. Perhaps the quality of fuel is olifin rich and detergent poor. Olifin rich fuel plugs injectors. Recommend a bottle of Chevron's Techroline be poured in an almost empty fuel tank while the engine is running rough. If the engine smooths out, then you know to purchase your fuel from a higher quality source. Higher octance does not necessarily mean a fuel that is NOT olifin rich. Wish you good luck at minimal expense.
  • Since you left out the post of the questions, I have to try:
    1. So with the pump in the tank, you must open the tank cap and put ear to it and try to hear the pump run on start up - yes- have another person turn it on and listen, is this correct?

    2. ok, so where is the switch that tells the pump to start because it it low pressure or is it always on if the key is in on position?

    3. Then each FI should have power for 2 seconds when key is turned on - can measure with voltmeter?

    4. What a hog - gets 8.5 mpg.

    5. If any difference in FI, then would cause engine to run poorly - runs just fine, smooth as silk.


    6. I see the wires infront of the TB - is this just a pass through to the 2 FI?

    7. Computer must tell FI to run for 2 seconds EACH TIME the key GOES TO ON, is this correct and is this a seporate timer or a part of the computer that runs the car? Is the box bad?

    BTY: you have been very kind to help me, thanks. Bill.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    1. Not necessarily. The fuel pump should be heard in the cabin unless there is a lot of outside noise. I heard it in our 82 TC, hear it in our 94 TC, & 95 TB.

    2. No switch unless you consider it to be the ignition switch. I think it is always running after the ignition switch is "ON".

    3. I don't know if it can be measured with a VM. I never did that.

    4. Poor mileage if standing and letting the engine idle is not unusual.

    5. Runs smooth? O K. I understood it didn't do smooth. My mistake. Sorry.

    6.Don't know, can't remember back 11 years.

    7.The 2 seconds is to give the TB opportunity to inject fuel into the manifold and combustion chambers. The fuel pump usually runs while the engine is running.
    It could be a separate timer, but I would guess it's part of the computer that runs the car. I don't know or can't tell from here if the box is bad.

    Your very welcome and Good Luck.
  • literally all 4.6 liter town engine have tight shudder vibration at varying rpms; can be felt easily in neutral running rpms slowly up and down the 0-3000 rpm level or so...anybody know why? very disturbing, listened to some 30 different used cars..
  • 99 town car 'jumps' into first coming to a stop; LM has a bulletin on this but I cant get it; any ideas and/or solutions? nothing like the old 85 tranis....
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    So does the 5.4L Intech 32V. I don't know why either - but once I found out they all do it, I quit thinking about it. Until you brought it up.
  • so you are referring to the engine vibration, as i posted another on the tranis too; still a mystery isnt it.....older ones with 180K plus sounds like &(*& and you wouldnt even drive them. how many miles do you have on yours? getting worse?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Mine has done it since the first mile I had on it - but no, it's not getting any worse. I have 33,000 miles on it. Love the engine, and as I said, I don't even notice it anymore. The power train has been flawless on my Navigator, I really like it.
  • I have a 95 Signature series that just went in for Pa inspection and was told the frame is rusted and is not safe to drive. Just bought the car two months ago.
    The car is roomy and love the seats. Just went and purchased a 94 Executive and the interior doesn't seem as roomy as the other car and the seats aren't very comfortable.
    I have nerve damage in my back and the seats are important. I admit I was too quick to buy this one,but is has a new inspection.
    Has anyone heard of the frame rusting so bad with on ly 127,000 miles and it was a one owner car. I also had the brake lines all repaced due to rusting and now this.
    Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First - mileage makes little difference in rust, time and age does though. This car was evidently abused in some way for the frame to rust to that degree - it is not normal.

    Secondly, there is a big difference between the seats on a Signature and an Executive. The Signature seats are much better. Also, the 95 was a significant change in the interior of the Town Car, so there could be some dimension changes.

    If you have back trouble, a Signature would be better for you.
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