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In similar situations drivers have complained of what is known as unintended acceleratiion blaming the engine somehow. Googling "unintended acceleration" reveals that it is most often a matter of depressing the accelerator while missing or only partially depressing the brake pedal. The problem mars what is otherwise a truly excellent car.
can anyone out there tell me much about fault code p1451 manufactor specific powertrain. what does this mean and where is it located. car is running but as soon as you try to rev it just cuts out.its like is getting fuel starvation.
p1451 is the only fault code coming up
please help!!
Also, My car is de programing it self with the auto locks and horn chirp. It will work for around a month then its gone. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. Please if anyone has advice let me know Thanks.
Does it make that sound if you start it with the climate control shut off?
A "grunt" or "clattering"?
I agree with the dealer, it sounds like the compressor.
AC compressor knock is distinctive from valve tapping noise and it goes away as soon as AC system is turned off. At 23,000 miles this car is still under warranty and the dealer should be more helpful to resolve the problems. Take the car to the dealer and let it sit overnight in their "Early Bird" repair area. Make arrangements so that you can be there when the car is started the first time the next morning with a dealer repair tech or service manager present.
This all occurred before the California-mandated recall of Ford products for their solid-state ignition module. I was at a loss to explain what was happening. The short-term solution was simple -- just wait 15 minutes or so, and it would drive normally - for months. Then it would happen again, but not in any predictable situation.
I couldn't explain it; my mechanic couldn't explain it; the dealer couldn't explain it. In desperation, I finally ordered the fuel pump replaced. No reason to think it was causing the problem, just that I couldn't think of anything else, and I wanted to do SOMETHING.
I've never had a recurrence of the problem. The fuel pump replacement was done at about 85,000 miles, and I'm now at 213,000 miles.
For those who are unaware of the ignition module problem, it was said to be caused by a solid-state device that was located inside the distributor. The symptoms were the same as we're describing -- sudden, total loss of power, that occurs almost randomly, except that it seems to be more-or-less related to hot weather. California forced a fix that basically consisted of replacing the module with one that mounted on the firewall, where it presumably would get better cooling.
My car was already over 100,000 miles when that mandated fix came out, and was thus exempt from the ruling. So that repair was never done on my car.
-duane
I need HELP please
Rick
I have a '95 T/C with approx. 95K miles that sometimes, after being driven enough to get the engine compartment hot, will not restart after being shut off.
It does not always happen, but it has happened three times recently, enough to make me lose confidence in the car. I would really like to "nail" this issue at minimal expense.
When it happens, I open the hood to let the engine compartment cool, and then the engine will start again.
When it is in this "will not start" mood, then engine will crank per normal, just does not fire. After I open the hood and wait approx. 5 to 10 minutes, the engine will fire up right away.
I read earlier messages about tightening the ground at the battery, I've done that. No change.
If this is a ignition module issue, could someone please post an accurate description of the location of the module?
Thanks very much,
-Gary K
The next thing I try will be to replace the fuel pump relay. I know where that is at.
Thanks again!
-Gary K
One of the three relays is the fuel pump relay, this is the part I intend to replace in my '95 TC.
At $15.00 it is an inexpensive thing to try.
Thanks again!
-Gary K
One of my automotive repair peeves is an ASE certified techi at a service station will guess at what part needs to be replaced and plays around with a diagnostic console. Trial and Error repair is not professional and IMO should not be supported by paying for replacing a part that was NOT the fault. The dealership found the part needing to be replaced, but the service techie didn't know to replace the MAF, but the techie expects to be paid.
readyforall@hotmail.com
Now, could someone please advise me on the problem with my cruise control in #318? Thanks
I got the door panel off yesterday. Now, I need to figure out how to change the regulator. It appears to be rivetted in place, and the motor appears rivetted to the regulator.
:sick:
Any ideas?