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It's a good thought, scooter - I tried that on my Navigator, but it didn't help. So evidently, something must be removed to get the oil to the switch as April says.
If the shudder is due to misfire, it may be happening above 40 but you can't feel it with the V8 at high rpm's.
My dad taught me early on that if you have a lot of stuff to replace on a good running car, replace the items one at a time, then run it so that if you did effect something negatively, you can isolate your search to that item.
Good luck.
LM Customer Service gave the following info to get schematics for our car:
I called Helm Inc .1-800-782-4356..their website is www.helminc.com
They carry service publications for many cars (Chevrolet, Jaguars, Pontiacs, Olsdmobile, Cadillac ,Buick and others.......I ordered an ELECTRICAL AND VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL for the 1997 Lincoln Town Car. It cost $30.00 plus 6.95 for shipping and handling. In the manual, the "component schematic" for the car, shows the door switches are located behind the door panels. We will loan this manual to our mechanic to assist him....maybe we can solve this problem with the anti theft alarm and the check engine light, finally!!! We will keep the manual with our car. Hope this info helps someone else.
At half the price. Then you can have your dealer install them. I bought mine their and they come with A lincoln part #.
Seat belt not fastened/annoying dinging noise. My guess is there is a sensor connection under the seat that could be disconnected, but of this I'm unsure. If your seat belt is too short, you can buy extensions.
Regarding the over head console reading 39% - Maybe if the oil filter were to be changed as well, you'd achieve 100%. (Right, I really don't know) However, if you disconnect & reconnect the Negative battery terminal, it may reset it to 100%
But, he disconnected the switch for the trunk that leads to the alarm. He and another fellow tried different things with the remote,etc. They said to close all doors, use the remote starter to lock the doors making sure the anti theft light is not displayed on the dashboard. So the problem hasn't been fixed. Any other
suggestions? Thanks, April :mad:
If so, please email me at butzadams@hotmail.com
Thanks;
Bill
Now they are looking for someone else to blame for their error.
We just put a lot of money into the car changing the switches and the EGR valve...it's hard to believe that there isn't some solution to this problem. If we could find a car we like as much as the 97 TC we would trade it in. The car is in tip-top condition (EXCEPT FOR THIS DARN ALARM PROBLEM) especially after the maintenance that was just performed on it.
We finally figured out that our mechanic didn't have a clue as to how to fix this. I went to a body shop and asked who handled their electronics when a car had to be fixed after an accident. He sent me to a young guy who installs alarms, fixes the electronics for his body shop. First, he tried a simple fix of grounding a wire. That worked for 3 days - then the alarm went off and the car wouldn't start! It was parked. The car had to be towed to the electronics guy.
The next day we picked the car up. He explained as every one said: the computer is wired TO ALL THE ELECTRONICS in the car..the horn, the lights, etc.They are not linked separately. He printed a copy of the electronics schematic showing us the wiring diagram of what was connected/built in to the computer. He said the computer in the car is a "lemon"....What he did? He bypassed wires to the horn, the front and back lights, the power windows, etc. He said the alarm may still go off, but we won't hear it because of the bypassed wires. Several of his customers told me that he can fix anything! The tradeoff for bypassing the wires, the time on the dashboard clock fades out. We can live with that! Better than the horn blaring! He told us he could try to replace something in the computer that costs $875 but if it didn't work -- he could not return it and we would be stuck with it -- he wasn't confident it would work anyway. He is confident that the bypassed wires will work. He guaranteed the horn will not blare, or lights flash and our car would always start, related to the fixed alarm problem.
We had the EGR valve replaced and the engine light is no longer on ....after 4 years!! The electronics guy recommended a new mechanic to us.
So far -- so good! Thanks for all of your suggestions. April
Turning the switch in the trunk off won't hurt anything, but don't let the mother in law ride in the back seat.
1. Where is the FP located.
2. Should the pump run in the key on position from a COLD START - FROM A HOT START?
3. Since after pouring a cap of gas in the TB it starts and runs just fine, I can see your idea for a cold start - no fule pressure, so it has to run the FP to allow the FI to prime it, BUT after it is hot and I stop to get a beer and it also refuses to restart after just five minutes, am I wrong to think the fule pressure is still at (x pounds) and would it still need a 2 second FI to prime start it when it is hot?
4. From the front, looking at the TB there are 2 FIs in the TB. What is job of each one? Could I un plug one to prove it is not working? One on left is different than one on the right?
Billneill@yahoo.com.
(1) FP is within the gas tank in a depression of the tank. Never run out of gas!
(2) Yes. If too much fuel is pumped, there is a return line going back to the tank.
(3) Yes, it would still need 2 seconds to start again.
(4) One distributes fuel to one bank of cylinders and the other to the other bank.
(5) Why one on left is different or why one on right is different makes one wonder if one of the injectors is not the correct one for that TB.
I once tanked up with some bad gas and limped through the tank. When empty, I poured a can of Chevron Techrolene in the tank while the engine was idling rough. Within a minute the idle smoothed out, the injectors were cleaned of olifin and normalcy from then on. Have you replaced the fuel filter recently?
Thank-you its much appreciated.