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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

2456722

Comments

  • mytcmytc Posts: 7
    oops, sorry
  • mytcmytc Posts: 7
    I was trying not to take up all of this space by posting this like this, but here you go guys. Hope this helps.

    Remove the cowl vent screen by removing 2 long plastic screws up toward the windshield and the large rubber weather seal that runs across the front of it (engine side). Then remove screws holding down the cowl vent tray and remove it. The long screws are not easy to remove but will come out. After you remove the cowl vent screen and the cowl vent tray below it. Remove the foam rubber seal from the bottom of the cowl vent tray and replace it with silicone RTV sealant available at most auto aftermarket stores for $2. You should buy 2. The gap on my car was so large I had to use the largest bead possible. Place a bead on the tray and another on the surface under it. Besides the large gap, the reason for the large bead is that it is not easy to place the beads everywhere on both surfaces so that they will join together. Let the sealant cure before testing. Test with the A/C while on Auto if you have it.
    DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR AT LEAST ONE MINUTE. THIS IS A
    SAFETY MEASURE TO INSURE THAT THE SIDE AIR BAG (IN THE SEATBACK) IS NOT DEPLOYED.
    Remove the front seat. Peel the carpet back as far as you can and place supports under it. Use a high volume fan to complete drying process. I had to run mine for 15 hours. If you don't think that much of the carpet and mat under in the front and the back are wet, you are probably wrong. I was. There is a thick foam rubber mat under the carpet that acts like a sponge.

    RECONNECT THE BATTERY ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETELY RE INSTALLED THE FRONT SEAT.

    This is a simple fix but very time consuming due to the drying out process. One dealer quoted me over $200 not including removing water from the carpet.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Those are excellent cars, hemsley1, congratulations. Arguably, the best, and high-water mark of Town Cars, ever made. Change the Differential oil as soon as you can. I would service the Transmission as well, and the car will likely go to 150,000 miles without any major repairs needed at all. The differentials usually turn to mush at about 90,000 if you don't service them, so you're due on this one, assuming no one has yet serviced it. You can catch this one in time.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    Thanks for posting. I'm sure many owners will benefit from your knowledge. :)
  • hemsley1hemsley1 Posts: 21
    i appreciate the advice. i just pulled a carfax on this car, and it was originally purchased as a fleet vehicle by a company...should that worry me?
    I'm assuming a traveling salesman or something like that. I have not driven the car yet, but i obviously will when i go to pick it up, if there is anything i don't like then i won't buy it. The interior is in perfect condition and it looks perfectly maintained, but it makes me nervous someone driving it when they dont own it. what do you guys think?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My good father was a traveling salesman-but I'll just choose not to be offended by your comment. Töwn Cars were not leased for the salesmen, they went to the executives, the Bank Presidents, the title reps, etc. Anything but a reason to avoid the car.
  • hemsley1hemsley1 Posts: 21
    ok guys, one last question. I'm buying the car from a guy named jeff, it was his brothers car who died in december. Jeff said the the car has been sitting in his garage for four months and that he just started getting it out recently. Told me it runs great but that the AC does not blow cold. says the blower works but not cold air. Honestly, it's not a big deal if it just needs some freon, but if it needs a compressor then i think that would be pretty expensive.

    I guess im asking if you guys think it just needs some freon since it's been sitting for so long, or if it may be a bigger problem. anyone have any opinions? or have any experience with the AC in a 1997. Thanks in advance
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Can't answer your question, however an independent a/C repairer can hook up his freon, test for leaks, and check the compressor in one visit. Ford products are known for needing "O" rings due to lack of use. There is a lubricant in the coolant which lubs the internal parts of the system and that is why most people run their A/C systems when they drive. If the Signature is above average in other aspects, it would be worth the cost of having a pro diagnose the situation. I've replaced a compressor on an 82 Signature, but have yet to on either our 94 Signature or 95 TB.The Air is on all the time, but at various temperatures. I've been told that when the compressor is replaced, so is the dryer and if the cost was in the neighborhood of 1500 bucks, it would not surprise me. So, I wish you Good Luck.
  • hemsley1hemsley1 Posts: 21
    just to let you guys know. i picked the car up today. i drove it 200 miles to get home and it is awesome. the alignment is a little off, and the air from the AC feels like it is just barely cooled off, i hope thats a good sign that it just needs a freon charge and not a compressor. Besides that this car is cherry. I appreicate the advice and as long as the AC is relatively cheap to fix, i am very happy.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm sure the compressor is ok. The alignment is likely a bad tire, also.-Try rotating them front to back first, I'll bet your pull goes away.
  • salu74salu74 Posts: 1
    hey, i m having a problem with my 89 lin, town car. ok there is a cooling line(hose) from motor to inside the car (somewhere behind solve compartment) and there is a censor in the middle of that line. 1st can anyone tell me wut it is called , ok now the censor or wut ever it is called is broken. and all the coolant was leaking from there. i cant find that part. so can i like just join both the ends with a coupling and make it direct?
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    I'm guessing its the heater control valve. You can bypass it but the heat will be on all the time. Or you can plug both ends and have no heat at all. In my younger day, I did it all the time for emergency hose leaks, etc.
  • garsarnogarsarno Posts: 72
    Thanks for the detailed solution. My '99 leaked on the driver's side last year - now it is the passenger side leaking.
  • garsarnogarsarno Posts: 72
    My '99 Town Car has high piched squeaky brakes and now at 65 mph, when I brake, the car pulls strongly to the left. Had the front pads pulled, cleaned and a coating of anti squeal applied. Looking for help with this. Thanks...
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Two options:

    A) The left side pads are not releasing. Can we assume that, if the pads were removed and re-installed, that they have adequate life left? Depending on how the front pads were "pulled", the guides may or may not have been serviced and may not be sliding freely. There is also a chance that the left slave cylinder is binding and not fully releasing due to internal corrosion or gunk.

    B) The right side brake is not working. Limitless causes.
  • garsarnogarsarno Posts: 72
    Thanks. Taking your post with me to my service tech. Also was told to try the right side caliper sliding mechanism may have seized. The driver side rotor is darker than the right side. Heat....
  • garsarnogarsarno Posts: 72
    Worked on brakes today. Replaced front pads with ceramics, bled brakes, cleaned up the calipers, did not use as much grease on parts, did find air in system. Drives smooth / stops straight so far. Thanks to all for the help..
  • guessguess Posts: 3
    I need help,Please read message #33, The car won't start at times, extensive testing of fuel system, ignition system & etc. When car starts it runs great , will use car to go to local store,shut off car ,shop,then try to start car ,won't start. Dealers can't find problem,they look at me like i'm crazy. I called Lincoln's customer service and they haven't any service bulletins,recalls or etc. If any of you guys or gals have any information that may help,please let me know. THANK YOU!
  • tc94tc94 Posts: 3
    I am going thru the same thing with my 94 tc. No way
    is it the weather conditions. When i have my problem
    there is not starter engagement and really NOTHING when you try
    starting the car. Today it would not start then i tried again 5 minutes later
    and it started up NO problem after I put it in N and then back to P. I have gone months without any problems
    here are my theories.
    1. An electronic fuel pump issue. It seems it happens
    sometimes soon after fill ups. after one trip to the repair shop(no charge), it was his guess,but no
    problem at the time thus he found nothing.
    2. The electronic brain. This happen to a friend of mine and it was hard to catch by a
    ford dealer.
    3. Sometimes it helps to start if you jump the car. It is not a loose batttery/cables etc.
    Any other theories? Fuel filter is new.
  • Update to my earlier posts-Reviewed 1040, 1045, 1049, & 1052. Took the T/C to a dealer-diagnostics came up #24 on the climate control. Replaced the blend door motor and the blend door. Same problem- turn on A/C after a few seconds blows max hot air. Blend door just keeps going to max. checked diagnostics #24 again replaced the motor and climate control. Same problem- they called FORD- must be a ground. Tried 2 days of trouble shooting. No luck- tried the disconnecting everything. Next they said replace the entire wiring harness. I said stop there. Currently have the blend door unplugged and have A/C for the summer-Have to reconnect for heat in the winter. Ford tech support told dealer if you figure out the problem call them back and tell them what the problem was. Don't have anymore $$ for the wiring harness repair and don't know if that would fix it. Tired of shooting in the dark. Any suggestions?????????????? [email protected]
  • tc94tc94 Posts: 3
    1.EEC relay(on drivers side under hood in plastic box. Switch with ac/relay or horn relay to see if it helps.
    2.Corroded battery terminals and wires.
    3. Possible anti-thief replay that affects starter sole. switch
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    tc94 says that "guess"'s no start condition is not due to the weather - "no way" is what I think he said. He also says he is going through the "same thing" as "guess" is with his own car.

    The only thing similar between "guess"'s problem and tc94's problem is that they miss appointments because their car won't go. Otherwise, tc94 is NOT going through the same thing as guess.

    I still believe there is a strong chance that guess has a weather, moisture or other ignition conductivity problem.

    tc94 is likely correct the HIS problem is not weather related.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    www.FlatRateTech.com - they are really good at diagnosing these types of problems for you guys.

    http://www.flatratetech.com/
  • hemsley1hemsley1 Posts: 21
    this may seem like a simple problem, but how the hell do you change the wiper blades on a 97 TC. there is not enough clearance to lift the wiper blades, they hit the hood. I'm sure it is something easy but i cant figure it out. thanx in advance
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's a [non-permissible content removed], all right, and I wish I could tell you how, but I'd have to work on it for an hour myself each time I try to do it. For the love of Mike, I wish the engineers would simplify this process for owner service.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    They are easier to work on when out of their bull pen.

    Wet the windshield

    Turn on ignition key

    Turn on wiper switch and when the blades are just out of their resting place, stop them by turning off the ignition switch.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    that helps - then it only takes about half an hour to figure it out.
  • mytcmytc Posts: 7
    The headlights on my 99 TC are very dull and have condensation on the inside. I have tried drying them out, but with time the moisture comes back. This is getting to be an issue as the lights are no longer as bright at night, and they no longer have the same brilliant look. Any ideas?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Drill some small holes in the bottom of the plastic asserbly to ventilate & drain them. It should help. Your only other alternative is to replace them.
  • tc94tc94 Posts: 3
    For the last two days it was no start first thing in the morning. I kept on hittting the unlock button on my remote and Slowly hit the ignition again a couple of times. This did the trick. Where
    can I locate the anti-thief relay switch?
  • b737mikeb737mike Posts: 1
    The remote radio volume, station select, am/fm, temp control and fan speed rocker switches that are located on the right side of the steering wheel are not working on my 1996 TownCar. The cruise control cluster on the left side is working fine. I believe they were working last week. Just had the car detailed and now they don't work. Is there a possibility a fluid got behind the switch cluster and needs to be either cleaned or dried out. Is this a part which can be easily changed out. Any way to test the cluster or do I just need to by a new one and go from there.
  • eventmaneventman Posts: 1
    Greetings:

    I find the same problem with a 98 Town Car. Has Ford Acknowledged this issue? Much thanks for your attention as I await your reply.

    Maurice Newsome
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    My neighbor's Excursion did the same thing after an open-window rain storm. He waited for it to dry out and it worked just fine, BUT, it took almost two months.
  • guessguess Posts: 3
    I would like to thank every body who tried to help me with this problem,I thankyou.The problem turned out to be at ignition switch cylinder, there is a small switch called a " starter interrupt switch" which triggers the interrupt relay (part of the anti-theft system) thus causing the engine not to start. Replacement is simple, Remove the lower cover behind steering wheel,press release pin(1/8th pin) and remove ignition switch cylinder, you'll have access to interrupt switch. I hope that this information helps any body who may have the same problem. Again, THANK YOU ALL!!!!
  • i have a similar problem, the difference that the a/c on my '01 LTC blows cold air about 70% of the time. I will be driving down the road and all of the sudden i can barely feel the air coming out of the vents. The fan is still blowing but barely any air coming out of vents, odd. Generally, I have to stop, turn off the vehicle, cross my fingers, and re-start the vehicle and hope the problem goes away. I have taken the vehicle to several mechanics and then the dealer for diagnostics, none can find anything wrong. 70% would not bother me, but this Arizona summer is difficult to deal with without the other 30%. Any suggestions.
  • adagioadagio Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car which is maintained to the nines. The problem is the automatic climate control air conditioning system. Problem only occurs when ambient temperature is high (above 90). When the dash says 65, hot air blows out of the heater vents. Change dash to 60, cold air blows out of center vents. Change back to 65, hot air blows out heater, center, or defroster vents. Volume of air seems lower than normal. Entire blend door assembly, computer control head, and ambient temperature sensor have been replaced by the dealer. All pinpoint tests so far are normal. Now we are waiting for a Ford engineer to look at it. Everyone is trying, but living in Florida I'm getting worried. Any ideas?????
  • tonyk1tonyk1 Posts: 1
    I had a Prestige Remote Engine Starter installed on my 2003 Lincoln Town Car. Whenever I use the remote control to lock the car, the burglar alarm goes off in 5 to 20 minutes. I have already taken it back to the original installer, as well as to a local Chicago-area tech several times, and it keeps happening. Anyone else have this experience, or more importantly, know how to fix it? Thank you!
  • hemsley1hemsley1 Posts: 21
    i own a 97 towncar signature, and it has the landou roof or carriage top, or whatever you call it. anyways. above the windshield there is a strip of the carriage top that always works itself out, and when i'm on the highway air gets up under the carriage top and makes some noise, if i stop the car and push that weather strip above the windshield back in, then the noise stops. i guess i want some easy way to make sure that strip stays in and stops working itself out, if any of you have a carriage top and know what i'm talking about any input would be appreciated. thanks in advance!
  • jjuddjjudd Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 TC. There seems to be a problem with the ACC. It is stuck on 85 degrees all of the time. I changed the whole ACC system with a part from the local pull and save but still have the same problem. I had the system charged today for the AC but the problem still lies. Any ideas? ">
  • demandeman Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Towncar, and the Message Center above & right of the steering wheel is showing the outside temperature to be -15 when it's about 75 degrees out.

    Any ideas??
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and re-attaching it. That will reset some of the computer junk.
  • tcb74tcb74 Posts: 7
    How do I connect the recharge kit.
    The A/C has been blowing cool air for years. but it its not as cold as it use to bee .
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If the "reboot" beernut suggested doesn't work, your sensor behind the grille may be broken, or the wire connecting it to the cpu may be broken or unplugged.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Interesting question which I will answer with another question.... If you have to ask how to connect the recharge kit, are you qualified to be working on A/C? Your '84, if its original, is loaded with stuff that's really bad for the environment, according to Al Gore and shouldn't be messed with by "unqualified" people. Besides, Freon is highly expensive and if it leaked out once, it will do it again.

    I would expect a 21 year old car to be leaking refrig. from everywhere there is rubber. I wouldn't fool around with it. I took my '88 to a couple of A/C places and to one dealer to see about fixing all the leaks. All of them recommended that I replace the ENTIRE SYSTEM - for less money than replacing the rubber and refilling with rare and expensive R22 . The dealer ended up being the least expensive and with the best warranty. It was around a grand and it came charged with the new, safe juice - whatever its called - I can't remember, and has been blowing cold ever since.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    safe-juice = R-134, Algore approved, refrigerant, doubt he'd know it if he drank it straight from the blender, beernut.
  • tcb74tcb74 Posts: 7
    The compressor was replaced late 90s and system converted to R-134.
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Posts: 7
    unable to get transmission out of park . car is running and foot is on brake
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Posts: 7
    brake lights are not working, bulbs and fuses are fine,help
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    There used to be a switch on top of the brake linkage by the steering column, under the dash, that actuated the brake lights.
    Sounds like that is broken. It also may control the solenoid that locks and unlocks your shift linkage now in the newer ones. Sounds like the two problems are related.
  • shernjoshshernjosh Posts: 1
    If you don't mind my asking, what was the price you paid to have this leak fixed? I'm having the same problem...thanks much!
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