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Clue #2......Miss at high RPM (which is at maximum fuel consumption)
I'd be betting on the fuel delivery system
Now, I did the front break pads with no problem. When I attempt to change the rear, the pads fit into the pad holder, but I can not lower the calliper over them. It's as if they are too thick. Went to Kragen, and Autozone, and I ended up with the same result from both. I assume that they would be pretty much standard, seeing that a lexus ES300, is basiclly a Toyota Camary. Any thoughts?
Again, thanks for all your help.
Troubleshooting P1494
OEM Brand: Chrysler
Definition :
Evap Leak Detection pump pressure switch condition
Explination:
ECM detected the leak detection pump switch did not change after the solenoid was energized
Probably Causes:
1. Leak detection pump defective
2. open or shorted circuit condion
3. solenoid defective
This is driving me crazy because my car still drives fine and its holiday time and im broke! I really dont want my car to turn into a heap. My husband unplugged the battery cables and reset the light but then it came back on. So we know there is a problem. We took it to the shop and they wont accept the autozone readout and want us to shell out a ton for a diagnostic. Any ideas on what the heck could be causing this? Like I said the car is driving fine, it has always cut out once and a while when I try to accelerate.. but other than that no change. Thanks so much!!
Vanessa
http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/data/articlestandard//motorage/1- 02005/149558/article.pdf
http://www.forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=6219
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2000-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee.htm
There is a system which recovers gasoline vapors and returns them to the tank. Possibly the pump that reclaims these vapors isn't running with the vehicle on, or one of the vacuum lines has come off, or the pressure switch is faulty.
My hope for you is there is obviously a vacuum hose which has fallen off somewhere. I don't know if you have the time or inclination to trace this down. Maybe someone else can be more helpful.
Good luck.
We've done this a couple times before without a problem. He did a brake job last summer and the lug nuts were way overtorqued which probably adds to the problem. Will anything work other than brute force? I don't want to damage the wheel so I was afraid to pry on it. I did try lifting the tire from underneath but that didn't work either.
FOR REPLACING ALL THREE. COST OF BATTERY IS APPRX. $128.00. PLUGS $12-$30, WIRES $85.00.
FOR MY DAUGHTER SHE IS A POOR SINGLE MAMMA!
So the questions to ask are:
Are the plugs the correct ones for the car (size, heat range, etc.)?
If so, what is wrong with them? Are they badly fouled? Show me.
How were the spark plug wires tested? With an ohm meter? Were they observed to be leaking or cracked? Show me.
Was the battery "load tested"?
Personally I'd just put in new plugs, go buy a battery yourself at Kragen after they test your old one for you for free, and as for the plug wires, start your engine at night, open the hood, and look for spark leakage.
OR, if the mechanic answers all the above questions satisfactorily, have him do the work but bargain on his prices. They seem high to me.
Careful that you keep any loose clothing and/or hair away from the turning belts and pulleys that you won't be able to see (because it is dark out). If your vehicle has a hood light that comes on when you open it, you'll need to turn unplug it. Try to find a setting where none of your lights are on either, like Daytime Running Lights. My old suburban of that era would turn the DRL off if you put the parking brake on.
Thought I would mention that a lot of NAPA, Schucks and Autozone stores will install the battery when you purchase it. Ask at a parts store to load test your battery (I don't know of any the do not do this for free) and see what the condition of your battery is.
Otherwise, you have a defective oil pressure relief valve, which seems to be stuck shut. On most engines you can access it externally but I don't know where it is on your car, sorry.
The other option is that you might be able to go from underneath the vehicle with a coat hanger and gently snake it up to the cable and pull the cable with the coat hanger.
The new part is either a dealer item or the wrecking yard.
http://www.camrymanuals.com/
:P
v6 3.5 liter I think.
automatic
35000 miles
can somebody tell me how to go about changing the belts on the engine.
I am referring to the belts that spin the waterpump, ac, etc... thank you.
I really want to do the replacement myself.
You want to be careful to make the right decision on whether to throw a bunch of money in to it to fix it up.....versus unloading as is. If the car has been in great condition up until this time, and you intend to keep it a long time, it may make sense to do a major engine job (if that is what is determined you need).
On the other hand, it is almost a ten year old car.
Get a good quality diagnosis, and then make your repair decision taking into account all of the factors.
At 45 deg F it takes about 13 miles flat land driving to achieve normal engine temperature. Is this normal?
Most common cause of this, is a blown head gasket. It allows oil and burnt combustion from the cylinder to be forced into the cooling. It also means that coolant water can leak back into the internals of the engine, and the water will ruin the metal surfaces.
Secondly and less common, is that you could have a bad radiator. The radiator main purpose is to cool the water coolant, but it also has a small chamber on the side where transmission fluid is cooled. These are separate. You might have a leak between these chambers, which would ruin your transmission.
Either way, oil in your radiator is an indicator of a problem with major consequences. Get it fixed fast.
You'll need to have the radiator rebuilt, or if you can't afford it, get one from a wrecker that looks really clean inside and out.
I don't know if that's true now and I don't want to worry someone needlessly. BUT it's a question I would ask about.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also, turn the key to "OFF" and leave it there and call a tow truck.
:P
Shifty,
Does the trans flush do enough or does it need to be opened and parts replaced? Or would that be on a case-by-case basis?
I'd sure tow the thing to the dealer for repair; I wouldn't drive it another inch.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'd never tear it apart without first trying a flush and test drive. Even two flushes.
I've never personally seen a transmission that got wiped out because of this, but I'm sure it's possible. I have seen engine bearings damaged by prolonged exposure to coolant, though.
In the link you posted, it sounds like the problem did not get detected by the owner until some time had passed.
Now, once the vehicle is shut off, the cooling system pressure will push some coolant into the transmission.
Did you find a lot of coolant in the transmission?
Coolant damages a lot of steel/metal parts, so at the minimum, you will want to flush the transmission and drop the pan and check for any signs of damage.
Generally, the transmissions fair pretty well, in my experience.
Unless you drove a hundred miles with it like that.
You can leave the radiator dry as long as you don't drive of course. It's got a crack in it somewhere, so it's toast anyway.
If you drop the transmission pan and it's really gunked up in there, you might have to have it professionally flushed out then.