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I had my fuel pump replaced about a month ago - but my spark plugs looked fine - I even checked them myself.
I have read that Mazda is replacing the plugs with a different type - could you post what the brand and number is of the plugs that they use - I think it should be on your invoice.
mdaffron - you have posted some (really many many many) things I don't agree with - but I think EVEN YOU will have a hard time agreeing with your last post. Put the shoe on the other foot and see how it feels.
If you started having a problem with your Mazda3 and read on this board that other were having the same or similar problems - not EVERYONE - but a few - and the Mazda dealership told you it was normal and consumer reports said that this feature was excellent - and Mazda had not Issued a TSB - would you really just accept it and consider it to not be a problem.
COME ON!!!
The comment on Acura Tranny failure is 100% correct.
Outside temp in shade 95 degrees
Temp back seat - before I left -parked in garage - 98 degrees
Drove 9.6 miles in 19 minutes
Temp of passenger side rear seat - in shade 81 degrees
Vent temp range 49-54 degrees
Front seat pass side 79 degrees
Dash on top of middle vents 122.5 degrees! Full sun.
I had the AC on max recirc plus fan speed on 4
Went home the same way - but with fan speed on 3 (still max with recirc on)
Temp of drivers side rear seat - in shade 82 degrees
Vent temp range 48-52 degrees
Front seat pass side 78 degrees
Dash dropped to 120 degrees - but not in full sun
Not sure if this tells me anything that I didn't already know - except I expected the back to be more than 2-4 degrees warmer than the front - although I never ride back there it just seems like it does not get much air flow.
I think the very dark tint on the rear windows must have really helped the back - I wish I would have done this before doing the tint - would have been nice to know the impact. I would guess it is somewhere between 4 and 6 degrees. I no longer sweat while driving - even if it is 95 degrees outside - before I would need a shower after a long drive.
Now when I say the AC is weak - that means it can't go below 78 degrees in the front seat and 81in the rear.
Some 2004/2005 vehicles may exhibit a click noise from the driveshaft when changing gear direction and or taking off. The symptom is a one time event. This concern is created by a small contact surface between the wheel hub and the driveshaft which causes high contact pressure and stick-slap to occur...There is a fix and the repair procedure should take a couple hours. Bulletin #03-003/05
My Mazda3 2.3L came with NGK ITR6F 13 plugs stock - This is what my owners manual says - plus I took the plugs out to check them.
Now I am wondering if Mazda changed the stock plug - (your dealer said they replaced them with the stock plug)
After my fuel pump was replaced the service department said my plugs looked fine and did not need to be replaced - like I said I also pulled them to see for myself - and they did look fine.
The thing I am trying to do is improve my MPG - since the fuel pump replacement I have been getting around 18 MPG - I had hoped that replacing the defective pump would actually improve the MPG - but it went down a little instead.
I am thinking about replacing the plugs anyway - they are very easy to get to and - can't cost much more that 1 tank of gas.
BTW - back in 1980's I lived in western MN - my wife grew up in Pipestone MN.
I have had my 2005 MZ3i for about a few months. I like the car but after puttimg 4k miles on it, I started to notice an issue with the AT. In the first 5 minutes driving, everytime it shifts gear from 1-2, it gives a kick in the engine. It doesn't seem to do that with other gears (from 2 to 3 and to 4). It does like that at least 3 times before shifting smooth again. The car's AT didn't work like that in the first 4k miles, lately it does. I kinda have a bad feeling about this. The thing is I can take the car in, but it might not do it when it gets to the dealer/service center. So the problem is not consistent, so Techs can't tell what it is. Does anyone have similar problem with your MZ3i? or know anything wrong about this problem?
Thanks, any responses are greatly appreciated.
Benjz
I do drive pretty hard - my AC is always on - plus the traffic where I live is horrible.
Besides the cost of gas - the thing that really sucks is only going 210-225 miles before the low fuel light comes on.
I would like to know if the new plug helps your MPG - which is already GREAT BTW - Let me know if the new plug helps / hurts / no change your MPG.
benjz - Mazda has no fix for the harsh 1-2 shift of the Mazda3 auto tranny. Until they come out with a TSB (which could be never) they are considering this normal.
It seems like this issue is starting to come up more & more - Mazda6 2.3L auto has the same issue - and Mazda has a TSB on it - hopefully Mazda will address the defect. I would hate to have a tranny go out after warranty period.
I forgot to check under the hood this morning after driving to work. Any idea???
I have an '05 SP23 as well and the AC is not the greatest but, I've noticed that if you keep the car in a garage or in the shade, the AC is pretty good. I guess the hood doesn't have much insulation to keep the AC's parts from getting too hot while in the sun. Good luck with your new whip. I'm loving it so far... :shades:
In the current issue of Motor Trend there is an article on the new Miata...err... MX-5 as they want it refered to, and one of the things they note as changed in "new versus old" is "HVAC unit seven percent smaller".. Now I realize that the car in question is not the 3, and that A/C use in open 2 seat roadsters is probably much less than in a sedan/hatchback, AND the interior space is much smaller. But perhaps it comments on Mazdas thinking in regards to A/C? They didn't say smaller cooling capacity, so I could be all wet. (won't be the first time) LOL May be totaly unlelated..just food for thought and comment.
http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/product/pro_semiunit_en.html
There's a timeline listing the Mazda models this company provides a/c units for here:
http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/
Meade
A light can burn out, and you won't know whether it's burned out or not.
An "idiot light in disguise" will have three distinct (and highly visible, even peripherally) positions -- off, normal, and high. And you'll be able to tell when the gauge is operating, when it's not, and when things aren't right.
Meade
P.S. I don't really think the 3's gauge falls into this category. Mine goes up nice and smoothly in the mornings to its midway point. And if I shut the car off and then back on after visiting my neighbor down the block, the gauge goes back up only about 1/4 of the way (it didn't have time to heat up all the way) and then resumes its slow climb to midway. Don't think a 3-position "idiot light" gauge would be able to do that.
Is the outside air coming through the hot engine bay before being sucked into the car? Is the outside air being heated by the fan? Is the outside air being mixed with heated air from the heater core? Do I put up with being uncomfortable at 80F while the outside temp is 68F or use the A/C when I shouldn't have to. And do not mention I should roll my windows down. I don't like driving with the windows down because of the noise, besides I like to listen to the audio system and not tire noise from other vehicles thats why I bought a car with A/C. Besides it is not a fix or explanation. I have 2 other vehicles and did the same test with them and only found a 2 degree difference but a 12F difference for my M3. Something is not right. Maybe others could check their car. I will do the same check again to confirm my previous results when the temp in my area cools down. On a side note, maybe the weak A/C has to do with warm or hot air from some other source mixing with the cold A/C air? Shouldn't have to drive with windows down for 5 or 10 minutes to cool the interior etc. and all the other DO's to cool the interior but I think the real issue is the temp out of the VENTS, not how to and what to do to keep and cool the interior from window tints to front windshield visors which are all great and helpful suggestions. A friend of mine has a black Altima with a 4 banger and all he does is crack the windows slightly for a few minutes puts them back up and the A/C takes over. Have other car message boards here been complaining about a weak A/C ,if not, why us? I THINK we MIGHT have a problem. I posted this same issue on another board and got an answer back suggesting "roll the windows down =D" what does "=D" mean? Make a observation to be helpful and at times get insulted. I wish Mazda would send out a survey to all its Mazda 3 owners who have owned their cars for more than 6 months. I got one 2 weeks after my purchase, what can you say how your driving experience and dependablity have been in a short period of time. Somebody said I should have researched the car better before buying, I bought the middle of March where the temps at that time would be about 10C or 50F or less so how could one check the A/C. Besides a lot of people do not have a computer to hook up to the internet to get more info on a car. Another answer,"it is an entery level car so don't expect too much" Paid $1000.00 CDN of A/C and I wand a grands worth of cold air.
Sorry for the rambling or should I say thanks for the opportunity to vent...I feel better now... by the way my M3 is an 05 GT GFX sedan and the A/C is not as strong as I think it should be compared to other cars I have owned.
Guess its better to look good than feel good
BTW, at least cracking a back window will reduce the airflow resistance inside the closed car and allow more air to flow fhrough the car, which may result in a more comfortable experience.
This is not meant as a flame -- but you made it a point to say how you invested so much in A/C. If the air coming out of your vents without the a/c is is too warm for you, and you refuse to roll down any windows, why don't you just turn on the A/C then?
Meade
I have driven many 4 cylinder cars from GM to Volkswagen over the last 6 years with 134A refrigerant. The Mazda 3 has the WORST A/C of any car I have driven. In fact, on most days, it is entirely unacceptable. If one wants it to cool, one has to use the 2 setting as a minimum. In all other vehicles, the 1 would suffice. This A/C is not acceptable for warm climates or driving in summer months.
It will be interesting to see how Mazda Japan had addressed this issue for their customers in Asia. I doubt they have the same A/C unit as we do in North America. I would like to see some posts from Asia here.
Sorry! Same unit in Japan and the U.S. (see the timeline):
http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/
Meade
The AC unit isn't made by Mazda, it is made by the company that Meade has indicated. Would there be a 2005 model AC - different from the 2004 AC - on a basically unchanged vehicle?
Maybe the outside air switch is not working, not letting outside air into the car or it is picking up some hotter air from some other source and coming in?
Maybe with the A/C on and even with the recir switch on the cool air might be mixing with some other source of hot air? Just trying to think outside the box. By the way just checked my GMC pick up. Outside air 85F temp through the vents 89F no temp variation whether idling or at a speed of 60. And of course I would turn on the A/C as you suggested. BTW I do crack my windows open a little to help with air circulation to allow more air movement. I have done that since I bought my first car with A/C in 1978 and have done it ever since with every car I have owned.But it doesn't help with the air through the vents to be cooler.
One day when I got home (engine completely warmed up) I took the plastic cover off (the one located on the passenger side) its easy - one little plastic pop rivet type thing is all that holds it on. Once this cover is off you can see the side of the heater core - and the air box that holds the evaperator. The side of the heater core was so hot that I could not touch it. The heater core is only inches from the AC evaperator.
I considered taking the heater hoses off at the fire wall and connecting them together - so that the hot coolant would not go into the heater core - If that worked I was going to find (or have built) an "H" valve to install on the heater hoses - so I could - by opening and closing a valve - either have coolant flow through the heater core (on cold days) - or by pass it( during the summer). The service manager at Mazda told me that back in the 1980's some Chevys had a problem with AC performance because of the heater core and evaperator being so close - this was used to solve the problem. The only concern he had about it was - it could cause an engine over heating problem - because the heater core does remove some heat from the engine - and if it was by passed he did not know if the radiator would be able to handle the additional heat load.
After seeing the way the system is laid out - I am not surprised at all about the amount of temp gain. Not sure how other small cars are designed - but I think Mazda tried to design a very small system - so they could save space and I would guess also to save money (nothing wrong with these reasons) but it seems like what looked good on paper was a complete failure in practice.
Now Mazda (my opinion) is somewhat stuck with the compact design - because to put a larger system in (and make no mistake that is the only way Mazda will ever solve this defect) they would need to completely change the air handling system and there is just not enough room to do that without completely changing the interior.
So I think Mazda just decided to leave it as is - live with the complaints - and tell customers it is - working as designed.
I arrived home and cut off the car. (I needed my keys to unlock the front door!) I went inside and retrieved my thermometer, went back outside, restarted the car (which was sitting in the shade), and let it idle with the A/C on. I did not move the car or rev the engine. With the fan speed at 3, the temp all the way on cold, the lever on "face" vents and the recirc switch on, I placed my thermometer's probe in the right center vent. In less than a minute it was down to 42 degrees. I then heard the A/C compressor cycle off, and the temp went up to 44 and then to 46 -- over the course of about a minute. Then it cycled back on again and the vent temp returned to 42. I let this go on for about five minutes or so, noting no change. Then I took the probe out of the vent and hung it over the back of the passenger seat so that the sensor was dangling in the air right about where a back seat passenger's knees would be. The temperature went up to 66 degrees and stayed there for five minutes. The car was at idle the whole time.
I then moved the car out onto the street in full sun and parked it for about 10 minutes. (I had to take out the trash.) When I returned the sensor, still hanging in the back seat, was registering 97 degrees. (Not bad for 10 minutes in full sun with the windows up -- nice insulation, Mazda!) Leaving it there, I started the car and turned on the A/C in the same settings as before. Within three minutes the temperature in the back seat was 66, and it fluctuated between 66 and 68 for the five minutes or so that I had the car idling. I then returned the probe to the right center vent, and the temperature again was fluctuating -- depending on whether the compressor was on or off -- between 42 and 46 F.
We all know air conditioners work better when the engine rpms are above idle, so I can only assume this was a worst-case scenario. I really do think that a back-seat temperature of between 66 and 68 degrees, while the car is in full sun on a 98-degree day, is pretty darned good! BTW, my car is a Velocity Red 2005 Mazda3 hatch.
Meade
Sure is hard to believe that 2 cars could be so different. Do you have a CR approved thermometer?
I guess the thing people looking at the Mazda3 need to understand is - check the AC out very carefully - you may get one that works good - you may also get one that is OK on most days - or you could get one that is very weak. Doesn't say much for Mazda quality control if there really is this much difference.
But the real important thing to understand is - IF YOU DO GET STUCK WITH A DEFECTIVE AC SYSTEM Mazda will not fix it.
Geez Bill, so now you're questioning my thermometer?
Truth be told, it's a professional cooking thermometer with a temperature probe. It reads from 32 to over 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and cost quite a bit more than the Radio Shack or Oregon Scientific digital thermometers most people use for this.
Meade
Then, you can take that however you want..
No charge for this one..
regards,
kyfdx
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If the AC in everyones Mazda3 would take the temp down from 95 to 65 (in the back seat even) in a few minutes then how many complaints would you see on this board? ZERO - thats right ZERO.
Fact is many Mazda3's have weak AC systems - that is why you still - after 1 1/2 years - still see complaints.
What are the odds that in June of 2006 - that some 2006 Mazda3 owners will post - anyone having problems with a weak AC?
As you said installing an "H" valve would work. If you are concerned about over heating than you can open the valves slightly to let some water pass into the heater core. There is no fan or air blowing on the heater core, I don't think, to keep the core cool and in turn help to keep the engine cool. The only function the heater core has is to supply heat to the interior I believe. The temp gauge in these cars is just an idiot light in disguise.
Since the summer is almost over I may wait until next year - then give it a try. The way I look at it - it couldn't hurt - but may not help much - the way the compressor is controlled it may just cycle quicker - if that is even possible!
BTW - most owners manuals have the coolant capacity listed for - with & without AC if there is a difference. I bet Mazda uses the same for both. I am not home or I would look.
Plus how that (6-8 degree) difference ends up being a 15-16 degree difference in back seat temp is hard to accept.
Maybe meade was using celsius!
I guess Bill, you were using fahrinhot (rhymes with carishot).
Good news though. The wife absolutely hates the high headrests on the front seats and is seriously considering giving me the 3 and getting the 2006 Jetta L for herself. Hope she means it!
Zoom Zoom!
the Sandman
On second thought, scrap that. Meteorologists use this method and we all know the disparity in those results.
I'd much rather hold my finger out the window and feel the Zoom Index.
(Oh, and don't take that the wrong way -- I was speaking of my upturned thumb!)
Meade
I'll say this -- with all these comments about heater cores so hot they can't be touched, I don't want to hear ANY of you complaining about being cold this winter!
Meade
P.S. I've GOT IT! The solution! Knock out the rear window, install a window air conditiioner, and put a 2 kW Honda generator in the trunk to run it!
The heater complaints were mostly from Canada - but I think a few also came from MN - a state I lived in for 4 cold years. I think the problem was long warm up times, limited heat after the car was warmed up and very foggy windows - even some ice forming on the inside of the windshield.
My heater works fine - but it almost never gets below 40 degrees in Houston - I have turned my AC on (in the Mazda3) with the temps in the low 60's - something I would not normally do in my other vehicles - I would normally just turn on the vent.
Meade
P.S. Why did you find the need to turn on the a/c in your Mazda3 with outside temps so low?
I know that in “partial zero emission vehicles (PZEV),” the exhaust that is naturally released by the engine after it’s turned off is recycled and made available for the next time the engine is started. Could this be the case here? I think the 2.3 is classified as only as SULEV, which is 1 step below PZEV.
My I recommend a capful of Mylanta in your radiator after particularly exciting zoom sessions?
:shades:
Meade