Bill...I read this forum with interest, as I helped my son by a 3 hatch a few months ago, and we live in Tucson...gets very, ahhh HOT. JUst read this in the 5 forum , and wonder if you are willing to give this a try?
I saw this product being sold at Walmart - looked up the same info your link just directed me to. I almost gave it a try - but at that point my dealer had told me that Mazda had a fix coming (it was the difusser plate - that did nothing) and I did not want to kill the warranty. If (when) my AC needs refrigerant I may give it a try.
The air conditioner’s ability to cool the cabin was deemed questionable during a springtime heat wave that sent temperatures soaring above 100 degrees in downtown Los Angeles. High temperatures, a black interior, and leather seats require deep-freeze A/C capability, and the Mazda 3 did not deliver – Phoenix residents considering the 2004 Mazda 3, be warned.
This was published 5/2004 - by then I already knew my AC was defective.
Thats the temp in the garage. I know what you mean about the air temp in the garage. I also feel it gets warmer after the car is parked. Going to do a recheck later this week and going to leave the car outside to do the recheck.
With regards to Mazda not fixing AC problems- Mazda has gone out of their way to correct any and all problems that have occurred on all of their cars.
Anyone who states that Mazda will not fix a problem " because it costs too much" is clearly delusional, they address and correct all problems.
I would suggest you go to a Mazda dealer- Get in a Mazda 3 hatchback - drive it in traffic and on the highway and see what you think of the AC, that should end all the speculation, and allow you to determine whether it will be adequate for you.
We drove 250 miles today, on city and interstates, in 90 degree weather, and our AC was superb.
It's not delusional at all. Many businesses, including the auto manufacturers, make decisions based on the cost of fixing a problem with their products. It's naive to think that they don't.
I agree, though I’m not sure how Mazda determines this.
I have an immediate relative that works as a mechanical Engineer for a parts supplier to a major Auto Manufacturer (American). He spoke of an existing problem this engine had as a result of a part they supply. This part was designed many years ago so it did not properly “mesh” with the changes in the surrounding parts.
This problem caused, in some cases, a break down of the part that resulted in the loss of fluids but nothing major in most cases the owners would continue driving assuming everything was fine. In a few cases it caused the total loss of fluids and therefore risked engine damage.
There were a number of engineers that worked on their own time to design a superior part and they pushed the manufacturer to implement it (pride thing). The additional cost was 80 cents (or just under). Since this part would have been installed on over 1 millions engines per year it was rejected.
It was determined (bean counters) that the warranty costs did not outweigh the costs of the new part.
With that said my 3’s AC works fine in all weather.
I can't stand the position of the accelerator pedal. It's too much lower than the brake. My right knee hurts after driving this car too long. Has anyone sucessfully raised the position fo the pedal? How did you do it? Did you buy an aftermarket pedal set and just use the accelerator pedal? If so which set? HELP!
In todays highly competitive market, no manufacturer can afford to allow a problem to exist due to "cost".
The cost in sales and ratings is simply to great to allow a problem which is correctable to continue.
Mazda has consistantly demonstrated their ability and intent to correct all problems with all their models.
The 2004 Mazda 3 has remained a check rated auto in Consumer Reports on line ratings due to its high reliability and lack of problems, including but not limited to the AC.
Had there been any significant mechanical problems with the Mazda 3 it would no longer be check rated or reccomended.
There may be a small number of individuals experiencing AC problems, but make no mistake the Mazda 3 has been and remains a highly reliable car with an excellent AC system.
If the A/C is an excellent system than why is a diffuser plate installed in the 04 and 05 and the jury is out on the 06 If Mazda is concerned about a on going problem they should tell the dealers to treat the A/C seriously if any owners feel they have a problem. I took my car in to have the A/C checked as I felt it was weak. All they did was check the temp at the vents and found it to be within spec. just barely. That test is not enough. The system should be checked for leaks, evacuted, and recharged. There are other tests and procedures that should also be done but too long to post.My compressor cycles every 10 seconds which is not long enough to cool the cabin. I mentioned it to the dealer and they said it should because it is hot outside...duh. It appears my dealer is not interested in solving my problem. I know some will say that not all dealers are the same, which is probably true. Will give the dealer one more chance, I think thats fair. But will contact the Service Manager first. Check the long TSB list for the 04 which could be a negative but could also be a positive for Mazda because they addressed the production issues and problems owners have. If my car was out of warranty I am sure they would take the time to test it properly with a cost to me.
"In todays highly competitive market, no manufacturer can afford to allow a problem to exist due to "cost"." That's a blanket statement that's not really true or false. A manufacturer can and will allow a problem to exist if the cost of fixing it is greater than the cost of just doing nothing. I'm not saying they always will, but they can and they do.
"The cost in sales and ratings is simply to great to allow a problem which is correctable to continue." Again, the cost in lost sales and risk of bad ratings must be weighed against the cost of the correction.
"Mazda has consistantly demonstrated their ability and intent to correct all problems with all their models." That's another generalization that's not true for Mazda, or for that matter any auto manufacturer.
"The 2004 Mazda 3 has remained a check rated auto in Consumer Reports on line ratings due to its high reliability and lack of problems, including but not limited to the AC." Don't get me wrong, I like the Mazda3. However, CR ratings are not always on the mark, and they have been known to change their rating for a particular car. A lot has been written about the pros and cons of CR's methods and the value of their published results.
"Had there been any significant mechanical problems with the Mazda 3 it would no longer be check rated or reccomended." I depends how you define "significant", and you're assuming that they would automatically know about the problem.
"There may be a small number of individuals experiencing AC problems, but make no mistake the Mazda 3 has been and remains a highly reliable car with an excellent AC system." I agree it's a highly reliable car, but I think they probably sized the AC system a little on the small side, and due to manufacturing variances a small number of people get cars with AC systems that can't perform well in certain conditions. I strongly suspect that they know this, but since the car is selling so well (and most owners think the AC is OK) they decided they can afford a little negative talk.
Ah, the Fall is on its way so that should put to rest the A/C posts for a while; we can then all look forward to the snow tire debates. :P Me and my Mazda had a great summer, I hope you and yours did too!
Right - The AC temp is within spec. But you want The system checked for leaks, evacuated, and re charged. Then I suggest you pay the dealer or an independent to do the tests. Exactly what do you think specs are for?
If a car is made by humans, it's going to have screw-ups. Be it a Kia or a Rolls Royce or a Lexus or a Ferrari or a Ford, somewhere, someplace, as we speak, someone is having a problem that is driving them nuts, and is equally disappointed with the individual dealer assigned to remedy it.
Customer dissatisfaction is a combination of a possibly substandard component or assembly procedure, compounded by a less that competent dealer or staff, compounded by an owner who is fed up with bringing it back five times. It's a great drama and we all seem to play a part. How much is the car's fault, the dealer's fault or the owner's fault is something that we'll rarely get an answer to.
I've seen a "bad" car suddenly made good by going to a different dealer; I've seen a "bad" car that never gets fixed; and I've seen a "bad" car that suddenly is made good merely by changing owners
If a car is made by humans, it's going to have screw-ups
That is interesting because all the “exclusive” autos always tout their “built by hand” engines; such as Ferrari, AMG, BMW M, Aston Martin etc., even Ford’s GT (Edmunds has the link for their factory tour). This is usually one person assigned to the task and then they sign their name for your engine.
I assume these built by hand engines are still built with tools (heh), maybe they mean they’re built with closer inspection.
I too always assumed that if the manufacturing process was automated (robots) the product would be higher quality (on average).
Robot built cars are probably more reliable, almost certainly, but have less character. Knowing the name of the person who built and signed your air conditioning compressor would be somewhat small consolation if it didn't work very well. I suppose you could complain to "Ralph" rather than Mazda :P
Robots don't get depressed as a rule or take revenge on their masters.
heh...you could have all the parts signed by the individual builder...then taking a chapter from on-call programmers...you could page them at any time and ask why their part failed.
Robots don't get depressed as a rule or take revenge on their masters We'll see...(too many Sci-Fi movies)
Fact is, problem with AC needs to be fixed. PERIOD. Cars cost too much to chalk it up to loose tolerances and manufacturing variances. We are not talking about walkmans or remote controls. We're talking about $300+ payments for 60 months- aka serious money. Testing the A/C in a cool garage and then saying it falls under spec is complete B.S. They need to test the A/C in a mall parking lot after grocery shopping for 2 hours in the summer. I know that isn't feasible but my point should be clear. It doesn't not seem to me that Mazda wants to fix the problem. I wrote them a lengthy letter about the woefully inadequate A/C and malfunctioning transmission upshifts. I agree, every car won't perform perfectly. However, it is the company's responsibility to address the issues. If my car can't be fixed, I'll have to take a hit and trade it in for something that can keep me cool in the summer and won't jerk my car in the morning.
No need here for winter tires, not planning to drive in the snow, heading south for 5 months but gee I hope my A/C is going to keep me cool enough. I see the subject of the A/C has not been talked about very much here....
Sounds like we have the same 2 problems - weak AC plus harsh shifting (1-2 gear) automatic tranny.
I also have the grinding rear brakes - they have been fixed 2 times - helps for about a month - then they start grinding again.
Sorry to see another car with the same issue - wish I could give you some advise - but about all I can say is - getting my windows tinted really helped the weak AC - my car is now acceptable - not cold or even real cool - but I don't sweat while driving now unless the temp is over 95 degrees.
I was getting the harsh shift mostly in the morning - first 3-5 shifts every morning were very harsh - then just a little jerk for a few shifts - and then so smooth I could not even tell the gears have changed unless I looked at the dash light.
I drive mostly city - but did take a 100 mile highway trip - no traffic - most of the miles were 80-85 MPH - the next day my jerky tranny was smooth. It lasted about a week - then slowly the jerky shifts returned - now it is back to the way it was before the highway drive.
I though that my spark plugs could be getting fouled - and maybe that was causing the harsh shift - the way everything is computer controlled maybe the combination of a cold engine & fouled plugs was impacting the shift point or something - I have checked the plugs 2 times and they look great - but I did read about a type of spark plug problem called a DRY FOUL. It can be cleared by bringing the engine temp up - like taking a long highway drive. I am still considering changing out my plugs - moving up one (hotter) heat range - but have had some problems finding the NGK plug Mazda recommends. The are about $60 if I buy them on line.
I was washing my windshield today - one little spot would not come clean - it was a little bit out of my reach - but instead of walking around to the other side of the car - I put my hand on the hood right next to the driver side fender - while leaning over the hood so I could wipe off the spot my hand put a nice little dent in the hood. It looks like a baseball hit it. I tried to pop it out from the inside of the hood - got most of the dent out - but can see the outline of where the dent use to be.
I know that all car companies use thin metal now a days - lower cost plus less weight - so it would not have been much different if it was a Honda or Toyota - but just we warned - the metal on these cars is very easy to dent.
I was fortunate. My salesperson was a real pro who knew the car inside and out. No pressure.
Some of these salespeople could be selling shoes for all they care. They are just order takers and do not add any value IMO. They don't last long. The ones that know their product and build their business on referrals are great.
The actual dent is gone -If I look from the front I can't see anything - but from the drivers seat plus some sun light - I can see the outline of where the dent was.
I parked next to a red Mazda3 i yesterday and it had a dent in the same place.
Could be I am not the only one that leans on the hood when I wash the windshield.
Yep, mess I am! Working 12-hour days the past three days (Wednesday morning I left for work at 3:30 a.m.!!!), picking up the kiddo from daycare, doing the grocery shopping, cooking the dinners ... OH, WOE IS ME!!!
About the only fun I've gotten this week has been the 30-minute commute either side of work.
To answer your question ... my Velocity Red 2005 Mazda3S hatch -- with 5-speed, but of course -- is loggin' up them miles with ultra-reliable rapidity.
I just crossed 9,000 last night!!!
This car is proving to be just as reliable as the three Proteges I've owned in the past and my wife's Protege5 that's sitting in our driveway (actually, right now it's zooming its way to her place of employment -- hopefully she's keeping it in the road. It's a 2002 and it's got 54,000 trouble-free miles on it).
I parked next to a red Mazda3 i yesterday and it had a dent in the same place.
Interesting.
The hood on my 2000 Protege was smooth all the way across, and it used to "give" a little when I leaned on it while waxing, changing wiper blades, etc. They changed the hood in 2001 (and it carried over into my wife's 2002 Protege5), where it now had a crease running down the center of the hood from grille to windshield. My wife's car's hood is much more resistant to "giving" under pressure.
I'll say this -- the sheet metal on the 3 feels more substantial still than the metal on the last-generation Protege -- hood crease or not. Of course, I have a 3 hatch, and as you know the 3 hatch has a more sculpted hood than the sedan. Possibly this contributes to the 3's hood feeling more substantial. It is interesting that they kept the crease in the center of the 3 sedan's hood but it's not present in the 3 hatch's hood. I guess the sculpting down the sides strengthens the hatch's hood -- kinda like that physics experiment where you can make a bridge strong enough to hold a couple of pounds out of a sheet of paper by putting a lot of folds in the paper.
Looks are subjective - but IMO the hood of the sedan looks better - on the sedan - the hood on the hatch - looks better on the hatch.
My daughter plays soccer with a girl - her mother has a HB - she had to replace the grill because some guy backed into her in the Walmart parking lot. (Then he just drove away).
She was explaining to me how she replaced the damaged part herself - and then she says - I guess you already know how this fits together since you own a Mazda3. So I say - but mine is a sedan - they are different. She says - no way they are the same - and actually goes out into the parking lot and looks at both cars!
My wipers suck. When I clean the windshield while driving, I am blinded temporarily. I thought it was the washer fluid from the factory, so I replaced and it is still bad. Can anyone recommend good wipers? Do people still have luck with Rain-X or is that bad? On a better note, I got 33 mpg on my last trip to SD.
Agreed. The stock wipers are Boschs and, while Bosch makes good spark plugs and electronics, I don't think they've got their act together in the rubber department. I've got 9,000 miles on my 3 and I'm about to replace mine just because of all my industrial-area highway driving and all the gunk I've had to remove from my windshield with them.
I replaced the stock wipers on my old 2000 Protege, and on my wife's 2002 Protege5, with Anco wipers (not just blade refills, but the part that holds them as well). BIG difference -- best $25 I ever spent on my Protege. The blades themselves were more substantial too and seemed to "grip" the windshield better.
Have you checked the windshield glass' surface? If there's a coating of road film or other "gunk" you may need to clean the glass thoroughly. I use "Bon Ami" cleanser for this. It's safe to use and works great, though hard to find in some areas. Others have said that "Soft Scrub" cleaner also works. I haven't tried "Soft Scrub" myself.
I was attempting to see what mpg I could get, only got 27mpg (on-ramps to enticing), so I went till the fuel indicator light went on. We were having a garage sale the next day so I parked out on my STEEP driveway (first time leaving it out overnight). In the morning it was very humid and cool.
I tried a few times, even depressing the gas pedal to the floor and it would NOT START :surprise: just cranked over. Later in the day I rolled it down the driveway to a level portion and it started up :confuse:
Not sure of the issue, but a little disconcerting.
Normally if you park with the car pointed UP hill it is not a problem -
When my fuel light comes on it takes 12.5 gallons to fill it up - so I have about 2 gallons left. Seems like 2 gallons should be enough fuel to not be a problem.
Not sure about the Mazda3 - but some cars have the fuel pump in the gas tank - if you run out of gas you can hear the pump running - it makes a WRRRRR sound. Very bad for the fuel pump to run it dry.
If the fuel gets real low parking on an incline could cause a problem, depending on where the fuel outlet/pickup is on the tank - front, middle or rear. This problem isn't unique the Mazda3.
BTW, pushing gas pedal to floor during start cycle shuts off flow to injectors; it's used to clear a flooded condition. Agree with others about gas pickup being left high and dry due to slope.
I thought that might be the case, but I had my Nissan mini-van parked out side as well and it started right up.
The Nissan was on the “reserve”, i.e. fuel indicator light on, much longer than the 3. The 3’s light JUST turned on; not that you could compare the two in that situation since the Nissan has a bigger reserve and is a different type of vehicle (would a Civic have displayed a similar problem?).
Not sure why we had both vehicles sitting there with the fuel lights on we never wait that long.
My driveway is pretty steep and when I finally re-fueled I put in 12.1 gallons so there should have been a little left in oh well just never happened to me before; if that was the problem then I can deal with that.
I've got 9,000 miles on my 2005 Mazda3 and I've never put more than 12 gallons in it. If I refuel within 20 miles of my fuel light coming on, I invariably wind up putting 11.5 gallons in the car.
Same here, except for the last time pump went all the way to 12.2. After driving since, it seems that my fuel guage has not dropped as much as I expected. Contributing factors: still a new car and the pump shut off was a bit delay???
Pump auto shut off isn't a sure thing. In fact, I can imagine where some pumps may spill over when fueling due to defects (e.g. computer glitch, etc.).
I've been looking at the Mazda 3s for a couple of weeks now, and I am really interested in the car. Yesterday, however, a friend of mine said, "You know that's basically a Focus with a different body, right?"
Is there any truth to that? I bought a 2002 Focus brand new and sold it in early 2004 because it was not holding up the way I thought a car should. I don't want "another" Focus.
If it is a Focus it is an amazing Focus I believe that the platform is currently being used in the European Focus (or Focus II something like that). I think it will make it’s debut in the 2007 or 2008 American Focus.
Platform sharing does not mean the same car. I read a definition recently, can’t find it, that described what exactly is shared and it really isn’t much. It saves a bit on engineering and manufacturing when platforms are “shared”.
I prefer to think of my Mazda 3 as sharing it’s platform with the Volvo S40 (which it currently does).
Yesterday, however, a friend of mine said, "You know that's basically a Focus with a different body, right?"
He was very wrong. The Mazda3 and the U.S. Focus have virtually nothing in common except for rear suspension design (but they don't even share parts there).
Comments
AC help???
I also found this review - done by AutoSite
http://www.aicautosite.com/Reviews/2004-mazda-3.asp
The part that is interesting -AC wise is
WEAK AIR CONDITIONING CAPACITY
The air conditioner’s ability to cool the cabin was deemed questionable during a springtime heat wave that sent temperatures soaring above 100 degrees in downtown Los Angeles. High temperatures, a black interior, and leather seats require deep-freeze A/C capability, and the Mazda 3 did not deliver – Phoenix residents considering the 2004 Mazda 3, be warned.
This was published 5/2004 - by then I already knew my AC was defective.
Anyone who states that Mazda will not fix a problem " because it costs too much" is clearly delusional, they address and correct all problems.
I would suggest you go to a Mazda dealer- Get in a Mazda 3 hatchback - drive it in traffic and on the highway and see what you think of the AC, that should end all the speculation, and allow you to determine whether it will be adequate for you.
We drove 250 miles today, on city and interstates, in 90 degree weather, and our AC was superb.
.
I have an immediate relative that works as a mechanical Engineer for a parts supplier to a major Auto Manufacturer (American). He spoke of an existing problem this engine had as a result of a part they supply. This part was designed many years ago so it did not properly “mesh” with the changes in the surrounding parts.
This problem caused, in some cases, a break down of the part that resulted in the loss of fluids but nothing major in most cases the owners would continue driving assuming everything was fine. In a few cases it caused the total loss of fluids and therefore risked engine damage.
There were a number of engineers that worked on their own time to design a superior part and they pushed the manufacturer to implement it (pride thing). The additional cost was 80 cents (or just under). Since this part would have been installed on over 1 millions engines per year it was rejected.
It was determined (bean counters) that the warranty costs did not outweigh the costs of the new part.
With that said my 3’s AC works fine in all weather.
The cost in sales and ratings is simply to great to allow a problem which is correctable to continue.
Mazda has consistantly demonstrated their ability and intent to correct all problems with all their models.
The 2004 Mazda 3 has remained a check rated auto in Consumer Reports on line ratings due to its high reliability and lack of problems, including but not limited to the AC.
Had there been any significant mechanical problems with the Mazda 3 it would no longer be check rated or reccomended.
There may be a small number of individuals experiencing AC problems, but make no mistake the Mazda 3 has been and remains a highly reliable car with an excellent AC system.
If Mazda is concerned about a on going problem they should tell the dealers to treat the A/C seriously if any owners feel they have a problem.
I took my car in to have the A/C checked as I felt it was weak. All they did was check the temp at the vents and found it to be within spec. just barely. That test is not enough. The system should be checked for leaks, evacuted, and recharged. There are other tests and procedures that should also be done but too long to post.My compressor cycles every 10 seconds which is not long enough to cool the cabin. I mentioned it to the dealer and they said it should because it is hot outside...duh. It appears my dealer is not interested in solving my problem. I know some will say that not all dealers are the same, which is probably true. Will give the dealer one more chance, I think thats fair. But will contact the Service Manager first.
Check the long TSB list for the 04 which could be a negative but could also be a positive for Mazda because they addressed the production issues and problems owners have.
If my car was out of warranty I am sure they would take the time to test it properly with a cost to me.
That's a blanket statement that's not really true or false. A manufacturer can and will allow a problem to exist if the cost of fixing it is greater than the cost of just doing nothing. I'm not saying they always will, but they can and they do.
"The cost in sales and ratings is simply to great to allow a problem which is correctable to continue."
Again, the cost in lost sales and risk of bad ratings must be weighed against the cost of the correction.
"Mazda has consistantly demonstrated their ability and intent to correct all problems with all their models."
That's another generalization that's not true for Mazda, or for that matter any auto manufacturer.
"The 2004 Mazda 3 has remained a check rated auto in Consumer Reports on line ratings due to its high reliability and lack of problems, including but not limited to the AC."
Don't get me wrong, I like the Mazda3. However, CR ratings are not always on the mark, and they have been known to change their rating for a particular car. A lot has been written about the pros and cons of CR's methods and the value of their published results.
"Had there been any significant mechanical problems with the Mazda 3 it would no longer be check rated or reccomended."
I depends how you define "significant", and you're assuming that they would automatically know about the problem.
"There may be a small number of individuals experiencing AC problems, but make no mistake the Mazda 3 has been and remains a highly reliable car with an excellent AC system."
I agree it's a highly reliable car, but I think they probably sized the AC system a little on the small side, and due to manufacturing variances a small number of people get cars with AC systems that can't perform well in certain conditions. I strongly suspect that they know this, but since the car is selling so well (and most owners think the AC is OK) they decided they can afford a little negative talk.
Meade
Exactly what do you think specs are for?
Customer dissatisfaction is a combination of a possibly substandard component or assembly procedure, compounded by a less that competent dealer or staff, compounded by an owner who is fed up with bringing it back five times. It's a great drama and we all seem to play a part. How much is the car's fault, the dealer's fault or the owner's fault is something that we'll rarely get an answer to.
I've seen a "bad" car suddenly made good by going to a different dealer; I've seen a "bad" car that never gets fixed; and I've seen a "bad" car that suddenly is made good merely by changing owners
Go figure.
That is interesting because all the “exclusive” autos always tout their “built by hand” engines; such as Ferrari, AMG, BMW M, Aston Martin etc., even Ford’s GT (Edmunds has the link for their factory tour). This is usually one person assigned to the task and then they sign their name for your engine.
I assume these built by hand engines are still built with tools (heh), maybe they mean they’re built with closer inspection.
I too always assumed that if the manufacturing process was automated (robots) the product would be higher quality (on average).
I suppose you could complain to "Ralph" rather than Mazda :P
Robots don't get depressed as a rule or take revenge on their masters.
Robots don't get depressed as a rule or take revenge on their masters
We'll see...(too many Sci-Fi movies)
for those interested in improving their A/C try this http://www.icorinternational.com
I also have the grinding rear brakes - they have been fixed 2 times - helps for about a month - then they start grinding again.
Sorry to see another car with the same issue - wish I could give you some advise - but about all I can say is - getting my windows tinted really helped the weak AC - my car is now acceptable - not cold or even real cool - but I don't sweat while driving now unless the temp is over 95 degrees.
I was getting the harsh shift mostly in the morning - first 3-5 shifts every morning were very harsh - then just a little jerk for a few shifts - and then so smooth I could not even tell the gears have changed unless I looked at the dash light.
I drive mostly city - but did take a 100 mile highway trip - no traffic - most of the miles were 80-85 MPH - the next day my jerky tranny was smooth. It lasted about a week - then slowly the jerky shifts returned - now it is back to the way it was before the highway drive.
I though that my spark plugs could be getting fouled - and maybe that was causing the harsh shift - the way everything is computer controlled maybe the combination of a cold engine & fouled plugs was impacting the shift point or something - I have checked the plugs 2 times and they look great - but I did read about a type of spark plug problem called a DRY FOUL. It can be cleared by bringing the engine temp up - like taking a long highway drive. I am still considering changing out my plugs - moving up one (hotter) heat range - but have had some problems finding the NGK plug Mazda recommends. The are about $60 if I buy them on line.
Oh -- back to sleep. SS, DD.
Meade
I know that all car companies use thin metal now a days - lower cost plus less weight - so it would not have been much different if it was a Honda or Toyota - but just we warned - the metal on these cars is very easy to dent.
Some of these salespeople could be selling shoes for all they care. They are just order takers and do not add any value IMO. They don't last long. The ones that know their product and build their business on referrals are great.
Another source for the mirror: http://www.trussvillemazda.com/PartsStore/index.cfm
I got mine there for $244 including freight. I ordered from them when I had my Miata and had great service.
Mark
I parked next to a red Mazda3 i yesterday and it had a dent in the same place.
Could be I am not the only one that leans on the hood when I wash the windshield.
About the only fun I've gotten this week has been the 30-minute commute either side of work.
To answer your question ... my Velocity Red 2005 Mazda3S hatch -- with 5-speed, but of course -- is loggin' up them miles with ultra-reliable rapidity.
I just crossed 9,000 last night!!!
This car is proving to be just as reliable as the three Proteges I've owned in the past and my wife's Protege5 that's sitting in our driveway (actually, right now it's zooming its way to her place of employment -- hopefully she's keeping it in the road. It's a 2002 and it's got 54,000 trouble-free miles on it).
Meade
Interesting.
The hood on my 2000 Protege was smooth all the way across, and it used to "give" a little when I leaned on it while waxing, changing wiper blades, etc. They changed the hood in 2001 (and it carried over into my wife's 2002 Protege5), where it now had a crease running down the center of the hood from grille to windshield. My wife's car's hood is much more resistant to "giving" under pressure.
I'll say this -- the sheet metal on the 3 feels more substantial still than the metal on the last-generation Protege -- hood crease or not. Of course, I have a 3 hatch, and as you know the 3 hatch has a more sculpted hood than the sedan. Possibly this contributes to the 3's hood feeling more substantial. It is interesting that they kept the crease in the center of the 3 sedan's hood but it's not present in the 3 hatch's hood. I guess the sculpting down the sides strengthens the hatch's hood -- kinda like that physics experiment where you can make a bridge strong enough to hold a couple of pounds out of a sheet of paper by putting a lot of folds in the paper.
Consider these (large, sorry) pics:
http://media.mazda.ch/dossiers/mazda3/images/high/MAZDA3_CD2_04.jpg
http://media.mazda.ch/dossiers/mazda3/images/high/mazda3_27.jpg
Meade
My daughter plays soccer with a girl - her mother has a HB - she had to replace the grill because some guy backed into her in the Walmart parking lot. (Then he just drove away).
She was explaining to me how she replaced the damaged part herself - and then she says - I guess you already know how this fits together since you own a Mazda3. So I say - but mine is a sedan - they are different. She says - no way they are the same - and actually goes out into the parking lot and looks at both cars!
The details are lost on some people.
Meade
I replaced the stock wipers on my old 2000 Protege, and on my wife's 2002 Protege5, with Anco wipers (not just blade refills, but the part that holds them as well). BIG difference -- best $25 I ever spent on my Protege. The blades themselves were more substantial too and seemed to "grip" the windshield better.
Meade
I was attempting to see what mpg I could get, only got 27mpg (on-ramps to enticing), so I went till the fuel indicator light went on. We were having a garage sale the next day so I parked out on my STEEP driveway (first time leaving it out overnight). In the morning it was very humid and cool.
I tried a few times, even depressing the gas pedal to the floor and it would NOT START :surprise: just cranked over. Later in the day I rolled it down the driveway to a level portion and it started up :confuse:
Not sure of the issue, but a little disconcerting.
When my fuel light comes on it takes 12.5 gallons to fill it up - so I have about 2 gallons left. Seems like 2 gallons should be enough fuel to not be a problem.
Not sure about the Mazda3 - but some cars have the fuel pump in the gas tank - if you run out of gas you can hear the pump running - it makes a WRRRRR sound. Very bad for the fuel pump to run it dry.
The Nissan was on the “reserve”, i.e. fuel indicator light on, much longer than the 3. The 3’s light JUST turned on; not that you could compare the two in that situation since the Nissan has a bigger reserve and is a different type of vehicle (would a Civic have displayed a similar problem?).
Not sure why we had both vehicles sitting there with the fuel lights on we never wait that long.
My driveway is pretty steep and when I finally re-fueled I put in 12.1 gallons so there should have been a little left in oh well just never happened to me before; if that was the problem then I can deal with that.
Meade
Pump auto shut off isn't a sure thing. In fact, I can imagine where some pumps may spill over when fueling due to defects (e.g. computer glitch, etc.).
Is there any truth to that? I bought a 2002 Focus brand new and sold it in early 2004 because it was not holding up the way I thought a car should. I don't want "another" Focus.
Steve Edge
Platform sharing does not mean the same car. I read a definition recently, can’t find it, that described what exactly is shared and it really isn’t much. It saves a bit on engineering and manufacturing when platforms are “shared”.
I prefer to think of my Mazda 3 as sharing it’s platform with the Volvo S40 (which it currently does).
He was very wrong. The Mazda3 and the U.S. Focus have virtually nothing in common except for rear suspension design (but they don't even share parts there).
Meade