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My build date is 12/03. Later the better, I'd suspect.
This is a first year model, and in a nod to other folk who have had some glitches, not surprising. However, doesn't seem to be much in the way of serious drive train weakness.
So what gives? Is it possible that the pads on the rear have a higher metallic content than the front pads or are otherwise different?
If all pads are exactly the same, does anyone have an idea as to why it's just happening on the rear?
I'm considering taking it to a brake shop next week. The Mazda dealer is just protecting his rear, he won't admit to anything wrong. Until a TSB is issued, it's a waste of time.
The problem could be that the rear brakes are dragging - ever so slightly. Not enough to hurt performance - like driving with the E-brake partly on, but just enough to cause extra brake dust. Just a guess - but that would be consistent with the symptoms being described.
Comparing the wear of front and rear pads should tell a tale.
http://www.adamspolishes.com is his web site.
The detail spray he sells is beyond belief!
After washing, you take the detail spray and his micro mesh cloths and clean up any spots. It works good with the Mr Clean stuff too. Let the car dry and clean up any missed spots with the detail spray. I washed 4 cars in an hour and a half!
Has anyone been able to examine the pads to see if there's any difference? For example if they are of a higher metallic content?
pads."
There, that's it, the official word from the manufacturer. The dust must be casued by an over application of the rear brakes or it could be another defect. Also the pads are semi-metallic.
psymn
When I turn the key the other way it goes away.
LOL
:P
Thanks for the tip though.
That should clear up your problem when you turn your key!
;o)
everfeb
You really made me laugh with the Volvo comment. You see, my dad owned probably five or six early-'70s Volvos (144 series) back in the late '70s to mid-'80s. In fact I learned to drive in a '73 Volvo.
The thing I won't ever forget is how long those cars took to start, and then how they didn't ever want to turn off! My poor dad would be out there in the morning, cranking that engine -- rm, rm, rm, rm, rm, rm, sputter, rm, rm, rm, rm, rm, sputter, sputter, etc. etc! Fifteen minutes later he'd come inside to get us while the poor car sputtered and choked in the driveway. Then, when he got home from work in the afternoon, he'd turn off the car, take out the key and get out and be halfway to the front door and that poor car would still be "dieseling" in the driveway! It was a riot. I swear you could get into a Volvo 144, put it in gear and take off five minutes after the owner took the key out.
That, and did you ever notice a '70s or '80s Volvo that had BOTH rear mud flaps? Every single one of them I've ever seen is missing one of them. My dad used to stop and pick his up when they fell off the car.
Volvo -- safe, yes. Funky? You bet!
Don't even get me STARTED on the 1980 Saab I owned!!!
Meade
I pulled out the ashtray to get some change that I had been storing. I went to slide the change into my hand, but because of the ridge in the middle of the tray some of the coins got bumped out .... and of all places it went down into the hole at the base of the emergency brake. How the %*!# do I get it out? or is it a lost cause?
Meade
By the way I've also had a couple of Hyundai's in my background as well, a 1998 Accent and 2001 Tuburon. I heard horror stories about the Excel and when I got the Accent I received some disapproval from friends and family.
As long as they're not pennies ...
Meade
The Customer Service Manager (at head office, not a dealership), and a representative at head office BOTH said: the use of synthetic oil on ANY Mazda vehicle will nullify the warranty.
I asked the Customer Service Manager at Mazda's Head Office if this policy only applied to the RX-8 (where synth is not recommended), and I was told twice, No - that the policy applies to ALL Mazda cars sold in Canada.
Mazda Canada apparently doesn't care if the synthetic oil is 5-20 and meets all API and ILSAC specs. It nullifies the warranty.
When I pointed out that there is absolutely NO documentation in our owners manuals banning synthetic, they replied that nevertheless THIS was the official policy of Mazda Canada for all vehicles.
The reason I called Mazda Canada in the first place, is that I wanted to know if it was permissible to use a synthetic 5-30, because as we know, there are very few synthetic 5-20's available. Just Amsoil, and now Pennzoil, and Castrol Syntec (very new). Most Mazda dealerships in Canada don't offer a synthetic 5-20 oil change, and instead were putting in synth 5-30's.
Head office for Mazda Canada says not only will Synthetic 5-30 nullify the warranty, but so will the synthetic 5-20!!
To me, it's outrageous. But that's what they said: twice and unequivocally.
The funny thing is that the DEALERS themselves (I polled 6 of them in the Toronto area) say a synthetic 5-20 is fine for the warranty, as long as it meets specs.
I think Mazda Canada had better clean up its act, and inform both its customer AND its dealers what its official policy is IN writing, or we're going to see some serious lawsuitsin future years, if engines start to fail.
ASIDE: I asked Mazda Canada why a synthetic 5-20 would nullify the warranty on an engine that calls for a 5-20, and I was told (again on two separate occasions) is that the problem with many synthetic oils is that they "do not burn", and that Mazda engines are not meant or designed to work with oils that have this property.
Less wear = fewer problems.
Fewer problems = less money for Mazda Service.
I'd ask to get that in writing.
I'd especially like to see what happens if your dealership recommends (or even provides) synthetic oil and then Mazda denies a warranty claim.
Meade
Thanks for the advise, I will check that out at lunch-time. Well I got the car back and they have now replace the hatch struts because if you grab them while the hatch is up, they make a popping noise as well. Could not tell if it was the exact same noise cause the car was not moving. The new ones are tight, but the weather is warm and this noise only shows up 45 degrees and below. So I guess I cannot test your theory right now either. But you better believe I will be testing it in the future. By the way, what kind of "foam" did they place "on" the bumper? Was it that "thick tape" kind?? Let me know, because I will probably go ahead and do it myself.. As nice as my dealer service has been, I am sick of going up there and I am sure they are sick of me, even though they told me they could not believe how calm I have been about it cause they have been cussed out for far less. Guess that is why they are trying to really help me.
called the dealer and said "its my turn to have the sensor changed - the airbag light came on"
they had one in stock, took me in the next day, and swapped it out in half an hour. no hassle, no waiting for the light to stay on permanently, etc.
to pour kerosine on the fire once more, "your car must be from mazda, but your dealer must be from ford".
I've had hot rears and more wear than front, but no grabbing. However, with this being a recurrent issue not resolved yet, don't let him get away with saying it is not a warranty issue. Mazda Corporate by now is well aware of the complaints. Keep us posted.
Other than that tho I LOVE me 3, lots of pep, good milage getting about 27 MPG and I do half and half driving. and lots more interior room than the old Saturn. ZOOM-ZOOM
I would not suggest that dealerships be prohibited by Mazda from installing this stuff, but I think if the dealership decides to do it, they have a responsibility to inform the owner that they could be in for warranty issues. The owner also has a responsibility to ask about it. Personally, I would assume up front that installing any non-Mazda approved hardware (especially electronics) could raise warranty issues,and I wouldn't install anything like that until the car is out of warranty.
m3momma - What did they tell you about this when they added the autostart? Did you ask? Did they volunteer the information?
ie. intake, light bulbs, exhaust etc.
I didn't ask if my heated seats would affect my warranty, only what kind of warranty they came with. hmmm... you guys got me wondering now.
But it should be ok because it has nothing to do with the engine right??
Of course, dealers routinely install those "security key" gizmos on cars even before they're sold. Those things require hacking into the wiring, so I would not buy a car with one of those on it, even if they offer to remove it.My basic rule is, if the dealer modifies the car in any way, the sale is off. I don't count those cute little dealer logos they put on the back of the car though, as long as they don't drill any holes in the car to put it on.:)
In other words, just keep your fingers crossed that you don't have any electrical problems, since the installation of your your heated seats required an electrical connection to power the heaters.