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Thanx for the "welcome back." It was appreciated.
igozoomzoom:
I'm not sure that I completely understood your question concerning my post but.....
yes, there is another style, i.e., the 4d sedan. Now then, if you were being sarcastic,
my answer to your question would have been, "Not as far as I'm concerned."
berbel
of which have had Japanese name plates. Until I bought the Mazda, I have NEVER
had a problem outfitting my cars with such accessories as mud flaps, window
visors, moon roof visors, aero kits, etc. Not only is my dealer telling me that
a lot of these accessories are unavailable for my car but I can't even find a lot
of this stuff in the after market either. This makes absolutely no sense to me.
I mean, like who doesn't have basic stuff like mud flaps available for the cars they
sell besides Mazda???
Does anyone here have any insight on this?
Thanks/berbel
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Oh yeah, I did check the brochure. Available for the sedan as you noted but
not for the hatch. Living in east central Ohio with our winters, my doors and
fenders are taking a beating and those flaps would go a long way to alleviating
this.
Incidentally, is this board usually this slow? The last time I spent any time on
Edmund's boards was when I owned a Nissan Maxima and that board had numerous
posts every day.
I think I'm going to send an email to Mazda in CA and ask them why they are
discriminating against h.b. owners with regard to accessories.....Take care.
I've had exactly the same experience as you with the power steering on my 2010 i touring. The noise didn't start until a month or so into ownership, but has grown progressively worse. One person (with an extensive technical background) who heard it guessed that it might involve feedback between electrical sensors. Contrary to what some other posters here have to say, I'd be surprised if this problem isn't widespread.
Aside from this and a few minor quibbles, I'm happy with the car. I chose it over a civic ex, and don't regret the decision.
I have learned to tolerate the annoying whining sound from my 2010 3 i touring's power steering unit, which varies in intensity. (Note that the whine disappears when the parking brake is applied.) At my next oil change in a few months, I have scheduled a road test with a mechanic at the dealership to point out to him exactly what I'm talking about. So far, I've been told that there is nothing that can be done to reduce the whine. I have not given up, though. Thank you for your friend's suggestion about possible electrical sensor feedback.
I agree, too, with your last sentence. I am happy with my purchase overall, and have no regrets.
Based on your post, the vibration seems to occur:
a) when accelerating
b) at a stop light when in drive but not in Neutral
c) at a stop light when in Neutral but not in Drive when temp outside is 60+.
Does "a" happen whenever you accelerate? For example, from a stop light?
Has the car been warmed up (that is driven for at least 10 minutes) in the case of "b" and "c"?
You mention the noise coming from the passenger side. Have you checked that it's not coming from inside the car interior, like the glove box?
Something I noticed yesterday: While on the highway (65mph) there were slight dips in the road. When I went over them, the car made the sound, but intermittently.
This has been going on for 2 months and has not gotten worse. Thanks for responding.
The only thing i can think of right now is when i turn the heat or A/C on the fan in the engine will "pulsate" go one for a few seconds then cut off then turn back on. Does anyone know why it does this? and what can i do to fix it or is it normal.
Also whats the life span on these transmissions?
If you could answer this that would be awesome and any other maintenance i should do before its to late. Thanks Alot!
Jason
The transaxle should easily last the life of the car if maintained properly and not abused. I'd change the oil in it every 50K at a minimum. As for other preventative maintenance, I'd change the coolant every three years and the brake fluid every two years. Run a good synthetic 5W-20 and you can get away with changing the engine oil every 7,500 miles.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
No, you have to ask for those services separately.
Who do you think i should bring it to for a bad relay?
The relay is just a guess on my part. You need to find a shop that employs mechanics- not just some joker who throws parts at a problem. As for where to go, all I can suggest is checking out some of the regional boards on the Mazda forums; you should be able to find recommendations for good dealers or independent shops.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Curious, I thought the coolant was to be changed every two years.
I checked the Edmunds Maintenance page for the 2010 Mazda3 and you're right! I was quoting the coolant replacement service for my 2002 Mazda Protege5. That is an amazing difference! On the other hand, I suspect that the coolant inspection results in changes more frequent than once in the first decade.
p.s. Another important difference between the Mazda Protege and its successor, the Mazda3, is the replacement of the rubber timing belt by the timing chain; the longer lasting timing chain is a significant saving in maintenance for most drivers. Kudos to Mazda for making these types of improvements to the maintenance of their vehicles!
I took it to the dealer and it is power steering motor/pump failure. I read that this is a common problem and apparently there is a recall on it.
My car is still under the warranty and the part is backordered. Due to safety issue, dealer gave me a rental car to drive until it is fixed.
For all Mazda 3 owner, please watch out for the power steering warning light. If it comes on and your steering wheel tightens, don't panic. Use your muscle to pull it to the side of the road, restart it and see if it works. If it does, drive it to the dealer right away!!!
This may be related to your car's emissions control system, including your EGR valve. If it's dirty, the car will be "gasping" for air, consuming additional fuel and hesitating.
Mazda dealerships should be aware of this problem, but, also any good garage can check it out. I would tell the garage what you are experiencing; see what they suggest could be the cause. If they don't mention your emissions control systems, then you might want to suggest it to them. Or, you might want to check another garage.
By the way, this may be a good time to mention that the fuel you use can affect the engine components, including the emissions systems. So, the bargain gasoline that is a few cents cheaper may not really be a bargain.
My 2007 MS3 was throwing the P0401(EGR flow insufficient) code on a regular basis. I switched from Kroger 93 fuel to BP 93 and after a few tanks the problem has not reappeared. I've always run BP, Chevron, or Shell in my BMWs as I know they can be temperamental with regards to fuel quality, but I am surprised that fuel quality would have any significant effect on the function of the EGR system. Live and learn...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
"Cheap gasoline frequently contain more undesirable sulfur compounds and may increase combustion chamber carbon deposits. Such compounds contribute to higher exhaust emissions and catalytic converter problems ... The EGR valve re-circulates carbon dioxide from your vehicle's exhaust back through your engine. EGR valve symptoms are as of: experiencing reduced power, detonation (pinging), rough idle, or stalling and hesitation when accelerating."
From partsource.ca
I am experiencing the same problem you have just described. Although I couldn't stand looking at the check engine light on all the time. I took it to Mazda and had them run a diagnostic test on the car, and yes paid the $129.95 they charge just to get the codes off the computer. The problem is caused by the EGR valve ,that is constantly failing . If you have also gotten the AT light to tun on ,it's because the TSS Sensor is getting caught up in the problem. Although the AT light turned on I ws told the transmission is fine, but advised not to run the car for long distance until I get the part fixed. Overall Mazda wants to charge $595 to fix both the EGR valve and the TSS sensor. However. I checked with Advanced auto and they have the valve for $60.00. I will definitely take the car in this week to get fixed ,but it won;t be to mazda. I read that not replacing the EGR valve will cause damage to your engine in the long run. Hope this helps....
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
As soon as I drove off the lot, I noticed my speakers were not working I turned back around and took it back to the dealership and they said it was the fuse. So I took it to the service station the following week and they told me my amplifier was defective and they ordered a new one for me. A week later, I got it installed. About 4 days later, I get into the car and the battery is dead. I have to wait another few days until the weekend to take it back to the service station. They replaced the battery same day. Then I wake up early 4 days later, park the car in front of my house while I went on a 3 day school trip with my daughter. I return 3 days later and get into my car, the battery is dead again. I take it into the service station (this is right at the start of the Memorial Day weekend) and they tell me the car should be fixed by Wednesday, June 2. Mind you, this is May 29th at this point. I am waiting for my car now.
Oh, did I tell you I purchased this car on May 1, 2010. I have had it only a month and I have spent every Saturday at my service station because of this car.
I don't know about the 2010 models, personally I don't like them except for the hatchback model which is sharp looking.
Sorry about the problems you are having, but good thing that it is not engine related. Something is draining your battery for sure, and they need to find out what is causing it.
Now there is a loud squeak coming from somewhere in the rear hatch area, the center console lid rattles sometimes, passenger window rattles when it's partially down, instrument dials sometimes rattle... Really it's like the car was put together with Elmer's glue.
Since Mazda has said nothing is wrong with my car, I feel like I'm stuck with what could be a lemon, but you should definitely look into your state's lemon laws. You may qualify.
Well, I did look up my state's lemon laws (the second time the battery died). It says that if the same problem happens after the second time it is fixed by the dealership then I have to contact the manufacturer about my problem. I have to show them proof of the attempts to fix and then see if they will (1) try to fix the problem themself (they have one attempt to do it), (2) give me my money back or give me a new car or (3) they can decide to take me to administrative lemon law court and battle it out. So I have my 2 attempts down, let's see what happens next. My car is still in the shop as of today. I have been trying to reach them to find out about my car.
I took it to Hiley Mazda in Huntsville, Alabama after the first time it leaked and the rude service manager (after warning me that I would have to pay if they found leaves in the sunroof track?) said they'd look at it. According to him there was nothing wrong with my sunroof.
My mom has a 14 year old Honda Civic with a sunroof, and it's NEVER leaked. But I notice that her old Honda has a raised rubber seal around the sunroof while my Mazda is flush in order to look "cool." Anyone else ever have a sunroof leak?
But with a sunroof, this is a risk for sure. When I traded in my Honda for a Mazda, I decided not to get a sunroof because I don't want to have to worry about it.
Not to mention that it adds @60 lbs. of weight to the highest point in the car. I'm so glad my MS3 didn't come with a hole in the roof.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
My check engine light comes on and off all the time. Everytime i have it checked out the only thing they can figure out is that it is an "engine misfire".
After dealing with a blown gastic head for $1,500, now i am going to have to spend even more money to figure out exactly what the engine mis-fire is because my car won't pass inspection.
This will be the last car i by with mazda. I got the 3 over the civic but wish i had gotten the civic. The car sits too low the ground and scraps everything and the splash guard is a joke. It started falling apart within the first year. GRRRR
This is the first time I have heard that the Mazda3 sits too low. Does the Civic sit much higher than the Mazda3? Was your Mazda3r lowered as part of a modification?
blown gastic head
Did you mean a head gasket? Were engine components modified?