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Keep on your dealer to find a car with the same specs somewhere else. If you already left a deposit, then they're obligated to try, and to give it to you for the price you've already negotiated. You might be able to get them down another $100 or so if they find one in a different color. You can come out with something like "Well, I really don't like that color...maybe if it was a little bit cheaper I'd take it" and they might sweeten the deal a bit...or they might go look for a different color, who knows?
Mazda 3
Mazda 3 Owners: Problems & Solutions
thanks!
I had the same problem with a dealer over in CT...they wanted MSRP too.
I am also looking for dealers and prices paid in the valley and beyond. I head to LA frequently. The Fresno dealer has mostly gray models in stock?
I'd checked their website and it listed perhaps 15 or 20 Mazda 3s in stock in various configurations and colors.
When I went to the dealership there were only 5 or 6 Mazda 3s on the entire lot, and only one i model. Turns out that the website lists cars en-route as well as those that are actually on the ground at the dealership.
The i model was fairly basic, only had the power package and auto, no alloys or abs/side airbags.
Most car dealers tend to order the lower end models with relatively few options so if you're looking for a heavily loaded i model you'll probably have to order it and wait 5 weeks or more for it to arrive from Japan.
I ended up with an S sedan mainly because I did not want an automatic and the only stick they had was a sedan. I like the S model in the sedan because it has the body-color grille, transparent taillights, foglights, body sill extensions (not overdone imho), luminescent guage cluster, and a few other goodies not standard on the i. I also love the smoothness and low end torque of the 2.3 engine, though I think the 2.0 in the i is perfectly adequate and will get better mpg. The 2.0 manual got from 0-60 in 8 seconds flat for Consumer Reports and they don't get the best 0-60 times of all the testing mags.
I prefer the styling of the sedan. It reminds me of when Nissan advertised the Maxima as the "Four door sports car" in that it really looks like a 4 door sport coupe more than a grocery-getter sedan.
That being said, if the only stick on the lot had been a hatch I'd have bought it instead of the sedan.
As for price paid, I had a trade-in that I owed about $5400 on, almost upside down as far as trade-in value vs money still owed. They wrote up the deal as giving me 6500 for the trade and paying about list for the new car, which actually works out to about 1100-1200 off sticker price for the new car.
I'd strongly suggest you get some quotes off their internet system, that way when you go in you will only deal with the internet manager and avoid some of the normal shuffle.
When I bought mine I mentionned to the salesman after the test drive that I'd been researching on their website and he took me straight to the internet manager who handled the rest except for the inevitable session with the F&I guy which actually went very smoothly. I drove in to the lot at about 7:30 pm on a Saturday night only intending to look and maybe take a test drive and drove out in my new car only an hour and a half later, fairly quick in my experience having purchased probably 20 or so cars in my lifetime.
I think the nearest other dealer for Mazda is down in Selma--Selma Auto Mall. Their website doesn't list inventory so you have to call or go down there.
Another idea would be to pick up a copy of the Saturday LA Times and see what kinda deals the Mazda stores down there are offering if you're willing to go that far.
OT--what's the Camry dying of, I work for a Toyota dealer shop.
Can anyone please tell me if any of you were charge $200 for advertising fee when purchasing a Mazda 3, b/c the dealership where I went insist in charging me $200 for advertising fee, which I have never heard of before. I was wondering if this is usually? What should I do? Also, how much is tax anyway when purchasing a Mazda 3 hatchback. Is there a certain rate? Example, if my car comes out to be $16,780, how much should I exoect the tax to be? And how much is for tags?
Thank you very much
black 04 mazda3 hatchback with moonroof, 6 cd, and safety package for $18,775. Edmunds msrp/ invoice / tmv = $19,315 / $17,961 / $19,046.
PLUS the dealership will give me $900 for 97 VW Passat deisel with 170K miles and numerous dents and dings (and it doesn't drive tooiwell either.)
so the total cost of the car with tax and fees is $19,200.30.
my friend says he could have done better, but i disagree. what do you think?
Take your friend and the Passat to another Mazda dealer and tell him to go ahead and try to do better, then report back to us.
plus, the dealership pretty much said doctor my college degree so that it was within 2 years (i graduated in march of 02) to get an additional $500 off.
i think it is a great deal.
So far I just drove through the lot at Lithia. Lot's of 3's on the lot. Most of them are gray? Not my color of choice.
I requested contact from their internet manager and he's already emailed twice. Selma emailed too so far. I drive to LA a couple times a month so will look south also.
I need to head in and drive them to decide sedan or hatch. I like them both.
My Camry is dying of old age... 267k miles, oil leaks (top and bottom), burns oil, needs new struts, shocks and tires. Several other minor items need care also. Runs great and never left me stranded.
I can't say it never happens but most dealers don't give you a lot more for your trade than it is worth - However if a sales person thinks that trade in value is a big issue to the customer they will fudge it up a little and then add that amount plus a few hundred to the price of the car. They always come out ahead - which means you lose.
If a dealer agrees to give you a lot more for your trade then it is worth so you can qualify for a loan you need to be extra careful. Same thing as cheating on the date of your degree to get a rebate. WHY? Because -
If they are willing to lie & cheat to the bank and manufacturer why oh why would anyone think that they will not also lie & cheat you - the customer - even more. One of the oldest car sales tricks in the book is to make the customer think that they are doing something a little shaddy to "HELP" you - it makes the customer think they are getting something that they may not be able to get some place else - that normally means you are going to end up paying more not less.
Be real - the amount a bank will loan you on a new car has nothing - let me repete because someone will not agree - NOTHING to do with how much a bank will loan you. The amount a bank will loan you is determined by YOUR CREDIT RATING and the LOAN VALUE OF THE CAR you are buying. The loan value of the car is not what you agree to pay for it - only a foolish bank would do business this way.
If you don't think this is right - call your bank (or whatever finance company you want) and ask them - how large of a loan can I get on a Mazda3 with the options you want. After they give you the amount - if you want to look like a fool - ask them if the car dealer agrees to give you a thousand dollars more for your trade in (than it is worth) would they increase the loan amount? Once the banker stops laughing they will say - no - the trade in value has nothing to do with loan they will approve.
And the car is a POS!! No person in their right mind would give $1300 for it. The back bumper is held on by zip ties, the front 1/4 panel has a big dent and is beginning to rust. I think it needs power steering fluid (there is probably a leak), it was rear ended a few years ago so the back bumper and side panel were already replaced. It makes me sick to drive it from the deisel fumes. AND the locks freeze in the winter. Also, i've replaced the power window switches at about every year, at a cost of ~$250. They are going to go soon.
One dealership wouldn't even consider it as a trade in, and i couldn't in good consious sell it for any more then $1000. so i feel like it is a great deal.
If i get $1000 MORE for my trade in, HOW would that make my LOAN amount BIGGER?
Sounds like a $300 car to me! No dealer, new car or fly-by-night used car, could put this up for sale without thousands in repairs and reconditioning, plus it's a diesel which makes it even more unsalable. Some bargain hunting individual with lots of mechanical skill could pick this thing up at auction for nada and using wrecking yard parts maybe come up with a drivable work car, otherwise it's only value is as scrap.
Can anyone please tell me if any of you were charge $200 for advertising fee when purchasing a Mazda 3, b/c the dealership where I went insist in charging me $200 for advertising fee, which I have never heard of before. I was wondering if this is usually? What should I do? Also, how much is tax anyway when purchasing a Mazda 3 hatchback. Is there a certain rate? Example, if my car comes out to be $16,780, how much should I exoect the tax to be? And how much is for tags?
Thank you very much
the amount a bank will loan you on a new car has nothing to do with how much a bank will loan you. -- I ment to say - the amount a bank will loan you has nothing to do with the trade in value of your old car.
Sometimes a dealer will give a customer a story like - You owe $5,000 on your car - but it is only worth $4,000. They then offer to help you out - they will agree to give you $5,500 for your trade - they say that then they will be able to pay off the loan for you. But you must then buy the new car from them for a higher price. They also claim that based on this higher price they can get you financed. Many people think that since the dealer gave them more for their trade in - helped them pay off the loan that it is OK to pay more for the new car & agree to a larger loan.
I had no idea that your trade was in that bad of shape. Why would a dealer offer you more that the car is worth? Only way this will happen is if you also agree to pay more for the new car. The dealership really only cares about the net amount. Sale price of new car - trade in.
I have enough money to pay for the car in full, but do like the fact that with leasing you get a new car ever few years. But then again if I like the car a lot after two or three years and I want to keep it, will I lose a lot of money buying it after leasing it?
Can anyone give advice? I know very little about leasing and which is the better deal??
Also, a dealership in my area has gotten in the Mazda 3 hatch I was looking for in the color I wanted. It is an 2004 model and I don't know how big of a deal it is to buy an 04 now instead of waiting for an 05. I was originally told that it is definetely worth my while at this point to just wait for an 05 since it will have better resale value and it should not cost much more. I have not seen any great deals on the 04's to make me believe that they are the better deal??
I will say that most of the time a lease will cost more - but sometimes car companies have very good lease programs and they can be a good deal.
You could call mazda usa up and ask them if they support dealers adding on retarded fees. However, if you are purching it for invoice or close to invoice, consider it a great deal even with the $200 tacked on.
Also, nobody is answering your question because it depends on what state you are in. I have no idea where you live or how much the tax and licencing fees are. Just look it up on your state's motor vehicle web site.
1) is it worth it to get the consumer reports Price report, compared to going with figures available on Edmunds - are they the same except CR wants $12 and their web site isn't working?
2) Edmunds gives me $20.4 / 18. 9 / 20.3 for msrp /invoice / tmv. The Internet sales guy in Oakland is starting the deal at $20k, including transport. Does anyone have thoughts there?
3) The yellow color seems very unpopular, or at least rare. Do I have much leverage there - Oakland Mazda will have to get the car from Fresno and said they have to trade a car.
4) Do you believe the old tactics still work - buying an 04 when 05s are coming, or buying near the end of the month?
2)Recommend you use Edmunds data. See if you know someone who works for Ford and can get S-plan pricing. If not, I would think you can get within $300 of invoice. Don't pay any advertising or phony marketing fees, just base car+options+destination+sales tax. Make the dealer specify how much you are paying for each, and then compare to Edmunds dealer invoice data.
3)Yellow is ugly imho. Buy what you like. If you don't like yellow, don't buy it. Why spend approx $20K on something you don't like? If you like yellow, I hope you have leverage, but you have to remember the car itself is quite popular.
4) If you buy an 04, you will probably beat an anticipated $400-500 price increase in the 05. Buying at he end of the month, or better yet, at the end of the quarter is always a good idea. The Mazda3, however, is a hot car at the moment, so this tactic might not work as well as one would hope. I had no luck shopping at end of August. Best I could do was S-plan pricing.
Dealt with the internet sales guy from Selma Mazda. No real pressure to close. I will check out Lithia tomorrow and drive 1 or 2 of theirs. More later...
Tell me more about the S-plan. I do have a friend that works for Ford and offered the S-plan to me before I was looking for a Mazda.
Can I buy off the lot? Can I order what I want. What's the discount? Who do I deal with at the dealership?
Thanks
Discuss this openly with the any salesman when you look at the car. If he's not aware of the S-plan, talk to the sales manager.
Good luck and have fun!
Once the dealer knows you "really" want yellow - or whatever color - every car that is that color just went up in price. If the dealer has a lot full of silver and gray cars - and you tell him that you want a silver or gray car he will tell you that these are the most popular colors and they just can't keep them in stock - never mind that they have 100 of them. If you tell them that you want a yellow hatch - and they have one then you will be told that the yellow is very hot -or some BS like - Mazda just did not build that many yellow cars and that they can't keep them in stock.
Price increase?
If Mazda raises the price of the Mazda3 by $500 they will also (very soon there after) start offering $500 -$1,000 rebates - at least on some models.
With the very minor differences between the 2004 and 2005, it looks like there are some good deals out there with any of the dealers who have a lot of 2004s left. I found the car I wanted searching inventory at mazdausa.com, and then did the deal with e-mails to the internet sales manager.
People can probably get better deals than this, but we were really happy with the car and the price, and I think it will be a while before we could get a similar deal on a 2005.
Anybody else have details on an experience with the end of model year buying? Will rebates show up at any point to get rid of the last ones or is inventory low enough overall?
If I may ask, what dealer and city did you get your i?
Thanks
I see that Edmunds does not have any Invoice information for the automatic transmission. Can I assume that the base Invoice price only increases as much as the auto tranny($900)? Also, I have noticed that Mazda's customization forces you to choose the Sport package when you choose leather interior. Meanwhile, the brochure tells me its an option without any qualifiers. Which is it?
I think the only way to tell for sure would be to ask a Mazda dealer if they can order the leather pack without the sport pack, though I doubt if they can take orders on 04 models any more.
5200 miles in 3 months in our 2004 3s hatch. no problems at all. have to recommend you get the abs/sab/sac package also. only has to work once to make it worth the extra $$.
Also, I just got an email from a Mazda dealer saying he will honor the Edmunds TMV price. Should I accept or try to get him closer to invoice price? Its about $1000 over invoice.
I think I came away with a winner here.
Honestly, they're easier to find loaded up--one with ABS pack and not the moonroof pack, and then with leather on top of that is a rare bird. He pretty much had to order it fresh.
Enjoy your ride!
Anyways, I just got it last night and can't wait to ride it around this weekend.
This is my first new car purchase and I had PLENTY of questions and the salesman was looking at me with dollar signs in his eyes.