By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
you have to run a wire to it from a switch at the dash?
Who makes a good one and what do they run$$?
Thanks for any info!
Paul
A motor gets mounted under the rear seat with a cable that runs up to the window. The window itself is tinted and looks very clean ... you would never guess it wasn't stock on my LT (except that it doesn't have the standard defogger.
The manufacturer (and I believe the only one) is C. J. Laurence Company. I believe the cost was about $300. Official name is PowrSlider.
Richard
http://www.crlaurence.com/newcrlsite/tv00/Pages/2.html#t2
I used to have pictures of mine on my web site but removed tham a while back.
Richard
If you apply the fulcrom (sp?) physics to a long bed, then yes, the wheels could be in a situation where there is less pressure on the road for them. Remember, a longer fulcrom makes an easier lift? So, if your wheels are farther away from the most weight of the truck (cab, engine, etc..) then you will have less pressure to the road. Even though there is more weight due to the more steel in the back. The front of the truck is still the heaviest.
Heat dissipation may be better, but alumninum heads will hurt if you overheat the engine. Seriously overheating aluminum heads can cause warping, and in some engines, cracking which leads to blown head gaskets.
The reason GM has done so well on the fuel mileage is engine set-up. They appear to be using a leaner fuel mixture, higher compression ratio often 9.5 to 1, with a high end torque cam.
What this means is if you lay off the gas pedal, you'll get outstanding gas mileage. But you still will have very good torque if you really need it and great snap for passing.
The price paid means that right of the line, competition could get the drop on you, but in the end you will probably pass on by (in horse racing, they call it a strong close). The other price paid is that that gas mileage will drop seriously when towing or hauling near capacity loads.
Case in point! I live in W.Michigan and I went looking for a 2k 4dr 4x4 Ls. I located a dealer that said that he had one coming in. Week of 2/15.
He contacted me and I went and looked at it and drove it. Nice truck basic truck Pewter with power windows and locks, cd,cassette.
The problem was 4.10 rearend. I liked the truck, but I drive alot so I wanted the 3.73 rearend.
After a song and dance with the dealer, he tried everything in the world to get me to go with the
4.10. I wasn't budging! Stubborn, no just know what I wanted.
Well he said that it was getting late in the month and I was risking not being able to use the
loyalty coupon. (Bummer I was thinking, but the price I was paying I'm getting what I want).
Well after I was persistent about the rearend and he realized that I wasn't going for his truck, he said that he probably wasn't going to find me a truck from another dealer in time. Well I said try! or I'll go to another dealer and find one before the end of the month!
Its amazing what you can do when you try!
Low and behold I received a call a few days later and it wasn't the mailman!
It was the dealer who had mysteriously found a truck in the exact color that I really wanted!
The truck was a little more decked out that the first, and it cost me $800 more. Very well worth the extra cost!
Out the door with extended warranty with loyalty coupon was 27.5k. I was able to use the GMS program also, but I learned something during this
process.
If you are thinking about buying a y2k 4dr.check it for wind noise. The first truck did have wind noise.
Get the rearend that you want. 500 rpm diff. at 75mph. It adds up on a long trip!
Ask to see the invoice of the veh! I compared the
price of the invoice to carwizard. Very close, but the holdback and advertising was the majority of the difference in price.
Good luck to all the potential buyers and my truck only has 77 miles on it, but no wind noise and very good ride.
Be firm in your decisions with the dealer and when they see you are serious they will work with you.
Oh by the way how many dealer will hold a truck for u with only $20.00 down.
Im sure when someone came and offered him MRSP for my vehicle it hurt to say no!
a squeak in the rear springs when I first take off. Went to the dealer at about 12000 miles and they replaced they rear springs. The squeak started again in 3 days. Went back to the dealer and they said that they couldn't repair the problem. Said it was in in many Silverado's and said until Chevrolet comes up with a solution, there is nothing they could do. Dealer said problem was with bushings in rear springs. They tried lubricating everything, but that was no help. I have just logged in on this service. Anyone else have this problem?
The best way I've found to really search is to click "see all responses" then use the Edit Find feature of your browser to find a particular word. Also check the old Chevy Silverado topics in the Archives the same way.
Anyway..
Drop In bedliner....Several Brands "will do".
But the best Fit and function are Duraliners.
The GM/Chevy Liners are also a Duraliner.
They fit so much better...and don't warp and bow up like cheap ones. yeah they might be $300 instead of $140....But you get what you pay for.
The newest Duraliner i got is an under the rail.(my first under the rail) and it fits great.
There are no screws. To put it in...ya kinda push the sides together to make it narrow and slide it in...there are 4?? "tabs" kinda like that slip under the metal rail like and "snap" in..
Does that make sense?
if not I can post pics....
It doesn't warp or lose it's shape,sag or bow up in the floor.
it's also got a "grit" like built into the floor of the mold itself.
You can still slide stuff...but it also holds it in place....if that makes any sense??
Oh hell...just come over and see it over a beer!
LOL
Good Luck
- Tim
Richard
You won't find a 4 door 2500....cuz they haven't
made them yet.
-----------------------
Not true..mine has been shipped (heck, it's even been paid for!). It was built on the 16th and is on it's way!
You need to divide a mile (5280') by the tire circumference (8.3' for 265-16) and then multiply by the miles per hour (75 mph) then divide by 60 min/hr, multiply this by the axle ratio 3.73 or 4.10 and then multiply this by the overdrive ratio (~0.75). This gives you 2228.3 rpm with a 3.73 and 2450 with a 4.10. This matches what my tach reads very well.
Like the man says, get the axle you want and don' lose any sleep.
Richard
quadrunner500: I just read in the spring issue of GMC Direction that the 6.0 will have 330 hp and 370 ft lbs of torque. Still would want the Duramax.
Believe it when i see one though...
Good Luck
- Tim
Flowmaster: If you put one on your truck definately get a delta-flow. They have more baffles in it to reduce the interior resonance. When I did mine I started with a standard two-chamber. Way too loud; interior resonance was terrible. I took it back and had a delta-flow 70- series installed (no charge). The sound is good, minimal resonance. If I were to do it again I would get a delta-flow 50 series.
Still waiting on the Hypertech Power Programmer for the y2k. I really want to recalibrate the computer for the bigger tires.
Headers: I was entertaining the idea of putting headers on. Anyone have experience with them and their Silverado? What do you suggest, how difficult to install? Shops I have talked to have said JBA shorty's or Doug Thorley. I want ones that will produce the most low end torque. Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Kyle
The tire size can be calibrated by a dealer or anyone with a tech 2, scan tool. Ask the dealer about a price [non-permissible content removed] if the ask anymore then .3 of there shop rate it takes about 5 min.. to do. I myself and many others do it for free if we are already working on the truck. If you bring it in special for just the tire calibration yes ecspect to pay because the tech has to drop what he is doing to do yours and we get paid for what we do. blah blah
hypertech has never been cheap in the past and I have never seen anything to great out of them. If you do any of the hypertech engine controls reprograming your engine ALMOST always starts pinging. Then you need to use high octane fuel$$$
If you really want the extra power go with a turbo a supercharger. As for the exhaust and aircleaner mods ya you can gain a few more horsepower but not a enough that there is a real noticable gain. If you look at the writing on like K&N the gain is at the upper rpm range how often do you plan to run 5000rpm? I have driven trucks with the exhaust/mods and compared them to stock I see no noticable gain in take off or anything else, except better mpg.
HVAC air filter..
Dealer may remove the sticker for the air filter. Like I mentioned it is just to the right of the tunnel on the heater box. You need to remove the heater box lower cover to access it. Yuck they didn't make it real easy but it could be worse try an access the 4x4 module.
my two cents please don't start screaming about the air/exhaust mods do what makes you happy
Richard
Glad you decided to install the Granatelli. Coolwheels offered full refund but decided to keep it cause the bottomline is the seat of the pants improvement from the Granatelli MAF as compared to stock.
Hypertech III is supposed to be available either last week or this week for 2K Silverado. We'll see.
Dustyone
PS: Love my truck with 88 town miles (I just picked it up Thursday, was out of town Friday and Saturday). Looks like about 10 miles/gal in this big thing.
Ray T.
my '00 1500 z71 5.3 ext cab 4 dr has been getting about 14 mpg in local driving over the first 1000 miles. this weekend, i took it round trip about 325 miles or so, all highway driving, averaging between 65-80 mph. pulled down 17.5 mpg on that tank. very happy and impressed. of course, decent gas mileage isn't hard to get when you're barely turning 2000 rpms at 80 mph. hehehe. pics below, thanks to tim for posting them. hopefully i'll have more this weekend. if we have good weather, i'll get some wax on it. future accessories right now are limited to westin cps nerf bars and a spray-in liner. by the way, after a weekend without checking, 205 messages are just TOO many to read. congrats to the 2500 4 door guys who have been waiting. hope your trucks kick as much [non-permissible content removed] as mine does...later
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Kyles_00_Z71.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Kyles_00_Z71_2.jpg
200 posts wont go by if you dont spend so much time driving your truck take a break once and awhile your gonna wear it out.
Ryan
70MPH - 2350 RPM
75MPH - 2500 RPM
80MPH - 2650 RPM
Remember that the 2500 tranny is a .74 OD and the 1/2 is a .70 OD
Good Luck
- Tim
Checked engine air filter (have the extra deep one) and at 17,000 miles hardly any color. Put the old one back in, pressure gauge was about 1/4 the way to the change mark. Amazing how clean it still was as I drive dusty areas frequently. Had to replace filters on that damn 7.3L diesel every 6 months. Like the 4.8L air filter life.
Pulled the skidplates off, found 3 more zerk fittings on steering linkages to grease. Drained front Diff (13 and 15 mm plugs), fluid was milky green, figured had some water in there somehow. Replaced with Mobil1 gear lube. Drained manual transfer case, replaced with M1 ATF. Trans case fluid looked new, found some metal on the front diff drain magnet.
Gonna drain Manual Tranny and rear diff. Scared to run anything but GM's lubes for those two. Anybody know if there are compatability issues for the syncromesh tranny oil or the $23qt rear locker diff oil?
Steering much easier after lubing the extra grease fittings. Replacement of front skid plate was a little bit of a pain as somebody has tweaked it slightly ;o)
make that .75 for a 2500.
carwizard used to be .74....and they are usually pretty reliable..
- Tim
Ray T.
Kevin
Do a search here on header info. This is an excellant site for lots of great info.
As for the pinging after the HPP, a 160 degree t-stat is sposed to help that along with hi-octane.
I believe if you do pipes and headers first, the MAF has a better chance to show its results.
-scott
The tow/haul mode comes in real handy in the mountains for uphill. Since it disables the torque converter lockup, it provides little in the way of braking.
I have the HVAC filter in my 2k LS.
dmr3,
Yeak, I had to pay the additional for the 4th door. It was only $228 more (dealer cost). So far the only time I have noticed wind noise was when I didn't shut my door properly. Even coming back from Arkansas, thru Dallas last week with winds up to 60mph, I could hear the wind howling outside, but it wasn't getting thru the weatherstripping to the inside. The handling was rock solid in the wind.
Mike T.
Don't think the center seat arrangement would come into play at all. You almost end up just resting your head and neck on the floor. If you lay on your back, you will be too far towards the middle.
Sounds like the upscale rich guy truck models have a cosmetic plastic cover with three bolts holding it on, covering up the ugly HVAC ductwork.
Ryan
Ryan
Ray T.
Thanks in advance for anything you can suggest,
A 4X4 Silverado owner