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After a week to get the part, they put it in and the problem instantly reoccurred. They fixed it quickly and it seems to be ok now. At least they did provide a loaner car.
Has anyone else had this happen?
From all the blogs I've read, it's amazing how some simple repairs and prevention work turn into major disasters and failures.
Check the dealer out, for BBB and other complaints.
Do small stuff first, like oil changes with the shop.
Talk to the Service Department and look at service bays; do they have and attitude?, Does it looks unprofessional? Clean? Is it in kaos?
Post the name of the Repair Shop or Dealer that repaired your car. It's OK to blame the car for the problems, but blame the repair shop or dealer service if their main cause.
Here is the food chain:
GM comes up with a vehicle and pitches it to the dealers who've bought the franchise rights to buy X number of units. GM pays the manufacturer for the units they ordered for THEIR dealers AFTER THEY ARE BUILT. Dealers pay GM to buy those units...you the customer pays the dealer who already purchased the units. The unit now becomes dealer's problems..if, however, the problems are consistent with a majority of units then they notify GM and ask what's the solution to this problem which occurs frequently. If the problem is isolated to a couple of units then most likely the owner is doing something wrong.
i have read a little on other sites something about having some sort of transmission chip replaced?? i wonder if that has anything to do with it? do you have the brake and starter problem that i am having? thanks!!
good luck to you!!!
About your brakes vibrating...if you are mashing the brakes during high speed driving then you are warping your rotors. For that split moment you heat the rotor up and do not allow it to cool properly. Plus you may also have to have the front brake caliper bushngs replaced...there is a TSB on that too. If you HAVE to mash the brakes for some reason give yourself PLENTY of time for the rotors to cool down by driving a little farther without applying your brakes.
As for the starter still running after you turn key back to RUN...normal again. It is a electronic starter...this is in the event that you may someday install a remote start. Some remote starter systems have a timer added to it to monitor when the engine starts. If it doesn't start right away the remote will stop asking the starter to turn after maybe 4 or 5 seconds and then command to restart a second or two later.
Therefore, I am concluding that dealership should keep trying
He might be confusing the two.
You might consider going to a different dealer
About a month after I got it, it hesitated to start once. I turrned it off, waited about a minute and tried it again and it was fine. Then it seemed like it would do that about once a month or so.
Now that its colder out, it seems to be doing it alot more frequently.
Here's some of the things I've noticed:
- It doesn't do it on cold starts, it'll only do it if you drive it, turn it off for a short time (30 minutes or so) then try to start it. Even after it does this, if I drive it, then turn it off and try to start it right away it'll start perfectly fine.
- So it only appears to happen during a "cool down" period because it doesn't do it on a cold start or if you run it then shut it off then start it right away.
- I've tried the "wait for the 5 chimes" trick and sometimes that seems to help, sometimes it doesn't. I'll put the key in the ACC position, wait for the chimes, then try to start it.
- Instead of regular unleaded gas I've tried the middle-grade gas and for some reason it doesn't seem to do it as often, but this could just be a coincidence.
- I have a remote starter that was installed before I got the car and it seems to have this problem with the starter more than with the key. Like tonight I started it using the remote and it attempted 3 times and it wouldn't start. I got in it and used the key and it hesitated for a few seconds then finally started. I think the remote starter will only keep the starter engaged for so long before shutting it off whereas the key will let the starter run longer allowing it to turn over. I'm not sure if this can be changed with my remote starter or not. But either way, it still hesitated with the key.
Of course it doesn't happen all the time, and it never happens at the dealer.
Do you think I just need to replace my battery? Could it be the starter? The fuel pump? Or something else?
but, you are going to get them to fix the leak into the trunk right?
but also, as far as mileage, you need to be driving your vehicle a good distance, and you shouldn't be warming it up in the driveway for so long. failing to drive your vehicle a good distance and warming it up before driving are gonna be killers on MPG. worse, exclusively driving short distances isn't good for the vehicle long-term.
But you shouldn't have problems with that on a 2006.
You'll have to let me know if they actually fix the issue, and what it was. I'm hoping its nothing too expensive.
Treat it just like you would treat a radiator cap. It should be removed only when vehicle is cool.
This is not just a reservoir tank, but part of the whole cooling system.
It is called a "Coolant Surge Tank" which is part of the radiator's cooling system.
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out an burn you badly. Please use Caution!
Normally in a closed cooling system there are no odors.
If this cap is loose or if there is a leak somewhere, loose heater hose clamp, surge tank clamp, or bad core, then the odor will be present.
I opened my "Coolant Surge Tank" when my Nox was COOL and had no significant odor. Coolant does have odor when hot and when it leaks.
I believe people are opening this cap under pressure and hot coolant gases are blown out of the Surge Tank and that is what they smell.
My Equinox was built in 1/05 and I bought it new. I have the original coolant and hoses with 20,000 miles. My hoses have not deteriated and color is still good.
Prior to Jan 2005, GM were putting these sealant tablets in the coolant which was causing the antifreeze to turn brown and black.
From past blogs the smell is usally evident when Surge Tank is open Hot, cracked tank, or leaking heater unit inside the vehicle.
I've also kept in touch with GM dealers about this issue, the complaints are few and far between.
My Nox is no different than other Nox's built after Jan 1, 2005.
I have an 06 Equinox that I purchased with 10000km on it. This is my first winter with the AWD.
I now notice that when the front wheels break loose in sno and the rear wheels engage that a loud grinding (ratcheting) noise comes from 1 of the rear wheels (the one that's not engaged).
I brought the machine to dealer who tells me this is normal. I've never heard of any rear end that would sound like this... and it only makes noise on the RR wheel.
Can anybody provide input on this?
Thanks
Jim
Today’s coolants are more environmentally friendly and less toxic than the older tried and true green antifreeze.
The auto makers are pressured more and more to use environmentally friendlier fluids at the sacrifice of your engine!
So if you have a problem with your cooling system, like leaks somewhere, and this new environmentally friendly coolant is exposed to air from the leak, it will break down.
The result is loss of protection for your engine.
As far as the environmentalist are concern, the destruction of you engine is a small price to pay for saving our world.
You also can not use Dexcool for long-term storage of you Nice or Classic GM vehicle, it will break down in long-term storage. Dexcool fine for an every day driver, not a once in a long while driver.
Also make sure that these "Quick Oil Change" places are adding the correct antifreeze to you vehicle.
If they mistakenly add the green stuff, your cooling system may gel and plug up!
Keep an eye on those guys, and only let them touch your oil. (You get what you pay for.)
If you want to change antifreeze, that’s fine, warranty may be void. Do some research on these other antifreezes before you change, because more harm than good, could be done.
GM vehicles are designed for Dexcool. Prestone (orange) is also good stuff.
Mixing different types (not brands)of antifreeze together could cause problems.
If you have low level, leaks, color change, then fix the problem right away.
Always stick with one TYPE of Antifreeze after a thorough flush.
Like I said if there are no leaks and the color is fine, you should be good to go. :shades:
Here are some links:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052601a.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/dexcool.html