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In laymans terms this means, the transmisstion temparture is SHARED with the engine. In this way, any heat generated in the xmission is disapated out thru the radiator.
(Some xmissions have their own seperate cooling system....)
With this said, I would expect that using a plug-in engine-heater would also tend to warm the xmission once the engine is started and the fluid starts to flow.
Typically I put on between 30-35K miles a year, and I've had the car a bit over a year now. I spoke with the dealer about the 40K service, they said the DSG fluid alone was roughly $350! I think the total would run in the 700 range... :mad:
Not sure exactly where your damage is, but if it's the grill unit, it comes out in about 2 min.
However, the guy only sells the ones for cars with the front license plate.
Replacement is a piece of cake - go on eurotuner's website for step-by-step instructions. All you need is a philips screwdriver and T20 torx bit/screwdriver.
Edmunds TMV shows pricing about 400 dollars below MSRP for a base Jetta TDI which sounds about right to me for average. Maybe you can buy one for right at invoice or a little above some dealers. An invoice deal would be about another 900 dollars off.
The speedometer dial also does not have speed markings in km/hr, which I think is strange too. I can convert between mph and km/hr without difficulty, but what does VW expect American Jetta drivers who can't do the math in their heads do when they drive their Jettas to Canada or Mexico? Isn't this a potential safety issue for such drivers?
Does anyone have a 2010/recent-year-model Jetta with equal-interval markings and markings in both units on their speedometer dial?
http://www.vw.com/jetta/gallery/en/us/#/interior/0/
The Jetta, does not seem to have this feature. Nothing that I could find in the owner's manual anyway.
I purchased a brand new 09 Jetta SW TDI from Danbury CT and i am writing this post for advice about my mileage. I am only getting 37.2 mpg and after talking to numerous new model TDI owners that are supposedly getting 42 mpg i am reaching out for help. Some facts
1- I've tried several different brands of diesel but routinely goto the same Sunoco station and same pump
2- I commute 90% highway miles at speeds of 60 mph and keep the rpms below 2k
3- I have a 6 speed and keep it in sixth for the entire trip
4- I have the Contisport OEM tires on the 5 spoke 17" rims. I've been checking the pressure at fill ups.
5- I have 15,500 miles on the car and the tires were rotated and balance checked(i know alittle much here)
6- I eco-drive and accelerate slowly to the chagrin of other motorists.
Like i previously said i'm only getting 37 mpg and i dont know if this is normal or if something is off. The car has just broken in and runs awesome. I opted for the Nav system which was a good choice. Any advice from any of you veteran diesel owners will be much appreciated Ben F Westchester NY
On slight uphills (when you don't downshift) you may have it in 6th gear but your actual MPG drops due to the high torque of that engine. You may not feel the need to downshift but if you do, you can get a better MPG.
If you keep the "light" foot (on gas pedal) and shift to neutral on downhill grades, you may get an increased MPG reading. Cruise control has to be off to get the best MPG, especially on up-and down-hill terrain.
This is my personal experience with 09 Tdi SW with 10 K on it.
I would try driving different. Accelerate normally and adjust your speed a little. A diesel will burn more fuel if you're lugging the motor as opposed to operating in the power band. I never noticed much difference between driving normal (which was more aggressive than what you're describing) and flat out flogging it.
You may not see optimal gas mileage until well into the 30k-50k mile range. Especially if you baby the thing. Best way to kill a VW is to drive it like a Buick. YMMV. :P
You may have noticed that when car magazines do longterm testing of fuel-efficient cars, and keep careful logs, they never match the top mileages reported in more anecdotal references.
i agree you may be lugging the engine. think about 5th gear for your low speeds (60).
shifting to neutral causes nonzero fuel use. stay in gear with foot off accelerator if you want to use zero fuel instead.
also i concur that flogging the TDI does not reduce its mpg, at least not for me. I floor my 06 5-spd TDI early and often, such as every time i enter the highway. it gets a solid 42 mpg winter, 44 mpg summer. calculating the mpg for it has gotten boring - it's quite consistent.
a few times i kept speeds below 70 for the whole tank and got 49 mpg.
The best, in my opinion, is to switch the on-board computer display to show MPG and you could see how "light" your foot is on the gas pedal and if to down-shift or not..if you really want to achieve the maximum MPG.... .in a gas engine it's a simple vacuum gauge - not sure, what it is in Tdi engine...
I also test the red-line once in a while to "lubricate" the turbo....some of the drivers next to me (red-to green light) seem to under-estimate what a wagon can do...is it also called "road rage" perhaps? Main thing, I was told while living in So. Calif., is to avoid eye contact!
with the 5-spd TDI, 50 mph is the lowest speed where I try 5th gear - usually 60 mph is better. It lugs in 5th at 50 mph but is ok for downhill or gently maintaining-speed.
For the 6-spd, I'm not sure what the optimal shiftpoints might be, but checking the dashboard display at "steady-state" in 5th vs 6th is a good way to find out - maybe using cruisecontrol on a flat/mostly-empty road.
I think the mpg-meter on the TDI operates by counting "fuel injector pulses" or something like that.
Indeed it is funny to sometimes surprise other drivers by "freight-training" them with a TDI - especially going uphill... (It means "pulling away fast" in the ls2gto forum.)
Lugging is about the worst thing one can do to an engine--puts a great strain on it.
Is it a known fact that they get less mileage? I have been looking at 2010 sedans and most of them with sunroof and automatics come with 17" wheels I think I read they are more to replace?? But I want to find out about mileage too.
I do not average above 40 mpg on trips less than 20 miles.
For the information you have provided, I would expect 40 mpg or more for the style of driving you describe. My driving is more agressive and I have higher mpg with fewer mile on my TDI.
No, no, NO, Never -ever "idle the engine" while the vehicle is moving forward. This will consume MORE fuel. This truth holds for any modern fuel-injected engine. (Gasoline and Diesel)
FACT: The onboard computer turns off the fuel-injection anytime the roadspeed exceeds the requested speed of the throttle-pedal. This means when the you have your foot off the throttle and the vehicle is 'coasting' down a long hill, There is ZERO fuel being injected. The weight of the vehicle is keeping the engine turning.
HOWEVER: If you put in neutral and allow the engine to idle down the same hill, you are burning fuel keeping the engine idling.
This feature of the computer to turn off the injection can be used to your advantage to improve overall MPG. One simple way is to keep the engine in gear as long as possible while decellerating to a stop....push the clutch only after the engine RPM gets down to the idle-speed. This will turn off all fuel-injection to the last possible moment.
Also, during these winter months, Diesel fuel is premixed with kerosene to keep it from gelling. The addition of kerosene to the fuel reduces the amount of energy per gallon of fuel.
Additionally, cold weather really cuts back on MPG. Your engine takes much longer to get up to its most efficent running temparature.
Heck... My TDI usually gets over 750 miles per tank of fuel... but the combo of cut-fuel and cold ambient temps has reduced me to a lowly ~680 Miles per tank.
With only 15K miles on your engine, you should be focusing on proper BREAK-IN of your engine to promote high MPG in the future. There have been many write-ups explaining the driving-habits which can promote well-sealed piston-rings thus a high MPG engine.
I'm thinking that a bigger tire won't rotate as often as a smaller one, the recorded distance would be shorter, and therefore the mileage would be perceived as being lower?
Examples
15" wheels could have 195/65-15 giving nominal diameter at tread of 25.0"
16" wheels could have 215/55-16 giving nominal diamater at tread of 25.3"
17" wheels could have 225/45-17 giving nominal diameter at tread of 25.0"
On many websites (e.g. tirerack.com) you have a calculator so that you can figure out the wheel/tire/diameter ratios when you are shopping for larger or smaller tires/rims, to keep the original configuration.
As you stated, the speedo reads the rpm of the output of the transmission. (On some vehicles the sensor reads the rpm of a drive shaft, which is locked to the output of the tranny.) But if larger diameter tires are substituted (larger at the tread giving larger circumference), then the vehicle will travel a longer distance for each revolution of the tranny output shaft. Therefore the true speed will be larger than the speedo indicates.
TIRE SIZE SUBSTITUTION CALCULATOR
A bit larger tire can get you a ticket if you push your speed to the max.
It's lighter and there's less parasitic power loss. You should also notice faster shifting and better fuel economy than a slushbox.
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The above was copied from the article you provided a link to(I provided the bolding). Not quite sure I understand. Is it heavier or not? I'm not sure I would take a lot of what the author says as gospel when he says the direct opposite in two paragraphs.
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m6user,
I just glanced through the article you quoted. No need to be down on the author as it looks like you are misreading his text. The answer to your confusion is right in the two paragraphs (above) that you copied and pasted. Just look a bit closer. :P You are quoting one comparison to a slushbox (standard automatic tranny) and another quote comparing the DSG to a manual transmission. The DSG is heavier than a manual tranny and is lighter than a slushbox. The author is correct in that regard.
Nothing a little attention to detail can't clear up. Ha.
However, it is always better to maintain the OUTSIDE diamater of the tires as close as possible to OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). Usually, when larger wheels are fitted, the rubber sidewall is thinner thus the OUTSIDE diamater remains the same.