There is every reason why the '06 Sonata should do well in crash tests: all-new design, 6 airbags, Hyundai has learned from past gaffes on crash tests, and they have too much riding on the new Sonata to have it get anything but solid test scores. But you never know. If it is that important to you, maybe you should go with a known quantity. You can easily make up the $1500 in resale value, unless you plan on keeping the car for a long time.
I don't know what exterior color you are looking for but if you want leather you will have to get the LX or go after market with the GLS. As for the wheels on the LX, the dealer will probably swap them for you with out a hassle and just put them on a GL and charge a little more.. Since the tires are about the same diameter you will not need to have the speedometer re calibrated. You will be adding more sidewall and losing rim size and vice versa.
With the LX you will be gaining more features than the leather seats... You will be gaining heated seats and I think that the digital A/C controls and Outside temp only come on the LX.. I am not sure about that..
Not exactly $101 over invoice. According to Edmunds.com, invoice is $22,839. The Buy-it-Now price is $23,440. Looks like an advertising fee or something else in there.
No, the '06 is a complete redesign. The '05 had only front and front side airbags. The '06 adds side curtains. Plus the older Sonata debuted in 1998, long before the IIHS side impact test was designed.
But to get heated seats one needs leather. The only other alternative is to use protein leather (synthetic) like GM does or use a special fabric for heated seats like Volvo. That adds expense. ,to the manufacturer.
This is true (the leather interior) with the 2006 Sonata, but not true with other marques. I bought a new 1985 SAAB 900 in April 1985 with heated seats, and it had the standard velour interior. According to the SAAB manufacturers rep, the material was not of a special design. And, the seats after over 20 years of service show very little wear, as does the remainder of the interior except for the cracked dash pad and a droopy headliner (easily replaced) - both typical SAAB 900 maladies.
We've been looking at a 2006 Sonata, and am trying to convince my wife to go with the LX, but she's never liked leather seats. Too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter . . .
The leather gets hot, but not unbearable due the solar glass; the car cools down pretty fast. My car is parked in the sun all day. Open the doors for a minute to let the heat out and you're good to go.
The '05 Sonata GLS Special Value has cloth seats and heated seats. The special value has exverything the LX has except leather seats and power driver seat. Heated seats were a $200 option on the '05 LX but standard on the Special Value.
Does anyone know if it is possible to get features installed on a vehicle after purchase? I don't need a V6 and really don't like leather seats (I live in Georgia), but am a gadget freak and would love the Homelink rearview mirror, automatic climate control, etc.
I am still waiting in Toronto, Canada for delivery of my V6 (silver) with Leather. The dealer says he is unable to provide any kind of estimate as to how long it will take. Is there any information as to what is causing the delay. I have only been waiting for two weeks and I am looking forward to receiving delivery -----the car is truly spectacular. I am however interested in finding out the reasons for the delay and the expected time for delivery.
In the USA dealers get what Hyundia sends them; you really can't order from the factory. The dealer will see if other dealers have what you want; then he must negotiate a trade. Is it the same in Canada??
What are the latest stats from owners on gas mileage on the V6, and what does the trip computer start at when reset after re fueling. My last tankful was about 17 miles per gallon, a combo of city and highway diving. I have almost 1000 miles on my LX. My dealer says about 2000 miles to see an improvement.
Another thing is the trip computer average mph readout. It seems to average around 22, I know I'm going faster than that. How has others found it to be?
I live in London,Ontario.We have been waiting almost 7 weeks for Silver with leather,Just this week we found out that there was a paint quality problem with the Pearl White and Silver colours.We just finally got our serial number which confirms the vehicle is in production.We have waited this long ,a few more weeks for this great car is no problem.
Our order is from Ontario,Canada and after a 61/2 week wait they had to phone the factory to see if our car was in production.They got a serial number which means it is now somewhere in production,which means they obviously place orders . Our dealer has several on order and many standard style units have come and gone while we waited.We have been offered a alternate colour,but we will wait for the Crystal Silver.We have had enough of the dark colours that get dirty all too quickly and take too much up keep. This car is awesome and is worth the wait!
Had a trip computer on my previous car. Took some getting to used to to realize a few things. If you're looking at average MPG, remember when you are slowing down you are decreasing your average MPH. When accelerating you don't increase average MPH until you are going faster than the average since your last reset. Every second that you are stopped (traffic light, whatever) is "zero Mph." Don't trust the computer? Do some math yourself. Go on a three mile trip. At 30 MPH that should take you 6 minutes, right? Now start your car, back out of the garage, etc., wait to merge into traffic, stop at stop signs/lights and you'll find that that 3 mile trip will probably take 8 to 10 minutes depending of traffic & other driving conditions.
The same principle applies to average MPG. Wife had an '88 LeBaron Turbo. At first I thought she was too heavy on the foot, but I was wrong. She's get gas 7/10's mile from home. 1/2 mile of that is up a steep winding hill. If I got in the car and headed in the other direction and drove 5 or 6 miles the average MPG would almost double.
The trip computer is giving you the actual measurement since it was reset and includes all the time the engine is running, even if you are stopped. Don't got by one tank of gas, or even 2. Look at it over at least 2 tanks. My '05 Sonata doesn't have trip computer & I miss it...however it has many more features than my previous car.
Another aspect to consider with the fuel mileage computer is that if it isn't reset each and every time you refill the tank it will slowly stop updating its reading. I have found that these readouts on previous cars have been very accurate. Also, average speed and average gas mileage is exactly that, an average. As someone else has said when you are in stop (0-MPG) and go traffic your mileage is at its worst. If you spend 40-to- 60% of your driving time in city conditions then hit the interstate and cruise at 70 it will take a while for the fuel average to creep upwards. On the other hand if you fill up prior to entering the interstate and hit cruising speed quickly watch the numbers spiral upwards. Same for speed, every second you spend at slow speeds drags the average down and even if you then go 70 for a while your average may only be 55. So even if you think you have been going faster(and you have) the time spent at 30-or so drags down the overall average
About two weeks ago I walked into a Hertz looking for a cheap weekend rental. For $5 more per day I upgraded from a Focus to the Sonata GLS V6. Amazing! I was thrilled with the car and now I'm in the market for one. The Hertz had six Sonatas delivered that week and I got the last one. Now, each time I drive past, I look for them. They're always out!! Meanwhile, a few Mustangs sit on the lot...
I wasn't expecting a barn burner from the 4cyl engine however, I travel 160 miles per day, mostly all highway, and I am getting 24/26 MPG vs. the 33 on the sticker and all Hyundai's advertising literature. I have an older 6cyl 2000 Toyota Avalon with close to 100K miles, a much nicer and certainly more comfortable vehicle, it averages 27 MPG doing the same trip day in and day out. I was willing to sacrifice a little comfort for the promise of much better gas mileage and not only am I disappointed in the mileage, the seating is very n-supportive. I realize that I am much bigger then many people however, my wife is an average sized women and she also dislikes the seating. Unfortunately, you don't find these things out when you take the car for a ten minute test drive; I hope this information helps others who are 6' 3" or more who spend 3 hours a day in a car. I can't comment on the reliability of the vehicle since it only has 2650 miles on it. I have taken back my Avalon from my wife and I am strongly considering selling the car outright since the dealer offered to buy it back at a substantial discount. I originally called the dealer service department thinking that something was mechanically wrong and the person who took my call asked what the nature of my problem was; before I could finish she commented “Hyundai’s are know to be gas hogs”. That didn’t do a lot to assure me that I was going to get a satisfactory answer. I did eventually get to someone within the service department and he said there aren’t any adjustments they could make and you are just going to have to live with it. I then contacted Hyundai’s national customer service and they said their isn't anything they can do, the car has to break in a little more and perhaps it's the gas I am using or the driving conditions...To this I say BULL!!!
I was replying to denp44 trying to explain how a trip computer averages things.
But it does seem your MPG is low. My '05 2.7L V6 got 28 MPH in 1300 strictly highway miles (except for about 3 miles to stop overnight). That's where I stopped calculating "highway miles". The car only had 28 miles on it when the trip began. I filled the tank, on the highway 60 miles from home and another 200+ miles locally. I think that tank of gas gave me something like 21 or 22 MPG (would have to check records at work). If your daily drive is only 20% local, that will significantly affect your MPG.
It's not bull. Hyundai engines (like many others) do get better fuel economy after they have some miles on them. But driving on the highway at moderate speeds and no stops should return more than 24-26 mpg on that car. I got 25 mpg on the V6 Sonata driving on suburban streets, with some stops, 35-40 mph. The real idiot is the person at the dealer who said, "Hyundais are known to be gas hogs." I wonder how that person continues to keep her job there.
Overwhelming majority of the posts are from people who bought a V6, I just got my l4 Sonata two days ago and I love it. It has plenty of power for me and it drives like a dream. I am interested in hearing from other l4 owners about their experiences. What gas mileage are you getting?
Just got I4 too last Sunday and it has 420 miles on it. First pump came out about 28 mpg. I think it will be better after break-in. For $15,998, it has everything that i needed. Most of all, ABS brake on this thing is a monster. I never own a car stop this good. My wife's Acura MDX feels like need twice more distance to stop at same speed. New 2.4L engine has decent power for the size too. Definitely it's better engine than old 2.4L engine on my 2000 Sonata. I still want to find out official 0 to 60 seconds of I4, but no reviews tell me that (V6 came out 7.0 second the best). Let me know if you find it. Enjoy your new-70% off priced Lexus-Camcord killer-future king of family sedan-SONATA.
DARN IT! I'm picking up the rental for my two one week trips in 4 hours... and I bet I'll get a Malibu, Focus, or MAYBE a PT Cruiser. The dealers here had said the Sonata isn't yet in the rental market... that it was too new for them to have filled fleet orders.
Hi all. I need a little advice. I am trying to decide whether to take a bit of a financial hit to upgrade to a new Sonata. Actually, the money is not really a problem. I just don't know if the new Sonata is good enough to give up my car after only having it about a year.
I currently have a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback. The other day while I was at the dealer getting an oil change, I started looking at the new Sonatas and was really impressed. I am thinking about trading up. My Elantra is a five speed and is fairly sporty with nimble handling. I do get good gas mileage around town (26 - 28mpg) but have the wheel shimmy problem and a bit of a smelly air conditioner.
Frankly, I am a bit tired of shifting all the time and would like something I could easily give to my daughter when she starts driving in four years. I especially like all the safety features of the new Sonata from that point of view. I also wouldn't mind something a bit bigger and safer to drive in the meantime.
Part of my current indecision is that my Elantra is worth at least $2000 less than I owe on it. I am thinking about getting an 06 Sonata GLS with the four cylinder. I test drove one and thought it was pretty nice, if very different from the Elantra. I think I could get used to it very quickly.
I know I can get $2000 off the MSRP of $19900 and will probably be able to get at least another $1000 off after shopping around at the four or five Hyundai dealers in the area. I think after factoring TT&L and the amount I am behind on a trade, I would probably be right back at the MSRP.
I read good things about the new Sonata on this board. Do those of you who own one think it is a good deal even at the MSRP? I obviously know first hand about lousy Hyundai resale value, but do we think the new Sonata will be better in this regard? Actually, I usually keep cars for a long time. Should I be concerned about buying a brand new car with lots of new components, including the engine?
Oh, one more question? Does anyone own that deep blue color? I think I like that color but am a bit undecided. I really thought it was black sitting on the dealer's lot.
I posted improperly and for that I am sorry.I will repost accordingly...but I still stand that it is easy to be an imposter on the internet and make unusual comments that can start a lot of nonsense and I do realize thats its the duty of the Edmunds folks that run this site to sort that out before it gets too far.I will keep to the rules and try my best to be a positive poster in this forum....now for the reviews and yes I like the new Sonata :P http://www.auto123.com/en/info/news/roadtest,view,Hyundai.spy?artid=45920&pg=1 http://cars.ign.com/articles/641/641527p1.html
Has anyone sprung for the $199 lease deal on the Sonata GLS? If so, could you please provide some details, e.g. mileage allowance, down payment and other cash paid up front, residual value, term (ads say 36 months), and equipment level (I assume it's the no-options GLS but just checking). I may have the need in the near future to get another car, for a new job, and the Sonata is high up on my list, especially if I am forced to get a large car by my employer. If I can get a smaller car, I'd be tempted to get the Sonata for my wife and kids' daily commuter (because of all the safety equipment and room) and use my wife's Elantra GT.
On the Chrysler I had, two buttons had to be pressed at the same time to re-set. A plastic clip, or something, busted on one of them so I stopped switching between the various setting displays (av. MPG, current MPG, miles to empty, etc.) However, they all continued to work. After several thousand miles since being reset, the av MPH didn't change because it was an "average." If I went 10,000 miles averaging 18.2 MPG it would take a lot of miles at higher or lower MPG to change the "average."
Hi. I am just curious if anyone know what the basics are of the maintenance schedules for the new Sonata, specifically the four cylinder engine? I saw somewhere that it has a timing chain, so that is good on the maintenance budget. What are the recommended intervals for oil changes and transmission fuel changes? Several other manufacturers have really worked on the maintenance needs of their vehicles and I am wondering how Hyundai is progressing on this front with the new Sonata.
I really cannot understand several items addressed in this post: #1..that you think Hyundai "promises" you will get the 33 MPG on the EPA ESTIMATED mileage part of the sticker. The EPA derives these estimates using limited drive time on any car and many...if not most cars will not get those estimated numbers. #2..you are unwilling to even break the car in before #3...being ready to sell it back. Yes it is true Hyundai's seem to get much better mileage after putting on four even five or more thousands of miles. I have seen this noted on everything from Santa Fe owner sites to Elantras. #4..How is it possible to compare Toyota's premier car that sold for the upper $20K range when new..the Avalon to a $17 or $18 K car in comfort and "niceness" Duh. You seem to have a Toyota state of mind and probably should have bought a Prious if gas economy is foremost in your list of needs. I expect you could have saved yourself the raised blood pressure of calling everyone in the Hyundai chain of command complaining about this "low" gas economy because this vehicle will probably return something near 30-31 or so in due time. Save everybody the trouble and buy a Prious as it seems you will never be satisfied with this car.
Yes it is true Hyundai's seem to get much better mileage after putting on four even five or more thousands of miles. I have seen this noted on everything from Santa Fe owner sites to Elantras
I can second that. I have an 04 Sonata LX and an 05 Tucson LX AWD and both got lousy gas mileage until they had around 4-5K miles on them. They both now are near the original EPA estimates, which is fine by me. Given the fallacy that is the EPA mileage estimates, any person that relies on those figures and expects to get them in the real world better think again. Those numbers have always been so unreliable that even the EPA now acknowledges that they need to revise their testing procedures so that the numbers will reflect real-world driving habits.
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This is not unusual, since real-world conditions frequently differ from those in laboratory tests, which are strictly controlled so that the results can be used to compare the fuel economy of different vehicles:
No laboratory test can simulate all driving conditions and driving styles. Trip length, traffic conditions, terrain, temperature, and weather all affect fuel economy. In addition, fast acceleration and heavy braking, driving at high speeds, carrying extra weight, using cargo racks, using electrical accessories, and using 4-wheel drive reduce fuel economy.
Vehicle maintenance can affect fuel economy. Test vehicles are typically in optimum condition. Fuels vary in energy content. Oxygenated and reformulated gasoline contains less energy per volume, and gasoline composition varies seasonally. Small differences due to vehicle manufacturing and assembling can cause differences in fuel economy. New vehicles don’t attain maximum fuel economy until they’re “broken in,” usually around 3-5 thousand miles.
Laboratory Tests vs. Real-World MPG
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This can be caused by any of several factors related to driving conditions and driver behavior, vehicle maintenance, fuel characteristics, and vehicle-related factors:
It is impossible for laboratory tests to simulate all driving conditions and driver behavior
EPA tests are designed to simulate “typical” city and highway driving conditions, but they cannot simulate all possible driving conditions and every person's driving style. The following driver behavior and driving condition factors can affect fuel economy:
*
Quick acceleration and heavy braking reduces fuel economy by as much as 33 percent at highway speeds and 5 percent around town. EPA tests do not account for this kind of vigorous driving. *
Driving at higher speeds increases aerodynamic drag (wind resistance) and reduces fuel economy. The EPA test accounts for aerodynamic drag up to highway speeds of 60 mph, but drivers often exceed this speed. *
Cargo or cargo racks on top of your vehicle (e.g., cargo boxes, canoes, etc.) can increase aerodynamic drag and lower fuel economy. Vehicles are not tested with additional cargo on the exterior. *
Excessive idling decreases average mpg. The EPA city test includes idling, but drivers that experience more idling can experience lower MPG. *
Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight can decrease fuel economy. Vehicles are assumed to carry three hundred pounds of passengers and cargo. *
Running electrical accessories (e.g., air conditioner) decreases fuel economy. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce MPG by roughly 5 to 25 percent compared to not using it. *
Cold weather and frequent short trips can reduce fuel economy, since your engine doesn't operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature. *
Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground. *
Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases crankcase losses.
Vehicle Maintenance
A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel, so fuel economy will suffer if it is not in tune. Improperly aligned or inflated tires can lower fuel economy, as can a dirty air filter or brake drag.
Fuels Vary in Energy Content
A vehicle's fuel economy depends on the energy content of the fuel on which it runs—this has been determined by EPA and others and is consistent with combustion theory. The use of oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1-3%) in fuel economy. In addition, the energy content of gasoline varies from season to season. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.
Inherent Variations in Vehicles
Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.
New Vehicles
New vehicles will not obtain their optimal fuel economy until the engine has broken in. This may take 3-5 thousand miles.
Yes both engines(V-6 & 4 cylinder) now have a timing chain. The rest of the intervals for maintenance are about on par with the rest of the industry. Nothing much to do except oil/oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and the very occasional coolant change (which virtually everybody ignores) and a transmission fluid change at something around 100,000 miles or so. With the addition of a timing chain the 60K belt change has been eliminated for a savings of roughly $400.00
"Nothing much to do except oil/oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and the very occasional coolant change (which virtually everybody ignores) and a transmission fluid change at something around 100,000 miles or so. With the addition of a timing chain the 60K belt change has been eliminated for a savings of roughly $400.00"
You're all too correct about how most owners ignore their cooling system's needs. Hyundai not much help, only recommending a "quality ethylene glycol antifreeze" suitable for "aluminum engine parts" - not very specific. The recommended changeout is at 2 years/30,000 miles - which suggests to me that Hyundai's still filling their cars with conventional silicated (the older, general purpose "Prestone" type that's no longer available except as private store brand in the U.S.) antifreeze. Last September just a few weeks shy of 2 years on my '03 MY Sonata V6, I decided to go ahead and change it out. The factory-fill coolant drained cloudy - not a good thing, but no scale, either. However, subsequent refills with distilled water, warm-up idling and drains showed no further turbidity or any scale expulsion. In other words, I think I got to it in time. Once there was no fuirther tell-tale leftover green dye marker in my repeated distilled water flushes and drains, I refilled with one of the extende-life, non-silicated antifreezes (Wal-Mart "SuperTech" brand supplied by Prestone) that claims 5-yr./150,000 mile working life. So far, at not quite 1 year, it's remained perfectly tranparent and green. (This is actually an unadvertised DEX-COOL "clone", but without the GM logo and licensing expense added to the selling price.) Unless there're any indications that the cooling system's stressed, or the color or transparency changes, I will change out again at three years from its installation or 50,000 miles just out of my conservatively cautious nature.
As to the notion of Hyundai's moving to a real timing chain replacing the previous kevlar-reinforced belt, keep in mind that most of that $400.00 belt replacement cost is in the form of shop labor charges. Also keep in mind that chains can and do break - often with catastrophic consequences as the broken chain thrashes around unmercifully. Finally consider that the water pumps on these engines are hidden behind a front cover that has to be removed, the timing chain (or belt in applicable designs) has to be removed, all before the water pump can be accessed for inspection or replacement in the event of a bearing seal failure. Silicates used in prior antifreeze products, and subject to falling out of solution as hard precipitates, are notoriously harsh on water pump seals - the reason why GM, Honda, Toyota, and Nissan went exclusively to non-silicated, extended-life antifreeze formulations seven or eight years ago. Ford and Chrysler still use a form of silicated antifreeze (Zerex "G-05", but labled and dyed differently for the two car makers), but with the silicate content seriously reduced. In short, I suspect that 60,000 mile service will still be just about as expensive, but for different reasons. Hindsight being 20/20, I recommend that buyers of these new Hyundai Sonatas, I4 or V6, seriously consider having the factory coolant flushed and replaced with a non-silicated or G-05 antifreeze as initial preventive maintenance - and take with a grain of silicate the notion that any antifreeze formulation should be left in the engine for a full 5 years or 150,000 miles.
While Hyundai recommends ATF drain and replacement at 100,000 miles under "normal" service, the company does recommend that service at 30,000 miles under "severe" conditions. Unless the owner lives in a dust-free area, devoid of hilly terrain, doesn't operate the car in urban stop-'n-go driving, and is blessed with ambient temperatures at or below 85 degrees year 'round, he or she would also be advised to figure on replacing the ATF every 30,000 miles. I know - ain't gonna happen. Probably the principal reason Hyundai dealerships are rife with transaxle shipping cases to return the "cores" to Hyundai's national AT service shop for rebuilding . . .
A thought on going 3 years/50k before your next coolant change: you might want to stay to the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. The car will still be under warranty in 3 more years, and you don't want to give Hyundai any reason to be able to challenge a warranty claim, e.g. "problem with water pump, and owner didn't perform scheduled maintenance."
You do raise a good point, backy. Darn it. On the other hand, deep pockets Wal-Mart would be liable for damage their Prestone-supplied syrup failed to protect against. Hmmm . . . Decisions, decisions. At only $5.84/gallon, doing a changeout a year earlier than originally intended wouldn't be that much of a labor or expense ordeal, either. Ideally, at some point in the not too distant future, a benignly flexible Hyundai will issue a TSB to the effect of extending the coolant changeout schedule on all aluminum-engined Hyundai vehicles if an extended-life antifreeze is used as service fill. (Yeah - and I believe in Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and the Tooth Fairy, too . . . )
We have a 03 Elantra that my wife drives and a 06 Sonata which I use. I much prefer the Sonata over the Elantra. It is much better on the highway, holds the road great. I traded in an 02 Sonata, and there is a big difference in handling. I have the Dark Cinnamon LX. I got mine for dealer invoice. There were no rebates at that time. I have had mine since the 21st of June.
Since you have had the new Sonata for a reasonable amt.of time,how would you rate it overall?How is your gas mileage in city and highway.Whats your pros and cons? I am still waiting for our new V6 and liked everything we saw ,but we only got a couple test drives and were happy to that point. Please tell us your feelings on this new car. Thanks in advance.
Real life MPG won't be like the sticker. My wife's Acura MDX is same too. I'm getting 13.5 MPG on average driving. Sticker MPG shows 17-24MPG. I thought maybe dirty air filter. Oil Can Henry guys told me it's brand new clean. My nephew in New Jersey has Brand new 2005 MDX with 5000 miles on it, gets 14 MPG too. On the other hand, on my SONATA, I put 215 more miles since last fill up and half gas tank remaining. I expect 28 MPG this time too.
Hyundai has an interesting TSB out about the 2006 Sonata's power door locks that owners may find interesting. It's identified as: TSB 05-90-006.
"DESCRIPTION:
The 2006 Model Year Sonata contains an Auto Door Lock feature to automatically lock all doors at a predetermined speed. This feature can be enabled or disabled and the operating range (locking speed) can be adjusted using the Hi-Scan tool.
NOTE: The Auto Door Lock feature setting is 'disabled' from the factory."
Any Hyundai dealer is equipped to re-program the factory default setting to one of four vehicle speeds at which the power door locks will be activated. However, this procedure is not a warranty service - the owner may be obligated at the whim of the dealer to pay the dealer's minimum shop labor charge to activate a factory supplied feature of the car.
Your right! Hyundai Engines need more time for Break-In. I never got more than 22 MPG on my 2000 Sonata until 50,000 miles on it. After 50,000 miles I was getting about 26 MPG. I think Hyundai engines are so tight, it don't get loose until 50,000 miles. After 5 years and 63,000 miles on it, my 2000 Sonata was still runs like the day I bought it.
"The 06 Sonata 3.3 coolant change is recommended at 60,000 miles or 5 years."
Thanks for the heads-up, denp44! Apparently Hyundai has finally gone to a long-life antifreeze for initial fill. If you have a 2006 Sonata, would you mind looking up in your owner's manual whether Hyundai has any specific antifreeze recommendation and posting back? (The Japanese "big three" each have their own proprietary antifreeze available through their respective dealers - I'm just curious to find out whether Hyundai has embarked on the same path to a high-profit $20.00/gallon OEM coolant, too.) TIA!
"the water pumps on these engines are hidden behind a front cover that has to be removed, the timing chain (or belt in applicable designs) has to be removed, all before the water pump can be accessed for inspection or replacement in the event of a bearing seal failure."
I hate to rain on your parade, but you're not going to find a water pump "hidden" behind a front cover on the new Hyundai engines.
Comments
With the LX you will be gaining more features than the leather seats... You will be gaining heated seats and I think that the digital A/C controls and Outside temp only come on the LX.. I am not sure about that..
This is true (the leather interior) with the 2006 Sonata, but not true with other marques. I bought a new 1985 SAAB 900 in April 1985 with heated seats, and it had the standard velour interior. According to the SAAB manufacturers rep, the material was not of a special design. And, the seats after over 20 years of service show very little wear, as does the remainder of the interior except for the cracked dash pad and a droopy headliner (easily replaced) - both typical SAAB 900 maladies.
We've been looking at a 2006 Sonata, and am trying to convince my wife to go with the LX, but she's never liked leather seats. Too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter . . .
Thanks!
The same principle applies to average MPG. Wife had an '88 LeBaron Turbo. At first I thought she was too heavy on the foot, but I was wrong. She's get gas 7/10's mile from home. 1/2 mile of that is up a steep winding hill. If I got in the car and headed in the other direction and drove 5 or 6 miles the average MPG would almost double.
The trip computer is giving you the actual measurement since it was reset and includes all the time the engine is running, even if you are stopped. Don't got by one tank of gas, or even 2. Look at it over at least 2 tanks. My '05 Sonata doesn't have trip computer & I miss it...however it has many more features than my previous car.
But it does seem your MPG is low. My '05 2.7L V6 got 28 MPH in 1300 strictly highway miles (except for about 3 miles to stop overnight). That's where I stopped calculating "highway miles". The car only had 28 miles on it when the trip began. I filled the tank, on the highway 60 miles from home and another 200+ miles locally. I think that tank of gas gave me something like 21 or 22 MPG (would have to check records at work). If your daily drive is only 20% local, that will significantly affect your MPG.
That was a month ago, though...
I currently have a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback. The other day while I was at the dealer getting an oil change, I started looking at the new Sonatas and was really impressed. I am thinking about trading up. My Elantra is a five speed and is fairly sporty with nimble handling. I do get good gas mileage around town (26 - 28mpg) but have the wheel shimmy problem and a bit of a smelly air conditioner.
Frankly, I am a bit tired of shifting all the time and would like something I could easily give to my daughter when she starts driving in four years. I especially like all the safety features of the new Sonata from that point of view. I also wouldn't mind something a bit bigger and safer to drive in the meantime.
Part of my current indecision is that my Elantra is worth at least $2000 less than I owe on it. I am thinking about getting an 06 Sonata GLS with the four cylinder. I test drove one and thought it was pretty nice, if very different from the Elantra. I think I could get used to it very quickly.
I know I can get $2000 off the MSRP of $19900 and will probably be able to get at least another $1000 off after shopping around at the four or five Hyundai dealers in the area. I think after factoring TT&L and the amount I am behind on a trade, I would probably be right back at the MSRP.
I read good things about the new Sonata on this board. Do those of you who own one think it is a good deal even at the MSRP? I obviously know first hand about lousy Hyundai resale value, but do we think the new Sonata will be better in this regard? Actually, I usually keep cars for a long time. Should I be concerned about buying a brand new car with lots of new components, including the engine?
Oh, one more question? Does anyone own that deep blue color? I think I like that color but am a bit undecided. I really thought it was black sitting on the dealer's lot.
Thanks for any ideas you can offer on this.
http://www.auto123.com/en/info/news/roadtest,view,Hyundai.spy?artid=45920&pg=1
http://cars.ign.com/articles/641/641527p1.html
Thanks.
I can second that. I have an 04 Sonata LX and an 05 Tucson LX AWD and both got lousy gas mileage until they had around 4-5K miles on them. They both now are near the original EPA estimates, which is fine by me. Given the fallacy that is the EPA mileage estimates, any person that relies on those figures and expects to get them in the real world better think again. Those numbers have always been so unreliable that even the EPA now acknowledges that they need to revise their testing procedures so that the numbers will reflect real-world driving habits.
Here is some info from the EPA website: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/
Laboratory Tests vs. Real-World MPG
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This is not unusual, since real-world conditions frequently differ from those in laboratory tests, which are strictly controlled so that the results can be used to compare the fuel economy of different vehicles:
No laboratory test can simulate all driving conditions and driving styles. Trip length, traffic conditions, terrain, temperature, and weather all affect fuel economy. In addition, fast acceleration and heavy braking, driving at high speeds, carrying extra weight, using cargo racks, using electrical accessories, and using 4-wheel drive reduce fuel economy.
Vehicle maintenance can affect fuel economy. Test vehicles are typically in optimum condition.
Fuels vary in energy content. Oxygenated and reformulated gasoline contains less energy per volume, and gasoline composition varies seasonally.
Small differences due to vehicle manufacturing and assembling can cause differences in fuel economy.
New vehicles don’t attain maximum fuel economy until they’re “broken in,” usually around 3-5 thousand miles.
Laboratory Tests vs. Real-World MPG
Some consumers may notice that their fuel economy estimates differ from EPA's estimates. This can be caused by any of several factors related to driving conditions and driver behavior, vehicle maintenance, fuel characteristics, and vehicle-related factors:
It is impossible for laboratory tests to simulate all driving conditions and driver behavior
EPA tests are designed to simulate “typical” city and highway driving conditions, but they cannot simulate all possible driving conditions and every person's driving style. The following driver behavior and driving condition factors can affect fuel economy:
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Quick acceleration and heavy braking reduces fuel economy by as much as 33 percent at highway speeds and 5 percent around town. EPA tests do not account for this kind of vigorous driving.
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Driving at higher speeds increases aerodynamic drag (wind resistance) and reduces fuel economy. The EPA test accounts for aerodynamic drag up to highway speeds of 60 mph, but drivers often exceed this speed.
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Cargo or cargo racks on top of your vehicle (e.g., cargo boxes, canoes, etc.) can increase aerodynamic drag and lower fuel economy. Vehicles are not tested with additional cargo on the exterior.
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Excessive idling decreases average mpg. The EPA city test includes idling, but drivers that experience more idling can experience lower MPG.
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Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight can decrease fuel economy. Vehicles are assumed to carry three hundred pounds of passengers and cargo.
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Running electrical accessories (e.g., air conditioner) decreases fuel economy. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce MPG by roughly 5 to 25 percent compared to not using it.
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Cold weather and frequent short trips can reduce fuel economy, since your engine doesn't operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature.
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Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground.
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Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases crankcase losses.
Vehicle Maintenance
A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel, so fuel economy will suffer if it is not in tune. Improperly aligned or inflated tires can lower fuel economy, as can a dirty air filter or brake drag.
Fuels Vary in Energy Content
A vehicle's fuel economy depends on the energy content of the fuel on which it runs—this has been determined by EPA and others and is consistent with combustion theory. The use of oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1-3%) in fuel economy. In addition, the energy content of gasoline varies from season to season. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.
Inherent Variations in Vehicles
Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.
New Vehicles
New vehicles will not obtain their optimal fuel economy until the engine has broken in. This may take 3-5 thousand miles.
You're all too correct about how most owners ignore their cooling system's needs. Hyundai not much help, only recommending a "quality ethylene glycol antifreeze" suitable for "aluminum engine parts" - not very specific. The recommended changeout is at 2 years/30,000 miles - which suggests to me that Hyundai's still filling their cars with conventional silicated (the older, general purpose "Prestone" type that's no longer available except as private store brand in the U.S.) antifreeze. Last September just a few weeks shy of 2 years on my '03 MY Sonata V6, I decided to go ahead and change it out. The factory-fill coolant drained cloudy - not a good thing, but no scale, either. However, subsequent refills with distilled water, warm-up idling and drains showed no further turbidity or any scale expulsion. In other words, I think I got to it in time. Once there was no fuirther tell-tale leftover green dye marker in my repeated distilled water flushes and drains, I refilled with one of the extende-life, non-silicated antifreezes (Wal-Mart "SuperTech" brand supplied by Prestone) that claims 5-yr./150,000 mile working life. So far, at not quite 1 year, it's remained perfectly tranparent and green. (This is actually an unadvertised DEX-COOL "clone", but without the GM logo and licensing expense added to the selling price.) Unless there're any indications that the cooling system's stressed, or the color or transparency changes, I will change out again at three years from its installation or 50,000 miles just out of my conservatively cautious nature.
As to the notion of Hyundai's moving to a real timing chain replacing the previous kevlar-reinforced belt, keep in mind that most of that $400.00 belt replacement cost is in the form of shop labor charges. Also keep in mind that chains can and do break - often with catastrophic consequences as the broken chain thrashes around unmercifully. Finally consider that the water pumps on these engines are hidden behind a front cover that has to be removed, the timing chain (or belt in applicable designs) has to be removed, all before the water pump can be accessed for inspection or replacement in the event of a bearing seal failure. Silicates used in prior antifreeze products, and subject to falling out of solution as hard precipitates, are notoriously harsh on water pump seals - the reason why GM, Honda, Toyota, and Nissan went exclusively to non-silicated, extended-life antifreeze formulations seven or eight years ago. Ford and Chrysler still use a form of silicated antifreeze (Zerex "G-05", but labled and dyed differently for the two car makers), but with the silicate content seriously reduced. In short, I suspect that 60,000 mile service will still be just about as expensive, but for different reasons. Hindsight being 20/20, I recommend that buyers of these new Hyundai Sonatas, I4 or V6, seriously consider having the factory coolant flushed and replaced with a non-silicated or G-05 antifreeze as initial preventive maintenance - and take with a grain of silicate the notion that any antifreeze formulation should be left in the engine for a full 5 years or 150,000 miles.
While Hyundai recommends ATF drain and replacement at 100,000 miles under "normal" service, the company does recommend that service at 30,000 miles under "severe" conditions. Unless the owner lives in a dust-free area, devoid of hilly terrain, doesn't operate the car in urban stop-'n-go driving, and is blessed with ambient temperatures at or below 85 degrees year 'round, he or she would also be advised to figure on replacing the ATF every 30,000 miles. I know - ain't gonna happen. Probably the principal reason Hyundai dealerships are rife with transaxle shipping cases to return the "cores" to Hyundai's national AT service shop for rebuilding . . .
I have the Dark Cinnamon LX. I got mine for dealer invoice. There were no rebates at that time. I have had mine since the 21st of June.
"DESCRIPTION:
The 2006 Model Year Sonata contains an Auto Door Lock feature to automatically lock all doors at a predetermined speed. This feature can be enabled or disabled and the operating range (locking speed) can be adjusted using the Hi-Scan tool.
NOTE: The Auto Door Lock feature setting is 'disabled' from the factory."
Any Hyundai dealer is equipped to re-program the factory default setting to one of four vehicle speeds at which the power door locks will be activated. However, this procedure is not a warranty service - the owner may be obligated at the whim of the dealer to pay the dealer's minimum shop labor charge to activate a factory supplied feature of the car.
Thanks for the heads-up, denp44! Apparently Hyundai has finally gone to a long-life antifreeze for initial fill. If you have a 2006 Sonata, would you mind looking up in your owner's manual whether Hyundai has any specific antifreeze recommendation and posting back? (The Japanese "big three" each have their own proprietary antifreeze available through their respective dealers - I'm just curious to find out whether Hyundai has embarked on the same path to a high-profit $20.00/gallon OEM coolant, too.) TIA!
I hate to rain on your parade, but you're not going to find a water pump "hidden" behind a front cover on the new Hyundai engines.