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Comments
Good morning. I am interested in your 86' Alfa Spider Veloce. I have a few questions I hope you can answer. I appreciate all the detail in your craigslist add.
1) Is there any rust remaining in the vehicle?
2) Does the car have a clear (non salvage) title?
3) Is the roof vinyl or cloth?
4) I believe you say all electrical works, but windows role down slowly (correct)?
5) A/C does not work, but do you have an estimate on repair?
6) Does the heat work?
7) Does the car travel straight? Has it been involved in an accident?
7) Would you entertain $3,500.00?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But here was my response.
Honestly, I didn't even READ that last one until after I typed answers to the first 7. Wish I had and saved my time.
Thanks for your interest. I'll try to answer your questions as best as I can.
1. There is no rust on the body or floors. However, it seems there are inner rocker panels that have rust. How this affects the car, I can't say. I don't know enough about bodywork to judge if the inner rockers would pose any sort of problem.
2. The title is clean and clear.
3. It is vinyl.
4. That is correct.
5. I do not. I've never had the desire to repair it.
6. Yes. It has been a long time since I drove it in cold weather, however. I could check again if you are interested.
7. The car drives straight. It has never been in an accident since I've owned it. But it does predate Carfax, so I can't tell you if the previous owner was in an accident or not.
8. No.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
As for the rust, the more delicate the description of it the better. I usually describe rust as either "surface" or "some rust bubbles" or the dreaded "perforation". If there's no perforated rust, this is good to mention I think.
As for the AC question, you could respond by saying "the compressor is not seized". This is actually good news for someone.
Heater would be good to test so you can say YES with confidence. Winter's comin'!
Well at least they're biting. Good luck.
Most important thing---encourage them to COME SEE THE CAR before you even discuss anything about price. Don't say yes, no, whatever...if they won't come see the car, they are not serious buyers so this is a good tactic for you, to hit them with that request right off.
Can't be many of those Giulias left on the road in NA
i'm not sure how to describe inner rockers. I mean, I THINK that's what is rusted. I don't know what else it could be. Do these even have inner rockers? It certainly isn't the outter rockers, as those are very solid and the paint still perfect. And it certainly ain't the floorpans since those have been replaced. It is some sort of sheet metal that is behind the outter rockers but below where the floorpans attach to the sills. ???
Is the non-seized compressor just tested by spinning the pulley?
BTW, 2 responses so far on Alfabb. Both positive and both "want to buy" but both are not immediately in the market. Hmmmm... But I am encouraged by not getting negative responses so far.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You'll always have something to fix
Can you SEE any rust? If not, forget about it.
Peugeot -- cool car, but it's only worth maybe $750. No parts, no service anymore. It's all dried up in the USA.
You need to try and turn the clutch (the nearest thing to us in the pic), not the pulley. If the clutch is not engaged, the pulley will spin, seized or not.
For the scope of that article, it takes a bit less to buy a W210 E55....25K would buy one of the best examples remaining, one better than my car. A genuinely nice one should be able to be found for around 20K. High-milers and neglected examples can be found down around 12-15K. I have seen W211 E55 (supercharged) cars with asking prices below 30K nowadays, but early examples don't have a great reliability rep.
Does that count?
You can actually see it in this pic in the top-left corner. I believe you can see the bottom edge of the outter rocker, and then there is that bit of rustiness, crustiness there. Maybe 1/2" wide?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here's one with 74K, one owner, asking $26.9. I'm sure you could haggle it down to $25K.
NSX on the Cheap
I found 8 NSXs in the $25K-$28K range on Autotrader, and most of them looked pretty darn good.
would you not mention it at all when someone asks?
Just say its rust-free?
Or I guess I could stand by my ad. "Like the ad says, all bodywork and floors redone and are rust-free." Because, after all, inner rockers aren't body or floor, are they?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
None of my business, but how much do you have in it, & what's your "bottom line" for selling? The $3500 guy, if he's real, & showed up with 35--$100 bills, or you could get him up to $4K, what would you do?
Personally, I've found it hard to be rational about selling a Vintage car that I've loved, & rational about the price too. But if Real Buyers with Real $$ show up........& Winter is coming......? (Not saying the price you should take, because I don't know).
Thanks for the comments on the Super. It will be a lot cooler when I can actually drive it.
-Jason
woody - hell no. my bottom price would be $4500. I don't NEED to sell it (not yet at least). And i don't believe it will depreciate. And I've already set the goal in my mind that if it doesn't sell for at least $4500 by mid-to-late October, then I pull the ads and wait till Spring. I will very likely do work to it over the winter and raise the price in Spring.
How much do I have in it? I truly have no idea. And, of course, there is that ever-common problem of my own time. If we're talking out-of-pocket expenses ... oh... ummmm.... including original price of car.... geesh. I'll ballpark it at $6000. The little expense truly get lost over the course of a decade. And I'm a very poor record keeper.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When you hear about people paying nuts prices for ratty old accords, etc........here's a question: what if it sells? How much will you miss it?
Not getting much action this first weekend of the ads being up. Most likely, it will go up on Ebay on Thursday. I figure that's a good day to list because I can pick a 10-day auction, get 2 weekends out of it, and end on a Sunday.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But once the Alfa's sold, you'll have a good reason to find a 'new' car-guy-car that you'll be excited about. What'll you look for??
The car had, as we say in the classic car Hunter's Club----"good bones".
I'm glad to see that you still have the yellow Spider and that it is providing you with a lot of fun. As I mentioned earlier in the forum, I recently purchased a project of my own: an '84 Volvo 240 coupe, with a 4-speed and the bulletproof 2.3-liter engine. The 240 has provided me with some decent thrills in the three weeks I've owned it- however, I don't drive it on a daily basis because I absolutely will not drive a stick in the heavy traffic on Alexandria streets.
One comment about the 2.3- I've discovered all too quickly that unlike an Alfa four-cylinder, it doesn't like to rev at all. The engine gets winded very quickly and I find myself having to shift out of first very early, at around 10 mph and 2600 rpm.
I'm amazed someone bid $28K on it. That's about $8K over book for the most pristine one on the planet and includes a $4K bonus for miles. This isn't an R, after all, or a convertible even. It's just a used car that will continue to depreciate for a while.
black would be better than red, but whatever.
i don't need 300/400 horsepower that does 1.0 g's on a skid pad.
over the last 5 years i have not put over 900 miles a year on my 1991 mustang, but i cherish them. it's not about the 'ultimate', but what i like.
i think it's a common affliction, but it's about what you are willing to pay for it.
Odds are very very strong that it won't be a convertible. I greatly prefer the rigidity and security of an enclosed car ... so I've found out over the years.
Shifty ... I'm with you, of course. I wouldn't turn down another Alfa. Just can't be a droptop.
But, in the end, I'm 90% sure I'll be thinking "track car," so it will probably be something much easier to get parts for and easier to maintain. Maybe a frankenstein of some sort. Get a light rear-driver, gut it, and throw in some sort of JDM drivetrain. Hell, maybe I'll weld up a tube chassis and go from there.
Although, a similar car to that $5k M3 I posted for my father a couple of weeks ago would be mighty tempting, too.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you don't use the '74 Spider on a daily basis, what is your everyday driver? I'd love to use my '84 Volvo as a commuting car but it's just too old to risk on these busy DC Metro roads. I don't want to drive it and have it quit on me for no reason at all.
I thought of a Miata w/ hardtop, too. Its possible. It all depends on what I find when I'm looking.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've got a few suggestions for a nice, fun, cheap sporty car:
4th-generation Honda Prelude. These are good-handling vehicles with the vaunted Honda reliability, and they are out there, providing you can find one that hasn't been abused or modified into a boy-racer.
1990-93 Toyota Celica. Try to find one in either GT-S or All-Trac trim, then the fun really begins there. The All-Trac is a ferocious handler.
I'm already in that mode where I'm thinking "OK. I listed it, so I want it gone already!" But I gotta be patient. I'll just keep tinkering as time allows. Went out there yesterday to see why my interior lights were out. Found 3 blown fuses. I have no idea what they were connected to, but one of them was the lights. Also replaced one of the convertible top holddown screws that was missing, and dug up spare/missing emblems and threw those in the glovebox. Just little stuff that I notice.
oh, and about the AC, I think it may be seized. Can't get more than 2 fingers on the front of the compressor, but I couldn't move it. Not sure what kind of leverage I would need, but I would think it wouldn't be THAT tough.
I've always liked the Preludes. Just not sure I'm willing to go FWD for my fun/track car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
While we're on the subject, do you have any suggestions on how to make my '84 Volvo sportier and handle better?
Seriously though, you could probably find some parts from IPD
http://www.ipdusa.com/
Definitely sway bars and/or sway bar bushings front and rear and better shocks/struts. Bilsteins are wonderful. A shock tower brace might help but that's kind of nit-picking. And GOOD TIRES. Lowering the car would be GREAT but I'm not sure how you're going to do that very easily. Maybe iPD has an option there. And special tie rods are a slick trick.
Unless you're in for $1,000 dollars or so, I wouldn't even start. That's at least what it will take to make the Swedish sofa handle reasonably well. $1,500 would be better.
If you are on a strict budget you might just go with sticky tires and a first-class wheel alignment and corner-weighting designed for quick turn in, etc.
If you go with those poly sway bar bushings you can expect a harsher ride.
Re: track Miatas - I had a GREAT little dual-purpose track / street '92 Miata a while back, but finally sold it because I got tired of having to duck my head under the roll bar every time I passed a corner. I'm not that tall, either - 5'11". I agree that there's not much better than a Miata for a cheap track sl ... er ... companion
-Jason
When you first came on board here in the forums, I recall you mentioning a '77 Toyota Celica that either you or your brother had purchased as a project. Do you guys still have it, or did it go to another owner?
However, you may want to search on swedespeed. There is the occassional madman who will make his own parts. I got a set of heavy duty adjustable endlinks that way. They were very very nice and quite cheap compared to IPD.
Yeah, if you go all out, you're talking sways, endlinks, springs, and shocks at a minimum. So... $1k sounds about right. Start with the sways and endlinks and work your way up from there.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
One big problem IMO is high roll center. Basically you are driving a Swedish lighthouse.
Also bought a '90 740 wagon. Had that for a couple of days before giving it to my brother. But I've had to do a good bit of research and help him out with repairs since then. Its basically a rebodied 240.
out of 22 vehicles that have passed through my hands, 2 were Hondas, 2 were volvos, 2 were AMC/Jeep, and 2 were Mazdas. The other 15 were all from different manufacturers. So I have at least a little bit of knowledge of 18 makes. Yikes.
OK, maybe not totally on the up-and-up if you think about it. Like the Mercury Zephyr and Ford Mustang. I mean, almost identical cars under the skin (and yet 13 years difference in them!). Or the Nissan 350Z and Infiniti G35X, as another example.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S