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Exactly.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That says everything you need to know. You'll never be done with this car. It'll be like painting the Golden Gate Bridge. When you get to the end, you'll start all over on the other side.
I think the owner just gave up and wanted to sell while the car is still running. The extra top would be another incentive for an unsuspecting Saab buyer:
"Ooh, look, a nice Saab convertible with extra parts for only $1500- didn't you always wanted a European convertible?"
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
One thing that's a bear on these cars is that the front of the engine faces the firewall, so changing belts, alternator, etc. is really tough.
On the other hand, doing a clutch is a breeze, since the mainshaft of the transmision can be slide out toward the front of the car---you don't have to remove the transmission to lift the clutch plate out. The clutch slave clyinder, however, is inside the bell housing, so if that fails, you got a problem, as the pressure plate is firmly applied to the disk. I got mine out with a 6-foot fulcrum bar.
By the by, the cost for the MR2 through Hagerty... $86/yr. And I did check the box "Yes" where it asked if I would race/autocross it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Q - Yeah, well, I have never been much of a conformist!
I'll look it up for you and tell you what might be involved.
Book says 6.3 hours if you are a pro, + 15 minutes more more for AC, and another 15 for the flywheel if you have to remove it, and 15 more for the pilot bushing if you're going to replace that.
Soooooo---looks like a fair bit of work for the DIYer---maybe not a one 8 hour day kind of job.
Sounds like this may be a job to begin tackling on a Saturday morning so as to give plenty of time to get it up and running before work on Monday! Of course, those books are so generous; I can't imagine it taking more than three hours.
certainly unusual, looks like it's in decent shape, and price thus seems reasonable.
i have this fantasy, which will remain unrealized, about delivering my current high school senior to college in a 60's or 70's wagon, just too far away.
The owner is the brother-in-law of a friend of mine.
Remarkable. -Mathias
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Worked for me.
Here's the text, glommed from "Saabs United:"
I got an email from a guy named Jerry through the week. He was seeking some more information about a car that owns and is looking to sell.
I don't normally do 'for sale' stuff here, but this seemed to be an interesting one and even if you're not interested in it as a prospective purchase, you might be able to help out with some information.
I don't know much about it, so I'll just post what I received, including some background thoughts he tracked down from Chip Lamb, a legend in the vintage Saab community.
------
Hi Steven
I own a 1970 Saab Rally. 1 of 150 imported into the U.S.A. It is the original orange color. It is in showroom condition. It has been garaged and has 96k miles.
The badging on fenders and spoiler I added. The rims are from a sonnet as the originals were steel rims. I am looking for a bit more than 12,000 but this gives me a base to determine off of. When I was visiting Trollhatten in the mid 80's Johann Traumer offered me $8,000 for this car as Saab did not keep one for thier prototype museum, but I was not ready to sell at that time.
Background info received from Chip Lamb:
What's really interesting is that yours might be the only 1970 model in orange and possibly the car used for promotions. All the other ones I know about (2 other survivors) were 1971 models. Apart from no undercoating and seam-welded joints in the unitbody they were just regular 96es - nothing else. Most of these cars were used as company cars up in CT where they rusted quite quickly due to no undercoating...
The badging on your front fenders is incorrect - the "SAAB" is from a 1973 95/96 or 73-79 99; "Rallye Sport" from a 1970s Renault if memory serves. You should have a continuation of the spears.
If you're interested, or if you know some more information about this car/model, the feel free to shoot me an email and I'll forward it on to Jerry.
As mentioned, I don't normally do 'for sale' stuff but this one seems to be a rather rare example. Of course, this isn't an SU endorsement, however, and you should do your own homework on the car.
If it were a Model 93 GT or something, that would be different.
Back when I first started college, one of of friends had a 57(?) Chevy. It needed a new transmission, automatic if I remember correctly. We, we swapped out the old one and put the new one in laying on our backs under the car in the alley in back of his dad's house. IIRC, we use a hydraulic jack and some wood to help lift the tranny in place until we could get it bolted up. It did run after we were done, at least long enough (a year or two) until he was able to save enough money to buy a VW Beetle.
link title
While I really like these cars in general, they're far from rare (115500-ish Caprices, not counting wagons, were built for '68 model year), so let's say half were coupes, and they've survived far more than sedans. This one, while fairly well-equipped, isn't loaded to the point that it's unusual (tilt, buckets, 396, hidden headlights and rally wheels, were all fairly common on Caprice coupes). Cosmetically, it needs everything (and I'm wondering how that trunk looks, what with the no rear window and all). The Very Nicest One On Earth of these might sell for $20k (far more factory loaded and pristine), usually more like $17k (the best wagon version I've ever seen sold for $15k a couple months ago on eBay). As Shiftright says (apologies for paraphrasing), you ain't gettin' there from here for all the work this thing needs.
If you buy a clutch kit, if you can find one, it comes with the disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and that alignment tool. I found mine on ebay for $99 plus $20 shipping. It was OEM brand (Exedy).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1967 250 SE
I saw this car in person a few years back in a parking lot and it looked to be in very decent condition at the time. While rust is not usually an issue here, it still amazes me that this car has lived here so long and fared relatively well....
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Yeah, and no way of telling at this point aside from being able to see that it is in good shape cosmetically. The seller certainly is not loquacious, but at least he can spell!
If it runs, drives, stops, steers, and isn't rusty, $2500 isn't bad, and it could probably be had for 20 Benjamins.
Of course, a lot of boring and low value cars are "collectible"...but that word isn't used for many old MB sedans.
Any of the old 250s 280s from the 60s and 70s are dirt dirt cheap. You pretty much have your pick in the $2000 to $3000 range.
So buy a 68-72 220 (the best) 250 or 280 and be happy, is my advice.
pro bono is a wonderful thing.
The car is apparently original, in great shap and very well cared for. Well it was anyway until the owner died about four years ago. Since then, it has just sat in the garage.
I know these are slow and boring, but we are pondering if it is worth the trouble of getting it back into driving shape. It is an interesting piece of history. Of course, it is probably no more exciting to drive than just sitting behind the wheel in the driveway.
A W114 is so boring looking...I think what draws people to the 108s is their classic looks...not weird like a fintail, not boring like later cars.
Probably the most objectionable feature of this car, aside from the ....ahem....leisurely acceleration which could trap you in a right hand merge lane forever or force you to take the shoulder on a long hill climb....the worst thing would be the vibration from the engine wearing you down as you drive.
250SE -- yeah, they are gas hogs. You remember maybe that I used to work for MBNA in Montvale and had to deal with customer relations; also if you check published road testing you'll see this is about the right MPG in the "real world". Naturally, if you're like me, you can squeeze better MPG out of a car than the average bear, by using only mid-throttle acceleration and anticipating red lights and traffic slow downs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/If_and_only_if
Regarding value, a 240D in very clean cosmetic condition (no dents, no rust, good shiny paint, excellent tex interior) and without mechanical needs should be worth a few grand, but it'll be tough to go mugh higher unless the car is really exceptional.
They might have also played around with gearing, as well. Sometimes it doesn't take much of a change to impact acceleration. For instance, Mopar changed the standard axle ratio in the 225 slant six Darts and Valiants from a 2.94:1 in 1967 to a 2.76:1 in 1968, and 0-60, as recorded by Consumer Reports, went from 13 seconds to 14.
A 240D? Man, I would not have fun in traffic, flooring it just to keep up. I'm just not much of a fan of these. I pulled onto the freeway, passed a 240D that was working its way up to the speed limit. 3 miles later it passed me, finally got itself up to 70 or so....
However, it tracked straight as an arrow on the highway.
For Christmas one year, I secured personalized plates for it as a gift to my folks:
REAL SLO