Project Cars--You Get to Vote on "Hold 'em or Fold 'em"

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Comments

  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    I bought it only 5 years ago, but yeah, it's an 02. Like most MB designs, it has aged fairly well - and with how I maintain it, nobody believes it is so old.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you ever feel the need to pound your dental filings into dust, drive an early BMW/ Mini Cooper with sport suspension and run-flat or low profile tires. :sick:

    When I hit certain potholes, my glovebox pops open and my smartphone re-boots.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    My car is enough for me.

    I went from the fintail which has a pretty soft and squishy ride, to a W126 which has a very plush and smooth ride, to the C43 which has a rough go-kart ride, to the E55 which has what at first felt very plush compared to the C43, but now gets tiresome on bad lower speed roads, and I fear suspension damage. On highways it is lovely though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I kinda like being bashed around--it reminds me of the "old days" when cars felt and drove like 'machinery" and I felt connected to the machine. Of course, I mean this "within reason" and I for one am going to shed the low profile tires for chubbier ones and replace the stock suspension some day with something more adaptable.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    I'm happy with mechanical noise - I don't need my spleen to come up through my throat because of a bad road.

    That combined with low profile tire cost probably makes my current lo-pro ride my last. I am sure something taller can still have good cornering.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    I think I can wiggle my way out of what could have been an unintended faux pax because, if I'm not mistaken, the 2000 Park Avenue doesn't have port holes. Now, if true, please don't tell me that the former owner installed aftermarket portholes.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    edited March 2011
    All three brands of German luxury cars age well, in my opinion. It would be difficult for me to describe why, in design terms, but they just do.

    When you drive up in a '02 Mercedes that's nicely maintained, very few people know it's a nine year old car. Count me as one who wouldn't know a '02 from a '05. People notice the grille, the classic lines, and in a second or two their brain registers "nice Mercedes." Next... Back in the day you might have said that about Cadillacs, and, to a little lesser extent, of Lincolns. Kind of, sort of, but the radical styling changes when those brands introduced new platforms kept a lid on how long you could impress people. Sure, people knew you drove a Cadillac when you pulled up in, say, a '51 in '60, but most people, not just car buffs, knew it was an old Cadillac.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    Long platform lifespans and consistent styling themes do a lot to make cars age well. A specific trait, like a grille and an emblem, do it too. The "bugeye" W210 look carried on to the W211, so it was sold from model years 1996-2009. That's a long run.

    I am sure way back when it was the same for Caddy, maybe changing in the late 50s when year changes became painfully obvious.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Cadillac had a great run up to 1957 or so as a "Standard of the World"--- then the 58-60 horror show, and despite a few good efforts, things were never quite the same again for this marque, not even today.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,828
    All three brands of German luxury cars age well, in my opinion. It would be difficult for me to describe why, in design terms, but they just do.

    I don't think that's a true statement overall. But I think you're on to something. I "believe" -- and that's all it is, don't really know -- that the Germans build their bodies to a very high standard. The rust protection and general solidity helps the cars look good, and helps their structural integrity. The plastic panels you bolt to a door that never sags will rattle less than a car that starts coming apart at the seams. An '80s Benz' door thunk is just like when it was new... try that with a Riviera of the same vintage... you'll have to lift the door up 3/4" before it'll close.

    But to age well, your Audis and Benzes will require a lot of care, and a lot of that care can be very expensive. The electronics don't age well, at least in many cases. Head gaskets/turbos/auto transmissions often need repair on Audis, and the price will make you gag. And wasn't it our very own Shifty who said that there are generations of BMWs where plastic parts fail with age due to the environmental regulations and outgassing requirements? Maybe that's all been worked out now, but I would tread carefully.

    Cheers -Mathias
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    I don't disagree with anything you said, since I don't have enough experience with the parts and components you listed as being problematic. My comments was in reference to the styling of German luxury cars, and on this we're in agreement.

    On the matter that German cars require a lot of care, and are generally high maintenance, many of the comments in these discussions agree with your conclusion. My very limited experience, with a very well maintained, relatively low mileage '87 3-Series, and my wife's current '07 A4 2.0T Quattro automatic, support your conclusions to some extent.

    My 3-Series, which I drove ~25,000 miles over four years, was higher maintenance (per mile) than any of the many American and Japanese cars I've had. I'd summarize the expenses as high, but within the bounds of reasonableness. The Audi's warranty expired at 50,000 miles, in January, and so we've not had any out of pocket expenses yet, other than tires. I expect my tolerance to be tested. We'll see. However, I'd give both cars high marks for the fun-to-drive factor and styling.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    edited March 2011
    I assumed the comment on 'aging well' was in regards to styling, not reliability. 10-15 year old Audis can look great, but I wouldn't want to buy one. Same can be said for a number of BMWs and MBs of that era, where ones built before the technology explosion would be more desireable to me.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    edited March 2011
    Yours seems to be the majority opinion, so I'm on board with it. I also have the impression that, of the three German luxury brands, old and/or miled up Audis are the costliest to maintain, but I don't have any numbers to support this perception. I may be confusing this with the fact that Mercedes and BMW make parts available for their aging cars, whereas Audi doesn't, or, at least hasn't in the U.S.

    Parts availability probably has a chicken and egg element; good parts availability is an important incentive for keeping an older car, and more older cars on the road justifies a well stocked parts system.

    I'm thinking that the optimal time to trade our '07 A4 is when it reaches 65,000-70,000 miles.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    Just watch out for later W126, earlier W210, and W202 cars from harsh climates, eventually they can rust fairly harshly.

    But interior wise - amazing, even in the bad years.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think some German plastic parts and weatherstripping show poor quality as the cars age. There's hardly a 5-10 year old BMW I've met that doesn't have all kinds of pieces falling off it or sealing parts rotting away --interior parts, grill parts, windshield weatherstrip, vacuum hoses etc. I think the plastics and rubber parts quality on say a BMW 7 series is shocking.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    There's no excuse for this on a BMW. We're not talking about an Aveo here. For me, BMW has been going in the wrong direction, but the market says otherwise, since sales and profits have been strong.
  • michaellnomichaellno Member Posts: 4,120
    For me, BMW has been going in the wrong direction, but the market says otherwise, since sales and profits have been strong.

    Agree. However, I think all auto manufacturers are "dumbing down" the quality of parts that are being used. This isn't a new phenomenon, either.

    The '92-'96 Camry was probably one of the most overengineered cars made at the time -- Ford took one apart while developing the 'jellybean' Taurus / Sable and were astonished at the quality of the materials used.

    When the '97 Camry was released, many reviews commented on the downgraded quality of materials that were used. Toyota did this to help the price case for the Camry as a mainstream offering.

    Same is true with the 1st generation Lexus LS - Toyota went over the top when designing it. I'm pretty certain that the current LS doesn't have the same level of craftsmanship.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    There seems to be a reversion to the mean in the auto industry, regarding quality. As the luxury brands have realized that the marketplace accepts less than the very best, the mass market brands have been improving (eg. Hyundai)

    It seems as though some things, such as engines, transmissions and exhaust systems, last longer than ever. This is partially due to much better lubricants and unleaded gasoline, respectively. Also, bodies have far better rust protection than back in the day. Unfortunately, as these major components have improved, other parts and components have become more fragile and problematic, but this is largely due to the much greater complexity of cars today.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    There was a time, from, say, the '60s through the '80s, when upgraded suspensions yielded significant improvements in the ride/handling proposition. That has changed, in my opinion, as the standard suspensions have gotten a lot better. For approximately the past 20 years, I think the standard suspensions, especially regarding German cars, have been the best compromise. The exception to this generality is for very aggressive drivers.
  • michaellnomichaellno Member Posts: 4,120
    There seems to be a reversion to the mean in the auto industry, regarding quality. As the luxury brands have realized that the marketplace accepts less than the very best, the mass market brands have been improving (eg. Hyundai)

    I would agree with you on that. I remember reading an article in CAR magazine a few years ago that offered the opinion that middle-of the road manufacturers like Ford were going to be hard pressed to deal with the threats from below (like Hyundai, Dacia, Seat, etc.) and from above (BMW 1-series, MB A and B class).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably part of the increased longevity in drivetrain life is due to robots---they can build things to amazingly precise clearances---this started in the mid to late 80s. Prior to that, it was pretty much "push 'em out the door" in Detroit especially.

    I wonder if all this breakable plastic is a result of trying too hard to save weight--which of course is a critical factor in fuel economy.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,117
    I wonder if all this breakable plastic is a result of trying too hard to save weight--which of course is a critical factor in fuel economy.

    The problem with plastic is that it's usually the cheap stuff that DOESN'T break! The nicer stuff that's soft to the touch, has a nice texture, etc, is the stuff that seems to fall apart the quickest.

    Plastic is probably cheaper to work with than most other materials, but the downside is that if you try to engineer it too far, make it into something it's not supposed to be, and you compromise the durability.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    Maybe they need to talk to the Lego people - that stuff is precisely made, and *indestructable*! I've been amazed at the tolerances in some of the moving parts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it all SNAPS together, and when the clips break or get flabby then all the pieces start falling off.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,117
    Well it all SNAPS together, and when the clips break or get flabby then all the pieces start falling off.

    Maybe they need to go back to the old exposed bolts and screws! :P

    I was pretty impressed at how well my 2000 Intrepid held up in the 10 years I had it. The only issues I recall having were that the cupholder wouldn't pop out as smoothly in the later years, and if I stopped too quickly, the little cover over where the ashtray would have been if it was so equipped would pop open. But, nothing ever fell off of that car. Oh, now that I think about it, the steering wheel was getting a bit bad. I think I had gotten grease or something on my hands (or maybe just my natural oils) got it to start deteriorating after a few years. Oh, and the factor floormat on the driver's side was getting a bit trashed. But, it made it to 150,000 miles.
  • baxter225baxter225 Member Posts: 10
    Against the advice of my mechanic, about six months ago I bought a 1990 BMW 525i with a manual transmission from the original owner (my boss) for $700. The car had been sitting for 3 years but had a recently rebuilt cylinder head, radiator, timing belt, shocks, and lower control arms. I have had new hoses, belts, tires, battery, starter, another lower control arm, muffler, and other miscellaneous parts to the tune of another $3000. As summer in the south approaches, I am looking at another $1500 for the A/C. So, do I stick with the plan, which was to drive the car for two years or so and hope that the average per month would be similar to leasing a new Corolla, or sell it for what I can get, take it as a lesson, and move on? The car is oxidized silver, zero rust, very good gray leather interior, all electrical accessories work. I have driven the car every day for 6 months without a problem.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,808
    edited March 2011
    How many miles?

    The 2.5 is a very reliable engine. I would never suggest such an old car for anyone who has to pay a mechanic to do the work, but it sounds like you've got most of it taken care of already. As a poker guy might say, you are pot committed. Keep driving the wheels off it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,773
    I have to agree...you are in this deep now, and would get very little of it back when you wanted to sell, might as well drive it for awhile. Maybe polish it up, get the AC working, and enjoy it.
  • lemmerlemmer Member Posts: 2,689
    I'd sell. The money already spent was just the down payment. Now he can expect repair bills averaging out to maybe $2-3K a year unless he does the work himself.

    I'd lease something new and reliable for $189 a month.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 54,094
    I say keep if you can live without the AC (the reference to the South might mean no to that!), and sell it if you have to have AC.

    I don't particularly care for AC anyway, so would probably not care and keep it.
    \
    Send that baby North!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 54,094
    problem is, if you want something that drives like a BMW, you aren't getting it leasing a base Sentra!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • baxter225baxter225 Member Posts: 10
    The car has about 93,000 miles on it now, about 4000 of which are from me. I would think something like $1500 or $2000 would be a reasonable price if I did unload it but that's just it - do I cut my losses or go long and hope for the best?

    The car drives very well, rides great, and despite only 169 or so horsepower, is fine for around town or cruising on the highway. The visibility and sight lines are so much better than most newer cars that I have experienced.

    I will say it does not like cross winds at all, which is another thing.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    I was just about to say '$1,500 to get it fully useful isn't bad, I'd do it', then you go and say 'it does not like cross winds at all'...uh-oh, sounds like shocks/struts, maybe other suspension problems...

    I'd get the suspension diagnosed first, make sure it's not something dangerously worn.

    And can the paint be saved, or is it going to need a repaint?

    But I sure like them:
    image
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, it runs well now and has under $100K on it....PERFECT time to sell it. It's just going to nickel and dime and quarter you to death. I think you could get $2500 for it (ask $2750 and bargain) or close to it. So, given the premise that "use has value", even if you "lost" $1200, you are no worse off than having leased a car for those months.

    The crosswind problem is no doubt suspension bushings, which is a common fault, and the AC could end up costing you more than you planned.

    In theory, some day the repairs are supposed to stop and then you "catch up". But you bought a cripple and these types of cars are not a good foundation for a happy automotive life IMO.

    I've been down your road so many times, waiting for my precious "find" to "settle down", and they never did for very long. Probably the only used German car I ever broke even on was the 300 diesel, and that's only because I caught the wave of the Save the Earth frenzy, before it was realized that diesel fuel is expensive and that processing cooking oil from Chinese restaurants is best left to retirees and people who don't have a job.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    edited March 2011
    "Keep it or sell it" is always the $64,000 question with old cars you like. Sounds to me, reading between your lines, that you want justification for keeping it. Since you really like this car, I'd roll the dice with your original plan.

    Keep us informed.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 54,094
    In honor of Mr. Shifty, keep it and drop a 350 Chevy in it!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    I don't think you're serious, but that surely would be a mistake with this car.
    Just wondering, though, whether a Chevy 350 is heavier than the BMW I-6, and, if so, by how much. Of course, you'd have to beef up several other components to deal with the extra torque.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 54,094
    no, I was not serious. It was just to yank his chain a little.

    That would be sacrilege in this case.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    not my chain. I only defend cars that are "worth" defending in the classic, historical sense. A 525i is just a nice old used car to me, plentiful and cheap. Hack away at it, I could care less.
  • baxter225baxter225 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for everyone's input. The weather will force a decision by June.

    The power of rationalization...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,808
    Hell, sounds like a car I'd love to buy off you! :blush:

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,117
    I don't know which engine would go in the 525i, but here's a list of BMW engines, weights, and notes:

    BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500 lb
    BMW M60 B 40 4.0 V8 468
    BMW M60 Small Six 388
    BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430
    BMW 5.0 V12 529 "fully dressed"
    BMW 3.0,4.0 V8 462 all aluminum
    BMW 2.3 turbo Diesel 408 iron block, alum head, "complete"
    BMW S14 four 350 318i motor

    For comparison, a Chevy 350 is around 575 lb. The Chevy smallblock is constantly praised for having low reciprocating mass, but one little detail that gets left out is that it's still a heavy engine overall. So, you would probably need to beef up the suspension a bit.
  • lemmerlemmer Member Posts: 2,689
    Maybe, but people aren't really using the old smallblock any longer. I suspect the LS engines are a good bit lighter, particularly the non-truck variants.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    Here's a good comparison of smallblock/LS weights. Looks like the LS would save maybe 100 pounds.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    With all due respect to Shifty, if it only has 93,000 miles on it, and you or the previous owner already took care of most of the major items (timing belt, water pump, etc), I would keep it.

    The AC is a tough call. The AC on my 87 '325 has never worked (well, it did for the first couple of months or so), and I decided it wasn't worth it to me to get it fixed. Then again I had a fairly short commute (8 miles), and also have always had extra vehicles around, at least one of which had working AC should I ever have had the occasion to put on a coat a tie in the summer for work :shades: .
  • lemmerlemmer Member Posts: 2,689
    On a 20 year old BMW, my answer would be the same whether it had 50K or 150K on it. It isn't the major components that drive the maintenance costs on these cars, it is old rubber parts, electrical components, and interior pieces that just fail over time. And you might not think it seems like a big deal until you have a heater hose fail in an impossible place, or your window won't roll up while it is sleeting outside, or you can't defog your window during a rain storm.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    Well, no A/C + southern location = no driving 6 months of the year for me...
  • tjc78tjc78 Member Posts: 17,371
    Well, no A/C + southern location = no driving 6 months of the year for me...

    I live in Jersey and won't drive a car w/o A/C. My 99 S10 has the A/C out and I won't dare drive it to work if its gonna be over 75.

    2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Icon I6L Golf Cart

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's a tough call on the AC, because even when new, 90s era German AC wasn't very good. I did fix the system on my BMW 735i, but man, I got so lucky on that one--and still the AC was marginal at best.

    I don't wish to discourage you, but making decisions based on what is more likely to happen isn't a bad approach.

    I'm just concerned that this car didn't seem to come from a very good home.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 11,182
    With the A/C, the suspension, and the paint problems, I agree, sell it, take the proceeds, the money that would have been spent getting it fixed, plus a little extra and buy a newer one that's in good shape. 525/528s are pretty common.
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