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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions
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Comments
I would guess that the servo mechanism is a flow sensor in the handle. For some reason the flow of gasoline into an empty tank in the Mustang is read as the same as that into a full tank in other cars. This, as suggested by harleygirl1, may have to do with the caliber of the pipe leading to the tank, being narrower than other cars, rather than the tank itself.
Or there might be some kind of air release mechanism, that lets the air out of the tank as gas is being pumped into it. That air release mechanism, probably a valve, may be faulty: air is not being allowed to get out of the tank fast enough and pressure builds up, shutting off the fuel handle. Just thinking out loud.
Either way, the solution is simple: Replace the tank AND the pipe leading to it, and/or put in a better valve, one that allows the fumes to escape as gas is being pumped in.
Further thoughts: Does the problem occur in some states, but not others, and/or some brands of gas, but not others? In other words, could this have something to do with the kind of or variation in fuel handles? I haven't had any problems filling up; I live in California and mostly buy brand name gas, mostly Chevron, sometimes Shell. Has that problem occured in Calif. and/or with Chevron or Shell?
First a description: Loud vibration at 3200 RPM and 1200 RPM (even if car is not in motion). Also, a different "cyclycle" vibration (only with car in motion) between 1900 and 3100 RPM. Both vibrations could be related. Irritaion factor: EXTREME
Well, the dealerships are not too accomodating here...they say "Detroit knows there is a vibration issue, but we cannot do anything about it until they issue a TSB". One tech says he's "sure" that this is an exhaust issue, and that the combonation of a 3-valve per cylinder engine, with the new exhaust, is causing "exhaust drone" at these RPM's. He went on to explain that he thinks that the two diffrent vibration problems are really the same. I told him I beg to differ...I highly doubt that such problems can be caused simply by so-called "exhaust drone". Exhaust drone cannot explain the "cyclycle vibration" (between 1900 and 3100), but he claims it can.
I told him "if exhaust, then fix it"...he said he cannot becuase Detroit has not "officialy" made it an exhaust problem yet, and the dealership will not pay for explortory surgery! He says I can put an aftermarket exhaust on and that would probebly cure the problem. I asked if that would take it out of warranty...he says it would! :confuse: So it is a catch 22. The dealership will not explore the problem without detroits ok. Detroit will not allow me to attempt to remedy the problem with a new exaust. Basically Ford is telling me to live with it.
Yes I have a little dash rattle when I go over bumps, and the slowww RPM drop rate between shifts is irritating (they claim it is to keep the car from droping RPM's too fast and cutting off, but Corvettes don't have that problem, and they too have high pro V-8's). Yes there are a few problems that I can live with...but this vibration thing is driving me nuts. Any advice?
CP
is there a Mustang parts site that lets someone look up parts and shows exploded sub-system views? that's what i'd be looking for to see the design of the gas fuel system as a whole (i.e. not just the tank).
i admit to driving a honda 4dr sedan (i've driven a few Mustangs, greatly enjoyed the experience, just couldn't afford them at the time...fond memories of the family's '65 or '66 white with red interior and the 289?).
the exploded views of my vehicle's gas system clearly shows a vent line and vent valve. i figure the techology isn't all that different now a days between the manufacturer's, primarily because of EPA, OBD testing, and safety/integrity standards during impacts.
i was thinking that the shape of the fill tube (if there is a quick bend in it) could make the problem worse. however, my very uneducated hunch is that the basic issue could be that there's no place for the air being displaced by the gas going in to exit the tank at the rate required...because of some vent problem, leading to a back pressure causing the fuel handle to shut off flow.
i dunno, maybe a tank with a bladder has to be designed differently to allow it to expand as fluid goes in. i just don't know enough about it. it's an interesting problem i hope you find quick resolution to...specially if you live up north. that could be a cold (what 25 minute?) experience each time you needed to refill. not to mention the safety issue of gas coming back out of the filler tube.
CP
CP
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2005&make=Ford&model=Mustang- - - - - &style=GT+Premium+2dr+Coupe+%284.6L+8cyl+5M%29&zip=94530&synpartner=edmunds&tid=edmunds...- - - - - mnt.step2.9.Ford*
To get there, go to home page, click "tips and advice" tab, click "maintenance costs," fill in info, submit, and click TSB link.
The color thing is no biggie. Only works with car at a stand-still with the lights on:
1) Scroll thru menu options with the center setup button till you get to the color menu.
2) Hold the right reset button for 3 seconds -- the readout will count down the seconds.
3) Pressing center setup button moves thru R, G, and B (red, green, and blue).
4) Pressing the reset button changes the numeric value for each color.
5) You can move thru R, G, & B and change the values for each as many times as you want.
6) It will ask you if you want to save by pressing reset.
If in doubt, consult manual.
Park
Lights On
Hold Button
Count Seconds
Move thru R,G,B using reset button (Choosing R,G, or B you do what?)
Press Reset button for numeric values
move thru R,G, and B
Asks you to save by pressing reset ( pressing reset will no doubt change numeric values again)
Consult manual
This would of been better:
Color Tune
o R
o G
o B
The little round thingys are called KNOBS. I know I'll get the hang of it sooner or later, but why make it so difficult?
CP
CP
Vibrations can be a real bear, very difficult to solve, especially if, as you say, it happens without the car moving. One always worries that it is an internal engine balance issue. I suppose a loose/vibrating exhaust manifold could do this, that is plausible.
They said you'd be surprised how many circuits are tied into that thing (smart moduale).
Just fyi, the prob starts with a whining noise from the engine (sounds like a bad fan belt) and then begins slipping when you hit 20 to 25 mph. It feels like if you have a stick and don't shift properly. Just wanted to share, because the noise doesn't sound like a big deal, thank goodness I didn't ignore it.
I have also heard on dedicated Mustang boards that turning the fuel nozzle upside down cures the problem also. It might be worth trying and the cost to try it is definitely affordable for all :shades:
I told him that I would be happy just to get the RPM to drop faster when I let off the accelerator so I wouldn't be embarrased every time I revved the damn thing...he says that can be programned too.
CP
Interesting.
What could possibly be CHANGING within either the tank or the filler pipe which would cause this condition to worsen over time?
I mean, it's a tank. It's a filler pipe. What could be happening within the tank which would make it work initially and then start to NOT take fuel?
Personally, I think that somehow or another, something is getting into and clogging the vent hose.
:confuse:
Bob
Maybe I got that wrong but...let me WAG a guess at this.
Since the system is computerized anyway, and I presume there are push buttons for other functions, it is actually cheaper and simpler to use those pushbuttons in different modes to do multiple things and control this function.
to have potentiometers (variable resistors), would mean that analog circuitry would be required, in addition to analog to digital convertors, which makes a digital design now also analog, and more expensive.
now the existing system is no doubt mixed signal (analog and digital in nature), but doing away with the extra potentiometers and A/D convertors saves money and reduces complexity.
It sounds like the programming effort by the user is a bit complex, and not very user-friendly. Maybe the feature was an afterthought, or just not designed and implemented very well. It may or may not get addressed in subsequent models, but once you set it once and like the preferences, even if a hastle to do so, why would you change it again?
OK - multiple drivers in the household right? OK. Do they link the settings to the FOB being used?
Still you might see why it wouldn't get high-priority to be implemented in another way.
I would think that the LED's used for the backlighting would be on a simple analog circuit...a circuit that's seperate from the digital readout. I mean when you adjust the backlighting, the digital readout does not change in intensity, a further indicator that it is a seperate circuit. If that is so, then why in the world would they make a seperate circuit digital, that runs from the fusebox and is only used to power LED's? I guess the digital circuit has some control over it, because it controls the LED intensity and color mix thru the complex process of the push buttons. But what I am saying is that if they used the variable resistors, they could of kept the circuits seperate, which would of been easier.
:surprise: I think I'm dwelling far too much on this...
Ok, you want better speakers...I'd trade those for 20 more horses!
:P
:mad:
-Christian
:mad: :mad: :mad:
I'm sure someone at Ford thought that they were being clever with that, thinking that it would keep rain out. WHO CARES ABOUT RAIN? Heat is FAR more destructive than rain ever was. I think a recall is in order, they should remove that thingy. They gave the heat absolutly no where to go. What do you think Mr. Shiftright? AM I right?
CP
Somewhere up above I posted a link to TSB's (Ford Tech Service Bulletins) on this site , one or two of which concern the transmission.
I'm away from home and forced to drive a Chevy rental. You guys ought to remember how good you have it ...