I read here when you guys have picked up your trucks and I sit back and think only 7 more weeks or so until mine arrives. I am driving my wife crazy, she can not wait either until it arrives just to shut me up.
I got tired of the drain oil hitting the frame cross member and/or the skid plate and running everywhere. I made a shield out of a semi-rigid sheet of plastic (dealer's license plate insert) to direct the oil down. I weighted the top end of the shield so it stays in place. It worked great, not a drop outside of the drain pan.
I remember reading a few months ago that someone found a rubber bumper on the driver's side floor. I just found the same thing the other day. Did anyone ever find out where it goes? It's a cylnder about 0.5" x 0.5" with a little [non-permissible content removed] out one end to hold it in a hole.
ah, another innovative idea born from a silverado owner. another thing some guys do including myself, ( as if that matters ) is to first punch a hole in the bottom of the filter. works pretty good cause by time most of the oil drains from the pan the filter is pretty much through too. unscrew the filter and "wahlah" little to no oil gets on the exposed surfaces around the filter.
I believe that tex6's concern is related to the engines have been redesigned for 2001 to eliminate excess clearance for the main rod bearings and what the long term effect would be on the 2000's that did not have the change. An opinion would be appreciated...
That is the stop for the parking brake pedal. Those that have had it fall off will notice that the brake pedal goes up father than normal and that it bangs loudly when the metal hits the metal (rather than rubber) stop.
It's easy to replace. A little glue may actually keep it in place ...
ALright today i got pics back of my truck a few of the bedrail caps, mudflaps and a real nice one of a side view. Ill probably post that monday or tuesday. Ill keep you all up to date the pic is real nice
I like the Guardians fine, although I plan on adding some traction pads before the fall rains start (as opposed to the summer rains; I live in the Seattle area, after all). I picked them since they can be painted (as mine are), have the integrated "mud flaps", and attach to the frame. I have the extended cab boards with the box extensions, since, as some farmer folk have pointed out on other Web sites, these new pickups sit higher, and the boxes are taller as well; makes for long lifting.
I had the local 4x4 shop where I got all my goodies paint and install the boards. I'm a "Ryan" type; don't install the heavy stuff myself! (Just yankin' yer chain, 'Babs!)
Thanks for the post on the transmitter reprogramming. Can't beleive the dealer wants $40 to do that! They also told me it takes 30 to 40 minutes to do it! I figure it took me 30 seconds tops. Talk about gouging you. Once again thanks.
I don't think there is a problem with 'excessive' bearing clearance on those engines. The clearance's have been tightened up, but they started tighter than the typical clearanes of 20 years ago.
Of course, 20 years ago 20W-50 or straight 30 weight was normal.
If you start to have the knocking noises after the engine is warmed up - seek professional help!
I just read a post that someone wrote that said they just got their 2001 Z71 two tone(Black/pewter?) truck....I thought 2 tone was unvailable for 2001 on any Gm truck including Subs and Tahoes...I just ordered a 2001 Crew Cab and i want black over pewter but was told it was not available from the factory....Also, does anyone know why they don't put the sunroof in the trcuks? And does anyone know of someone who has installed and sunroof in their silverado? How much and any problems? Thanks - Chris
Trucks in the shop today for that rattle might not get to fix it today the are booked. I am driving my dads Blazer. I cant even believe the power and comfort difference. I didnt know how powerful my silverado was till now. Its amazing i hit the gas and im gone in this thing (4.3) it takes forever to get up to speed.
There's been some related discussion of this topic before, but I haven't seen any specific numbers. Can one of you Silverado gurus in ChevyLand give me the exact impact or change in accuracy I can expect if I change from the existing AM General P255/70R16 to Michelin LT265/75R16 tires on my LT? Thanks for any info.
change from 255 to 265 is not significant. More of a seat of the pants kinda thing. Handling and steering response will be a lot better. Heck I went from 255 to 275 without reprogramming, and I own a HPIII. I prefer the extended warranty approach tho some may disagree...
swolfe3
Don't mention it. Actually I had my extra remote sitting around for a couple of months and was actually too lazy to look up how to do it...LOL.
Thanks to you I finally got off my butt and did it!!
thanks for the response. I don't have any noises and believe that tex6 doesn't either. Just a little paranoia since Chevy advertises it as a difference in the '01 models.
Select JavaScript Programs, then Tire stuff. It lets you put in two different tires, your choice of speeds, and gives you tire speed and rpms for both.
Thanks for the info on the boards. I probably won't get the bed boards 'cause I've got a cap-no reason to step up with the bed covered. BTW what did you pay, if you don't mind my asking?
Re the 2001 two tones: Chev has been making the 2 tones for some time (since about 7/10). I just purchased one (black/pewter) - its a long story, but the bottom line is there are a lot of two tones out there at the dealerships. Gm decided for some reason to stop making the two tones until about Nov or Dec. Denny
Ok, here is one for all you regulars on this site, ( ryan, tim, kyle, obyone, etc). I want to know what this item is. When looking into the front of your grill, to the right of the gold bow tie, and below it, behind the grill what is the push to reset looking button? It is about 8 inches to the right of the tranny coller if you have one. The case for it is about the size of a quarter and the button in the middle is about the size of a large nail. Hope i described it well enough to undertand ( if not i'm sure someone will let me know). My only guess is it is the temperature sensor for the thermometer in the rearview mirror. Anyone concur??? L8TR Dudes Pat
I have some pics of my husky mudflaps (i have fender flares) and the wade bedrail caps (kyle also has em) if you would like to see them please email me at
Ryanb0928@aol.com
I am having trouble posting them on aol or picturetrail. I think it has something to do with the type of file (bmp) i dont know but i will email anyone who wants to see em
Ryan
Pat no idea what you are talking about sorry if i have a chance ill check tomorrow
petriheil, You are getting a fatter taller tire. 10 mm wider and 20.25mm taller. The effect, besides the change in odometer and speedo, is greater rolling resistance (read potentially lower milage) and better cornering performance (due to increased contact patch. Also, you will loose some take off power(so small you might never notice) as the increased moment arm will resist your final drive gearing more.
Mike L., O.K. Took my own advice and "did the math". at 2600 rpm the crank moves at 15600 degrees a second or 43.3 revolutions (360 degree rotations)per second. Further, that is 1 degree every .000064 second. Assume (I can't find a reference that specifically states this at hand and this is what I remember) gas travels at 3600 feet per second f/s. Or gas travels at 1 inch every .000023 second. Assume a 3 inch piston head. Peak pressure would occur .000069 seconds after ignition. Take this into consideration along with the sample calculations above, the piston head is relatively motionless 10-15 degrees before and after TDC. At this point the crank is essentially in transition under the piston and pumping losses are at their least at this point. That is a lot of time to play with timing (no pun intended). Retard timing 1 degree at 2600 rpm and all you get is autoignition and one or more uncontrolled wave(s) that could start anywhere on the piston head. If you get knock, advance the timing. If that creates too much a pumping loss, up the octane. The few degree advance would be so close to TDC the losses will be much less than uncontrolled ignition. Niether being the ideal situation. Your thoughts?
<How did you ever make out with the exhaust system? < matthew
Matt: I have ordered the Flowmaster Seventy Series for my '00 Silverado 4Dr, ShortBed from Summit Racing. Flowmaster is several weeks behind in their production of the Flo-17265 Kit. This is the dual side exhaust, kit the same as you installed. Flowmaster said that this is an extremely popular and highly sought after aftermarket kit and that they can't seem to make them fast enough. I checked all local muffler shops, truck accessories places and no one had them, therefore I opted to order from a mail order house. I received a notice last Friday that the kit is to be shipped 8-22 for a total price of $368.00 (including shipping to Marietta, GA from Akron, OH). I hope that this full bolt-on kit will only require about one hour to install as yours did. I too will store my stock muffler and tail pipe in my basement for a later day if needed. Thanks again for your help in providing the sound files (.wav) as they helped me in my decision to chose the Flowmaster. Dustyone
I checked my transmission today. It was 1/2 quart low (below the hatch marked cold area) with the transmission hot, in park, and engine at idle. My truck has 4300 miles on it. I think that it came from the factory low on fluid. Dustyone
When I noticed my tranny whining..I checked my fluid it was about 1/2 QT low..filled it but the whine remained...wonder how they meter the fills at the factory. I guess my dealer prep didn't cover those fluid checks.
Can someone please post the aftermarket exhaust .wav's for the new Silverado? I'm interested to know what the new firing order sounds like uncorked... the more .wav's of different exhaust systems the merrier...
Seems you promised to do something for someone...and you said you'd get back to him asap....hmmm, did you forget?....see topic #2060...post #136... Are you trying to give us rado owners a bad name?....
got the pics, nice photos, took a while to down load, but ok. hey who are ur bed rail cpas made by? i was thinking of going line-x over the side, instead of bed rails. what u think? pat
you are correct, it is very important!!!!!. I will not sleep till i know. the only reason i noticed it was cause i was washing it. and i was like what the hell is that thing with an electrical wire going to it. it just caught my eye, and now it is got me curious. maybe i will never know. hey dean where are u stationed at in oahu? i was at barbers point from 94-97. being navy and all. flew P-3's. what u do out there? pat
oh yah by the way i noticed in ur photos u have a Z71 hitchware plug in. very nice. i just put in the same one today, very nice cosmetic touch, if i must say so myself. ur truck out of the shop all fixed? pat
wow, that's three posts in a row starting with ryan. Anyway in topic 2060 post 134 dinotwo stated that his dealer told him that his order was rejected due to leather buckets seats. In post 136, you posted that you would talk to your salesman to find out if leather buckets were on constraint and you would get back to him asap...well buddy, this was on August 1, not to sure on your part of the country, but in my parts, asap doesn't mean 2 weeks...
pjcav
My money is with you. I believe its the ambient temperature sensor. First thought it was the impact sensor for the airbags but doesn't fit the description. My $.02.
So you were an Orion driver...boy times have changed. Your old base has been turned over to the State of Hawaii and 90% of the facilities are gone including Paradise West and The Prop Stop. The housing is still being used by military personnel, but no base security of any kind. I believe it was 1 July 99 where NAS Barbers Point was disestablished and 4 squadrons of P3 were moved to Kaneohe MCAS. My company does support work for all branches of the military in Hawaii. Mostly in maintenance of HVAC systems. Recently returned from TDY to Kwajalien...ugh. Well at least part of this post was Silverado related...
Comments
Thanks!
matthew
I would expect a minimum of 200,000 miles for the engine iteslf.
owner. another thing some guys do including
myself, ( as if that matters ) is to first punch
a hole in the bottom of the filter. works pretty
good cause by time most of the oil drains from
the pan the filter is pretty much through too.
unscrew the filter and "wahlah" little to no oil
gets on the exposed surfaces around the filter.
little black thingy? now you've got me looking.
...red
excess clearance for the main rod bearings and what the long term effect would be on the 2000's that did not have the change. An opinion would be appreciated...
Dean
It's easy to replace. A little glue may actually keep it in place ...
Richard
Thanks!
- Tim
Ryan
Dean
Ryan
Some day I'll have to put some pictures of the Silverado.
(Insert shameless promotion here: http://members.home.net/rwagoner)
Richard
I had the local 4x4 shop where I got all my goodies paint and install the boards. I'm a "Ryan" type; don't install the heavy stuff myself! (Just yankin' yer chain, 'Babs!)
Scott-swolfe3
Of course, 20 years ago 20W-50 or straight 30 weight was normal.
If you start to have the knocking noises after the engine is warmed up - seek professional help!
Mike L
Ryan
swolfe3
Don't mention it. Actually I had my extra remote sitting around for a couple of months and was actually too lazy to look up how to do it...LOL.
Thanks to you I finally got off my butt and did it!!
Dean
Dean
Net effect, odometer/speedometer will turn slower. You will have less acceleration. You might increase corrected fuel economy....
Dean
http://users.icubed.com/~sknight/
Select JavaScript Programs, then Tire stuff. It lets you put in two different tires, your choice of speeds, and gives you tire speed and rpms for both.
Mike L
When odometer says 60 MPH you will be going 63.
Denny
L8TR Dudes
Pat
Ryanb0928@aol.com
I am having trouble posting them on aol or picturetrail. I think it has something to do with the type of file (bmp) i dont know but i will email anyone who wants to see em
Ryan
Pat no idea what you are talking about sorry if i have a chance ill check tomorrow
You are getting a fatter taller tire. 10 mm wider and 20.25mm taller. The effect, besides the change in odometer and speedo, is greater rolling resistance (read potentially lower milage) and better cornering performance (due to increased contact patch. Also, you will loose some take off power(so small you might never notice) as the increased moment arm will resist your final drive gearing more.
Mike L.,
O.K. Took my own advice and "did the math". at 2600 rpm the crank moves at 15600 degrees a second or 43.3 revolutions (360 degree rotations)per second. Further, that is 1 degree every .000064 second. Assume (I can't find a reference that specifically states this at hand and this is what I remember) gas travels at 3600 feet per second f/s. Or gas travels at 1 inch every .000023 second. Assume a 3 inch piston head. Peak pressure would occur .000069 seconds after ignition. Take this into consideration along with the sample calculations above, the piston head is relatively motionless 10-15 degrees before and after TDC. At this point the crank is essentially in transition under the piston and pumping losses are at their least at this point. That is a lot of time to play with timing (no pun intended). Retard timing 1 degree at 2600 rpm and all you get is autoignition and one or more uncontrolled wave(s) that could start anywhere on the piston head. If you get knock, advance the timing. If that creates too much a pumping loss, up the octane. The few degree advance would be so close to TDC the losses will be much less than uncontrolled ignition. Niether being the ideal situation. Your thoughts?
Phil
<How did you ever make out with the exhaust system?
< matthew
Matt: I have ordered the Flowmaster Seventy Series for my '00 Silverado 4Dr, ShortBed from Summit Racing. Flowmaster is several weeks behind in their production of the Flo-17265 Kit. This is the dual side exhaust, kit the same as you installed. Flowmaster said that this is an extremely popular and highly sought after aftermarket kit and that they can't seem to make them fast enough. I checked all local muffler shops, truck accessories places and no one had them, therefore I opted to order from a mail order house. I received a notice last Friday that the kit is to be shipped 8-22 for a total price of $368.00 (including shipping to Marietta, GA from Akron, OH). I hope that this full bolt-on kit will only require about one hour to install as yours did. I too will store my stock muffler and tail pipe in my basement for a later day if needed. Thanks again for your help in providing the sound files (.wav) as they helped me in my decision to chose the Flowmaster.
Dustyone
Phil
quart low (below the hatch marked cold area) with
the transmission hot, in park, and engine at idle.
My truck has 4300 miles on it. I think that it came from the factory low on fluid. Dustyone
Clay
pjcav
do we have too much time on our hands? LOL. Will check and get back to you...being that it's important and such...
Dean
Thanks
Leavy
I was also waiting for Obyone to receive his Zummo system to see how that works for him.
Mark
Seems you promised to do something for someone...and you said you'd get back to him asap....hmmm, did you forget?....see topic #2060...post #136... Are you trying to give us rado owners a bad name?....
Dean
I havent been home much the past few days. Sorry fill me in
The asap was it iwht pics??? I have some but not on picturtrail cant do it im just emailing them out
RYan
pat
pat
i noticed in ur photos u have a Z71 hitchware plug in. very nice. i just put in the same one today, very nice cosmetic touch, if i must say so myself. ur truck out of the shop all fixed?
pat
pjcav
My money is with you. I believe its the ambient temperature sensor. First thought it was the impact sensor for the airbags but doesn't fit the description. My $.02.
So you were an Orion driver...boy times have changed. Your old base has been turned over to the State of Hawaii and 90% of the facilities are gone including Paradise West and The Prop Stop. The housing is still being used by military personnel, but no base security of any kind. I believe it was 1 July 99 where NAS Barbers Point was disestablished and 4 squadrons of P3 were moved to Kaneohe MCAS. My company does support work for all branches of the military in Hawaii. Mostly in maintenance of HVAC systems. Recently returned from TDY to Kwajalien...ugh. Well at least part of this post was Silverado related...
Dean