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Comments
Best thing you can do is have the system pressure tested for leakage, and have the used radiator flow-testing for clogging. Also you can have the thermostat checked.
I'm not sure if your car requires a special technique for adding coolant (bleeding air from the system as you fill). You might check into this and if you didn't do that, you can get overheating by having air trapped in the circulatory system.
I should correct myself, the total time it took to get to my destination was 20 minutes. The temperature gauge did not go past mid-point, and while driving there was no indication that there was a problem. The car just started to let off steam/smoke when I parked it and I noticed the pool of coolant underneath the car beside the right front tire.
Is there a hose that is connected from the coolant system to the engine (towards the back of the car)? Because it was suggested that a hose might have burst or that there is a hole in a hose that is connected to the engine.
Did you have the air conditioning on for each time that you described? I'm at a loss, since I know for a fact that the vehicle coolant get's a lot hotter then 60 degrees. So I am assuming you are talking about the air conditioning temperature setting.
You should check (on that car in particular) for a bad head gasket and also have the radiator flow-tested to see if it's all clogged up after all these years and all those miles.
The problem that I am having is the following; If I put the ac switch on any of these selections; max a/c, a/c, symbol that shows air being directed to top and bottom of dash, I will hear a noise that sounds like someone shaking a can of bb's. If I put the same swithch in any other position besides off, I still here the noise(bb's being shaken in a can), but not a intense. This truck has 105,00 miles on it, and everything is all original equipment.
My personal feeling is that its the bearing within the compressor. If I disconnect the wire going to the compressor/clutch assm, I can still hear the noise, but only a little. In all cases the noise is more prevalent at low rpm/idle than at any other rpm.
How can I be sure it is the bearing in the compressor?
If it is the bearing in the compressor, could I fix it myself, or should I purchase a remanufactured/new compressor?
New/remanufactured compressors go for $350.00 and up for this truck, so I want to try and do as much of the work myself.
Also, I have been having to add coolent to the overfill tank. The ac still blows cool air, but I think its just a matter of time before that bearing(if thats what it is) goes up.
In any event, all recommendations/ideas for troubleshooting this problem would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert.
Salisbury, Md. :confuse:
That noise you hear sounds more like a bad AC compressor clutch. We could talk more about that in the Climate Control Forum. This forum is for cooling systems, as in "engine cooling" not car interior cooling.
thanks
Host
That "water" seems to be not the coolent, because the color is not kind of light green (the coolent color); when I touch it, it does not feel like some oil based. Basically, it seems like just be water...
And my coolent reservor is on the driver side.
In addition, seems, just seems to me there is no coolent leak from the radiator or coolent reservor, because coolent reservor is at its max level.
So I wonder whether it is a problem? Because the warranty period will expire in about 2 months, I don't want to wait until next oil change to get it checked.
I appreciate any help here.
I do not believe it is an exterior seal or door leak at all. I can actually watch it either drip or pour from the area in question.
So you have a clog or air in the system would be my guess. Some cooling systems require an air bleed procedure that must be followed---don't know if this is the case with your car however.
Air in the system will definitely cause an overheat, as this interrupts the flow of coolant.
I did not think to check for water movement in radiator to make sure pump and t-stat were working when light problem developed, I had no warning except low coolant light. Never had any problems with coolant loss in 7 tears. This problem only existed for two days.
Tnaks.
I have a 1995 c280 mercedes and it's having a cooling problem every time I park the car it sounds like the engines is boiling over and water comes out he over flow tube from the radiator cap. The temp gauges reads normal and it dose not matter if it's how outside or cold it still loses water. Any ideas?? I just got the car this spring. The electric fans come on and but it never gets hot enough to turn them on normally the gauges all read normal. the car has 220 thousand miles on it.
thanks
However, when I inspected my reservoir the next day, it was already empty. I checked on the radiator and it was still full (green in color). I don't understand it. The reservoir was full when I had it refilled. There was no sign of leak, otherwise, the radiator would have also been empty - but it was still very full.
By the way, I used Jumbo Coolant. It didn't mention about the mixing procedures. But what my mechanic did, was to fill up the reservoir of pure coolant, and then applied 50/50 formulation of coolant and water in the radiator. What went wrong?
I fixed it I got a new radiator cap seems to solve the problem....woohooo
My 1989 Cadillac Brougham (RWD) apopears to have developed a significant coolant leak. The car runs fine and doesn't appear to overheat. I have seen a small puddle of coolant on the floor of my garage and the leak appears to be coming from a spot between the rear edge of the oil pan and the leading edge of the transmission bell housing.
What is wrong?
What are the best-case and worst-case scenarios?
What must be done?
How much will this repair cost?
The car is in otherwise extremely good condition so I want to keep it regardless of it's age. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Do you live in a climate that has freezing temperatures any time of year?
I don't see the classic sign of a blown head gasket - plumes of white smoke. I hope that this isn't, God forbid, a cracked block! I love this car and would foolishly spend a ridiculous sum of money on it regardless of my better judgement.
I wasn't thinking "cracked block" but rather that the freeze plug might have been pushed a little over the years....also, they just corrode over time.
Anyway, maybe you should have your cooling system pressure tested--that often reveals problems. Under pressure, and with the aid of a lift and/or good lighting, you might be able to spot the problem.
I don't drive the car very often. It is garaged and kept covered in a dry environment. It doesn't see snow or rain. Maybe something happened from it sitting so long. My girlfriend's brother from Colorado wanted to see the car so I took it out for the first time since early June. Fortunately, he didn't see the leaking fluid. It would've been embarrassing.
checked thermostat, ok (new)
cheked heater core, okthink i have air trapped in system?
best way to totally flush system?
sounds coming from under dash by heater core?
no leakage.
any suggestions?
Well, look.... chronic overheating is always a TOUGH problem and it needs step by step diagnosis. I could name 20 reasons for overheating, from the obvious to the truly weird. Sounds like you and mechanic have just been throwing parts at it without more methodical thought on the matter.
I'd suggest making sure your cooling fan is going on at the proper time, and if that's okay, a radiator flow test and if that's okay a cylinder leakdown test. Since this is a FAST overheat, it has nothing to do with drips here and there. You can also test your coolant for CO gases (combustion gas in the coolant due to bad head gasket or bad head).
If your radiator wasn't removed and dunked, it wasn't cleaned.