My CRV has 350 miles on it and went on a 100 mile trip Saturday mostly Interstate and reset the mpg indicator at the start of the trip. Was up around 28 to 29 mpg for most of the trip (never drove over 70) dropped back a bit obviously on the steep hills and the few stop and go situations. It looks like a rest stop to rest stop type trip will be above the 30 that they advertise and this has so few miles. Also around my city mpg has not dropped below 24 yet which is a 60/40 with 60 percent being 40 miles and hour or better with few stops. I like this so much better than my prior CRV. Had a RAV 4, Highlander and Pilot in between. I like the size, peppy enough for me, interior and exterior styling (doesn't look like a cracker box with wheels any more) and all the added safety features. It is much quieter that my prior CRV. Gas mileage is going to be great. It is amazing how your mileage may vary depending on how you drive. I also have an Acura TSX and I notice I am always the first one away from a stop light and about 1/2 block ahead of everybody else without even really being aware of it. Now with the Honda I just drive with the traffic and am sure that has helped the gas mileage.
It also has a little lower profile and look which I think makes it more appealing to me anyway. These things are all my opinion as cars are so personal but at least hope this perspective helps. Paid 500.00 under sticker but got an amazing amount for my trade which made me jump on the deal before they changed their mind, ha, ha... Ever see anybody say they bought a car and got a bad deal. The logic I use to buy a car is my logic and that is all that matters.
I then checked the mileage by the gallons I added from delivery when tank was filled by dealer and calculator showed almost 25 so that had 200 miles roughly of mixed driving of the 350 before I filled up again. Your mileage can vary by 10 miles per gallon depending on jack rabbit starts from stop lights and signs etc. It has taken some adjusting on my part as when in the TSX it just seems to be so easy to zoom away but I get about 24mpg avg on that car even driving silly and since I don't have that many stops signs to deal with it does not hurt my mpg that much. I have seen over 34mpg on Interstate with the TSX. It is amazing on the highway but drops off a bunch in the city I am sure because of my driving style.
I have had my 2007 EXL AWD in Whistler Silver Metallic for 9 days. It is hands down a great vehicle for today's type of driving. First tank got 24.5 mpg (60% hiway,40% city). Second tank (just filled up) 25.7 mpg..... sweet !!!!!!!!!
Followup, with 1200 miles on the vehicle, latest MPG was 28.6 p.s the "dancing bars" DO make you a better, more fuel-efficient driver....anyone not interested in that should go ahead and fill up $$$$$$ :shades: and look the other way.............
I started calculating MPG after my first fill-up. I created a spreadsheet in Excel to keep track of all fuel purchases. I've driven a total of 8358 miles with 489.112 gallons. My calculations put my MPG at 17.08811. I drive about 85% city/suburbs and 15% highway. I am absolutely disgusted with the MPG. I have always tried to drive "nicely". I don't accelerate hard and I don't brake hard. I always try to anticipate greens/reds, and stops for cars in front of me. I usually drive right around the speed limit in the city/burbs, and 65-70 on the highway. I prefer to have the sunroof open to running the A/C in the summer, and I try to let the car keep itself warm in the winter. I rarely turn on the heat. I rarely have passengers, and I have maybe 20 pounds of things in the back, including a couple blankets, an emergency care kit, and a few other lightweight items. I've never understood the low number. My last three fill-ups equate to: 469 miles, 33.083 gallons, for 14.176 MPG...absolutely horrendous. I'm getting a new 2006 CR-V SE and I really hope the MPG is a drastic improvement. I'm glad to see so many people getting much better MPG results than I was getting.
You are buying a "new" 2006, not a new 2007? :surprise:
Perhaps your driving skills aren't as good as you think to be getting so much less MPG than those posting here....
BTW, that sunroof open in the Summer? The increased drag, wind resistance, slams your MPG far more than running the AC. And I have never heard of the heater impacting MPG. I assume you aren't married, let alone have kids, right? :P
Yes, I'm buying the last 2006 CR-V the dealer has. There are 175 miles on it. The last I heard, that is still considered new. I loved my 2005, and I don't like the 2007, so I'm getting a 2006.
Perhaps your driving skills aren't as good as you think to be getting so much less MPG than those posting here....
I've been driving for over 20 years. I have a clean driving record. Anyone who has been a passenger in my car has never complained about my driving "skills". Oh, let's see, AND I drive public transportation and no passenger has ever complained about my driving, to me or management. I don't drive my personal vehicle too much differently than I drive at work. So, I can't imagine my driving skills are so much worse than everyone on here who has posted much better MPGs as to justify my low MPG.
BTW, that sunroof open in the Summer? The increased drag, wind resistance, slams your MPG far more than running the AC. And I have never heard of the heater impacting MPG.
I usually had the sunroof in the "tilted up" position, which I thought didn't cause as much drag and wind resistance. If my thinking was wrong, thanks for the tip. As far as the heating part, I've heard that the less you use your A/C and heat, the longer your car could last. So, maybe not using the heat has had no impact on the MPG, but I was hoping it would lead to a longer life for my CR-V.
I assume you aren't married, let alone have kids, right?
Are you implying that not being married and not having kids somehow leads to a vehicle having a low MPG? I never knew that. Next time someone asks how to improve their MPG, I'll be sure to mention that one.
Goodness...maybe late at night, people switch off their sense of humor! Those of us married, are unable to proceed without heat or AC, under penalty of being maimed. :P
I tend to be a bit of a smart-[non-permissible content removed], just ignore it, when in doubt.
The AC unit needs to be run at least every other month or so, for around 5 minutes, in order for the internal lubrication to be moved around. Without doing so, you risk the seals drying out, and a big, very expensive repair job. I have never heard of not using either the heat or AC bringing on longer life, but just the opposite. Running the heater, opening the flow of hot coolant into the heater core, actually inhibits rust.
AC reduces your MPG by about .5 to 1 MPG. Running with the windows down when its hot, adds drag to the car, and reduces your MPG by about the same. Think of those pictures you've seen of a wind tunnel, and the slip stream going around/over the vehicle. They are designed with aerodynamics in mind, windows up. With them open, its much like the drag a parachute creates. So please start using them, and enjoy all of the creature comforts you paid dearly for!
I do have a sense of humor. I guess your first comment about me buying a "new" 2006 seemed a bit sarcastic and set the tone. There are actually still a few of them left! I just don't like the look of the 2007 and I also don't like the way the tailgate opens (up). I had a 2005 and I loved it. Unfortunately, it got totaled when I hit a red light runner. I figured I'd go out and get myself something close to what I had. As it turns out, I'm going from a 2005 EX to a 2006 SE and getting it at a lower price. My payout from the insurance company was actually higher than the price paid for the 2005. I made out on that deal. I didn't say I never use the A/C or heater. I just don't use them 24/7. I also never use either until the car is "warmed up". I've heard that owners of cars with high mileage credit this "waiting" with their car lasting longer. I've never been able to afford a good new car, so I've been driving crappy used cars most of my adult life. I was fortunate to win my 2005, and I'm extremely grateful. I just want the car to last as long as possible, and I'll do whatever I can to achieve that. When I found out the MPG on the 2005 EX was estimated at 22-25, I was happy enough. My average of 17 is extremely disappointing and I was just trying to figure out what could be causing such a low number. When the car was totaled it had 8645 miles on it (in 15 months). Some people have suggested that I never actually broke it in and that could explain the low MPG. But, I still don't understand how it could be so low, and I didn't foresee that a drastic improvement was possible after breaking it in. I'm just hoping the 2006 will perform better.
If you are really getting that low of mileage in your '05 CR-V there could be a problem. That's one reason one should keep track of mileage, it's a great indicator of problems.
However, if your mpg always was low (I think that's what you said) and you've dropped a couple more mpg it really may be your driving style. The CR-V is a brick and in stop and go traffic it's mileage will be low. And it will be even lower in winter. Either way, if the vehicle is still be under warranty I'd have it checked before I traded an almost new vehicle.
AL63017, Curious as to your impressions of the Highlander compared to your new CRV (mpg, comfort, wind-road noise; was the HL awd or fwd?). Also, did you consider the new RAV4-V6? Thanks.
Regardless of your driving ability that ratio will always result in poor millage especially if those city/suburbs millage are of the short barely-warmed up engine vareity.
HL was awd, a little more quiet, 16-17 mpg with 01' V-6, more plush and Lexus like. CRV is more sporty handling, 29-30 mpg on pure highway and about 25mpg 60 hwy/40 city. Owned a 01 Rav 4 also more plush than 2000 crv I had but 07 CRV is real upgrade from 2000 CRV. In St. Louis you might need awd once every 5 years so have not really made that a priority but you would get most of your money back if you bought 4wd. I very well may buy a HL again but wanted all the safety features 07 crv offered that 2001 HL did not have. I like the CRV a bunch but HL would be fine I am sure as well as RAV 4 but did not really like the 07 RAV4.
I also own a Acura TSX and it seems like there is something about the way a Honda steers and rides that I tend to like. HL and RAV 4 were great cars so duhhhhhhhhh you can't go wrong with either one. I just can't really say anything bad about either one other than HL 2001 mpg was not what I wanted when gas goes to $4.00 a gallon again. Also had Honda Pilot and that also was great vehicle that consistently got 20mpg fwd only. It seemed much bigger than HL. Also had Murano which I may have liked better than any of them but put so many miles on cars that I trade in less than two years. Just would not want same car back to back. Murano was a great car also and avg about 20 mpg at best, fwd only. I have never felt I had to have fwd instead of awd had not hurt me in the least when I traded. I have access to dealer auction site so I can see what dealers are paying or selling cars for on National basis and I have always gotten very close or more than these averages. Use Kelly blue book some times but they I think are always low and NADA seems to be high sometimes. But all of this my opinion only.
So don't think you can make a mistake with either one. I find the CRV 4cyl power to actually be pretty zippy when needed. hope it helps
My last three fill-ups equate to: 469 miles, 33.083 gallons, for 14.176 MPG
Did your vehicle spend a lot of time idling, which would contribute zero mpg to your gas average? Or is there any chance of some out-of-the-box problem? Like a dragging emergency brake? A fuel leak? A phantom siphoner? Hope your new ride treats your wallet better.
Unfortunately, we are owners of an 07 AWD EX who have experienced pretty poor mpg. Granted we have not been doing any appreciable highway driving, but our mileage has been about 18 in the first 750 miles on the car. No, we don't speed away from lights, etc., and we got about 26 mpg average on our old '91 Accord wagon. My question is: Is there anything mechanical in the car that would explain this kind of difference from the "expected" mileage?
Was the 91 Accord wagon still been getting 26 mpg.?
Just asking that because I know that we tend to check mileage on new vehicles and once established we kind of let it slide, but use that original as reference.
How similar are the 91 Accord and the 07 CR-V?
Keep in mind the CR-V is heavier, less aerodynamic, AWD, larger engine, more HP, AT where the Accord may have been MT..
Also traffic conditions change. A town near us is 11 miles. I don't believe there were any traffic lights between our town and that one in 1990. Now there are 12-13 depending on destination. We still say it's 10 minutes away. Actually it's more like 20+.
Our old '82ish 1500cc AT Civic wagon averaged 30-32 mpg day in and day out as I drove it loaded with 200+# parts as an outside service rep for IBM.
A Dodge Colt 1600 8Spd MT averaged 35+ mpg under similar conditions. 40+ at posted limits on the road.
A Mitsubishi Montero 5 spd, MT, 4WD, 2600cc (I think) got 16 mpg under same conditions. 14-15 if there was much traffic. 18 highway.
My wife gets 21-23 local driving and 27+/- highway in her 03 AT AWD CR-V. I get 2-3 better driving her car, same conditions. 25-31 for me!
Give your car a chance to break in. Remember that cold engines burn more gas.
Yes, the 91 wagon was still getting 25 - we traded it in against the new CRV. And, yes, the wagon and CRV are different cars, but the promoted mileage is still 22 to 28 and most people on this website have been reporting very good mileage. My wife and I both get similar mileage on the car. The dealership also said "let the car break in for a couple of thousand miles". Nevertheless, others on this site haven't had to do that. Could there be some kind of drag from the emergency brake or an engine problem of some type? We'll be doing some highway driving right after Xmas - maybe that will tell us something more. :confuse:
I have a 2006 which has just under 3,000 miles on it now, and I kind of was thinking my gas mileage was low at a consistent 22 mpg, but I guess that's not too bad compared to 18 mpg. If my gas mileage were that low, I would definitely make the dealer check it out.
Just drove 380 miles from Washington, DC to Buffalo, NY. 27 mpg average according to the Scangauge. The range is 4 mpg (6500 RPM, lol) to 250 mpg (idle down hill in neutral)
First fill was 24.5 mpg, 2nd fill just under 27 mpg mostly interstate at 70mph or a bit faster(me driving) or slower(wife driving). Lot better that the '01 Tribute we traded for the CRV which had barely managed 21 mpg on same trip - but my 330ix BMW does 27mpg on same interstate trip (70 -75mph) and basically 19mpg around town, not bad for a six cylinder autobox that goes like skunk! I attribute BMW's mileage to aerodynamics and run flat tires that have those stiff sidewalls. Too bad Ford/Mazda(Tribute)couldn't achieve better mileage as the basic design is sound but as usual after 6 years ownership the typical domestic problems arise which I'm sure won't present itself in the Honda. This is our 5th Honda over the last 24 years.
That's strange that you're getting that low of gas mileage on 2 different CR-Vs. What are your driving habits like? I have to admit, I'm pretty hard on mine. I tend to accelerate hard and go fast when I can, and I still manage 22 mpg in 80% city/suburb driving and 20% highway. I've consistently gotten this gas mileage even before the break in was complete. I now have 2600 miles on it. I don't know why you would be getting such low gas mileage.
By the way, how do you calculate your gas mileage? And how can you know what gas mileage your getting in each driving condition? I calculate gas mileage each time after filling the tank and can only estimate the total gas mileage, not for each driving condition.
Being totally subjective, of course, I tend to think I don't drive my cars "hard". I don't accelerate hard or fast and I try to anticipate braking and do so gently whenever possible. As I mentioned in an earlier post (#273), I don't get complaints from passengers.
When I got my new vehicle, it had a full tank of gas. I drove mostly city miles until my first fill-up. So I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I drove up to that point.
After my first fill-up, I took a little road trip. It was mostly highway. While I was on the trip, I topped off the tank. I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I had driven since the last fill-up.
That's how I was able to gauge the city vs. highway MPG.
"When I got my new vehicle, it had a full tank of gas. I drove mostly city miles until my first fill-up. So I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I drove up to that point.
After my first fill-up, I took a little road trip. It was mostly highway. While I was on the trip, I topped off the tank. I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I had driven since the last fill-up."
1. The dealer might not have filled the tank completely - disregard that tank.
2. You really need to take the tank almost all the way to "E" to get an accurate MPG. Shorter trips leave too much possibility of putting in more or less gas, and the smaller mileage driven enhances the possibility that the MPG will be wrong.
1. The dealer might not have filled the tank completely - disregard that tank.
I didn't "see" the salesman fill the tank, but he had just gotten back from the gas station when I got there. The "needle" was above the "full" line, so I can only assume the tank was full or close to it.
2. You really need to take the tank almost all the way to "E" to get an accurate MPG. Shorter trips leave too much possibility of putting in more or less gas, and the smaller mileage driven enhances the possibility that the MPG will be wrong.
You don't have to take the tank to "E" to get an accurate MPG calculation. If you can calculate the exact number of miles you drove since your last fill-up, and you know the exact number of gallons it took to fill it up, you can calculate the MPG with reasonable accuracy.
This logic works when you always fill the tank completely. The distance driven since the last fill-up has no effect on your MPG. As long as you always "fill" it, you can calculate your MPG accurately.
I prefer not to wait until the tank is almost empty to fill it up. The last thing I want is to run out of gas.
So, here are my exact numbers since I got the car:
Drive away from the dealership with full or almost full tank: 174 miles on the odometer.
I think the point about filling up on an empty tank is that there is a smaller room for error. Unlike my motorcycles, I do not fill the CRV right up to mouth of the filler neck....thus, a 2/10 gallon error on a 5 gallon fill up is much more critical for accuracy than a 2/10 gallon error on a 12 gallon fill up. Not much, but still a better possibility of an error. On a lighter note, I have checked the mileage on three separate fill ups..........23.75, 24.25, and 23 MPG. All are with a mix of local and highway driving on my '07 CRV AWD EX-L. I think the low MPG for city driving is due to the fact that the CRV weighs about 3500-3600 lbs without a full tank of gas, driver/passenger, etc. and is not as light as one would believe and only has 166 HP to motivate things!! I owned a 1998 Ford Ranger extended cab 4wd pickup that did not weigh this much!! It also did not put the smile on my face like the CRV does though.
I understand what you are trying to get across, but a possible 2/10 gallon "error", as you call it, is negligible in the calculation of the MPG and does not account for my low numbers. Honda claims averages of 22/27. I'm not even close at 15.8/22.1!
In addition, a 2/10 error would not occur in the same +/- direction every time. Essentially, for every 5 fill-ups, you would not have a "1" gallon error.
Over the course of time, and after numerous fill-ups, a possible 2/10 gallon error would be considered such a small number that it wouldn't even be a factor in the overall calculation.
My MPG to date on my 2006 SE is 17.468. My MPG on my 2005 EX was an overall average of 17.088. I arrived at this figure after adding up the miles driven up until my last fill-up (8358) and dividing by the number of gallons put into the car (489.112). If there were a 2/10 gallon "error", the difference in the calculation would be approximately +/-0.01 MPG.
My observations so far are preliminary, to say the least, and I was just expressing my hopes that the numbers improve over time. I am extremely disappointed because, although the car is new and not yet broken in, the numbers are SO low.
I think the point that partial fills will result in less accurate mileage readings has to do with the likely variations in the "fill point" between different fill ups. Those variations matter less when you average them over 12 gallons rather than, say, 4.
I just filled my new CR-V (1500 miles) today. My driving of late has been during cold-weather (25 to 45 degrees) and consisted of mostly very short, 3-4 mile trips. A nasty test of CR-V mileage, I'd say. The dash readout and my math reached identical results, 22.6 mpg. This mileage is terrible compared to our other car, a hybrid Camry, so I drive to maximize mileage.
On a 900 mile freeway trip, I was able to match the hwy rating of 28 mpg by staying around 70 mph. Good luck.
I agree that the gas mileage on the CRVs is not great....our 2005 Altima 3.5 with 250HP is 23-24MPG locally and 28-30MPG on a trip and that car rips!! It also weighs only about 250 lbs less than the CRV. I also own a '04 Honda ST1300 sport touring motorcycle and the MPG is 10-20% less in the winter while using the winter blends gasoline....I am hoping the CRV does better with a few miles on it and when the gasoline is not the winter blend.
You are posing the same argument as others and I still don't agree that "partial" fill-ups affect MPG in any significant manner, if at all.
Hypothetical example: Every time I fill up, I get 5.000 gallons. In a previous example, a 2/10 gallon error would indicate I'm actually getting 4.800 or 5.200 gallons. This might affect the MPG in a very small manner on EACH fill-up (1 MPG or less), but over time, the MPG will NOT be affected in any negligible manner (+/-0.01 MPG at 8358 miles).
The best method I can think of to calculate MPG is to take the overall miles driven and divide that number by the total number of gallons put into the car. Any so-called "errors" will average out in the long run, so I just can't understand how that can be held as a valid argument.
Again, I only listed my preliminary numbers as just that: preliminary. I know that my average MPG will change over time, but changing from my current numbers to the Honda numbers seems like quite a stretch.
Even if I agreed with the "partial fill" argument, I don't understand the large discrepancy in numbers. Any "variation" in fill points does not explain why my numbers are so much lower than 1) Honda's claims and 2) others' averages.
If my averages, so far, were 21/26, I wouldn't be disappointed. I'd actually be pretty happy. Instead, my numbers are 15.8/22.1. So, I don't understand how any slight "variation" in fill points can account for a difference of 5 MPG.
**So, again, I'm getting a lower/LOW MPG because I fill-up before my tank is empty?
Whether or not the numbers are "great", my problem is the drastic difference between my numbers and those that others are getting, and what Honda claims.
My 2005 EX got terrible gas mileage as well and I drove that year-round. I looked at my spreadsheet and there was no significant variation in MPG from one season to the next. So the winter blend really didn't have a huge impact on my numbers.
The best method I can think of to calculate MPG is to take the overall miles driven and divide that number by the total number of gallons put into the car.
I agree. However, one must be fastidious in recording the data!
Every time I get gas, I get a receipt and write the odometer reading on it. I then enter the info into a spreadsheet. I get the MPG per fill-up and the overall MPG since I got the car.
I've cut back to three decimal points (filled up the Outback today with 10.003 gallons on the pump readout). :shades: :shades:
Btw, for consistency, I try to call it full when the automatic pump first clicks off (although it hard to resist the temptation to cram another quarter's worth of gas in there). That'll help avoid check engine lights too since there's less risk of getting gas or vapors into the evaporative system.
Gotta be a sound and steady reason that you are getting worse mileage than the rest of the world on 2 vehicles. You are going to have to be a detective.
I agree, the more gas it takes for a fill up, the less the errors will affect that particular fill up. Over a period of several fill ups the errors sort/average themselves out.
As you have somewhat acknowledged, driving habits can be a real killer of MPG. Tailgating, accelerating right up to traffic signals and signs, Rapid acceleration, excessive speed, etc., short trips involving cold engines, heavy traffic, lots of idling, all contribute to poor mileage. I get 2-3 MPG better across the board than my wife. She drives from here to there. I enjoy the "GET the best mileage you can" game.
Someone sipping a little gas for their car, motorcycle, lawn mower or just to "razz" you???
Particular type/brand of gas. (Don't burn premium. 87 works just fine)
If both cars came from the same dealer, their "GET READY" folks may not be tending to business as they should.
Quick story! Our 03 Pilot had always gotten good mileage. Equal and usually better than advertised. 17-18 local and 25-28 highway. One day I noticed the overall was down about 3-4 MPG. And had been down for several weeks. Some detective worked disclosed the drop took place after having the battery disconnected.
As pointed out by someone on the Pilot forum, Part of the "GET READY" for Hondas involves something called the IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE (ILP). It is supposed to be done at the dealership as part of preparing the car for delivery to the customer. It is also supposed to be done whenever, the battery is replaced, goes dead, is disconnected, or one of a couple of fuses is pulled.
I did the ILP, filled the tank and the mileage returned. Actually got near a +1 over the previous "GOOD" mileage. Others have had similar results. Others have seen no difference. If it was done at the dealer, doing it again probably won't do anything. But it won't hurt anything either. IT IS PART OF GET READY!
One guy said his dealer told him it would not affect mileage. It only affected Idle quality. Yet when he did it himself, he got an improvement.
Coincidence? Maybe...
We got our CR-V shortly after getting the Pilot back on track. Within the 1st week I did ILP on the CR-V just in case the dealer had not!
Gotta keep in mind the Altima is a lot better in the aerodynamic department that the CR-V.
Gotta agree with ya also. Here is why!
Our Pilot is roughly a thousand pounds heavier than our CR-V. 3.5LTR vs 2.4LTR..240 HP vs 160 HP..Pilot has larger frontal and overall area to move through the air.
Yet under similar driving conditions, for us, there is a 3-4 MPG CR-V advantage local, and 2+/- CR-V advantage Highway at posted limits.
Seems the RAV-4 V6 and I4 mileage ratings are pretty close. Saturn VUE 2.2 LTR 4 is rated 22-27. With the Pilot 3.5 V6, it is 20-28.... :confuse:
Your experience is intriguing, especially since we are getting such bad mileage on our 07 CRV (18-19). How do you perform the ILP and do you need special equipment for doing so? Tx.
I just filled up. 321 miles total, about 225 was highway 70 mph with a big skibox on top. The rest was errands around the suburbs over the course of 2 weeks. Mileage was 24.97. I'd say that's right on the EPA numbers of 21/26.
By the way, had the car service today (10,000) miles and had the iPOD connector installed. I asked the service tech about the ILP. He said it should reset itself when the battery is disconnected, but on occasion it doesn't. He also said that if you it doesn't there would be other issues liket he auto up window feature wouldn't work. He seemed like he knew what he was saying, but who knows.
The same I just had my 10,000 oil change three days ago and just returned from a 746 mile trip in dry, wet and snowy conditions with speeds from 30mph to 80mph total 31 gallons used for a 24.06 average. I Have seen 25-27 0n some trips I also had the i-POD connector installed a few months back and now dont even use the cd any more.
Hey MNF - can you point me to info that will help operate the ipod? I can adjust volume and go to the next song, but are the other functions I don't know about?
The Idle Learn Procedure may not help you at all. However, It only takes a few minutes to do and and can't hurt anything as it is part of the Honda new car get ready. A 10mm wrench or adjustable works good.
Easy version:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch.
Disconnect the negative (Black) battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect battery cable. (**)
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds,................ then start car.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. (It will take longer in colder weather.)
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. After the second cycle let it idle an additional 10 minutes. (The fans will probably cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.)
Here is a TIP: No reason to stand around waiting for those 1st 2 fan cycles. After re connecting the battery cable (**) above. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. and start the car. Go back in the house and do something for a half hour or so. Give it a chance to warm up. Then go back out and listen or watch for the fans to cycle twice. Then go back in the house and let it idle that additional ten minutes.
It doesn't matter if you missed "SEEING" the very first two cycles. The important thing is that it got AT LEAST 2 fan cycles and the additional 10 minutes, and any cycles that may have occurred during that additional 10 minutes.
Then: Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
To reset driver window:
Turn on ignition switch. Get the window to the top.
Push down and hold driver window button including that extra little "AUTO" click
Continue to hold an additional 2 seconds after window stops at the bottom.
Pull up the switch including the "AUTO" click and hold up an additional 2 seconds after window reaches top and stops moving.
Did you get a disc ( Honda TTS )with your unit if so make sure that you download it on a computer and hook up your i-Pod to update it. I have still playing with mine but I have figured out a few things. The manual that came with do you have that ? if not I can e-mail it to you.
Comments
I like this so much better than my prior CRV. Had a RAV 4, Highlander and Pilot in between. I like the size, peppy enough for me, interior and exterior styling (doesn't look like a cracker box with wheels any more) and all the added safety features. It is much quieter that my prior CRV. Gas mileage is going to be great. It is amazing how your mileage may vary depending on how you drive. I also have an Acura TSX and I notice I am always the first one away from a stop light and about 1/2 block ahead of everybody else without even really being aware of it. Now with the Honda I just drive with the traffic and am sure that has helped the gas mileage.
It also has a little lower profile and look which I think makes it more appealing to me anyway. These things are all my opinion as cars are so personal but at least hope this perspective helps. Paid 500.00 under sticker but got an amazing amount for my trade which made me jump on the deal before they changed their mind, ha, ha... Ever see anybody say they bought a car and got a bad deal. The logic I use to buy a car is my logic and that is all that matters.
I then checked the mileage by the gallons I added from delivery when tank was filled by dealer and calculator showed almost 25 so that had 200 miles roughly of mixed driving of the 350 before I filled up again. Your mileage can vary by 10 miles per gallon depending on jack rabbit starts from stop lights and signs etc. It has taken some adjusting on my part as when in the TSX it just seems to be so easy to zoom away but I get about 24mpg avg on that car even driving silly and since I don't have that many stops signs to deal with it does not hurt my mpg that much. I have seen over 34mpg on Interstate with the TSX. It is amazing on the highway but drops off a bunch in the city I am sure because of my driving style.
Followup, with 1200 miles on the vehicle, latest MPG was 28.6 p.s the "dancing bars" DO make you a better, more fuel-efficient driver....anyone not interested in that should go ahead and fill up $$$$$$ :shades: and look the other way.............
27.9 according to trip computer, some wind and driving 69-71 miles an hour.
688 miles on car at this posting.
I like the CRV a bunch---
I am absolutely disgusted with the MPG. I have always tried to drive "nicely". I don't accelerate hard and I don't brake hard. I always try to anticipate greens/reds, and stops for cars in front of me. I usually drive right around the speed limit in the city/burbs, and 65-70 on the highway. I prefer to have the sunroof open to running the A/C in the summer, and I try to let the car keep itself warm in the winter. I rarely turn on the heat. I rarely have passengers, and I have maybe 20 pounds of things in the back, including a couple blankets, an emergency care kit, and a few other lightweight items.
I've never understood the low number.
My last three fill-ups equate to: 469 miles, 33.083 gallons, for 14.176 MPG...absolutely horrendous.
I'm getting a new 2006 CR-V SE and I really hope the MPG is a drastic improvement.
I'm glad to see so many people getting much better MPG results than I was getting.
Perhaps your driving skills aren't as good as you think to be getting so much less MPG than those posting here....
BTW, that sunroof open in the Summer? The increased drag, wind resistance, slams your MPG far more than running the AC. And I have never heard of the heater impacting MPG. I assume you aren't married, let alone have kids, right? :P
Yes, I'm buying the last 2006 CR-V the dealer has. There are 175 miles on it. The last I heard, that is still considered new. I loved my 2005, and I don't like the 2007, so I'm getting a 2006.
Perhaps your driving skills aren't as good as you think to be getting so much less MPG than those posting here....
I've been driving for over 20 years. I have a clean driving record. Anyone who has been a passenger in my car has never complained about my driving "skills". Oh, let's see, AND I drive public transportation and no passenger has ever complained about my driving, to me or management. I don't drive my personal vehicle too much differently than I drive at work. So, I can't imagine my driving skills are so much worse than everyone on here who has posted much better MPGs as to justify my low MPG.
BTW, that sunroof open in the Summer? The increased drag, wind resistance, slams your MPG far more than running the AC. And I have never heard of the heater impacting MPG.
I usually had the sunroof in the "tilted up" position, which I thought didn't cause as much drag and wind resistance. If my thinking was wrong, thanks for the tip.
As far as the heating part, I've heard that the less you use your A/C and heat, the longer your car could last. So, maybe not using the heat has had no impact on the MPG, but I was hoping it would lead to a longer life for my CR-V.
I assume you aren't married, let alone have kids, right?
Are you implying that not being married and not having kids somehow leads to a vehicle having a low MPG? I never knew that. Next time someone asks how to improve their MPG, I'll be sure to mention that one.
I tend to be a bit of a smart-[non-permissible content removed], just ignore it, when in doubt.
The AC unit needs to be run at least every other month or so, for around 5 minutes, in order for the internal lubrication to be moved around. Without doing so, you risk the seals drying out, and a big, very expensive repair job. I have never heard of not using either the heat or AC bringing on longer life, but just the opposite. Running the heater, opening the flow of hot coolant into the heater core, actually inhibits rust.
AC reduces your MPG by about .5 to 1 MPG. Running with the windows down when its hot, adds drag to the car, and reduces your MPG by about the same. Think of those pictures you've seen of a wind tunnel, and the slip stream going around/over the vehicle. They are designed with aerodynamics in mind, windows up. With them open, its much like the drag a parachute creates. So please start using them, and enjoy all of the creature comforts you paid dearly for!
I had a 2005 and I loved it. Unfortunately, it got totaled when I hit a red light runner. I figured I'd go out and get myself something close to what I had. As it turns out, I'm going from a 2005 EX to a 2006 SE and getting it at a lower price. My payout from the insurance company was actually higher than the price paid for the 2005. I made out on that deal.
I didn't say I never use the A/C or heater. I just don't use them 24/7. I also never use either until the car is "warmed up". I've heard that owners of cars with high mileage credit this "waiting" with their car lasting longer.
I've never been able to afford a good new car, so I've been driving crappy used cars most of my adult life. I was fortunate to win my 2005, and I'm extremely grateful. I just want the car to last as long as possible, and I'll do whatever I can to achieve that. When I found out the MPG on the 2005 EX was estimated at 22-25, I was happy enough. My average of 17 is extremely disappointing and I was just trying to figure out what could be causing such a low number.
When the car was totaled it had 8645 miles on it (in 15 months). Some people have suggested that I never actually broke it in and that could explain the low MPG. But, I still don't understand how it could be so low, and I didn't foresee that a drastic improvement was possible after breaking it in. I'm just hoping the 2006 will perform better.
However, if your mpg always was low (I think that's what you said) and you've dropped a couple more mpg it really may be your driving style. The CR-V is a brick and in stop and go traffic it's mileage will be low. And it will be even lower in winter. Either way, if the vehicle is still be under warranty I'd have it checked before I traded an almost new vehicle.
I will keep your advice in mind if I have the same issue with my new CR-V. Thank you.
Regardless of your driving ability that ratio will always result in poor millage especially if those city/suburbs millage are of the short barely-warmed up engine vareity.
Owned a 01 Rav 4 also more plush than 2000 crv I had but 07 CRV is real upgrade from 2000 CRV. In St. Louis you might need awd once every 5 years so have not really made that a priority but you would get most of your money back if you bought 4wd.
I very well may buy a HL again but wanted all the safety features 07 crv offered that 2001 HL did not have.
I like the CRV a bunch but HL would be fine I am sure as well as RAV 4 but did not really like the 07 RAV4.
I also own a Acura TSX and it seems like there is something about the way a Honda steers and rides that I tend to like.
HL and RAV 4 were great cars so duhhhhhhhhh you can't go wrong with either one. I just can't really say anything bad about either one other than HL 2001 mpg was not what I wanted when gas goes to $4.00 a gallon again. Also had Honda Pilot and that also was great vehicle that consistently got 20mpg fwd only. It seemed much bigger than HL.
Also had Murano which I may have liked better than any of them but put so many miles on cars that I trade in less than two years. Just would not want same car back to back.
Murano was a great car also and avg about 20 mpg at best, fwd only. I have never felt I had to have fwd instead of awd had not hurt me in the least when I traded. I have access to dealer auction site so I can see what dealers are paying or selling cars for on National basis and I have always gotten very close or more than these averages. Use Kelly blue book some times but they I think are always low and NADA seems to be high sometimes. But all of this my opinion only.
So don't think you can make a mistake with either one. I find the CRV 4cyl power to actually be pretty zippy when needed. hope it helps
Did your vehicle spend a lot of time idling, which would contribute zero mpg to your gas average? Or is there any chance of some out-of-the-box problem? Like a dragging emergency brake? A fuel leak? A phantom siphoner? Hope your new ride treats your wallet better.
Just asking that because I know that we tend to check mileage on new vehicles and once established we kind of let it slide, but use that original as reference.
How similar are the 91 Accord and the 07 CR-V?
Keep in mind the CR-V is heavier, less aerodynamic, AWD, larger engine, more HP, AT where the Accord may have been MT..
Also traffic conditions change. A town near us is 11 miles. I don't believe there were any traffic lights between our town and that one in 1990. Now there are 12-13 depending on destination. We still say it's 10 minutes away. Actually it's more like 20+.
Our old '82ish 1500cc AT Civic wagon averaged 30-32 mpg day in and day out as I drove it loaded with 200+# parts as an outside service rep for IBM.
A Dodge Colt 1600 8Spd MT averaged 35+ mpg under similar conditions. 40+ at posted limits on the road.
A Mitsubishi Montero 5 spd, MT, 4WD, 2600cc (I think) got 16 mpg under same conditions. 14-15 if there was much traffic. 18 highway.
My wife gets 21-23 local driving and 27+/- highway in her 03 AT AWD CR-V. I get 2-3 better driving her car, same conditions. 25-31 for me!
Give your car a chance to break in. Remember that cold engines burn more gas.
Hang in there, ya done good!
Kip
I got a 2006 SE two weeks ago and just hit 500 miles.
So far, with 60% city and 40% highway, I've gotten 15.8 MPG city and 22.1 MPG highway, for an average of 17.47 MPG.
I know I need to "break" the car in, but this is extremely frustrating and disappointing already. I really hope the numbers improve over time.
Too bad Ford/Mazda(Tribute)couldn't achieve better mileage as the basic design is sound but as usual after 6 years ownership the typical domestic problems arise which I'm sure won't present itself in the Honda. This is our 5th Honda over the last 24 years.
By the way, how do you calculate your gas mileage? And how can you know what gas mileage your getting in each driving condition? I calculate gas mileage each time after filling the tank and can only estimate the total gas mileage, not for each driving condition.
When I got my new vehicle, it had a full tank of gas. I drove mostly city miles until my first fill-up. So I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I drove up to that point.
After my first fill-up, I took a little road trip. It was mostly highway. While I was on the trip, I topped off the tank. I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I had driven since the last fill-up.
That's how I was able to gauge the city vs. highway MPG.
Again, I really hope the numbers improve.
After my first fill-up, I took a little road trip. It was mostly highway. While I was on the trip, I topped off the tank. I divided the number of gallons it took to fill the tank by the number of miles I had driven since the last fill-up."
1. The dealer might not have filled the tank completely - disregard that tank.
2. You really need to take the tank almost all the way to "E" to get an accurate MPG. Shorter trips leave too much possibility of putting in more or less gas, and the smaller mileage driven enhances the possibility that the MPG will be wrong.
I didn't "see" the salesman fill the tank, but he had just gotten back from the gas station when I got there. The "needle" was above the "full" line, so I can only assume the tank was full or close to it.
2. You really need to take the tank almost all the way to "E" to get an accurate MPG. Shorter trips leave too much possibility of putting in more or less gas, and the smaller mileage driven enhances the possibility that the MPG will be wrong.
You don't have to take the tank to "E" to get an accurate MPG calculation. If you can calculate the exact number of miles you drove since your last fill-up, and you know the exact number of gallons it took to fill it up, you can calculate the MPG with reasonable accuracy.
This logic works when you always fill the tank completely. The distance driven since the last fill-up has no effect on your MPG. As long as you always "fill" it, you can calculate your MPG accurately.
I prefer not to wait until the tank is almost empty to fill it up. The last thing I want is to run out of gas.
So, here are my exact numbers since I got the car:
Drive away from the dealership with full or almost full tank: 174 miles on the odometer.
1st fill-up: odometer=372, gallons=12.534, MPG=(372-174)/12.534=198/12.534=15.797 MPG (mostly city)
2nd fill-up (top off): odometer=472, gallons=4.526, MPG=(472-372)/4.526=100/4.526=22.095 MPG (mostly highway)
**So, by your logic, I'm getting a lower MPG because I fill up before the tank is empty? Please elaborate, because I just don't get it.
In addition, a 2/10 error would not occur in the same +/- direction every time. Essentially, for every 5 fill-ups, you would not have a "1" gallon error.
Over the course of time, and after numerous fill-ups, a possible 2/10 gallon error would be considered such a small number that it wouldn't even be a factor in the overall calculation.
My MPG to date on my 2006 SE is 17.468. My MPG on my 2005 EX was an overall average of 17.088. I arrived at this figure after adding up the miles driven up until my last fill-up (8358) and dividing by the number of gallons put into the car (489.112). If there were a 2/10 gallon "error", the difference in the calculation would be approximately +/-0.01 MPG.
My observations so far are preliminary, to say the least, and I was just expressing my hopes that the numbers improve over time. I am extremely disappointed because, although the car is new and not yet broken in, the numbers are SO low.
I just filled my new CR-V (1500 miles) today. My driving of late has been during cold-weather (25 to 45 degrees) and consisted of mostly very short, 3-4 mile trips. A nasty test of CR-V mileage, I'd say. The dash readout and my math reached identical results, 22.6 mpg. This mileage is terrible compared to our other car, a hybrid Camry, so I drive to maximize mileage.
On a 900 mile freeway trip, I was able to match the hwy rating of 28 mpg by staying around 70 mph. Good luck.
I agree that the gas mileage on the CRVs is not great....our 2005 Altima 3.5 with 250HP is 23-24MPG locally and 28-30MPG on a trip and that car rips!! It also weighs only about 250 lbs less than the CRV. I also own a '04 Honda ST1300 sport touring motorcycle and the MPG is 10-20% less in the winter while using the winter blends gasoline....I am hoping the CRV does better with a few miles on it and when the gasoline is not the winter blend.
Dennis
Hypothetical example: Every time I fill up, I get 5.000 gallons. In a previous example, a 2/10 gallon error would indicate I'm actually getting 4.800 or 5.200 gallons. This might affect the MPG in a very small manner on EACH fill-up (1 MPG or less), but over time, the MPG will NOT be affected in any negligible manner (+/-0.01 MPG at 8358 miles).
The best method I can think of to calculate MPG is to take the overall miles driven and divide that number by the total number of gallons put into the car. Any so-called "errors" will average out in the long run, so I just can't understand how that can be held as a valid argument.
Again, I only listed my preliminary numbers as just that: preliminary. I know that my average MPG will change over time, but changing from my current numbers to the Honda numbers seems like quite a stretch.
Even if I agreed with the "partial fill" argument, I don't understand the large discrepancy in numbers. Any "variation" in fill points does not explain why my numbers are so much lower than 1) Honda's claims and 2) others' averages.
If my averages, so far, were 21/26, I wouldn't be disappointed. I'd actually be pretty happy. Instead, my numbers are 15.8/22.1. So, I don't understand how any slight "variation" in fill points can account for a difference of 5 MPG.
**So, again, I'm getting a lower/LOW MPG because I fill-up before my tank is empty?
My 2005 EX got terrible gas mileage as well and I drove that year-round. I looked at my spreadsheet and there was no significant variation in MPG from one season to the next. So the winter blend really didn't have a huge impact on my numbers.
I agree. However, one must be fastidious in recording the data!
tidester, host
Every time I get gas, I get a receipt and write the odometer reading on it. I then enter the info into a spreadsheet. I get the MPG per fill-up and the overall MPG since I got the car.
tidester, host
Btw, for consistency, I try to call it full when the automatic pump first clicks off (although it hard to resist the temptation to cram another quarter's worth of gas in there). That'll help avoid check engine lights too since there's less risk of getting gas or vapors into the evaporative system.
And I tried so hard to protect your anonymity!
tidester, host
But, I do usually round it to the nearest tenth.. I'm not anal about it.. :surprise:
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I agree, the more gas it takes for a fill up, the less the errors will affect that particular fill up. Over a period of several fill ups the errors sort/average themselves out.
As you have somewhat acknowledged, driving habits can be a real killer of MPG. Tailgating, accelerating right up to traffic signals and signs, Rapid acceleration, excessive speed, etc., short trips involving cold engines, heavy traffic, lots of idling, all contribute to poor mileage.
I get 2-3 MPG better across the board than my wife. She drives from here to there. I enjoy the "GET the best mileage you can" game.
Someone sipping a little gas for their car, motorcycle, lawn mower or just to "razz" you???
Particular type/brand of gas. (Don't burn premium. 87 works just fine)
If both cars came from the same dealer, their "GET READY" folks may not be tending to business as they should.
Quick story!
Our 03 Pilot had always gotten good mileage. Equal and usually better than advertised. 17-18 local and 25-28 highway. One day I noticed the overall was down about 3-4 MPG. And had been down for several weeks. Some detective worked disclosed the drop took place after having the battery disconnected.
As pointed out by someone on the Pilot forum, Part of the "GET READY" for Hondas involves something called the IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE (ILP). It is supposed to be done at the dealership as part of preparing the car for delivery to the customer. It is also supposed to be done whenever, the battery is replaced, goes dead, is disconnected, or one of a couple of fuses is pulled.
I did the ILP, filled the tank and the mileage returned. Actually got near a +1 over the previous "GOOD" mileage.
Others have had similar results. Others have seen no difference. If it was done at the dealer, doing it again probably won't do anything. But it won't hurt anything either. IT IS PART OF GET READY!
One guy said his dealer told him it would not affect mileage. It only affected Idle quality. Yet when he did it himself, he got an improvement.
Coincidence? Maybe...
We got our CR-V shortly after getting the Pilot back on track. Within the 1st week I did ILP on the CR-V just in case the dealer had not!
Kip
Gotta agree with ya also. Here is why!
Our Pilot is roughly a thousand pounds heavier than our CR-V. 3.5LTR vs 2.4LTR..240 HP vs 160 HP..Pilot has larger frontal and overall area to move through the air.
Yet under similar driving conditions, for us, there is a 3-4 MPG CR-V advantage local, and 2+/- CR-V advantage Highway at posted limits.
Seems the RAV-4 V6 and I4 mileage ratings are pretty close.
Saturn VUE 2.2 LTR 4 is rated 22-27. With the Pilot 3.5 V6, it is 20-28.... :confuse:
Are ya listening HONDA!!!!!
Kip
By the way, had the car service today (10,000) miles and had the iPOD connector installed. I asked the service tech about the ILP. He said it should reset itself when the battery is disconnected, but on occasion it doesn't. He also said that if you it doesn't there would be other issues liket he auto up window feature wouldn't work. He seemed like he knew what he was saying, but who knows.
Mark
MNF
Hey MNF - can you point me to info that will help operate the ipod? I can adjust volume and go to the next song, but are the other functions I don't know about?
M
Here ya go!
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x02-029e.pdf
It is on the left side of page 3.
The Idle Learn Procedure may not help you at all. However, It only takes a few minutes to do and and can't hurt anything as it is part of the Honda new car get ready. A 10mm wrench or adjustable works good.
Easy version:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch.
Disconnect the negative (Black) battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect battery cable. (**)
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds,................ then start car.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. (It will take longer in colder weather.)
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. After the second cycle let it idle an additional 10 minutes.
(The fans will probably cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.)
Here is a TIP: No reason to stand around waiting for those 1st 2 fan cycles. After re connecting the battery cable (**) above. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. and start the car. Go back in the house and do something for a half hour or so. Give it a chance to warm up. Then go back out and listen or watch for the fans to cycle twice. Then go back in the house and let it idle that additional ten minutes.
It doesn't matter if you missed "SEEING" the very first two cycles. The important thing is that it got AT LEAST 2 fan cycles and the additional 10 minutes, and any cycles that may have occurred during that additional 10 minutes.
Then: Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
To reset driver window:
Turn on ignition switch. Get the window to the top.
Push down and hold driver window button including that extra little "AUTO" click
Continue to hold an additional 2 seconds after window stops at the bottom.
Pull up the switch including the "AUTO" click and hold up an additional 2 seconds after window reaches top and stops moving.
Release the switch.
Now "auto window" should be working.
Kip
MNF