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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVI

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  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    My moms 2000 blazer was aligned 3 times the first month (20 days) they bought it. Their excuse was

    1. Road curvature
    2. Wind
    3. Nothing wrong at all

    After they aligned it the first time it pulled to the opposite side.

    After about 2500 mls the truck "loosened up" and hasnt pulled since.
    Ryan
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    custom, sleek looking Silverado with no gaudy emblems and only 2 easily removed 1500 decals. These are in short supply - they are called base Silverados. Hurry before Chevrolet runs out of those powerful, gas saving vortec V6s. I'm glad I got mine before the big gasoline price hikes.
  • trucks4me2trucks4me2 Member Posts: 31
    GM has had these in the trucks for years. They are used during the assembly process to quickly align the vehicle. Getting an alignment done doesn't necessarily mean the knockouts have been removed. If only the "toe-in" is out of adjustment when the vehicle is checked then the knockouts aren't removed. You need to have the
    camber or caster adjustment done which requires the knockouts to be taken out. Usually costs $30-40 extra for both sides. BTW Camber and Caster don't normally go out of adjustment unless you hit something big. Toe-in/out can go bad very easily. My 2cents worth!!

    Stan
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ....and while I feel no shakes or pulls....I'm gonna have the wheels balanced and front end aligned for the first time pretty soon here...

    .....and not at the dealer either...

    - Tim
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    oby...
    sorry...wasn't trying to holler at you. maybe your friend can hook me up too, if i'm willing to pay (less than $9!!!) S&H? i was just pi$$ed...

    bco
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    The HD trucks use different transfer cases than the 1500 and 2500. That is why Autotrac is not available. This info is off of thedieselpage.com, those guys have a wealth of information on every aspect of these trucks. According to what I read there, the 2500HD uses a different case than the 2500, and the 3500 uses another more beefed up case. I don't know if Autotrac isn't compatible with the different cases, or if it is a supplier deal like was mentioned. It would not surprise me if Autotrac becomes an option later on. Maybe they just need time to integrate the system with the new transfer cases?

    WarrantyGold question...What topic did you find answers through? I had a different non-GM warranty on my old truck and the experience sucked. It was like pulling teeth to get them to do anything. It is a hassle for the service dealer to get authorization for work. The company I had was bought and sold so many times that it was difficult to keep track of the phone number changes. They also pulled crap like wanting to use there own rebuilt alternator, which they would have to ship in while my truck sat at the dealer for days waiting, etc. Real stupid crap like that. I'd say I did get my money out of it before all the BS started, but I sure would not buy another non-GM warranty. The kicker is, the dealer pawned this one off on us as if it was a GM warranty. What a pain. I hope WarrantyGold is better, but I would talk to as many people as you can about them first. Do the years and miles start when you buy it, or just the years?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Xtreme dean not extreme. im kinda sad i cant do it. The x is way to big.

    Ryan
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Your pictures showed a 5.3L engine. That was only available in the standard 2500, not the 2500HD which came only with the 6.0L. That truck is currently called the 2500, because the 2500HD is the new 9200 lb GVWR model. That is why I called the old standard 2500 the 2500LD.

    The only way to get a 5.3L in a 2500 was the 7200 lb LD version, only in 2WD.

    All the other 2500s were 8600 lb GVWR. I believe that was option C6P.

    Mike L
  • steelworkersteelworker Member Posts: 23
    I own a 2000 V6 silverado with 8000k since the time I drove it home I notice a rear end noise when going up hill as well as a drop in speed also it will make the same noise when the speed goes from 50 to 60 mph.the problem is that it doesnt do it all the time sometimes it wont do it all day other times it will do it 3 to 4xs in a drive same roads etc . I been back to the dealer 2xs he first said i needed to drive it in 3rd gear around town ,to make a long story short I have demanded that they check it out .Anybody out there have the same noise I would like to know before they check my truck out on 10 -17 -00
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I found WarrantyGold at topic 12 under Finance, Warranty, etc.

    It has alot of good post and not so good post. It was apparent, in the being of the topic, that edmunds and WarrantyGold were in bed together. But I think Edmunds parted ways....don't know for sure because I haven't got that far in my reading.

    I also noted that Edmunds sensored alot of post by people asking WarrantyGold very direct and pointed questions... those people mysteriously disappeared.

    John
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    My truck is the Y2K C2500 2 wd version w/LS package, I went that root only because I could'nt get the 1/2 ton w/the options I wanted including the 5.3. As it turned out it was a VERY wise decision, and yes the 5.3 was standard, since I have not had any of the problems I've been reading related to the 1/2 ton units whether 2wd or 4wd. The only HD units available in 2000 were the old c/k versions prior to the Silverado make over. Now for 2001 thats all changed.

    Ray T.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    The 8600 lb GVWR 2500HD Silverado was available in 99 and 2000, in addition to 2001. The 7200 lb GVWR 2500 (w/5.3L is not available for 2001).

    If I had been able to order a 5.3L engine in my 2500HD 4x4 I would have. But, the only choice was the 6.0L.

    I have both a 1500 (99) and a 2500 (00) and find the 2500 to be a very good truck. Much more truck like than the 1500.

    Mike L
    1999 Silverado 1500 4x4 Reg Cab Longbed 4.8L 5spd
    2000 Silverado 2500 4x4 Reg Cab Longbed 6.0L 5spd
  • hawgdawghawgdawg Member Posts: 24
    Wasn't it Kyle that had 285/75's on his stock truck with no lift. I'm sure I've seen them around and it looked like there was no lift but was just wondering.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    on a 4x4 rado, the largest tire size that will fit without rubbing is 285/75R16.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    No apology necessary. I was kinda laughing that you thought you were ordering from GM. I also thought the same thing until I read the fine print. If you take the part number and call the local GM dealers, you may have better luck and no air freight charges... ;)

    Dean
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    thanks...damn, it's just been a rough two days.

    hawgdawg...if, in referring to kyle, you're referring to me, no, i don't have 285's. i have lt265 duelers.

    www.picturetrail.com/bco

    bco
  • hawgdawghawgdawg Member Posts: 24
    It was eluded to that the mileage on the Firestones can be pro-rated and they can be traded in???? I just talked to a Firestone dealer here and he said "no" they weren't doing that and even checked with some "corporate" Firestone folks.

    I saw a letter that seemed to indicate they would do this but does anyone know the real scoop?
  • hawgdawghawgdawg Member Posts: 24
    I was hit by a drunk driver (with no license, no insurance) a few weeks ago in my 2000 Silverado LS Z71. The truck was totaled by my insurance company. They gave me $29000 for it with 7000k miles which is $600 more then I paid new.

    I now have a 2001 with more options (power seats, dimming mirror with compass, thermometer; and locking rear diff) and came out $100 ahead.

    Anyway...it worked out but what a pain. My old truck had 265/75 Michelin's so I'm struggling with keeping these Firestones but don't want to fork out a bunch of money for them.
  • pjb0422pjb0422 Member Posts: 43
    According to my receipt, the technician removed the alignment knockouts, adjusted caster and camber and toe-in on both sides. The steering wheel is close to being centered (bowtie horizontal) and the truck doesn't pull to the left. Let's see how long this lasts.

    hawgdawg - I traded my deathstones in for the bridgestones. My local FS dealer said he couldn't do anything for my non-recall tires until I showed him the letter from Christine Karbowiak. Here is the link: http://www.bridgestone-firestone.com/news/consumer/news/00803a.html. After he saw the letter he said that he would pro-rate my tires for new ones. Print off the letter and show your dealer.

    Phil
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    DId u get the email i sent with that letter? Duh it states clearly if you dont feel safe they will PRORATE your tires and give you credit on a new set. Id pursue it furthur

    Ryan

    Also HAWGDAWG are you gonna go after that drunk driver with legal recourse???
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Well today i pulled in my driveway and noticed my engine noise has gotten louder. I popped the hood and its making a louder noise which i cant explain. I turned it off and it made a sound like air shooting out of something (kinda a hissing noise). Started it again and shut it off same noise. Well i made an appointment to take it in next friday :( Doesnt seem major but i need to get it checked. I am also gonna get the TSB updates (transmission). Dean question for you. Do i just go in and say i want this update done how do i go about it? Thanks

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What I usually do is tell them that I think I have that driveline growl and if they are familiar with the update available. The service advisor either tells me yes or no. If no, I give him the printout. If he does, I ask him if we have to test drive to verify. Cause I don't want them telling me that they couldn't verify. If the service advisor is satisfied that no test drive is required, I ask him to call Enterprise. But then again, I'm on a first name basis with everyone at the dealership anyway so they usually don't question me as I've proven them wrong too many times.

    What I recommend is that you give the service advisor the printout and tell him you have the driveline growl and would like to have the updates done. If he says that they will need to verify, ask him if you can verify with a tech BEFORE leaving the dealership. If he say no problem and that they will take care of it...then you have no problems. The driveline growl has been around for soooo long, I'm sure they all know about it.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Can you explain "driveline growl" i am still trying to get exactly what this is. Is it like a noise you hear???

    Ryan
  • hawgdawghawgdawg Member Posts: 24
    Phil, thanks for the link.

    Ryan, I got the link you sent me. I just didn't have it at work and couldn't find it. Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    you have mail

    Dean
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Thank you very much dean. I have a very good idea what im gonna say when i go in. The engine is another thing.

    I have broken it down into a few things possibly wrong

    1. Bad gas
    2. valve
    3. air leak of some sort (vacuum) dad suggested
    4. Belt bad

    I dont think its major. Ill find out late next wk

    Ryan
  • steelworkersteelworker Member Posts: 23
    ryan or dean ,in reference to my post #443, I was wondering if that ''drive line growl''would be somewhat what im experiencing with my truck,but im not sure what you mean by it exactly ,if you could read my post maybe you can explain if it relates to my problem.thank you for any input.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    forgot to mention my mpg has been going down the past 2 wks by about 2 miles per gallon. This wk it seems to also be going down. It was around 13-14 city and last wk it was 11.6 ( i believe off the top of my head). Any ideas???

    Ryan
  • steelworkersteelworker Member Posts: 23
    if anyone else could give me any ideas or commemts on post #443 .I would greatly appreciate it .thank you
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You describe that the rear end makes some kind of noise. What kind of noise? Is it grinding, clunking, need some kind of description to work with. It does this sound when accelerating from 50-60? Intermittently?

    Maybe you could try to duplicate it this way. Drive the truck until operating temperature is met. From a stop accelerate to 50 then slow to 38-40. While at 40, try depressing the gas pedal to half throttle and see if the noise returns. You could do this going up a mild slope also. The suggestion that you drive in third around the city is an indicator of the driveline growl. However, you indicated that it occurs from 50-60 and the driveline growl may be present at 50 but moreso at 38-40 mph. The driveline growl can be best described as an engine lugging. Like with a manual trans shifting from 2nd to 5th gear will incurr a loss of engine power (being in incorrect gear), engine lugging (straining) and slight vibrations. Is this what you are talking about?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You should also have the check the EGR valve.
  • steelworkersteelworker Member Posts: 23
    the noise is more like a zing type kinda like a bandsaw and more often will do it on a upslope .I have tryed deferent speeds but 50-60 seems to do it the most often .And im pretty sure its coming from the rear end area , the noise will start until the rpms move up to the 2000range than stop and the truck will accellerate smoothly . Going up hill itll start doing it as it reachs top than smooth out if I depress the gas and get it into the higher rpms (downshift)
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Those knockouts are just plastic inserts that almost fall out by themselves. (Not quite)

    I had my truck aligned at a Firestone dealer the first year. In a weak moment, I succumbed to the sales pitch for lifetime alignment. I think it was about $189..whew! Anyway, on this truck, it's not a bad idea. I've had it aligned 4-5 times already. Hasn't always needed it, but most times it needs a little adjusting.

    Back to the knockouts...If your truck is in alignment with these in, it's more likely to stay aligned than if they are removed. They help lock the adjustments in place.

    Steering pull to one side, or the other happens when the caster needs alignment. The pull will be in the direction of the wheel with the more negative caster.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    I told you needed to change your oil every 3000 miles looong ago. See!
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ...That's it!

    ....and you really should be switching to the winter air in those tires by now...

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    purple oil....
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Is that zing sound continuous or intermittent? does the pitch rise and fall with rpm's? when the trans downshifts it goes away? even at 50-60?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Quad first off. First oil change was done at 2735 mls. Next was 5000 something. Next one is scheduled a little before 9000 and im switching to mobil 1.

    Tim uh oh forgot about the winter air. Ill do that tonight when i get home

    Dean - EGR valve ive heard of it. If something is wrong with it will it make any noise?? You have any other info on this valve? Location???

    Thanks
  • hawgdawghawgdawg Member Posts: 24
    After my truck was wrecked it ripped the driveline out with the yoke of the transmission. As everyone is aware it's a substantial looking piece of metal. I guess since I've handled drivelines in old pickups (that were heavy) I thought it was going to be really heavy.

    It weighed about 5 #s. LOL.

    Ryan, as far as sueing this guy, I think it would be like getting blood out of a turnup. He was a total shitbag. The first money my insurance gets from him will go towards paying my deductable.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I hope that guy does some good jail time. Hes lucky he didnt kill anyone. When i said legal recourse i didnt mean it so much as sueing but i would have him prosecuted to the fullest. Dont get me started on drunk driving thats one thing i am totally against. And no insurance? Let me guess his license was suspended too wasnt it?

    OOOO dont let me be a judge or prosecuter

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    hehe
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    image
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    CHEERS


    image
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    imagehttp://smilecwm.tripod
  • steelworkersteelworker Member Posts: 23
    first let me thank you for responding to my post,to answer your questions ,(1)continuous at 1-1 +half rpms (2)yes at downshift it stops (3)yes after 60 with increase rpm it also stops .I can make it last longer by keeping it in lower rpms but when it starts making noise Ill speed up to stop it but last night Iplayed with the pedal to see how long it could last, as long as its in low rpms 50-60 itll zing.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    HEHE YEP ME
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ...guess who just learned HTML?

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    [img]http://smilecwm.tripod.com/legionxs/wavey.gif[/img]

    Hi Guys
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    go take a look at the truck bash topic i added a nice pic in there

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    oK ITS OUTTA MY SYSTEM sorry i apologize to everyone i wont do it anymore

    Ryan
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