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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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I've looked under the hood, inside the truck, under the truck where the spair tire goes, in the extended cab area and I can't find it.
Help! :confuse:
kcram - Pickups Host
1.. Vehicle continues to generate excessive drive train delay-slip-slap-crunch (for lack of an encompassing term) at various times while starting and driving in start and stop traffic. i.e. when accelerating from a dead start, when decelerating in a road dip and accelerating out of a road dip, when decelerating and slowing to make a turn and accelerating out of a turn. The slip and slap is also experienced at times when slowing and the vehicle downshifts. A very bad situation: Is when slowing down or rounding a turn and then accelerating out of it. Where at that certain speed when the torque from acceleration pulls out the drive train slack and the transmission shifts to the next gear simultaneously. There is a slap and thud that will make you think the wheels are falling off this vehicle.
2.Vehicle continues or has returned to generating excessive cab vibration under at least three different driving conditions. I performed three specific tests on smooth road with long inclines. First test was performed in the early morning 6:00 AM when colder and the second in the late afternoon 4:00 PM over the same road when outside temperature was 80 degree’s. Tests one and two were with a #3000 tow load. Third test was without a tow load.
a. When drive train is under torque while climbing a long road incline without a tow load. Such as the long upgrades on I-70 east of Rt 13. When reaching top of grade and decelerating or coasting the vibration diminishes.
b. When drive train is under torque while accelerating with a tow load while climbing a long road incline and also on flatter terrain.
c. When accelerating in general at slower speeds during acceleration and while generating drive train torque. However this vibration is not as aggressive as a and b.
3. Vehicle is still generating hard tire or flat spot thumping response. Thumping is excessive when tires are cool to cold and lesser when tires are warm to hot. This can be experienced when reaching the top of a long road incline during the deceleration or coasting phase as mentioned above which eliminates the drive train interference for tire ride detection. If tires are cold the tires thump harder if the tires are hot it is much lesser but still apparent. Detected during first and second test in item 2 above.
All the mail on this issue indicates dealers are just trial and error attempting to fix this problem without really knowing the true cause.
How about where is the jack in your F-150? :confuse:
Amazing this significant problem carried over from 2004 to 2005. This platform was apparently released premature and is a true engineering failure for Ford. My truck is a 2005 F-150 Lariat, 4X4, 5.4L, Limited Slip, Super Cab, 3.73 differential, column shift automatic. It has both a substantial vibration problem and substantial drive train slack problem. It also sounds like the gears in the differential do not mesh well on acceleration as there is a slip then a crunching type sound. See Message #1130 for a more complete analysis of my problems with vibration and drive train noise. I saw where someone still had vibration problem with 3.55 rear axle. I am wondering if the 3.33 differential that used to be in 4x4 and now only 4X2 is experiencing these problems as well? I know my 2002 F-150 4X4 333 gears was rock solid compared to this 2005 POS.
If you can completely rule out batteries/alternator/starter, then you may have a fuel delivery issue. This could be a dead fuel pump or injectors. (Hopefully, no one siphoned your tank dry in this day of high fuel prices.) You could also have an issue in the glow plug circuitry (short, etc.), although the engine should fire without them, just with great difficulty.
kcram - Pickups Host
I recently went on a trip in a friend's Honda Pilot for 200 miles and back. Lots of road noise, the seat cushions are short with not much leg room and the ride was nothing to brag about. I don't see why people even buy them. Give me my F250 anyday!
First, the towing question. It has a towing package installed rated at 5,000 lbs. max. I am going to be towing a 1999 Mazda 626, front wheel drive, manual transmission, from California to Iowa in a couple months. My question has to do mainly with which type of trailer I should rent. I know a tow dolly can work, but am wondering if a full-size trailer would be more stable and easier to tow for that long of a trip?
Second, the rough engine question. Like I said, I bought it two days ago. Ran great. Drove the you-know-what out of it and no signs of trouble at all. Later that evening I took it in to have the factory cassette replaced with a new CD player. Didn't drive it yesterday, Today, it starts running rough and idling rough, though not always. I read in the owner's manual that when the battery is disconnected that the computer has to "relearn" idle and fuel settings. It even has a sequnece for helping it do this, and I seriously doubt it has been done properly. Since I'm sure they disconnected the battery when they installed the CD player, and it seemed fine before that, is this most likely my problem? Or, should I be searching for something else? Thanks.
How will I know when the U joint/driveshafts need replacement? Thank you, EricB
So.............if there's no grease fitting on a 'u' joint, any 'u' joint, it's because it's sealed for life. Who's life?........the life of the joint of course. Could be ten minutes, could be ten years.
How will you know when it needs replacement? When there's any detectable movement, which will mean it's reached the end of its life.
See, I said I'd sound like a smart .............. oh well!
Sorry ericb, but it's the truth.
As soon as I parked the truck , I smelled burned friction material coming from the driver side rear . I jacked up the rear end , removed the tires both sides , removed the calipers / they came right off, nothing frozen etc , that led me to believe it had to be the parking brakes hanging.So here is what I found after removing the rear brake rotors {which wasn't easy/they should slide right off} The parking brake cam actuators were rusted together , not allowing the parking brake shoes to fully retract when the pedal is released. I removed the brake sets , cleaned and wire wheeled down the actuator assy's , lubed them up , lubed the adjusters and brake shoe mounting points {everything bone dry from the factory} and reinstalled and properly adjusted the parking brakes. It all works like it was supposed to now . This may be more than the average owner wants to tackle , Honestly I shouldn't have had to do this either , but the dealer never found this , and I am getting tired of taking the truck in everytime it shakes. I don't know if this will cure the problem , But I hope this may help someone else with similiar shake issues and maybe point Ford in the right direction !!
I am glad I found this forum. I have driven a Ford truck since my first 1975 Ford Courier and since gone through 5 F-150's. My '04 F-150 FX4 is the worst F-150 I have ever owned. At 36,000 miles it is at the dealership now for like the 7th time, two of these are to replace the Clutch Packs in the Differential. Key to this message is my truck was the 3rd F-150 in one day with this problem at my local dealer. Service tech spoke with Ford Engineer, they began having these problems since 2000 models. The material was changed so the steel was not hardened appropriately and they use a synthetic lubricant. From what I was told, they have re-designed the material now three times, I am getting a whole new package installed Next Day Aired direct from Ford Motor which is supposed to solve this problem
Many have mentioned slap and vibration. When the clutch packs go bad, and you turn from a stop the truck feels like you are in 4x4. This is a great indication you have a problem. I also noticed vibration when towing a bobcat dual axle trailer.
Other problems I have had include; the truck has self-accelerated in wet conditions (there is no mechanical throttle cable, wisdom changed it to a computer); the back seat rattels/rubs against the back window (so much for a quiet truck); it takes over a minute for the temperature control to change from floor or dash heat to defrost or vice versa (A minute into freezing rain and you are in trouble); the brake pedals switch to turn off the cruise control was broken and rattled constantly (very annoying and very hard to identify the source); Finally, what is the material of the back fender? I got a rock in the HUGE gap between the tailgate and the fender and it chipped off the material. It looks like some sort of plastic composite....definitely not steel.
This long time Ford owner is going to seriously consider another brand unless I get some good incentive from Ford to trade for another Ford truck this summer. I don't give up my loyalty easily and am a little embarrassed to do so, but I think the lead engineer for Ford's new truck went for style over substance this time around.
I'm having a problem with my Ford dealer and Ford myself. I've got a braking system that failed to stop my '02 F-150 King Ranch. I had to brake fast for an ambulance, and my truck kept on going.. and going ... and going.... I take it to an independent who tells me I need the dealership to diagnose further. The dealership says all my parts and electronics are within Ford specs. Everything was "green lighted" even after the little braking incident, but the service manager still witnessed the braking problem. Now Ford corp. says.. just replace the rotors and the pads with OEM to the tune of becoming a $685 safety experiment. I don't know what I'm gonna do about this problem yet. I've filed a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration.
Good Luck and God Speed from Florida!
Thanks,
btenvy
Thanks for listening
teedoff
The front wall of the bed has come loose in the upper left corner, and moves back and forth allowing the cover to hit the window molding. The Ford dealership has said it is because of the weight of the tonneau cover. I am out of warranty, and they won't cover anyway since the cover was aftermarket.
Any comments, or ideas how to fix this and keep it from reoccuring?
Thanks,
AL
04 Spcrw 4X2 5.4L (Lariat)
Have you solved your problem yet? What was the temperature when you had your problem trying to start your Diesel.? Would Ford Motor Company be smart enough to answer this question.?
path2.
kcram - Pickups Host
i have read a little bit about somee screen on the back side of the block that gets clogged...if anyone knows anything any help will be greatly appreciated...thank you!!!!!
I have a New 2005 F150 Lariat with less than 1000 miles & garage keep.
I recently found 7 Paint Blemishes, some as big as 7”x14" that can only be seen in certain lighting conditions.
My Ford dealership has acknowledged that there is a problem and is willing to paint the effected areas under Warranty.
Questions: Should I agree to have the work done?
Should I insist they paint the whole Truck?
Since the Dealership say this was a Factory created condition, Should I try to get Ford to replace my truck?
Has anyone had a similar problem?, How was it resolved?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in Advance, Jkw
kcram - Pickups Host
the paint problem hey if a body shop fixes the spots or how ever be happy no they will not replace the truck due to paint and will prob just fix spots or a whole body panel(repainted).
to any and all with vibration type concerns stop complaining on here, be polite and give the dealer all possible info, ford and the dealer will fix it stop crying here about lemon law .
it is no wander toyota is taking over as the biggest seller in usa .their parts fo their cars cost more than the same thing on a ford ,so go by a toyota and i'll keep driving a real truck that drives like a TRUCK with all the shakes and vibrations
peace out gbnf
Not looking forward to it,
Path2.
I don't know if it will help or not, but your may want to try and talk the Regional Manager for Ford. I don't know if he covers your region or not, but it worth a shot. You know Ford has the Secret Club where no one but happy customers get to talk with a person from Ford Motor Company. And they wonder why we need to buy Toyota, or Nissan.
Good Luck and don't post it for everyone to see. 972-334-1822.
Thanks
My 2005 F150 has never gotten more than 11 MPG !!!
The dealer says there is nothing wrong with the vehicle.
I'm furious with gas prices at $2 a gallon ($70 per fill up), I feel like I've been taken for a ride. If the actual MPG was posted on the sticker, I would have never bought the vehicle.