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Comments
Tom D
Thanks, Ed
Hope this helps.
TOm
Is this normal?
This is the trade association for the guys that separate the do it yourself car enthusiasts from their wallets (and often good taste).
Certainly isn't! Poor fuel consumption can be caused by, or contributed to, by anything from a blocked air filter to binding brakes (or a hundred things in between, including an enthusiastic right foot!).
Sounds like one or both of your batteries is shot. If remaining battery is only reading 5V it's most likely been too severely discharged and won't recover. The glow plugs take a lot of juice, which is why the PSD has two batteries. The arcing you see when you hook up the second battery is that battery trying to re-charge the first one. Unfortunately, if the second battery has been hooked up for some time now, it's probably been discharged deeply as well. It could now be shot as well.
The chattering relays that you hear when attempt to start the truck is a sign that the voltage in the system is too low to allow the relays to actuate properly. The coil in the relay tries to move the contactors, but the voltage is too low so it can't move all the way, but it keeps trying and gives you the clacking noise. Eventually the voltage falls lower and the relays don't move at all.
Big question is what killed the batteries in the first place? Is there some problem with your charging system, i.e. altenator, voltage regulator, etc.? You may want to have it checked out, or you could end up killing the new batteries too. At places like Sears, the charging system checkout is either free or discounted, if you buy the batteries there or have them do repair work.
The Haynes Manual at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. has basic wiring diagrams. But they're not always specific to your model/engine/year truck. Helm sells dealer's shop and electrical manuals (www.helminc.com). They're the best but, quite pricey! (Though they're worth it first time you save yourself a big repair bill.) Try searching E-Bay for the Helm manuals. Sometimes you can pick them up on CD-ROM for a heck of a lot cheaper.
In thinking about the problem I'm wondering if the new rigid boxed chassis coupled with the much more direct rack and pinion steering isn't the problem? No one has suggested this and it might be an idea.
The shop reported one ABS Sensor was bad, and it was sensing that one wheel was locking up, so it was releasing the brakes as it should when there is a skid.
Replacing the sensor fixed the problem.
An unrelated point of interest is that last week i lost my braking due to rusted out brake lines. one would think that the materials used for brake lines should last longer than 8 years.
Thanks for you reply.
J Allan
comes on. when the light is on the transmission run rought.
the computer shows a map sensor . I have changed the mat sensor. this did not solve problem. any suggestions.
thanks lanny
My F-150 hadn't been run for several weeks. Went out to start it, started right up. Let it run for a minute or two, then went to put into reverse and it died. Put it back into Park, turned the key. "Thunk." "Thunk." The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right. Cannot move it into Neutral or any other gear. The weather has been in the mid-20's at night and low 30's during the day, and there is moisture under the hood (and in the cab). Could there be some problem with moisture or is this purely electrical--starter, solenoid, etc.???? Anyone have this happen?
Not necessarily....accessories draw a very low current so it is normal for accessories to work and the battery be too low to crank the vehicle. Try charging the battery or jump-start vehicle and have battery load tested.
Did you ever figure out the problem? Would appreciate any
help anyone could offer.
I will check it out.
thanks
John
Did you just drain radiator or did you "power flush" the whole cooling system. Could still have crud in the engine.
Also, how's the water pump?
I have a 2000 F-150 XLT 4X4 w/ 5.4L that occasionally will not start. The engine turns over just fine. It is almost like its not getting spark or fuel. I can insert the key and turn it to the run position and hear the fuel pump prime as usual. All the idiot lights look normal too. Although, the Theft light stays on the whole time I'm trying to start it. I can't recall if this light is supposed to be on or not. (I have researched, and believe that Ford electronically prevents theft by cutting the electrical to the coil packs, not by disabling the starter; is this correct?) There are other idiot lights that stay on during cranking. The funny thing is if I wait, it will start later like it should. Any ideas?
p.s. tell your service guy not to burn his lips on the crack-pipe....
1: My battery draining in anywhere from one to 4 days between usage. At first I had the battery tested, feeling it was going bad. After it was tested I was told it was fine, but the amps registered from the alternator charging it was at about 75. Took it to the dealer who says both the the alt and battery are fine.
2: My electronics will suddenly reset themselves on startup. I set the AC in the summer at 68 with the fan at speed level 2 or 3. When I start the truck, the temp will be reset to default and the fan will be on max speed.
I suspect these two items may be from the same source, but not mechanically savvy on my own.