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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

hernandez1hernandez1 Member Posts: 1
in Dodge
My 1999 Durango started to turn off while driving. It started about 2 weeks ago and I do not know what it is. I tried moving a few cables around the main computer board (top passenger side of the engine)and all<IFRAME SRC=
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Comments

  • 98durangosxt98durangosxt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Durango SXT. The manual says the dealership has to activate the rolling door locks which locks the doors at 15 mph, but they want 75 bucks to do it! Anyone know a trick to get them to work?
  • kimatarkimatar Member Posts: 1
    Our new durango, now at 7350 miles, has stalled today for the third time. The first time it happened I was baking up our utility trailer into a parking space. The vehicle had just over 3000 miles at the time. We asked the dealer service manager about it when we had an oil change and he said it was just a "breaking in period." The second time I was slowing to go around a sharp corner. This was at about 7000 miles. The dealer took it for two days and found a "loose module" on the computer and "hoped" that it wouldn't happen again. Today I was making a U-turn and it stalled. The dealer is going to have a technician drive it for a few days and try to recreate the circumstances. Has anyone else been having this problem?
  • frankygfrankyg Member Posts: 32
    04's seemed to have this problem and I believe a service bulletin was put out for it. Check here for any recalls: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm
  • k9hilcok9hilco Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 SLT Hemi and had to have the throttle body replaced at 3000 miles. They had it for almost 2 weeks (fixed) the problem gave it back and still has the same problem. Research the lemon law and see if you qualify.
  • marlea3marlea3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 durango 4x4 w/318. A couple of years ago, I had a loud vibrating noise in the rear and it eventually got so loud that I could not hear on a phone with the truck running. At the time the dealership told me it was my tires. I later found out it was my rear end. Which they replaced.

    Ok. Now I have the exact sound but in the front and it has been getting louder and louder almost to the point that you can't hear anything else. I am assuming it is my front end. The alignment is fine, the wheels are balanced and it has new tires. I have checked fluid levels in both ends and replaced the fluid in the transfercase because it seemed to be scortched.

    According to Chilton I tested the vibration, (which starts at about 20mph and continuously gets worse with speed), it starts at 2000 on my tach. Chilton says to change gears and see if it does the same at the same rpm. This does not make any difference. According to Chilton this is supposed to mean it is in my driveshaft.

    Between my transfercase and my front end there is about an inch of play in the shaft.

    Also after driving, the passenger side of the differential was very warm compared to the other side.

    Initially presumed I would have to replace the front end. Now after reading through some threads here, I'm hoping it may not come to that.

    Any help or advice would be great, thx
    marlea3
  • dlsmithdlsmith Member Posts: 1
    Finally solved the problem.

    Like everyone else's, it only stalled during hot weather and I tried all the solutions suggested on these forums including replacing the various sensors.

    The only thing left was the PCM (Power Control Module). The dealer wanted $700 to change it out and wouldn't sell me one. Said I couldn't do it because I had no way to program it.

    After months of searching I found one at RockAuto.com and they told me it was already pre-programed and all I had to do was disconnect the battery, take out the old and plug in the new. I did and it's now been six months (including VERY hot weather) and no stalling.

    The part number at RockAuto.com is 790147. The cost is $216.79 plus a refundable $70 core charge.

    Good Luck!

    Dave
  • rosemarygrosemaryg Member Posts: 1
    Our 2005 hemi durango stalled at about 8500 miles. It happened while I was making a corner at about 15 mph. I took it to the dealer and they put a flash update in it. They were aware of the problem and said some other hemi's were doing this but there is no recall. They are not totally sure of the problem, they called it an " anomaly". It happened to me again just at about 10000 miles after they said it wouldn't happen again. The second time I was driving and going about 20 mph. My husband fears for our safety. Does anyone have advice where I can go from here? We were considering a buy back or if it is possible, I don't know. I don't feel safe in this car.
  • wuviewuvie Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Dodge Durango hit 100,000 miles and began stalling on a regular basis. Plenty of fuel, serviced regularly.

    Mechanics convinced me a new fuel pump was the problem. $390.00 and two
    hours later, it stalled again.

    Nearing a grand in labor and parts now, the computer brain was replaced only
    to have the darn thing stall yet again. Sensors, coils. gaskets, you name it, all
    checked, repaired, replaced. Still stalling.

    Shame, because the car isn't worth squat to trade or sell because so many
    people are aware of the Durango's lousy engines. Wish I had researched the
    internet before buying one. Never another Dodge for this family.

    :mad:
  • blade123blade123 Member Posts: 2
    There are LOTS of people having this problem with stalling, including myself. From reading these forums, it seems that this problem has existed in both the Durango and the Ram with Hemi since they were first produced. I have had my '05 Durango with Hemi serviced a few times for a problem that absolutely exists but can never be duplicated in the shop. In all fairness, my dealership has been great so far but it is getting to the point that they have no idea what to do with it and I don't feel safe driving it.

    As far as I know, although both the US and Canadian transportation authorities are currently investigating the issue, there haven't been any recalls or service bulletins issued in Canada or the US. The Canadian site doesn't provide much info. but the US site does. In fact, I suggest you read the letter from Chrysler to the transportation authority, it's very interesting.

    Anyway, I will bring my D back to the shop tomorrow and maybe, just maybe they'll be able to find the cause of the problem. I just hope I don't stall on the highway and get smucked by a tractor trailer on the way to the dealership.

    One last note.....it's really important that quality issues which aren't addressed by the dealership or manufacturer are reported to the proper authorities. Especially when safety is a concern. The squeaky wheel gets the oil...right?
  • rickster3rickster3 Member Posts: 1
    Have replaced o2 sensors on 2000 Durango 4.7L twice. Check engine light comes on each time after fourth (approx.) start of engine. Took to dealer who diagnosed and said that PCM needs replacing and that the o2 wire harnesses are fried and need replacing also. Cost is excessive. Anyone else heard of a similiar situation and beter remedy?
  • hockeyfan2hockeyfan2 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone experienced a problem with their overhead console temperature read-out getting stuck on the wrong external temperature? For example, according the the overhead external temp display will give you the temp. reading of 10 to 20 degrees lower than the correct external temp. It will do this intermittently, and after driving the Durango for 15-20 minutes the temp will eventually correct itself. Dodge has had the dealership replace the front control module, but as I drove it from the dealership the overhead temp. was reading 69 degrees and the true external temp. was 79 degrees!!! Dealership is scratching their heads. Dodge is clueless. Anyone else having this problem out there?????
  • kruemelkruemel Member Posts: 1
    Hey Dave,

    have you installed the new PCM at the same place without any changes. I read in a other Durango Forum that you maybe shoud give the unit more air to breath (cooling).
    Was there any changes in the preformance or is there no diffence between before and after??

    Chris
  • durangoduddurangodud Member Posts: 3
    Headlights AND parking lights go off, both while driving and parked. Tail lights DO NOT go off. Fog lights, if switched on, stay on (fortunately!!!)

    Very intermittant, dealer "cannot reproduce the problem", have had it in the shop 6-7 times since 9/28, cannot fix. Anyone know a good lawyer??.

    Anyone else hear of this??

    And yes, my outside temp display is usually wrong...
  • durangoduddurangodud Member Posts: 3
    Dealer had the Durango all day today trying to "reproduce the problem". naturally, they could not. Did the "wiggle test" on all lighting connectors, checked wiring etc. Dodge/Chrysler told them it "could' be some module that controls the headlights (DUH!!!), dealer says we can try it, but they cannot guarantee that will fix it since....they can't "reproduce the problem"....so this is a "try it and see"... to the tune of $821.00. (this is a "restricted part" whatever that is...) Of course, since it's electrical, there's no return if it doesn't solve the problem. Awfully expensive gamble. So, I'm hoping that somewhere in all the wiggles that it healed itself...I think that's my best hope at this point.....
  • dwsundwsun Member Posts: 2
    I have a new 05 Durango, with 2356 miles on it. It has stalled on me about 10 times. It happens every time I make a slow turn. Today, I almost was hit when I stalled making a right turn at a light. I lost power steering and came close to running into a truck. I am very concerned about my safety.
  • dwsundwsun Member Posts: 2
    I have a new Dodge Durango with 2356 miles on it. It has stalled about 10 times on me and is getting worse. Can you tell me, if anything, what has happen since you wrote this. I am very concerned about my family's safety.

    Thanks
  • dschlinedschline Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 dodge durango with the 4.7 engine,it has been getting terrible gas mileage all of a sudden,it has dropped to 5mpg and the check engine light is on,i can remove battery terminal and it resets itself and runs smooth and check engine light stays off for awhile then it comes back on,while light is on its smoking dark black but does stop completely when cable is removed and hooked back up to battery,i replaced one co2 sensor that was closed up,it ran good afterwards for a few days,sometimes it loads up and bucks and struggles then smoothes out,when its running rough and i let of gas it blows out rich black heavy smoke,i have coded it and it comes up as fuel delivery system and notes quite a few possibilities,i have also paid to have it on a dealership computer which just said same thing as my hand held coder,anyway i was hoping to see on the forum a listing of same problem but no luck,i am a cerified motorcycle mechanic and do most of my auto repairs but this problem is starting to add up with trouble shooting and test parts etc. any help would be surely appreciated,me and a few others next guess would be the map sensor,but these hit and misses are hurting my wallet not to mention the gas at 5 mpg and of course it looks like a diesel while running*/***please help a bewildered mopar fan,of course it was much easier to diagnose problems before big brother-washington and detroit figured we needed more complicated vehicles**
  • papa-sanpapa-san Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I have the same problem with the temp read out as well. Haven't taken it to the dealer as of yet to see what they have to say about it. Still, with 19k miles on it so far, no other complaints or issues. Try the K&D air filter, makes a big difference in fuel consumption.
  • alabaalaba Member Posts: 1
    The headlight problem sounds like the dimmer switch, which is located in with the turn signal assembly.
  • jidgejidge Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Durango/4.7L. Had check engine light come on and my mileage dropped to about 8 mpg from 10 mpg with a sluggish feeling in the gas pedal and some hesitation. Just heard back from the dealer that I need one O2 sensor and a new fuel pump assembly as the code came up "low fuel pressure." Unfortunately, they want $750 to replace the fuel pump assembly which I've opted not to do at this time. Will first check to see if the new O2 sensor helps. If not, I may have to replace the in-tank fuel pump assembly, but not at the dealer for $750.
  • ericstrattonericstratton Member Posts: 1
    A couple of days ago the ABS and Brake light on my Durago went on and have not gone off. At the same time as that my speedometer stopped registering any speed below ~40 MPH. Anything below 40 and the needle says at 0.

    Anyone heard of this?

    Thanks.
  • terri181terri181 Member Posts: 1
    Have you guys had any response to this question? I had the SAME exact thing happen to me yesterday! I turned my ignition off and it Magically worked. The dealership says they've run "every test in the book" and it appears to be working the way it should. No help at all! Any idea of what it could be? I too am concered about my safety. Thanks!
  • easy6easy6 Member Posts: 2
    I have been pretty happy with my 2004 Durango. They replaced a chip for my air conditioning not working per a service buliten, The car wouldn't start they replaced alrm module which fixed the engine not starting. One call one fix. Better then average.
    Sitting in the waiting room talking to a nice cajun lady about her Dodge Durango. She lowers her rear windows doing Fifthty or more and huge sonmic vibration in the car. Weird I did Mine same symptons. Wow. Dealer says don't row down your windows
  • moparkillermoparkiller Member Posts: 3
    I HAVE A 2001 DURANGO AND IT OVER HEATS ABOUT EVER 2 MONTHS I SEEMS TO BE LOSING ANTIFREEZE SOMEWHERE THE DEALER PUT NEW WATER PUMP RADIATOR AND HEADS ON IT AND IT STILL OVERHEAT I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE COULD TELL ME IF THEY HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS
  • sletourneausletourneau Member Posts: 1
    Recently bought a 2001 durango,it has a milky sludge in oil filler and pcv valve. It's a 4.7 liter engine. Oil pressure good, no signs of antifreeze in crankcase or oil in antifreeze. Truck runs good, wondering if its a problem to come or a fixed problem. No maintenance history on vehicle. Appreciate anyone's help. Sue
  • moparkillermoparkiller Member Posts: 3
    I HAVE A DURANGO ALSO IT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM NOW IT IS STARTING TO OVER HEAT THE DEALER DID A HEAD JOB AND WATERPUMP DID NOT SOLOVE THE PROBLEM I THINK THE GASKEST GOING AROUND THE TIMING CHAIN COVER IS STARTING TO GO BAD AND LETTING WATER INTO THE OIL IT TOOK ABOUT THREE MOUTHS FOR THE WATER TO GO DOWN IN THE RADITOR I ALSO SEE ALOT OF MILKY SLUDGE IN THE OIL FILL CAP I FOUND OUT IF YOU WANT A JUNK CAR BUY A MOPAR
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I would suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • easy6easy6 Member Posts: 2
    Milky sludge with overheating usually says bad head gasket.
    Water or moisture in oil gives you that grey milky look.
    Also the leak can cause air to aerate the water which won't cool worth a hoot.
    Lots a luck
    easy6
  • mitch10mitch10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 durango ( 4.7 ) and recently a high pitched chirping noise could be heard from the area of the fan/ water pump area. It is increasing as time goes on and also the pitch changes as the vehicle accelerates. My thoughts were fan clutch or water pump bearing. Guages indicate no problem with any system and check engine light is seen.

    ideas anyone?
  • rhansen05rhansen05 Member Posts: 1
    "A couple of days ago the ABS and Brake light on my Durango went on and have not gone off. At the same time as that my speedometer stopped registering any speed below ~40 MPH. Anything below 40 and the needle says at 0.

    Anyone heard of this?

    Thanks."

    My Durango is doing the exact same thing. Let me know if you find anything out. You also need to realize that the odometer is not working until it the speedometer begins to work at 40MPH. This fact just bit me in the [non-permissible content removed] when I went to sell the car. The dealer would not take the car because the mileage is now "technically" unknown, even though it just started happening. I am having the car looked at today. Will update.
  • shadeshade Member Posts: 1
    There is a electric water pump on the pass. front fender for rear heat that leaks on 2001 durango . I had to replace 2 times in 3 years. Newer durangos do not have this pump,or they didn't get the air out of the rear heater core
  • katandantkatandant Member Posts: 1
    my step-dad has a 2000 durango and recently has not been starting but it has power. after been out all day shopping the famliy came back home then my parents went to leave and it didn't start but it had power! he say's it only happends only after he turns it off and on all day. here's the fun part after he lets it sit awhile it starts right up! we are at a loss? any suggestions?
  • pelagichunterpelagichunter Member Posts: 1
    If I roll down the back window or windows, with both down it is barely noticable, but just one and lookout. It is like the wind surges in and creates some weird almost subwoofer type vibration that repeats a couple of times per second . It increases at highway speed it actually makes the thing bounce, the faster you go the worse it gets. Roll up the window and it is as quiet and smooth as you could ever want. It almost feels like the thing is so airtight that when a gust of wind comes in it has nowhere to go and you get this kind of a boom.
  • bsmith09bsmith09 Member Posts: 1
    My 99' Durango has had many problems. The check engine light has been on for many months and mechanics cannot seem to find what is triggering it. Secondly, when I drive either long or short distances, my temperature guage will slowly make it's way over to the 260 zone which means it has overheated and my check guages light comes on. It sometimes makes it's way back towards the middle but then suddenly drops again to 260. Does anyone know what the problem would be?
  • rebekah2rebekah2 Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the brake lights on my 2002 durango, but there are no screws holding it in place - do I just pull them off? :blush:
  • jimqjimq Member Posts: 14
    The 98-2003 Durangos use the same tail light assrmbly as the 96-2000 chrysler mini vans. From what I can remember from my 96 T&C you have to open the hatch to access them. They are located on side of the gasket material. They may or may not have plastic caps covering them. After the screws are removed then you can pull out the tail light.
  • caddyrogercaddyroger Member Posts: 1
    My daughter durango turn signals does not work. Trying to locate the problem.
    Does any one know the wiring colors of the turn signal switch and where the flasher unit if used is located at .
  • bulldogzbulldogz Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am the ownere of an 01 dodge durango and am also having problems with it stalling. Chrysler and the dearlership cannot find the problem or so they say. Where would I find the letter from Chrysler to the transportation authority? Thanks,Tessa
  • reytechreytech Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Durango that did the same thing. It was a $40.00 part with $250.00 labor. It's called an antifreeze/coolant sensor in the engine. Once replaced, the car has been normal since.
  • lee41lee41 Member Posts: 1
    2 days ago(on the coldest day yet)my heater fan was blowing at max,working great,turned off engine to run in the house but when i turned engine back on,the heater fan wasn't blowing.I checked all fuses related to front heater but nothing seemed to work.any ideas? my warranty ended in nov
  • micahael_tovermicahael_tover Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I have a 5.9 l 2000 Dodge Durango SLT. Recently my truck has been overheating so I came here to troubleshoot unfortunately I cannot find any previous topics on my problem so here it goes.
    The problem I'm having is that my truck overheats when I'm driving at low speeds. My heater doesn't work very well on in town driving and when I'm stopped it doesn't work at all. The only way to cool my truck down is to stop and put it into neutral and rev the engine at about 2000 rpm's. When I do that my heater works and my engine cools. The truck stays cool when I'm on the freeway and the heater blows very hot. So it is really making this a head scratcher. I'm stuck it has me thinking water pump, electric radiator fan, radiator fan relay, or possibly a partially stuck thermostat?
    Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • denimodenimo Member Posts: 4
    I bought my 04 Hemi D new and generally think its a good vehicle. One concern I have is that the gearing is "wrong"for our BC Canada posted limits. I drive 100 in the 90k zones 110 in the 100's and 120-130 in the (rare) 110 zones. Only at around the 130k mark does the truck feel smooth and give best economy. At lower speeds/rpm's i'm kicking it down to (3rd?)and then it runs like a train or letting it lug,which the Hemi doesn't like. It has a K&N filter and I plan to fit a Magnaflow catback in the Spring and headers later in the year.
    A friend told me if I have lower final drive crown and pinions fitted I would get an easier drive and better economy. The dealer has quoted $4000 for this to be done.

    Any thoughts on this?

    Denimo

    PS Does any one know if a one/eighteen scale model of the D is available?
  • pas379pas379 Member Posts: 3
    Have the same problem with my 99 Durango with 80K.Every mrchanic tells me it needs a tune up. After many tune up I just brought it to a dealer. They tuned it up again. Plug #7 always seems to be fouled. Had several compression checks done and all ok. Came back from the dealer also with no heat. Now the dealer replaced the thermostatand backed flushed the heater core. Did get a little more heat. Now they want to replace the heater core. It's been 500 miles since their tuneup and the check engine light has come on again and will bring it back this week
  • shelbillyshelbilly Member Posts: 1
    Our 2000 durango just started doing this today. We can't keep ours running, though, unless you constantly have your foot on the gas pedal to RPM's up. Otherwise, they just go down to nothing. Any luck yet in figuring it out?
  • benny9benny9 Member Posts: 2
    You probably have a speed sensor bad. It is located
    directly centered on top of diff housing. No problem
    to change, had the same problem, i think it only took
    about

    15 mins. to change. Best i remember about 35.00
    dollars give or take.

    ben
  • benny9benny9 Member Posts: 2
    I think that 2000 model Durango has a mass (mass air flow
    sensor)in the air cleaner inlet side of air inlet system.
    Sure would give it a good looking at.As you probabely know it measures amount of air intering intake weight of air
    rate of air desisity of air among other things and replaces
    the map sensor used on earlyer models. hope this will help.
    ben
  • 434445434445 Member Posts: 1
    The A/C blows out of the rear unit and the front unit. It only blows cold out of the rear unit and warm out of the front. What do you like the problem would be?
  • shepard007shepard007 Member Posts: 2
    I have recently purchased a 05 Dodge Durango Limited, w/ 5.7 L Hemi, and 14K miles. Beautiful vehicle, except one thing, it STALLS. It has done it to me 5 times on the way home from filling it up with gas, and namely between 10-20 mph.

    If my wife were to have been driving this on the highway it would be of a real SAFETY concern.

    There is definitely a problem with this vehicle and Chrysler is not owning up to it and is stating they believe the failure rate is low. I would suggest to this forum that we are but a small percentage of folks who have the wherewithal to actually write in to an online forum to describe the problem. Statistics would then show that with as much discussion as we are having about this, that the problem is MUCH larger, with many more folks experiencing this, but just not writing in to tell us about the &#147;anomaly&#148;.

    In fact I point you to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration&#146;s ongoing investigation EA05-018, which can be found at NHTSA DEFECT SEARCH. Once on the page, use the case number EA05018 to search. Review for yourself, and you will find that there is an estimated 420,000 people who are experiencing this problem, with 17,328 complaints filed as of 11/02/05 regarding the same problem.

    A summary of the EA05018 NHTSA report:
    ON MAY 16, 2005, ODI OPENED PRELIMINARY EVALUATION PE05-027 TO INVESTIGATE COMPLAINTS OF ENGINE STALLING IN MODEL YEAR 2004-05 DODGE DURANGO SUVS AND RAM 1500 SERIES PICKUPS EQUIPPED WITH THE 5.7L V8 ENGINE. INFORMATION PROVIDED BY DAIMLERCHRYSLER DURING PE05-027 INDICATED THAT A LARGE PERCENTAGE OF THE COMPLAINTS ARE RELATED TO AN IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION THAT MAY CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL DURING TURNING MANEUVERS. IN FEBRUARY 2005, DAIMLERCHRYSLER REVISED THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE SOFTWARE IN PRODUCTION VEHICLES AND ISSUED A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN (TSB 18-013-05) RELEASING THE NEW SOFTWARE AS A SERVICE REMEDY FOR THE IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION. THE BULLETIN WAS SUPERCEDED BY TSB 18-013-05A IN APRIL 2005. DAIMLERCHRYSLER BELIEVES THAT THE FAILURE RATE FOR STALLING WHILE DRIVING DUE TO THE IDLE UNDERSHOOT CONDITION IS LOW AND THAT THE BULLETIN HAS ADEQUATELY ADDRESSED THE PROBLEM. SINCE PE05-027 WAS OPENED, ODI HAS CONTINUED TO RECEIVE COMPLAINTS FROM OWNERS OF THE SUBJECT VEHICLES WHO ALLEGE EXPERIENCING ENGINE STALL INCIDENTS UNDER ALL TYPES OF DRIVING CONDITIONS. IN SOME INSTANCES THE STALLING HAS CONTINUED AFTER THE VEHICLE RECEIVED THE SERVICE BULLETIN REPAIRS. THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN UPGRADED TO AN ENGINEERING ANALYSIS (EA05-018) TO FURTHER ASSESS THE SCOPE, FREQUENCY, AND SAFETY CONSEQUENCES OF THE ALLEGED DEFECT IN DODGE DURANGO AND RAM 1500/2500/3500 SERIES PICKUP TRUCKS.
  • mtonemtone Member Posts: 1
    Engine light went on and truck would not start. Gas cap was not properly closed (it had been loose for a couple of days). Once we "fixed" that problem, it took a few minutes and the truck re-started. Although the truck now starts without any hesitation, engine light remains on(I've been told that the the cap being loose may be the culprit and that it set off a sensor)...any ideas?
    thxs.
  • sthompson3sthompson3 Member Posts: 1
    Exactly the same, replaced o2 sensors, then informed PCM module needed replacing, but found out this was not the problem, dealer talked with Dodge tech support & now they tell me the wiring harness needs replacing. Due to the power steering sensor leeking oil on the harness. I can not believe oil on a covered wire would create a short. Repair est. 1900.00, I will seek other means of repair.
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