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Comments
I had another question that I hope someone on the board could answer: how difficult is removing the SnugTop shells that you can buy as an option for the DC? I can see instances where I would want a shell on the back of my soon-to-be purchased DC and times would I would want to take it off. Looking at the SnugTop shell on the back of a DC at my local dealership, it looked like it is only attached by a few clamps inside on the rail and taking off-and-on wouldn't be too much of a problem. However, I would hate to pay $1,500 for a shell and find out that it's a real pain in the butt to take it off and put it back on. Furthermore, I don't know if there are any special storage requirements that need to be considered for a shell once it's removed or if there is risk of damaging the shell by removing and re-installing it, repeatedly. Lastly, is taking a shell off the back of a truck a one man job? Or am I going to have to bribe a few friends to help with the procedure? Thanks.
I live in Philadelphia area and got a price quote on a 01 Tacoma Doublecab 4x4. Dealer was upfront and showed all invoice pricing. I was a little shocked at the $1,000 dealer profit they tried to tack on and the lowball trade offer they made me. If you don't have a trade in, I'm sure that you can negotiate the profit margin. (the dealer called me back and offered to lower it to $500 if I took one of the four trucks on the lot) The $500.00 was right around 2% profit over the invoice.
I ended up delaying buying due to other financial considerations. The dealers still play games, just not as bad as if you walked in off of the street.
Good luck with your purchase,
Dan
Do you belong to a credit union? If not, stop by a local credit union, see if they have such a buying service and join. All you should need to do is open a small savings account.
Got response from a dealer thru autobytel. They have a 2002 doublecab 4x4 on order, exactly what I'm looking for (even the color). It's scheduled to be built 9-17-01. Said they'd sell it at invoice plus $1000, total = $26,510). I thought that was high but it's hard to find them in the St. Louis area. I'm getting wore down from looking with no good results.
I'm going to look into the credit union situation before I pull the trigger. Thx. Jeff.
I was also advised by my Toyota dealer that Leer has a canopy for the D cab that is priced around $1 grand. I had the spray in liner put in at $320 over the rail. Each dealer will use which ever spray in co. is nearest to their dealership. In my case it was Arma and they did an awesome and flawless job.
I know I really need to go drive one...but it seems I can't get to a dealership to drive one at the moment. (maybe someday soon hubby will find time to be home so I can go test drive some)
Right now I drive a Dodge Durango and it is comfortable but I'm having too many problems with it. The Tacoma is one on my list that I really like but I will have to have a 4X4, cuz we go to the beach fishing alot..and I've got to get down the beach in it w/out getting stuck.
How does it drive? Is it comfortable? Had you had many problems with it? How's the resale/trade in on them?
I spend a lot of time on the road and most of the time its with my kids in the car...so I'd like for it to be safe...
Could someone please give me some info about this truck....I really don't know a lot about it...and can't seem to get any help around here! LOL
Ok, I have only test drove a Tacoma twice so my opinion is not that valid, but I know this "Reliablity and Resale" are usually quite high with most Toyotas. The gas mileage for the Tacoma is 17 mpg and about 13 mpg with the Durango. If you don't have the August '01 issue of CR then check your local library which should have it. The CR website requires membership fees so this is not a quick ref.
Thanks.
dcabman1 - I remember seeing someone say the snugtop was an easy one man removal job. Maybe check previous messages in this forum. Let me know what you find out cause I'm thinking of getting one too but may not want it on all the time. If one gets a cap must a bed liner (spray or drop in) be of the under the rail type?
The bed is 61.5" according to the sale brochure and the bed has slots for 2 X 4's like alot of trucks mfg'd these days. All DC's are automatics as far as I know and ECT is available along with the usual Toyota OD button on the automatic shifter lever. The rear seat folds down and has tie hooks behind them for securing things if need be.
If you drive a Toyota now and like it then GO test drive the DC. It is a really practical, do it all truck.
BTW I don't suppose that they have moved the alternator away from the oil orifice in the 3.4?
Regarding the shell, his has 4 C-type clamps on each side and 2 or 3 on the end next to the cab. They have a "double-nut" to keep from coming loose from the bed. It took both of us to remove the cap -- mostly because it was awkward more so than weight. He likes to remove it at least once a year and put vaseline on some sort of lubricant on the gasket between the cap and the bed. He had previously installed some type of double-sided insulation tape (real bad idea!!) and wanted to remove it. We use a wire brush to remove most of it (speaks well for the over the rail spray-in liner), but we had to be really careful not to scratch the paint. The main thing to remember when re-installing the cap it to make sure the gasket remains straight and even. It is easy to mess it up when sliding the cap around. I basically stood in the bed, bent over and put the cap on my shoulders/back while my son walked around and made sure the gasket on the bottom of the cap was in place evenly. The cap is easy to raise this way because it really isn't very heavy. You also have to remember to tighten the c-clamps in opposite order (i.e., left rear then right front corners) to make sure it doesn't rack(??). I guess the fiberglass can warp if not tightened properly -- sort of like torqueing down head bolts.
Sorry for the long post, but just wanted to give you a little first-hand info.
I ordered a 2002 D-cab limited (impulse red). I'm looking for a bed cap, but the prices are very high. Was wanting to know of any cap mftrs that allow you to buy direct and skip the middle-man markup?
Thx.
Jeff B.
I had another question: do you know much about Tacoma's daytime running lights? I'm curious as to whether they can ever be turned off for brief periods of time. In the Fall, I go duck hunting very early in the morning and the land owner that lets me pass through this property has a house on the corner of the road I drive down on the way to my spot. I always turn my lights off when I drive by his house so he's not spotlighted and wakened up so early in the day. Therefore, I'd like to have the capabilities of quickly and temporarily turning the DRL off and I can't find anyone who knows whether this is possible.
Thanks.
thhitches- ECT is available on the DC automatic.
txdoublecab - your problem with the leaks in your back doors, especially on an incline are familiar and is generaly due to bad rubber seals. You'll have to take it to the dealer to have them replaced and its' a good idea to see if you can see the exact spot that the water comes in. For more information see the message board called "Toyota Tacoma problems."
Note: You'll need some garage space both above and on the ground.
The proceedure for removing the cap calls for a pulley or hoist to be installed in the roof of your garage, (2) 2X6's that are wider than the bed of the truck (preferrably about 6 inches wider on each side), and 4 bolt type (not screw type) Eye hooks. One steel ring
You start by drilling a hole in each of the ends of the 2X6's to accommodate the Eye hooks. Bolt the Eye hooks into the end of each 2X6.
The hoist or pulley should be installed in the top of your garage. Back the truck into the garage. Unfasten the cap. slip one of the 2X6's under the cap near the cab across the bed of the truck and slip the other under the back of the cap across the bed near the tail gate.
With some good nylon straps (or strong nylon rope) connected to the central ring (or rope loop) raise your cap off the truck using the pulley/hoist. Great for taking your cab off frequently or for long periods of storage (i.e, you just leave it hanging in the garage).
Also one tip I've picked up always install the seal on the bottom edge of the cap and never on the top of the rails. Hindsight is 20/20 I know but good information for folks who are contemplating this.
John
The steel wheels are also coated for easy cleanup and rust prevention.
If you are planning in the future to replace your wheels with custom wheels, get the steel wheels. If you want the look of factory finish aluminum get the alums...they will cost you less that aftermarket custom alums.
John
One trick that may work is to set the parking brake and turn off the engine. When you start the engine with the parking brake engaged, the DRL's don't come on.
You may be able to release the parking brake enough to drive but still have it engaged enough to keep the DRL's off. This would be a pain if you need to do it alot.
There is a service bulletin for disabling the DRL's on older models. It requires cutting a wire in the ECU (under the steering wheel) I am not sure if this is the same procedure on the 2001's. If it does work, then I don't see why a toggle switch couldn't be wired in to activate/deactivate the DRL's.
The steel rims will rust, and you will scratch them. If you pull up too close to a curb when parking, you'll scratch the edge. That's all it takes.
The aluminum rims are very easy to clean, and they'll look great for the life of your truck.
...And this advice is coming from a guy who spent $300 to replace one rim on his wife's Saab after she hit a pothole. They're still worth it.
briancorr - What happens if you lightly apply the parking break while the truck is already running? Do the DRL stay on? Thanks.
Lastly, has anyone seen on the internet a Web site that has the 2002 options listed with the dealer pricing? juane, on this board, said that the Toyota site should be updated soon, but I'm interested in learning the pricing in addition to what the options are. Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book both haven't updated their sites with the 2002 data yet.
I would love to get a wiring diagram but the stinking toyota manual is like $300.
Try toyotaguys.com. They should have bedmats as well as other accessories.
Ben
But Nissan has raised the bar again. You can now get an '02 Crew Cab (4 door) Frontier with a regular sized bed (6 feet).
If only they would get rid of that ridiculous grille and fender treatment. What a load of bunk.
John
Have you guys see the clips of this on TV? the new Taliban Urban Assault Vehicle, the TacoDC. back in the 80's was the VW mini-bus. Why Red?
KBB.com will tell you how much your truck cost.
Costco will give you your fleet discount. if you have costco. maybe AAA.
I have the 4X4 trd, and i paid a just little more than your 4x2.
good luck.
Here is the test, but don't sue me or anyone if you screwed up and hurt yourself, someone or things (legal crap).
Find a long strip, no cars or people around. Accelerate to 30 or forty and hit the brakes, not too hard, but harder than normal conditions, when the speedo drops between 15-10 mph, hit the gas. mine will hesitate when gas if pressed. This is the characteristics.
The 4x2 will take off like a bat out of hell. We did a test this morning.
Toyota FACTORY also tells their Factory Mechs to let us owners know... if we are gunning our vehicles from a full stop thru intersections, the truck may have this stall issue, so drive carefully and not like the minivan-suv crowd.
Regarding the oil pan and oil changes the washer has to be pried off, or knocked off with a chisel. this is also a Taco issue.